Scottish Rock Garden Club Forum
General Subjects => Travel / Places to Visit => Topic started by: Peter Maguire on July 16, 2009, 10:33:06 PM
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I've recently returned from an SRGC trip to Pontresina, in south-east Switzerland, led by Julia Corden, and although it was not my first trip to the Alps to look at plants, it's the first opportunity I've had to go there at the optimum time for plant spotting. The number and range of species seen over the eight days was phenomenal, we were lucky to have good weather, and having someone to point out plants that I would perhaps otherwise have overlooked was invaluable. Several people on the trip asked whether I would be posting photographs so here's the first batch (it's taking some time to thin out 1450 pictures and make sure that they are properly labelled), and I'll keep things in chronological order, so that it may be useful to future visitors to see where certain plants can be found in the area.
The first day was spent in the vicinity of Pontresina, partly to acclimatise to the 1800m of altitude, and partly because the Swiss railway system which delivers your luggage to the hotel struggled to cope with the four train changes between Zurich airport and Pontresina, so most of us only had the clothes we travelled in until we returned to the hotel that evening. Being limited to the local area was not, however, a problem, as there was a fabulous range of species in the vicinity. Most of the following photographs from the first day were taken along a fairly level path in the woods above the east side of the village.
1. Aquilegia atrata - this was actually in a garden in the village, but I've included it as we saw it at lower altitudes on the train journey up from Chur
2. Phyteuma scheuchzeri
3. Aquilegia sp.- Julia had this down as a garden escape, although it was on it's own, fairly high above the village. Aquilegia vulgaris does have white forms, but Flora Helvetica does not list it in this area, so I'm callling it A.vulgaris, but an escaped specimen
4. Verbascum thasus montanum - the plant list I've just received lists Verbascum sp for this day, but I scrambled down to this plant and I'm fairly confident of the identification after examing the photos
5. A rather attractive clump forming Viola which I thought was a good form of Viola riviniana, but by this time I was well behind the group and missed some identifications. Update Further examination of the original photo (enlarged) proves I was mistaken, it is, in fact Viola canina; whatever the name, it would be look good on the show bench
6. Another of 'my' identifications. I have this as Veronica officinalis, but it isn't on the plant list, and I had seen this and the Viola being closely examined by the group before I got there so please feel free to correct me.
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Oh! Joy! A trip to Pontresina..... hang on, I'll get my walking boots......... thanks for this Peter! :-*
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7. Polygonum viviparum - an attractive little plant that was present all through the vally at lower altitudes
8. Paradisea liliastrum - these we first saw in great numbers on top of what was almost a small cliff, so not everyone got up close to see them. There were, however, plenty in the meadow around the corner :-\
10. Looking down from the Paradisea site to the rest of the party
11. Also on top of this outcroup was a boggy hollow with many orchids - we saw better vanilla orchids later, but here was Dactylorhiza majalis
12. Gymnadenia conopsea (the Fragrant orchid)
13. And this one, which may be a hybrid, but looks to have something of Dactylorhiza fuchsii in it.
Picture 9 in this sequence has been deleted - we saw a better example later
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14. We shouldn't neglect the wildlife, so here's a Scarce Copper butterfly (Heodes virgaureae montanus ♂)
15. Lunch stop (no we hadn't fallen out, it's just a question of finding a comfortable rock)
16. Another butterfly, Mazarine Blue (Cyaniris semiargus ♀)
17. Clematis alpina spreading across the ground under coniferous trees. At home it was long past flowering on the fence; it looks more at home here
18. Geranium sylvaticum. Ok, it's common here in Britain also, but a lovely plant none the less.
19. The male version of the previous butterfly, Mazarine Blue (Cyaniris semiargus ♂)
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20. In mid afternoon, most people returned to the village, ice creams and a change of clothes (the luggage had arrived!), but I explored a little above an area of slabby rocks near the top of a meadow covered in Pusatilla alpina apiifolia (picture later). Here were several good plants, the first one being Orchis mascula
21. There were lots of vanilla orchids, and it can be difficult to separate the two species as colour alone is not a good enough indicator. From the broad lip of the flower, I have this as Nigritella rubra
22. First gentian of the trip, Gentina utriculosa
23. Veronica spicata, just about to open its flowers
24. Pinks (Dianthus sylvestris) were scattered along the cracks in the rocks
25. Close-up of the Fragrant Orchid (Gymnadenia conopsea)
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Thanks for these lovely postings, Peter, the orchids are gorgeous but I love the Veronica and Viola too :) Thrilled to see some real ID's of Swiss Alpines from "la bouche de chevaux", so to speak ;D
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the orchids are gorgeous
There's more to come, lots more ;D
26. Lesser butterfly orchid, Platanthera bifolia
29. Gentianella campestris; yes it really is a purplish colour, but not a bad plant for an annual/biennial
30. Aster alpinus - lots of this around, but not so easy to find a photogenic clump
31. Small White orchid (now known as Pseudorchis albida, the plant formerly known as Leucorcis albida, Gymnadenia albida, etc). Beware, taxonomists at work ::)
27. Another view of Dianthus sylvestris with a backdrop of....
28. Sempervivum arachnoideum
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Morning Peter and the Group, hope the weather is better for you there than in this part of Switzerland - clouds rolling in up the valley shrouding the mountainside from view and now thunder and torrential rain!
I am so entranced by your wonderful photo postings; they are ALL so beautifully photographed in real life colours and great compositions with great comments - thank you! ;)
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Great start Peter !
I had the pleasure to stay in Pontresina (at the Camping site below the Morteratsch glacier) some 25 years ago... ::)
You will surely be bringing back some happy memories !
Your pix are very promising and you captured the blue of the Gentian (pic 22) perfectly ! :o This never works for me... :'(
I'll be looking forward to muuuuuuch more ! ;)
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What a great way to start an overcast day here in East Anglia, great photos Peter, I appreciate what an amount of time goes into sorting them all out....I can't wait for more :D
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Ok, back at the computer following a weekend away, so I'll post the rest of the first day's photos.
32. I mentioned that the previous photos were taken on a rocky outcrop in a meadow full of Pulsatilla alpina apiifolia, well this shows the pulsatillas. A difficult colour of flower to record correctly, tending to overexpose easily, but this can be rectified when back at the computer. Pontresina village can be seen in the background.
33. Close up of individual Pulsatilla flower
34. At intervals through the woods we can across Lilium bulbiferum croceum, looking almost as if they were escaped garden plants as they were so boldy coloured (they weren't, it's native to the area)
35. Lilium close up. (Lilium martagon was also present in the area, but was only in bud when we were there - I did not take any photos of this species)
36. Veratrum album ssp lobelianum occurred at several scattered localities, and we also saw in later in the week on the far side of the Bernina Pass
37 Sempervivum tectorum growing on thin soil in a clearing in the forest
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38. Down in the meadows just above the village, there was a sea of the pink Polygonum bistorta, which looked at its best when backit by the late afternoon sun.
39. Another butterlfly, the Large Ringlet (Erebia euryale) which is fairly common across the Alps, but I've never had a good enough photo to allow me to identify it previously.
40. Back in the village, two plants which do occur naturally in the area, but you can never be sure whether these specimens were planted. Firstly Saponaria ocymoides in a retaining wall.
41. Campaula glomerata - a showy plant at the roadside, which may have seeded from someone's garden
That's all for the first day; arriving back at the hotel it was good to discover that the luggage had arrived. Changes of clothes, but more importantly my tripod! The previous photos were taken using the camera bag as support, and I've spared you many blurred rejects. :-*
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I've really enjoyed the pictures Peter. It's not an area I am familiar with but I'm glad to see it's a party of youngsters, hope you managed to keep up with them.
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Looking forward to days 2 3 4 ....
It is an area I will have to go back to judging by what I missed on my last visit :)
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The Pulsatilla meadow is just dreamlike - never saw something similar!
Thankyou for showing!
Gerd
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I agree with Gerd, that meadow is just stunning :o
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Wonderful meadow shots that made me gasp with delight too, Peter, and I love the Large Ringlet photo :)
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I'm glad to see it's a party of youngsters, hope you managed to keep up with them.
- only just.
The Pulsatilla meadow is just dreamlike - never saw something similar!
- it certainly had our tour leader amazed, and was worth the trip for that meadow alone (almost :D)
Thanks for all your kind comments folks, The good news is that day 2 is ready so here goes. For a bit of altitude training we went up the Val Muragl (accessible by mountain railway from just down the valley from Pontresina)
1. This photo was taken a day or so later and shows the route we took: the mountain railway finishes at '1', from there we walked along the visible track to Lej (lake) Muragl at '2', before returing along the valley to '3' then along a high level terrace-like path to '4', where you can descend to Pontresina. I should point out that on most days, the party divided after lunch and I tended to stay with the more active (or perhaps I should say ambitious) group in the afternoon. On this day, over half the party returned to the mountain railway to descend; they were the ones whose knees were able to bend the next day! Those of you who have tried to descend to valley level through steep alpine forests will know exactly what I mean.
2. From Muottas Muragl, the funicular station, this was the view up the Engadine valley with St Moritz by the near lake.
3. A nice little Viola tricolor found just behind the funicular station
4. We're going up there!
5. Just as we set off, there was a good display of Gagea fistulosa (I never thought I'd say that about a Gagea ;D) in a boggy patch
6. Close up of Gagea fistulosa
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7. Replaced by a better photo later
8. Gentiana punctata featured heavily along the first part of the path. this was new to me, and I was suprised to see how large the plants were.
9. A 'proper blue gentian' - Gentiana acaulis. These were everwhere, it was just a question of finding the most photgenic group.
10. Here's one for Cliff - Ranunculus kuepferi. It isn't in my edition of the Collins alpine flowers guide, but was very common in this valley. Obtaining a good photograph was tricky, as many clumps and individual plants tended to drop one or two petals, presumably in the slightest breeze.
11. Loiseleuria procumbens was failry common in the first part of the walk (at about 2500m), with noticeably better flowering where the stems overlaid rocks, and presumably the developing flowerbuds were warmed.
12. Myositis alpestris was seen most days - not the intense blue of Eritrichium nanum, we're not high enough for that yet, but still a pretty little thing
13. Viola calcarata occurred sporadically throughout the area, but when found was generally in generous clumps
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14. Another good group of Gentiana acaulis
15. Looking down past Gentiana punctata to St Moritz
16. A dainty plant of Androsace obtusifolia, with what looks like Sempervivum montanum peeping out from underneath.
17. Vaccinium myrtilloides (or bilberry to those who like eating the berries when walking in northern England/Scotland in the autumn).
18. Still alongside the path, at around 2600m, a nice colour form of Loiseleuria procumbens, showing how the branches overlying the rock flower better.
19. Primula latifolia was fairly common at this height; tucked under the edges of boulders was a particularly favoured site, which meant much grovelling on the ground to obtain a photo.
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20. You know you're getting high when you find crocus in late June. These Crocus albiflorus were just past their best, but were the only ones I found this day.
21. Of course if high enough for crocus, then we're high enough for Soldanellas. Soldanella pusilla was the common species around here.
22. The classic soldanella image - Soldanella pusilla again.
23. Primula integrifolia began to appear in wet areas higher up, here at 2700m with a view of Lej Muragl in the background, and which was the limit of our climbing in view of the snow cover.
24. Lej Muragl, looking up to the pass. Not many flowers up there in these conditions.
25. Once we started back down the valley, we came across a few Soldanella alpina, but only one or two, but not in the thousands like S. pusilla Note: the plant is actually Soldanella alpina, as mentioned here.
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26. The weather began to improve as we descended Val Muragl, here is Sempervivum montanum, with some dazzling white quartz in the sunlight.
27. The predominent flower colour in the valley was yellow, much of it from Geum montanum
28. Even down here though, there were still many Gentina acaulis. This plant had a smoky purple cast to the flower colour which was rather attractive, although the purists may feel that it should be blue. Perhaps at sea level the colour would be described as muddy (by a show judge maybe), but at this height it looked good to me.
29. Some of the yellow came from Potentilla crantzii, and like many of the plants we saw, it was in perfect condition. We must have been very lucky with the timing and with the season.
30. Everyone walked past this colour form of Geum montanum without seeing it (well it was one amongst thousands), but it was right by the path and hard to miss. The red colouring does not seem to be the flowers 'going over', as the whole flower turned an orange colour and looked a bit crispy when that happened.
31. Although it was commoner below the treeline, Rhodendron ferrugineum stared to appear - along with the sun - at a fairly high altitude.
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32. Scrambling back up to the path, I passed this attractive little Composite. I'm calling it Leontodon hispidus, but if that's correct then I'll be pleasantly surprised.
33. Very easy walking with views up the Engadine valley, this could almost qualify as the perfect path :D
34. A new range of flowers was starting to appear, and Leocanthemopsis alpina looked good in the developing sunshine.
35. This was probably the large flowering patch of Daphne striata that we saw during the week, and was growing through a low juniper.
36. Silene acaulis clothing some rocks alongside the path. Does it ever put on anything other than a patchy display of flowering?
37. Lots more Rhododendron ferrugineum around here. The path was following the treeline above Pontresina by now and Rhododendron was common in the slightly damper hollows.
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38. Once back at the treeline, orchids started to put in an appearance. There were Small White orchids (Pseudorchis albida) here and also several possible Orchis mascula hybrids. We called this one Orchis mascula, and perhaps that might be correct even with unspotted leaves, but close examination of the flowers shows a very divided lip which is not typical of this species.
39. As mentioned earlier, the path was delightful, and this is a typical view up Val Bernina to Piz Palü.
40. Polygala chamebuxus - this is the only plant I saw on the trip, but the plant list shows that it was seen on the previous and next days also.
41. Saxifraga paniculuata was not common, but appeared in small numbers on most days
42. Another orchid that is something like Orchis mascula, but not quite
43. Here's a close up of the flowers showing the deeply divided lip.
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44. Still on this high level terrace (there were a lot of good plants, and I probably missed some as I was having to hurry now as it was getting late and food was calling to me from the valley below), here is Phyteuma hedraianthifolium.
45. No, it's not an orchid, but Hedysarum hedysaroides puts on a similarly spectacular display.
46. Pedicularis can be challanging, both to grow, and identify, but this one is definitely Pedicularis tuberosa, probably one of the less spectacular species of what can be a showy genus.
47. Another viola, Vila biflora, was common in the woods, but not often flowering as well as this.
48. As we descended through the woods, I was shown (because I would have missed it!) this Frog orchid (Coeloglossum viride). There had been one seen the previous day (we saw lots more later), but I was well behind the main party at the time and didn't even see the large arrow scratched in the path that pointed to it :-[
49. Close up of the flower spike, backlit in the sunshine.
50. To finish this day, a Fragrant orchid (Gymnadenia conopsea) that was nearby.
Assuming no-one's had enough yet, I'll press on with preparing day 3's pictures. We were there for eight days in total, so this thread may continue for some time!
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Wonderful views and a great trip along your path on the mountainside seeing such lovely plants and enjoying your comments, Peter :)
The orchids look very special in the late afternoon light, 49 and 50 are my favourites but the Polygala chamebuxus is enchanting too
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I just drooled over the Loiseleuria, has anyone had any success growing it from seed? I've had it a couple of times from seed exchanges but it never germinates.
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I just drooled over the Loiseleuria, has anyone had any success growing it from seed? I've had it a couple of times from seed exchanges but it never germinates.
We grow it, Shelagh, but we only get occasional flowers.... just not getting warm enough down too near the sea, I reckon. To see larger mats with floers like this is fantastic...... I've seen bigger expanses of Loiseleuria flowers in this forum than in the wild in Scotland........ :-X see this post by Philip McDougall to see the plant at it's best...... http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=1973.msg49130#msg49130 .... I was amazed by these photos.
Sorry for going off topic here, but this is one of my MOST favourites plants of all..... had to take the chance to share those pix again!
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Peter,
thanks for showing us such marvelous pictures. :o 8)
Many species I still like to have in my garden... :P (but have no space :'()
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Peter, take as long as you like over the next 6 days! It will be worth the wait. In 2006 I was in Pontresina late June/early July. After the exceptionally hot summer of 2005 some plants were 'recovering', you have seen some great plants and recorded them very well. Here are a few pics of Lej Muragl and the walk on up to the Fuorcla without the snow! You did not miss much, a very rocky path, steep too with few plants. One I did see was Geum reptans in classic boulder strewn habitat. Looks quite like Geum montanum no27 in your series.
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great stuff, peter! love the pulsatilla meadow, and great to see the semps, among others!
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It's great to see and hear about other people's reflections and thoughts of the same place as we're going along - a scene or plant jogs the memory and can be re-visited :)
Thanks for your memory jog in Reply 27 link Maggi:
.... had to take the chance to share those pix again!
What an incredible journey!
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One I did see was Geum reptans in classic boulder strewn habitat.
- Tony, we saw Geum reptans also - this will appear later. Too bad you were too late for the crocuses ;), but it was interesting to see Fuorcla Muragl without the snow.
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Finally managed to get some more photographs put together, so here's the third day of the Pontresina trip. As the weather had improved dramatically to glorious blue skies (with afternoon cloud becoming evening thunderstorms, a pattern that persisted for the rest of the week), the plan was to go up the Diavolezza cable car, which lies further up the Bernina Pass from Pontresina, to just under 3000m for the views - we didn't expect to see many plants at this altiude due to the snow cover. Then we aimed to descend back to the valley and explore the side valley of Val da Fain opposite the cable car. Due to the fact that I hd developed a heavy cold, I opted to stay up at the Diavolezza top station to potter about and take scenic photos (I got to Val da Fain later in the week on our 'free' day). There shouldn't have been many plants at that altitude, but I still managed a good day as you will see.
1. Before we got on the train up the valley, I was pointed in the direction of ......, yes, another orchid. Corallorhiza trifida, the coral root orchid, is saprophytic (I think), and certainly does not have any leaves to aid in spotting it in the pine forests. not the showiest of orchids, but the flowers, when seen in close-up..
2. ... are quite attractive.
3. This view, looking east from the top cable car station shows the Val da Fain in the middle distance, just left of centre, where the rest of the party would spend a very hot afternoon. The mountains in the back ground stretch away into Austria.
4. Before lunch, I was mainly taking scenic pictures as Diavolezza looks over the head of the Morteratsch glacier to some spectaculer mountain scenery, here Piz-Palü, with some spectacular hanging glaciers.
5. To the right of this view is Piz Bernina, the highest in the area at 4000m+
6. There were some plants, however (and what plants). Firstly Hutchinsia alpina, looking far better than it ever does in a sea level garden.
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7. Primula latifolia was here also, tucked under a rock as usual.
8. In the vicinity of the cable car station were some fine Ranunculs glacialis, again tucked away in crevices mainly, possibly because of the heavy foot traffic in the area.
9. Close-up of the flowers
10. After lunch I wandered north along the ridge and discovered a scree slope with hundreds of Ranunculus glacialis. Of many photos taken, this was the biggest plant.
11. Just a little further along the ridge it steepened, as this was as far as I was able to drag myself, but it was worth the effort. Geum reptans was here.
12. As were some stunning examples of Androsace alpina.
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Terrific pictures Peter.
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13. Another Androsace alpina.
14. Saving the best till last, this small outcrop also held Eritrichium nanum :o
15. Close-up. On the show bench, this could be a Forrest medal winner (of course it's utterly impossible, no-one could produce a plant like this at sea level).
16. For a grand finale, ther was even a white one :) :o
That's all I was able to do for that day, returning back down the cable car and then to the hotel, however, had I been at home, I probably would have been able to drag myself out of bed.
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Oh Boy! The more I see the more sure I am that I will revisit this area. I missed the Androsace alpina and the white Eritrichium although I did take a similar path to you after having my lunch! I wonder if my 'biggest one' is the same plant as yours? :o Pity about the heavy cold, when I arrived in Pontresina I was suffering from a gastric bug so I know how it feels to have to curtail the activity when you desperately want to keep going.
There is a great article introducing the plants and some walks in the Pontresina area in the July edition of The Rock Garden .... almost too much of a good thing ;)
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Peter,
Super plants and pics.
I think the Dianthus gratianopolitanus is D. silvestris and Soldanella montana is S. alpina.
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Oh, Peter!!!! :o :o :o :o :o :o :o
I just caught this little walk of yours! Stunning. From the Pulsatilla meadow to the Loiseleuria procumbens and the wonderful Ranunculus glacialis.... too many wonderful things to wax lyrical over. Wow!! Thank you for the tour. :)
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It gets better and better Peter, as you say, what wonderful images of alpine plants clinging to rocks, in crevices and on scree with not another sign of anything growing under the mountain sky! This is a magnificent world that lifts one's spirits, even if feeling a little under the weather - thanks for your efforts to show us these plants in situ :)
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Franz,
I think the Dianthus gratianopolitanus is D. silvestris and Soldanella montana is S. alpina
Many thanks for picking up my deliberate mistakes ::)
Actually I had got the Soldanella correct in the text, but the caption was wrong : Maggi has fixed them ;).
As for the Dianthus, I was going from the original, provisional, identification on my voice recorder at the time. The name has been changed on Julia's final plant list, but I missed that correction (perhaps I was in the bar at the time) Oh well, the senior moments seem to be coming thick and fast these days.
Day 4 will follow later this evening, watch this space.....
Peter
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Good gracious, it's like having the best spring show in a natural setting. What a thrill to see all these spring flowering plants in high summer! 8)
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Absolutely magnificent plants, landscapes and images Peter (and Tony) ... true alpines in a high mountain setting.
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Thanks for your repair work Maggi :)
To proceed to day 4. Because I had seen Eritrichium and Androsace alpina, whilst no-one else had ::), I think that Julia was keen to try and find them today, so it was time another trip in a cable car to 3000m to assess the situation. The plan was to go to the top station of the Corvatsch cable car (actually on a shoulder of Piz Murtel at about 3100m), admire the views, with coffee in hand, then return to the middle station to botanise. We were 'certain' to find Eritrichium there, because Julia had an advance copy of Michael Almond's article (in the current edition of 'The Rock Garden') and it was fairly precise about where we would find it.
1. We started with a slight hiccup and missed the fact fact we had to change buses to get to the cable car. Hurriedly dismounting in the pretty little villlage of Segl Maria, I found this splendid old weather station in the village whilst waiting for the connecting bus which would take us to the cable car station.
2. Ascending in the cable car gave splendid views of the upper Engadine valley.
3. The views from the top station were again stunning - this shows the other side of Piz Bernina than that we had previously seen, with Piz Roseg on the right. There were virtually no plants up here, only a couple of small Saxifraga oppositifolia tucked under the radio dishes of the top station and perched over an imressive drop. (They were identified through binoculars, no photos taken!)
4, 5, and 6. Returning to the middle station, there was still extensive snow cover, but the melt water irrigated carpets of Primula integrifolia, which provided a perfect site for lunch.
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7. For lunch, we had to be careful to find a comfy boulder that did not involve crushing primulas to reach it. Note the SRGC mugs in use!
8. There were some very nice examples of Coltsfoot (Tussilago farfara) just emerging through the dead grasses here.
9. Also in the same area were more sheets of Loiselueria procumbens, and this small patch of Lloydia serotina.
10 & 11. Although it seemed unlikely, due to the snow cover, that the local Eritrichium would be in flower, some of us went trekking into the basin below the Fuorcla Surlej to see what was around. There were no Eritrichium to be found, but there were some fine Saxifraga oppositifolia specimens.
12. Even up here, traffic was a problem, with some workers driving back to the valley after their shift (the cable car loked safer!)
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13. This small mountain sorrel, Oxyria dignia, looked quite attractive at about 10cms height, but there were larger and coarser examples around, and this would probably be it's fate in garden conditions.
14. During the trip, we were generally too late for Pulsatilla vernalis, with most plants being in seed, however there was the odd plant to be seen on most days. This was one of the better ones.
15. Another plant seen most days in small numbers was Veronica bellidioides, a lovely blue colour.
16. Where the Eritrichium should have been the snow had only just melted, and there were even very few soldanellas, but in the basin below the Fourcla Surlej were hollows where willows grew. I had the impression that the first snows of last winter had covered them before theri leaves were shed, and they just dropped to the ground around the plant.
17. Browsing through Michael Almond's article in the Journal which arrived today, he has a picture taken in almost exactly the same spot showing Geum reptans - we were struggling to find anything remotely green (just like the 'first green shoots' of the economic recovery).
18. Trekking back to the cable car the sun re-appeared, but the Eritrichium remained elusive.
19. Last picture for the day: we had seen Campanula thyrsoides just behind the lower cable car station on the way up. With the sun out, there was just time to dash round for a quick photograph before the bus came.
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.............7. For lunch, we had to be careful to find a comfy boulder.............
Peter, you mountain walkers must be pretty hard, a sandwich is about all I can manage :P Fantastic set of pics, thanks for posting them
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There are always rock cakes, David ...
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Ok, Day 5 of the Pontresina trip is prepared, so here's some more photos from earlier this month (this thread is becoming increasingly less topical!).
For this day we went again to 3000m on Piz Nair, hunting the elusive Eritrichium, this time with more success, as we were on a south-facing slope and the plants were that little further advance than the dormant ones below Fuorcla Surlej from the previous day. In fact we even saw Eritrichium from the cable car. The ascent from St Moritz begins up 2 funiculaur railways, before changing to a cable car for the last ascent.
1. This view from the upper cable car station looks down the length of the cable to Corviglia (the top of the funicular and to where we later walked - although over half the party returned down the cable car and botanised further down). The cable car passes close to the cliffs along the ridge, and Eritrichium nanum stood out like small blue jewels against the orange-coloured rock of the ridge. Pontresina can be seen in the middle distance on the righr of the photograph.
2. Looking south from Piz Nair over the lower reaches of the valley we descended into (we approached from the right and contoured around Piz Nair to the Corviglia station). On the skyline is Piz Bernina on the left and Piz Corvatsch just left of centre.
3. Finally everyone was able to observe Eritrichium nanum at close quarters, and our tour leader, Julia, all smiles again :D. Incidentally, although this clump of Eritrichium was the biggest and best around, it still took a couple of minutes 'gardening' with a pair of tweezers to get it looking like this.
4. Looking down the ridge, which doesn't quite give the sense of exposure that was present where we found these plants. Shall we say that they must have had good air movement around the cushions ;).
5. and Saxifraga exarata.
6. There were also other plants in the area at the top of the east ridge, here is Gentiana bavarica verna?.
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7. This is the SRGC party at the top of the east ridge (we did not descend it - there is a path, which may have looked attractive to mountain goats and similar alpinists) and the cable car station was just over the skyline. Eritrichium can been seen scattered around the scree on the left.
8. Ranunculus glacialis was here as well, and although the clumps may have been smaller than on Diavolezza, the rusty-coloured scree made for a very photogenic topdressing.
9. As it did for Androsace alpina.
10. Once we had despatched a group back down the cable car for some gentler walking, about 8 of us set off down a track down to the Suvretta pass to the north of the peak. being on this side, there was still a lot of snow (it was possible to glissade down the track using walking poles for balance) and with clouds around the peaks, I had looked longingly at the sunshine around the bottom cable car station at Corviglia. I was, however, soon glad to have made the choice of the longer walk. Just about 0.5km down the path, the rock changed to a very shattered slatey material, with many Ranunculs glacialis, Androsace alpina, and some attractive Linaria alpina, shown here.
11. There was also more Gentiaina bavarica - here showing the characteristic leaves overlapping on the stems.
12. Many of the individual plants were not as neat, or as showy as on the other side of the peak, although it has to be said that many of the best were probably inaccessible, as this view looking up the cliffs overlooking the track shows. Several of the plants have been circled in red (there is a particularly fine Androsace alpina on the right), and I have probably missed several more, like the Eritrichium at the bottom of the picture. Getting up to these plants was not considered to be an option ;)
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Feel as if I'm almost up there with you! Weatherbeaten plants are a feature in the garden as well as in the mountains ... in fact I reckon they generally fare better in their own home than in ours ;) Thanks again.
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Nearer the pass, the scree became less shale-like and more consolidated as it flattened out, particularly to the left of the track where there was a condiderable level area before the ground fell away to Val Suvretta da St Murrazan. This was a fabulous area for plants.
13. Not the best Silene acaulis, but something was presumably living underneath it (burrow next to the rock) and had obviously nibbled away at the base of the cushion, I assume when there was still snow covering the area.
14. Pedicularis kerneri is fairly common in this area - small plants, but a brilliant pink in colour.
15. This gives some idea of the richness of the plant life. You can see Eritrichium naum, Silene acaulis, Saxifraga exearata...... 8)
16. some plants we hadn't seen before: Potentilla crantzii
17. and more that we had: Gentiana bavarica?/verna?
18. Draba alpina Draba aizoides
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Weatherbeaten plants are a feature in the garden as well as in the mountains
It wasn't just the plants that were weather beaten, the afternoon thunderstorms were entertaining as well, resulting in weatherbeaten walkers ;) Actually this day we were missed by the storms, altough they were on surrounding peaks, however the nest day I was thoroughly soaked........ :-[
19. This area was so good, we just had to pick our way carefully between the Eritrichium cushions and find a place for lunch. This was taken between bites of a sandwich and shows Piz Güglia in the background. If you don't recognise the plant in the foreground, you really haven't been paying attention.
20. Both these Gentian were identified as Gentiana bavarica by Julia (admittedly from the screen on the back of the camera), but examining the photograph at home I'm fairly sure that the one on the left is Gentiana brachyphylla as you can just see the different leaves. The one on the right seems to be Gentiana verna upon closer examination.
21. Just below the pass, we followed a path that contoured around the south side of Piz Nair back to Corviglia. The weather was dull. with light rain over this stretch, with thunder echoing from Piz Güglia on the other side of the valley, and many of the plants we had seen previously, but there was a fine clump of Prinula integrifolia just below the pass.
22 & 23. Also some nicely coloured Daphne striata along the track.
24. As we approached the meadows above Corviglia (the only area we saw to have been badly cut-up by the winter activities of the skiing fraternity) there was a wet snowmelt area with large numbers of Soldanella pusilla
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25. There were also small numbers of Soldanella alpina amongst the grasses in slighlty drier areas.
26. Draba alpina aizoides was down here as well - this was a fine clump.
27. Approaching Corviglia funicular/cable car interchange, this strange site greeted us, having been overlooked on the way up. At first I thought that the boat at 2500m was making a statement about global warming and projected sea level rises, but apparently it is used for weddings :o. It takes all sorts....
28. We had seen many marmots from the funicular on the way up, and I thought that this picture might be the best marmot photograph that I would get. You will have to wait for day 7 for better ones.
29. Having returned to Pontresina following a 'refreshing' heavy shower in St Moritz, the weather improved, so I went for a walk around the village and into the local woods. This Sempervivum archnoideum was part of a colony in a retaining wall on the way to the station.
30. A new plant to me (and one that I found all by myself :D - although we later discovered that the woods at the bottom of Val Roseg were full of it) was Linneaea borealis, here growing across a tree stump.
31. And finally for this day, a Knapweed Fritillary (Melitaea phoebe) on Phyteuma sp.
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Stunning pictures Peter !!! :o
Some of the best clumps of Eritrichium nanum I've ever seen !
Thanks so much for showing !!
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Thanks Luc, I'd never travelled at the right time (or to the right place) to see Eritrichium before, but I think that I made up for lost time ;D
There are many more Eritrichium photos (and Ranunculus glacialis, and.....), but I'm trying to limit the numbers. I wouldn't want the site to crash because I had overloaded it, Maggi would be cross! ::)
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Great shots Peter, I love the Linaria alpina - cute alpine tucked away :)
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There are many more Eritrichium photos (and Ranunculus glacialis, and.....), but I'm trying to limit the numbers. I wouldn't want the site to crash because I had overloaded it, Maggi would be cross!
Funny you should say that, Peter.... Fred has just had to arrange for a further Band Width increase.... the last allocation arranged was enough for a long time.... or so we thought... it has been exceeded already and it has been necessary to increase once more.... this site grows faster than me on a chocolate binge! What a success.... all these thousands of photos and discussions between forumists around the world.....This really is the biggest "group" of the SRGC.... and the one which reaches the widest "outside " audience..... give yourselves a round of applause, Forumists!!
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More wonderful images, Peter ... many thanks once again.
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Fantastic alpine plants, beautifully photographed.
Enjoyed your photos immensely. Thanks
By the way Draba alpina grows not in central Europe. It is a native of Artic and subartic Europe. Your pictures show Draba aizoides.
Your wonderful Gentiana bavarica is definitely not G. bavarica. I think it is G. verna.
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Franz,
Thank you again for correcting my mishaps. I had labelled the Draba correctly in the files on my computer, but had somehow gone astray when preparing it for the website - I have posted the corrections, although the picture file name remains uncorrected, it needs a woman's touch ;)
The gentians are a group I have always struggled with (I see that Diane had similar problems in St Anton), and when we were in Pontresina, Julia told me to concentrate on the leaves rather that the flowers, which are variable. I've looked back over the pictures I have posted and labelled Gentiana bavarica, from day 5, and would appreciate any comments that anyone could make on my line of thinking about the labels:
Picture 5 - I would agree that this looks like a Gentiana verna flower. The leaves, which should be overlapping in Gentian bavarica, according to the books, are not visible. Unfortunately the calyx, which should be slightly winged in G. verna is out of focus, but looks to be winged, so we'll call this one Gentiana verna.
Picture 11 - This one shows the classically overlapping leaves of G. bavarica, but the calyx looks to me to be slightly winged, so Gentiana bavarica (probably).
Picture 18 - The two clumps here have very different flower forms, but the leaves seem to definitely overlap along the stem, although the stems have not really elongated much. The flowers on both clumps have definitely winged calyxs (calicies?). By now I'm really confused and don't know what to call them.
Picture 20 - The left-hand plant I would still call Gentiana brachyphylla based on the leaves visible under the left flower of the pair, but looking at the leaves of the plant on the right (and the winged calyx), I think that this is a definite G. verna.
I 've modified the captions to pictures 5, 18 and 20 - for now!
Peter
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In case anyone was wondering what had happaened to the rest of the Pontresina photographs, I have been away in early August (including a week in the Austrian Tyrol :) - photographs to follow!), and having returned home and prepared the day 6 photos, the computer died on me. However now that I'm back up and running with a new power supply unit, here's day 6.
This was our free day, with no planned flower walks (some people even went shopping :o). I was determined to visit Val da Fain, which everyone else had been to on day 3 after the Diavolezza cablecar trip, when I wasn't feeling too well, as apparently the orchids were exceptional. Val da Fain is well known for it's range of plants - Piz Alv on the south side of the valley introduces calcareous rocks, and a different flora to the area. I was on my own all day, so some of the identifications may be tentative.
1. Before reaching the entrance to the valley, there was plenty to see around the train station, car park and crossing the river. These Pedicularis tuberosa were right next to the Diavolezza cablecar station - there were many frog orchids here also.
2. The only one I saw, but this Dianthus superbus resulted in some of the party returning with me the next day as we hadn't seen it anywhere else.
3. A rather fine 'dandelion' growing alongside the main Bernina Pass road - I think that it's Leontodon pyrenaicus helveticus.
4. There were many Pedicularis in flower, looking as colourful as many orchids. This one I have as Pedicularis verticillata.
5. Phyteuma scheuchzeri
6. Sempervivum montanum
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7. Still not having crossed the river and entered the Val da Fain, I was in the shadow of the Bernina group, and the cool air was limiting the ability of many insects to move around. I have come across these shiny green beetles before in the Alps, I've provisionally idientifed them as Chrysolina coerulans. The individual on the left is female - the abdomen is swollen with eggs. Looks most uncomfortable.
8. Zygaena filipendulae, known in English as the six-spot burnet moth.
9. A Rhinanthus sp, possibly Rhinanthus antiquus, but unfortunately the flowers aren't open. If anyone could confirm my identification of this I'd be grateful. R. anitiquus is not common in Switzerland, but does occur in this general area.
10 and 11. We're now finally in the Val da Fain, first of the orchids, Nigritella nigra - I think. There were both Nigritella nigra and N. rubra in the area - this seems to show he classical dark flowers and narrow lip. I'll come to some later that are less obviously one or the other.
12 and 13. Trifolium alpinum. T. alpinum was one of my favourite plants of the trip (yes, I know it's 'only' a clover, but the delicacy of the markings on the petals was superb).
More to follow tomorrow from day 6 - it's getting late, and I don't want to make any more mistakes ;)
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Some amazing plants in here. Too many to comment on. The Daphne striata stood out for me.... not a species I know. Lovely little thing.
Thanks for all the wonderful pics.
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Good to see that you're back on track Peter !
I'll be watching this space ! 8)
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Good to see that you're back on track Peter !
Thanks Luc, it's good to be back. You never realise how much you use a computer until it's broken!
To continue with day 6.....
14 and 15. Still lots of Pedicularis verticillata at the lower end of the valley. The peak in the background of the second picture is Piz Alv (which apparently means 'white peak' in the local Romansch dialect) - it certainly is strikingly different from the surrounding peaks, both in shape and colour.
16. Quite low down the valley, before leaving the upper limit of the fenced pastures, was a wet meadow on the left of the track that Julia had said I musn't miss. It was stuffed full of orchids and other plants. A very wet area, taking drainage from the (granite?) hillside above; the only dry areas were occupied by ant's nests, and yes, I kneeled in a few. This picture of Gymnadenia albida sorry, I've previously called this Pseudorchis albida, these ****** taxonomists!(small white orchid) gives an idea of the surrounding area also.
17. It was wet, so there were Pinguiculas - Pinguicula leptoceras
18. The fragrant orchid, Gymnadenia conopsea
19. Close up of Pinguicula leptoceras
20. and Gentiana verna.
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More super images, Peter.
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Peter,
I love the orchids, they're beauties. The Pinguicula though is gorgeous!! :o
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Thanks for the kind comments - it gives me the encouragement I need to continue this marathon travelogue!
21. You can see how far I've come in over two hours - this is looking back at the Diavolezza chairlift area. The railway station and bottom of the chailift are just off the picture to the left. Note also the sunshine, it did not last... :'(
22, 23 and 24. This dactylorhiza I've decided to call Dactylorhiza cruenta; not common in Switzerland, but does occur in this area. Apparently one of the diagnostic features is the spotting on the underside of the leaves. Of course this area does not show on any of my photographs, so I've had to go on other diagnostic features, such as the stout stalk flushed with the flower colour and the dense infloresence (if only I had known what to look for at the time). Scandinavian internet sites, and the Harraps' guide to British orchids, have cruenta as a subspecies of Dactylorhiza incarnata, but the photogrpahs associated with these sources show a much paler flowered and less robust orchid. Flora Helvetica and Grey-Wilson's alpine flower handbook list it as a separate species and I'm with them on this one ;). I've provided all the photographic evidence I have of this plant (there were, as I recall, only a couple of them in the aforementioned wet meadow, but they really stood out at the time), so if anyone would like to shoot down my hypothesis in flames, fire away!
25 and 26. Another orchid conundrum. Both these Nigritellas have a broad lip to the individual flowers, so should be Nigritella rubra, but the first one has the dark colour of Nigritella niger. Assuming that the flower colour is variable (which it is), then I tried to find out the variations within each species - no luck. Also, as the lower lip of the flower is consistently mentioned in most sources as being broader in N. rubra, I hunted for something a little more precise to venture a postive identification, but without any luck here either. Does anyone have any better way of distinguishing between these species?
Of course there could be hybridiastion involved..., we came across some hybrids the next day.
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27. Looking up the Val da Fain (sun still shining), with Piz Alv on the right. Apparently a lot of the good plants are around the corner to the right at the head of the valley. A monsoon-like downpour and thunderstorm a couple of hours later conspried to prevent me getting there, oh well, there's always next time ;)
28. Another view of one of the Dactylorhiza cruenta plants. The underside of the leaves that are visible do not show any spotting (there is some showing through the leaves. This may invalidate my identification :-[
29. Something a little less controversial. At this point in the valley, the left-hand (northern, acidic rock) side of the valley, was a sheet of Rhododendron ferrugineum.
30. Ajuga pyramidalis growing right next to the path.
31. There had been some Primula farinosa further down the valley, but they were going over. Now better specimens began to appear alongside the path.
32. One of the reasons for me walking up Val da Fain, and also for me carrying a ridiculously long telephoto lens all the way with me, was the fact that I read that there was a significant marmot population in the valley. This chap was sunning himself outside his burrow, no doubt laughing at my attempts to stalk him. This was the best (marmot) shot of the day, and is cropped from a larger image. I managed to better ones on day 8.
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33. Whilst scrambling up a gulley to get closer to the marmot, I came across lots of Primula farinosa, in excellent condition; here with Bartsia alpina.
35. Primula farinosa
35. Bartsia alpina
36. Still finding Pinguicula leptoceras further up the valley
37. This Gentiana acaulis is true to the natural colour, it had a slightly smoky-purple cast to the blue of the flowers, which I found rather attractive.
38. Another shot of the pretty clover, Trifolium alpinum. I wonder if it would keep compact in cultivation in a lean mix?
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Great thread Peter. I've, for some reason, not spotted this thread before. You've reinforced my opinion that the Arabba area Eritrichium nanum is not a good colour form
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39. You may have noticed that the last few pictures looked decidedly less sunny. The weather had deteriorated, as can be seen in this view down the valley, but I pressed on a little to where I was told the main party had had seen two Traunsteinera globosa a few days before: no orchids, many cows :-\
40 and 41. All was not lost. Whilst having a very late lunch at the seat at this spot, I realised I was looking at Sempervivum wulfenii, which I had not expected to find this far down the valley, it was mentioned in my walking guide, no less, as one of the specialties of the valley. These photographs were taken in a little light drizzle, unfortunately the yellow flowers were not quite open.
42. By the time I took this picture of Campaula barbata, a serious downpour was beginning, but it can be difficult to find good specimens of this plant to photograph, so it was worth the effort (I think). Also the thunder was beginning to rattle around the hills above me and therefore I decided to retreat, hastily. During the two mile walk down the valley I became so wet that I didn't dare to sit down on the train to Pontresina in case I was accused of ruining the seats. Needless to say, no more photographs were taken until the next day when all my equipement had dried out.
Day 7 to follow.
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the Arabba area Eritrichium nanum is not a good colour form
You have to remember, Martin, I'm only showing you the best plants, and the one on Piz Nair I tidied up with a pair of tweezers to remove debris first! ::)
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I know your photographic skills are better than mine Peter, now I know why. I a) haven't got enough patience and b) wouldn't even dream of carrying tweezers when I'm out in the hills ??? That's photographic passion!!!!!
I've got this terrible vision of you sitting on some windswept ridge, in a snowstorm, with a mirror in one hand plucking your eyebrows.......and I can't even find an appropriate emoticon to express it!
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These tweezers are part of a bit of Swiss military hardware (clue, it's red, and also has a toothpick, corkscrew, and couple of sharp things) ;D
Besides, I wouldn't pluck my eyebrows, they're some of the few remaining black hairs I possess! (see photo to left)
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;D ;D
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These tweezers are part of a bit of Swiss military hardware (clue, it's red, and also has a toothpick, corkscrew, and couple of sharp things)
The sharp things are to extract one's fingers from a marmot's mouth. Then, of course, the marmot can borrow the toothpick. :D
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Beware, killer marmots at large!
(Actually a sneak preview of day 8 )
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They do look like they're a bit on the warpath, don't they! :o Another family of marmots invading their territory? Do we have "Marmot Wars : Nature in Action" coming soon to these pages? ;)
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Fortunately, there was another marmot involved in a territorial fight, but I'll come to that later.....
If they gave that look to humans, then we would need to be afraid, very afraid :o
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wonderful plants, views and photos, peter!
what could be more perfect than the stunning Eritrichium in a nearly 'barren' alpine view of stone and sky?
also great to see the semps!