Scottish Rock Garden Club Forum
Cultivation => Cultivation Problems => Topic started by: John85 on May 12, 2012, 10:14:42 AM
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The IPPS recommand two methods:soft wood cuttings in April-May or later in July-September with semi ripe cuttings.
Which one do you use and what are the results?
What kind of rooting hormones do you use ?(concentration?)
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I know Michael Campbell will have the answer
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Hi John,
I took my first Daphne cneorum cuttings last year for a bit of practice for the plant propagation module I was studying. I took fully ripe cuttings at the end of October. These were split between 3 different compost mixes: JI seed and cutting / perlite, Coir/perlite and supermarket multipurpose/perlite at 50:50. These were then placed on a mist propagation bench with bottom heat. By Feb roots were coming out of the bottom of the seed tray. I used no rooting hormones. The take was 100%. ;D
Since then Darren has read in Lawrence Hills' 'Propagation of Alpines' that cuttings could be taken in late autumn but this advice does not seem to appear in any more recent books.
Susan
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Semi -ripe cuttings in July is the best bet, but Daphne cuttings are a hit and miss gamble at the best of times. Really depends on the growth of the mother plant as to when the cuttings are ready,requires a little experience. I have got 80% take one year and less than10% the following year using the same methods and timing. Daphnes are not the easiest of plants to work with, they are not very accommodating. I don't find any difference as to rooting powders, and some Daphnes don't like them, so I don't use them any more.I usually graft the difficult ones until I have enough stock plants to get a decent batch of cuttings. I haven't tried Susan's method of late autumn cuttings as I don't have a mist unit.
Sorry I can't be more helpful, but as I have said it is a hit and miss affair.
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I think my technique was very much based on one I learnt from me Mam - I didn't know that the plant was difficult to propagate or that I was doing it at the wrong time of the year, therefore I had no reason to doubt that it would work. :)
Darren has never had any success with cneorum cuttings and was very surprised when I succeeded. Beginners luck I suppose, I will certainly try again over the summer without using the mist bench and see what happens.
Susan
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Susan, if it is any consolation to you, the more I study a plant and the more knowledge I acquire as to how to grow and propagate it, the less successful I am at growing it. I used to grow a lot of plants much better years ago when I was not quite sure what I was doing. At one stage I filled a seed tray with Daphne cneorum cuttings and every one rooted, I don't think I even knew the name of the plant then.
I have never managed to repeat that success which I now put down to having more knowledge of the subject. ;D
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I've always had real trouble with Daphne cneorum cuttings compared with most other daphnes (D. collina also seems tricky). I usually take cuttings in September and find that a lot drop all their leaves quite quickly - those that don't carry on to root well. But like Michael we don't have mist. I've sometimes wondered if spraying with an anti-transpirant (as sometimes used for Christmas trees) might help. Taking cuttings from good fresh young plants is likely to help! Sounds like we need to invite Susan to show us how!
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(D. collina also seems tricky)
Tricky! I even have trouble getting grafts of Collina to take, and those that do usually refuse to grow on.
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Now I know how tricky they are I will probably never to manage to root another one. :) ;)
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Susan you can still do some layering!
Thank you all.
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Had a question on winter care of D. Calciola cuttings - advice , please?
From an Irish friend :
"I have daphne calcicola cutiings in a propagator since early August, with lid removed fulltime since I put them in a mini-greenhouse 3 weeks ago as weather has been mild. Should I put the lid back on on frosty nights/days? How best can I avoid fungal infections and damping off during mid winter? Please."
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Bet I know the best person to answer that and his initials are MJC ;D
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My initials initials are RIP which could be fatal for many cuttings ;D
We have been taking Daphne calcicola cuttings in late September the last couple of years, using perspex domes over a seed tray. They usually drop roots in early spring and are ready to pot up by mid summer. Excess moisture is shaken off the inside o the lid and the top vent is open 100%. Its not a perfect system and is still in development. Have tried cuttings in late Spring but these all failed.
It's been really interesting reading earlier comments. We've been propogating Daphne for 30+ years, usually taking semi hard wood cuttings between June and July, timing is critical, the weather for that year dictates when the material is semi hardwood, so a good eye & nose (experience) is invaluable. The last 3 years we have achieved 99% success rooting, unfortunately losses have occured initially after potting up and through their first winter. Well we have had some pretty nasty weather.
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Thank you, Rob. I'm happy to be numbered among Maggi's Irish friends.http://www.srgc.net/forum/Smileys/classic/kiss.gif (http://www.srgc.net/forum/Smileys/classic/kiss.gif)
When you say ...
"We have been taking Daphne calcicola cuttings in late September the last couple of years, using perspex domes over a seed tray. They usually drop roots in early spring and are ready to pot up by mid summer."
.... I wonder (a)where that seed tray is located e.g. indoors with window/artificial light and within what temperature range or outdoors with what protection from weather? (b) what if any precautions you take to prevent fungal infection?
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Hello Brendan
The trays are on benching in a cold, ventillated poly tunnel. No chemicals are used to reduce fungal infection.
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Very interesting to read these experiences with daphne cuttings because results can be so variable. We have found many of the smaller species and hybrids (eg: D. arbuscula, D. 'Spring Sonnet' etc.) a lot easier than D. cneorum, probably in part because cuttings have been taken from younger and stronger plants (the old clones of D. cneorum, like many older selections of plants, may simply lose the ability to be propagated so easily). We haven't grown many newer selections of D. cneorum with which to compare. On the whole we have taken cuttings later than often recommended (i.e.: in early autumn rather than summer) with reasonably good success, and now reading of Rob's experience with D. calcicola will try this next year.
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Sorry for the late reply folks, was away at the AGS alpine weekend in Termonfeckin and when I came home last night I was exhausted and fell asleep,the beauty of old age. :-[
I have really nothing to add to Rob's reply and as he said it is a matter of getting to know your plant and when to take cuttings. Daphnes are temperamental plants and what works for one person may not work for another.One year 100% success and the next 100% failure,I am afraid that is the way it goes.
cheers.
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Out of interest for those reading this section, attach images taken three years ago ....
ONE. Stock plant of Daphne Tichborne that cuttings were taken off
TWO. Cuttings in trays
THREE. Cuttings potted up.
From 600 cuttings taken off the plant 597 rooted.
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WOW!, Rob that was a good success rate, now can you do that every year ? :P :)
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I think if I had that good a success once I'd be happy!
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Rob, what is your secret? I took cuttings this year of a bunch of Daphnes, and only very few took. Will you share how you get this great result please?
Marianne
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As the discussions gets slightly off topic maybe I can ask when and how to root D. calcicola cuttings?
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Michael, without getting too confident, yes we could do it every year but could not sell the 600 plants that quickly. After 3 years we have 70 plants remaining from the original 597, there have been losses but mostly sales.
Marianne & Herbert, I think these questions have been discussed earlier in this subject.