Crete & Pelops

[Matt T]

Our last full day at Mystras so we explore some local sites.

Site MT26
First we take a short drive on the Sparti to Kalamata road up the Langada pass. Stopping at the roadside we scramble down a steep bank and cross the dry river bed. The north-facing slope/cliff opposite us is cool and moist. Scattered throughout are G.reginae-olgae (79) mixed in with C.hederifolium, here with good leaf forms. This site is more typical of Gr-o, being Planatus orientalis woodland in a river/stream valley (80) and is another "classic snowdrop site".

Having always planted my snowdrops deep, we were surprised to find a number of bulbs lying on the surface. Initially fearing illicit collecting, it was apparent that heavy rains had washed them out of the soil, but despite this they cannot have been growing especially deeply. We replanted those that we found lying on the surface, although many were still pushing up flower shoots and sending down roots regardless.

A short way further up the road and we stopped to find more Gr-o (81) in identical habitat, with the exception that this site was easier to access via a track rather than a steep, rocky scramble.

[Matt T]

Site MT27
After lunch on our balcony we visited the neighbouring Parori gorge, easily accessed from the centre of Parori village. Here we coincided for the only time with one of the organised tours visiting the area. The gorge scenery is stunning and it contains a better range of habitats and plants than the Neokari gorge we visited previously. Quite quickly we were finding A.vulgare and C.versicolor (83). Higher up in sunnier areas there were C.graecum, C.boryi, the spent seed head of a Muscari sp. and the best clumps of A.callimischon I had seen (83). The path over a "precipitous" drop gave great access to some chasmophyte species and excellent views up and down the gorge (84). On the way back down I detoured to one of the many chapels scattered in the area. This one is housed in a cave (85)!

[Matt T]

And at last, sad to be leaving with so much still to be discovered, we say farewell to our hosts and hit the road. But, I just can't resist stopping once more on the way back to Athens...

Site MT28
Back on the Sparti - Tripolis road, we round a bend and are confronted with a yellow bank, one of the best swathes of Sternbergia we have seen (86 & 87). Hoping out for a few photos we find they are are on both sides of the road, covering the sunny, south facing slopes. Is is S.sicula? Is it S.lutea? In truth does it really matter? A fitting farewell to our memorable time in the Peloponnese.

And so our trip is almost at an end. We return the car and head back into the centre of Athens for our final night. Of course, any trip to Greece is not complete without a visit to the Acropolis (88), but I'm left wondering if the Parthenon is now in danger of being over restored? And we managed to spot some bulbs too, with Sternbergia growing under Agave and on the side of the Acropolis rock. We also treated ourselves to what turned out to be the best meal we ate out. It was a bit tricky to find, but Cafe Avissinia (Kinetou 7, in the Monastiraki flea market area) serves excellent food, service was attentive and not rushed, there is a wonderful ambiance and excellent views from the upstairs dining room - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.

It's been a joy to relive our trip through sharing these photos with you. There are so many pics I haven't included and species I've forgotten to mention or not yet confirmed IDs, but I'm sure you've all seen more than enough by now! If I can give one piece of advice, I'd say not to be afraid of organising your own, self-guided tour of bulb sites in Greece. There is so much information out there on the internet, in books, journals and this Forum of course that it is quite easy to get some tips on where to go and then you're off. Thanks to those of you who provided tips, advice and suggestions for places to visit, your help was invaluable. Flights are available quite cheaply, as is accommodation in low season so it doesn't need to break the bank. And don't be afraid to stop anywhere that looks likely, you soon get your eye in for the likely habitats and before you know it your wandering off and finding all sorts of treasures. We were only stopped once by the police who wanted to know what we were doing, but they just rolled their eyes and drove on when I told them we're photographing the flowers.

[Matt T]

You've brightened up a miserable day here Matt, many thanks. Wondered if I might pop down to B&Q to see if I could get a bag of Tarmac

Thanks, David. Having seen some of the down right inhospitable places in which these plants were growing in the wild I can only conclude that our missing elements are sunshine, sunshine and more sunshine 

[Lori S.]

Thanks for posting that very enjoyable travelogue!  Such wonderful plants!

[krisderaeymaeker]

Thanks Matt ! Really enjoy it !

[Maggi Young]

In post 44 ( the last on the previous page)  - is image 74 of Heliotropium curassavicum ?

Matt,  I have enjoyed every step of this trip with you and Patrick. What an absolute pleasure it is to experience a virtual holiday- perfect for these dull days and especially so for someone who hates  to be away from home! I swear I even "felt" the sun warming my bones as I "hiked" these flowery paths with you - wonderful!!

[Matt T]

In post 44 ( the last on the previous page)  - is image 74 of Heliotropium curassavicum ?

Matt,  I have enjoyed every step of this trip with you and Patrick. What an absolute pleasure it is to experience a virtual holiday- perfect for these dull days and especially so for someone who hates  to be away from home! I swear I even "felt" the sun warming my bones as I "hiked" these flowery paths with you - wonderful!!

Thanks, Maggi. I really has been a joy to go through the pics and share our trip. I only wish I could have "hiked" the paths too, instead of actually being physically dragged (and I mean dragged) up a mountain. I'm glad you liked it, which makes the rigours of real life hiking worthwhile.

Re. the mystery plant, the Heliotropium has remarkably similar flowers, but the foliage is different - hairy, shorter, broader and more pointed tips. I've attached a couple more pic that may help. I'm flummoxed and thought someone may have some ideas.

[Matt T]

Found it! Heliotropium europaeum. Thanks for your pointer, Maggi! 

[ruben]

Very good and instructive report Matt! I really enjoyed it!

[Gerdk]

Enjoyed your wonderful report so much. Thank you Ruben!

Gerd

[johnw]

A wonderful travel log Matt, thoroughly enjoyed.

Friend is back from Greece  - Pelops & Crete - today.  If she photographed anything astounding I'll post them.

Again thanks.

johnw

[fermi de Sousa]

Thanks, Matt,
an enjoyable scramble around the countryside!
Glad that you saw so many wildflowers and could post them here for us to enjoy,
cheers
fermi

[ian mcenery]

Excellent report Matt.  I can see that you had a successful trip. The Peloponnese is a definite possible for me next year

Thanks for sharing

[Uli Lessnow]

Thanks  Matt,  for the nice and interesting report. What about the same places in April?
That is the time I intend to visit the Peleponnes next year.
Uli