Crete & Pelops

[Matt T]

We found the Sternbergia site without too much trouble, once we realised that the plants were right at the top of the rock/cliff face. A thorny scrabble through the kermes oak and we were soon enjoying views of the plants in their eyrie (21). I wouldn't like to pretend that I know this genus very well, but would guess that these most closely fit what might be called Sternbergia lutea? As the holiday went on and we saw more of these plants and their variation it became very hard to determine what they all were. The plants were concentrated on the open, sunny top of a rocky cliff face (22) and the surrounding area behind was grazed, although a few plants persisted regardless (23). I love the way that plants in this genus seems to push their way out of the most rocky places (24).

[Matt T]

The rest of the Sternbergia day was spent enjoying the scenery on a long mountain drive. We were rewarded with great views of vultures on several occasions/locations (25) and the mountains were spectacular (26).

For the last couple of nights in Crete we relocated to Loutro on the south coast, accessible only by boat or on foot. Dependent now on public transport we ended up having just one full day to explore the area, but made the most of it by undertaking a long and extremely wet hike (with thunder and lightening too) up the hill to Anopolis, across to Aradena, through the gorge and back to Loutro via the coast. Despite the challenging conditions (the waterproof camera came out a few times instead of my usual camera) we found some interesting plants.

On the way up the hill I found a couple of flowers of Biarum davisii subsp. davisii growing on the mule track itself (27) and at the top of the hill (when the rain was at its worst, hence the very poor photo) a colony of Colchicum, which I think is probably C. pusillum (28).

The rain gradually eased off as we made our way through the valley across to Aradena and the gorge itself (29).

[Matt T]

Just a few steps down the kalderimi/mule track and we were finding more interesting specimens. A few flowers of a plant that I think could be Sternbergia greuteriana (30)? Then a couple of flowers that seem to me to clearly be Sternbergia colchiciflora (31). Another Biarum davisii soon followed (32), this time with a paler flower so easier to spot. Another confusing Sternbergia, possibly S. greuteriana again (33)? Much further down the gorge we found plants of the S. sicula type growing in a narrow crevice (34).

[Matt T]

At the bottom of the gorge we found a patch of more organic soil with some Arisaema vulgaris in flower (35) and clearly enjoying the wet weather. The gorge really starts to open out and you can appreciate the scale of this landscape feature (36). Throughout the walls are covered with various plants, many new and unidentifiable to me - this one (Verbascum arcturus) stood out as being especially attractive with 'felty' toothed leaves and a panicle of shiny seed pods (37). And the prize for 'bulb in smallest crevice' goes to.....Drimia maritima (38)!

[Matt T]

And so we finally found the sea again and wander back to Loutro on the relatively easy coastal path. En route we found some of our horned grazing friends, one of which was enjoying a snooze on top of a car (39). Thankfully this was not our hire car as there was a large, goat-shaped dent in the roof!

The sun shone for our last day and we had a special view of parts of our route that had been obscured by mist and rain the day before (40). Saying goodbye to Loutro we headed back to Hania, then the overnight ferry back Pireaus and Athens where our Peloponnese adventure would begin...of which more later...

[David Nicholson]

Thoroughly enjoyed that Matt and can't wait for part two, many thanks for posting. The Cyclamen graecum peeping out of a hole in a solid rock really did for me after all the TLC I give mine and they just won't flower.

[krisderaeymaeker]

Great to see your pictures Matt ! Thanks for sharing them .
I was several times in Crete but was never be lucky to see Biarum davisii in flower. I think we have been to early or been to late for that one.   

[Gerdk]

Thank you for these pics! After a visit in the same region (with a little bit less rain) only recently I realize that there is
much more to detect in the area - especially concerning the Sternbergias.

Gerd

[Matt T]

Thanks all for your kind comments. It's nice to share our observations with others who have an interest.

The Cyclamen graecum peeping out of a hole in a solid rock really did for me after all the TLC I give mine and they just won't flower.

Likewise, David. Every new 'miffy' plant in a tiny hole that we found blooming its heart out made me despair of some of my plants that refuse to thrive despite my TLC. Tough love may be the order of the day from now on!

I was several times in Crete but was never be lucky to see Biarum davisii in flower. I think we have been to early or been to late for that one.   

No matter when you visit, there is always plenty that you will miss. I'm looking forward to frequent return visits at different times of year. Interestingly, I met some folk in the Pelops who had also been on Crete the week before, so there at the same time as us and they did find some Crocus. In terms of the Biarum, the rain actually helped to find it as I was head down trudging along the path rather than enjoying the scenery!

After a visit in the same region (with a little bit less rain) only recently I realise that there is
much more to detect in the area - especially concerning the Sternbergias.

I'm always surprised by how much of interest we find on these trips. You go somewhere with an idea of what you want to/might see, perhaps based on known sites with specialities or good swathes of a species, but there are so many other plants (and animals) that make a visit rewarding. The Sternbergia were all a joy to find but so confusing in many cases - almost impossible to pin down to an ID with any certainty.

[Matt T]

On reaching Pireaus we headed across town, picking up breakfast in Athens before collecting our hire car. We used Avis because we could book online and the price was reasonable, £95 for a full week, all inclusive with no hidden extra costs. I'd booked the smallest, class A vehicle as I always do and true to form we received a free upgrade to a Renault Clio, which served us well. We were back on the highway! Patrick expressed surprise at the number of time we had to stop to pay tolls on our journey, but I think the quality of the roads and the ease of our journey meant the €12 or so was money well spent.

Note 1: We managed to visit a lot of sites during our week in the Pelops, 28 in total. In my notes I've numbered these sequentially MT01, MT02 etc. and will also use these here to keep track of where we are on our journey.

Note 2: Some of these sites are well known/published but some we found ourselves. If anyone would like specific descriptions for any site please get in touch with me by PM/email.

Note 3: We came across numerous spellings  for place names (in both Greek as well as English translations). Here I will use spellings as given on Google Maps so that everyone can find the general areas mentioned.

Some general/recurring impressions from our explorations include:
 - the tiny rock crevices bulbs will grow in
 - the shallow depth many bulbs grow at (often on/above the surface)
 - the shadiness of some sites that Crocus grow in
 - that the plants we grow in cultivation often show a very limited range of the variation seen in wild plants
 - the wonderful variation in Cyclamen leaf forms
 - Drimia maritima, Scilla autumnalis, Cyclamen graecum and Allium callimischon grow almost everywhere
 - Sternbergia are very confusing
 - Crocus boryi / laevigatus are confusing, but not impossible
 - organising your own, self-guided trip to see autumn bulbs in the wild is easily done

And so, to the Peloponnese...

[Matt T]

We were heading for Sparti, and after leaving the highway at Tripolis were soon making stops to look at bulbs. I'd suggest that one could stop by the roadside anywhere between Tripolis and Sparti and, if not on the roadside verge itself you'd find bulbs within just a few yards.

Site MT01
Our first sites were just before and within Manthirea, where we found plenty of Crocus hadriaticus (photo 01), some with very large flowers. We also found a few flowers of C. biflorus melantherus (02). I know others have looked for this plant here before, some finding it and others not showing that timing is key. These were all growing on grassy slopes close to the roadside as well as roadside verges throughout the village.

Site MT02
Just beyond Manthirea we found a site, again close to the road with many Sternbergia (sicula?) (03) and a few C. hadriaticus. It's interesting to see the variation in the flower form of the Sternbergia (04 & 05).

[Matt T]

Site MT03
Further south we found more C.hadriaticus and a larger number of C.b.melantherus (06 & 07). There were also a good number of Cyclamen hederifolium under Quercus coccifera scrub.

Site MT04
Another roadside stop and we were looking for C.cancellatus, which we found in good numbers, including some nice blue'ish tinged/veined specimens. 
(cont'd)

[Matt T]

Site MT04 (cont'd)
We were also looking for C.boryi here, but did not find it although the now ubiquitous C.hadriaticus was present along with some good Cyclamen graecum with deep coloured flowers and nice leaves with very strongly 'beaded' margins (11).

Site MT05
A large plant of C.hederifolium right by the roadside alerted us to our next site. Exploring the scrub we found more, smaller plants flowering under Quercus again. C.hadriaticus was here also and we managed to find 3 spikes (mostly over now) of Spiranthes spiralis (12).

Site MT06
The last, unplanned site for today caused me to perform an emergency stop, with a good 'lawn' of C. hadriaticus and our first plants of Crocus boryi close to the roadside (13).

Finally, on to our accommodation. We had decided to stay in Mystras, just outside Sparti for the full week. We had a small apartment with kitchenette at 'Mystras Castle Town', which allowed us to make our own breakfast and occasional evening meals. Our hosts were very hospitable and I'd recommend this accommodation to anyone looking to stay in this area. The view from our balcony where we ate breakfast every day was pretty good too (14).

Mystras is itself a good site for bulbs and there are a number of other sites in the area. Other parts of the Pelops are a bit of a drive away, but we were keen to be in/near the mountains as we were also planning to do some hiking. In hindsight our decision to stay here was a good one for our interests, but if you are interested in spending more time on bulbs further south (i.e. Mani or Monemvasia) I'd suggest you take a room for a night or two in those areas to reduce your driving.

[Matt T]

The next day was set aside to explore the site of Mystras Castle itself and the surrounding area. The site is an easy walk from Nea Mystras village.

Site MT07
En route we were distracted by a pine-wooded slope. Under the trees was a good population of C.graecum with an excellent range of flower colour (palest to deepest pink/magenta) and a bewildering range of leaf forms (15 &16). And of course, plants seeming to grow in bare rock (17). Further up the slope we found a footpath leading to a chapel high on a rockface above Nea Mystras, with C.boryi and more C.graecum growing on the path.

Site MT08
Back on the road and a few paces further on we spy a patch of Sternbergia (sp.? S.sicula?) on the olive terraces (18).

[Matt T]

Site MT09
The Mystras World Heritage Site was fascinating, and as I'm interested in archaeology and architecture, I spent a long time exploring the ruins and restored buildings but probably exceeded Patrick's threshold ("rubble and mortar") (19).

The site is well known for hosting a range of plants of interest. In the lower town we found Allium callimischon (20), Sternbergia (sicula?) (21) and further up (by the upper entrance) some C.hederifolium (22).
(cont'd)