G'day Leon -- To answer your questions require a a bit of a long winded reply in order to entice you into giving it a try.
Yes, I've grown tuberous begonias from seed before, however this was about 16 years ago when I had a property in the Dandenong Ranges in Victoria , Australia.
Infertile or not? Well as the modern hybrids are derived from several of the smaller South American tuberous begonia species, you will encounter some fertilization problems, as those species have different chromosome numbers.I don't have any records of the chromosome count on any of the modern hybrids, but just make your considered crosses and you should get some seed.This past season, I made 12 crosses, pods looked good with seed, but only 5 lots germinated.My most hopeful cross is Saturn (F) x Midas (M), but as with all breeding, they may turn out duds.
Last year I used mainly English cultivars from Blackmore and Langdon and this year I have added another 18 cultivars, some of which are the finest that Ralph Willsmore (Australia's main breeder of tuberous begonias),has released.
Breeding-- Usually there is one large (double) male flower with a (single) female flower on either side of it.If unsure, you can identify the female flower easily as it has a distinct ovary pod behind the petals.It will be 3 winged.
The biggest problem is a lack of pollen,which, when available, is well hidden on most cultivars, and quite sparse. It may not be on well defined anthers. Use a small soft pollinating brush and gently place what is available on the well defined stigma (on the single flowers). If the cross is successful , the petals fall off the female flower within a few days, the pod swells and starts to point downwards.It will be ripe when it begins to split in 6 to 8 weeks.
Sowing--the seed is indeed like dust, so take care not to sneeze or cough in it's direction !
In Australia, sow late June, early July in shallow seed pans about 3cm deep with sterilized soil, in a propagator set at 20c.
(Brian Langdon recommends 18c to 24c for Jan/Feb sowing in the Northern hemisphere)
I use 1 part peat moss to 2 parts seed raising mix. (recommended in Australia is 2 peat moss 1 sand 1 loam ) The peat should be sieved through fine mesh wire and after mixing and sterilizing, leveled flat. Water the seed tray from the bottom up in a water trough, but don't let the water overlap, as it will dig holes in the soil surface. As the seed is like dust, to get a good even distribution you can mix it with fine silver sterilized sand and using a sheet of paper, carefully spread it on the saturated surface ,Don't bury it or cover it, just let it sit on the surface of your soil mix.I then mist spray the soil, cover the tray with a plastic dome and place in the propagater. Others spread the seed and then water from the bottom, but if you miscalculate and water laps over the top, you will loose too much seed. You can cover the pan with a sheet of glass if you wish and position it in a well lit but shaded position.Don't let the soil dry out.Within about 8 days , using a magnifying glass, you will see tiny green specks.It will take longer if you have no heat.Prick out seedlings when their leaf is about half cm.Be careful as they are delicate. I use cell packs of either 100 or 64 at this stage, as there is less disturbance when they are potted up again. Brian Langdon says ''after germination,temperature is less critical, min 13c.''
I also used several different pollinators to a stigma, but recorded all.
Good luck, its quite easy and the seedlings can be flowered in their first year.
Hope I haven't muddled it too much
