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Author Topic: Compost for Hepaticas  (Read 1514 times)

P. Kohn

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Compost for Hepaticas
« on: February 09, 2017, 09:11:10 AM »
We have managed to raise a number of hepaticas this year but they look in need of moving on and getting fed.  We need to find a suitable compost and also pots. The general advice of a compost based on leaf mould is a possibility but we need quite a lot so a more readily available alternative would be good. Also have the feeling that deeper pots are desirable - currently the seedlings are in 7cm square pots and the ideal would be longer versions in which we occasionally buy plants but haven't found a supplier. Help would be appreciated.

Michael J Campbell

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Re: Compost for Hepaticas
« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2017, 10:06:24 AM »
Here is a post from Wisley  a few years ago.

At Wisley we grow them in:
1 part John Innes No. 2 + 1 part leafmould + 1 part Supercoarse Perlite
(This is the same mix that John Massey uses at Ashwood Nursery with his huge hepatica collection)
To this we also add 3g per litre of Vitax Q4 fertiliser, and 3g per litre of dolomitic limestone

We do liquid feed a bit - only in Spring and Autumn - with a balanced feed. And as Michael siad - much shading in summer!

COMPOST MIX

I use: 1 part John Innes no.3, 1 part leaf mould, 1 part perlite and 1 part composted bark, (all parts by volume). I add 3g per litre of mix of Vitax Q4 fertiliser and 2g of dolomitic limestone per litre of mix
REPOTTING

Repot each year just after flowering. This must be done very carefully and remember patience is a virtue - shake off all the old compost and look closely at the roots.

HOT TIP: - Now's the time to remove any damaged roots. Also look for any swollen nodules on the roots and cut these off - these may be a nematode pest. If the roots are madly vigorous they may be cut back by about one third.

Position the crown of the plant high in the pot, and fill to the brim with compost, then gently tap the pot on the bench just to settle it. Label immediately - you can't afford to get names mixed up or misplaced!
Water in afterwards and the job is done.

HOT TIP: - Do not pot too firmly. Don't squash the compost and hold the crown at the right level so that you don't bury it as you fill the pot.
WATERING & FEEDING

I always water early in the morning when it's coolest. Liquid feeding can be done in spring and autumn but withheld during summer. I feed with a balanced fertiliser and also give them some liquid seaweed extract feeds.
Water more frequently in early spring, less in summer & autumn, but never allow Hepatica's to dry out completely. During summer I damp down the floor and between the pots to increase humidity.

HOT TIP: - Remember to tell the plants how beautiful they are and say "Please grow well for me"!! My colleagues think I'm a bit mad but I know it works.

SHADING

Hepaticas' natural habitat is very dense woodland, and should be heavily shaded as soon as the flowers have finished. I put shading on the glass and also move the plants under the benches where it is even shadier. In November I take all the shading off again and put the plants back on the bench - winter light encourages better flowering.

HOT TIP:- The plants will tell you when it's time to shade - immediately after flowering, shading on and as the autumn leaves start to fall it is shading off. Keep it simple.
VENTILATION

Hepatica's like to be well ventilated so I have 2 fans blowing air on them constantly

PROPAGATION

Seed does not often come true, so if you want to ensure that offspring are identical to the parent then dividing is the thing to do. Do this while repotting - CAREFULLY teasing plants apart. Each individual crown with roots attached can be potted separately. If you don't mind the variation, growing from seed is fairly easy. Seed must be collected while still green i.e. very fresh or it will not germinate. Sow immediately onto a compost of equal parts of John Innes seed compost, leafmould and perlite. Cover with 0.5cm of grit, water gently in and place in a shady position. Germination will occur the following spring. This may be 10 months after sowing, so patience helps! I leave them to develop during their first summer, and then in late September or early October remove and carefully separate the young plants and pot individually

GOOD HOUSEKEEPING

My favourite, I do like to keep my house in order! So I'm daily looking at my plants and removing the odd fading flower petals, to stop them falling into the crown of the plant as this can cause rotting. I also remove any leaves that look diseased or damaged.

HOT TIP: - When deadheading the hepaticas, be careful not to damage the crown of the plant. Only remove old flower stems when they pull out easily.

You can all enjoy the beauty of this unusual Alpine. I can think of nothing better for early spring when
they express pure beauty and charm. Good luck and happy growing!

< PROPAGATION >
THERE ARE THREE METHODS OF PROPAGATION PRACTISED

1.  Division   This is generally done when repotting in Spring or Autumn.
2.  Cuttings  When potting in Autumn,a mature subterraneum stem is cut into several pieces and inserted into compost.
                 After one month new leaves emerge from the nodes.
3.  Seed      Seeds ripen approxiametely 40 days after pollination.These are sown as soon as ripe(in April)normally on sand.
                 They must not be allowed to dry out.

 


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