Scottish Rock Garden Club Forum
Seedy Subjects! => Grow From Seed => Topic started by: Paul T on March 22, 2009, 07:45:42 AM
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Howdy All,
Last year I received some seed of Lewisia cotyledon from a lovely gentleman from here on the forums (names won't be mentioned without permission). Not having grown them much before that I was not expecting wonderful success I must admit I sowed it and have left it to it's own devices. Imagine my surprise when I discovered this lovely little flower on the seed pot. I hadn't even realised there were buds, let alone flowers about to open. Not at all sure what to do now with them, and at what time of year I should take them out into separate pots. I'm not quite game to mess with them now, in case I stop them being so happy. ;D
Anyway, a delightful little flower, and a lovely colour.
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What a treat for you to come upon the flower unexpectedly ...... I love it when it happens that a young plant will surprise you like that.
Sunshine colours too!
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Maggi,
I sowed about a squillion seeds into each of the two 5 inch black plastic pots, covered with gravel like I would bulb seed, and left them alone. They germinated well (but not every one of the squillions, which is probably a good thing), have lots of nice rosettes, and this lovely flower with 3 or 4 buds sitting behind it. Should I try to prick them out during winter into their own pots?
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Paul, I hesitate to comment on that since your climate is so different from ours. I'd wait for the advice of Michael C. .....he's one ofthe best lewisia growers I know 8)
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Hi Paul !
Long time no reed !! ;D
Before Michael maybe gives us his view, here's what I normally do.
I sow in January (which would be your July I guess) and they'd normally germinate in March/April - I'd the prick them as soon as they have 4 leaves and they grow away happily.
It has occurred though (being caught by lack of time) that some were left in their seed pots and pricked only the next early Spring (being already pretty big by that time)... but even under these circumstances most of them took off really well...
Wonder what Michael's comment will be.
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Paul, Lewisia cotyledon seed are usually sown late winter -early spring and potted on when big enough to handle. As it is Autumn with you now I would them in the seed pot until spring, Then pot them into very well drained compost. Keep them in a cold frame over winter as it is wet and bad drainage that they don't like. If your winters are dry they will be fine outside as they are fully hardy. I have them growing in a scree bed here in one of the highest rainfall area in Europe,but the drainage is excellent.
If you have Lewisia rediviva or any rediviva hybs they are potted in September here(Please adjust you seasons accordingly ) and watered once,then just kept ticking over with little or no water until you see new growth in spring,then apply plenty of water and feed.they are gross feeders. Lewisia Brachycalyx and hybs are potted in October then treated the same as rediviva.
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So does the L. cotyledon go dormant in winter? I have barely grown any Lewisia before, which is why I am even more excited. ;D
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Paul,they are evergreen but keep their foliage an rest for the winter. I have had them flower until Christmas here ,but really depends on your climate. Better to try and rest them if you can,just withhold water and they will go to sleep. They can tolerate very dry conditions in the winter so if in doubt don't water. Another thing I must mention, If the temperate goes over 30c in the summer don't water,high temperatures and high humidity are lethal,try and keep them shaded and as cool as possible. In your climate they will need as much shade as you can provide in Summer. Don't water in the spring until you see new growth.
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In general, I'd support all Michael's comments. Don't water them in winter and leave potting separately until the spring as they're not likely to make new roots much from now on. They're pretty tough really but don't like unused water round relatively dormant roots. They should remain nice and green and glossy right through winter.
The shading in high summer is good advice too. My late mother grew superb Lewisia cotyledon under a summer mat of chickweed! This was cleared away in autumn and the spring blooming was always outstanding. You should try them out in the garden with shading in summer after the flowers stop. They like a gravel path to seed into too. :)
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Thanks for the advice everyone. So what sort of feeding should I be giving them?
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Lovely surprise Paul, can you remember when you sowed the seed?
I'd like to have an idea of how long they take from germination to flowering. :)
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Thanks for the advice everyone. So what sort of feeding should I be giving them?
Paul,I usually give them one high nitrogen feed when they start to grow in the spring, then resort to tomato feed once a week, or every other week depending on how well they are growing,or when they need watering.
For some reason they don't seem to like crockery pots,but be careful with watering plastic pots,and don't worry, they won't ever die of drought,it is water that kills them.
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If the seed is sown in spring and the young plants are potted up or planted out summer or early autumn, they should flower in the next spring, i.e. about a year from germination. In my climate anyway. :)
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If the seed is sown in spring and the young plants are potted up or planted out summer or early autumn, they should flower in the next spring, i.e. about a year from germination. In my climate anyway. :)
Thanks Lesley, I wonder if the seeds are started indoors during winter they might flower in Spring, or do you think they need a dormant period to flower?
As you probably tell, I've never grown any, in fact I'm not sure I have even seen one in reality. :-[
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Helen, what Lesley described is the general norm for perennials - blooming in "the second year" (i.e. after one "dormant" period).
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Helen, what Lesley described is the general norm for perennials - blooming in "the second year" (i.e. after one "dormant" period).
Lori, Just off the top of my head I can think of some perennials that will flower first season from seed, including some delphiniums, hardy geraniums and poppies. ;)
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I don't think Lewisias in general need a "dormant" period before flowering, it's just a matter of having enough time to grow to the right size. I'd be surprised if they flowered in spring if sown the immediately preceeding winter but I never sow anything in winter and never under lights, so you'd have to try to see.
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I got some lewisia cotyledon seed from the SRGC seedex in January 2008, it germinated immediately outside (mild Winter here of course) and one or two flowered at the end of August 2008.
I got around 80 plants, so those that flowered were quite rare.
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I got some lewisia cotyledon seed from the SRGC seedex in January 2008, it germinated immediately outside (mild Winter here of course) and one or two flowered at the end of August 2008.
I got around 80 plants, so those that flowered were quite rare.
I have exactly the same experience with sown Lewisia cot...
sown in January - germinated in March/April - potted on in May/early June - some (few) will flower in September, but the lot surely the following Spring !
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I don't think Lewisias in general need a "dormant" period before flowering, it's just a matter of having enough time to grow to the right size. I'd be surprised if they flowered in spring if sown the immediately preceeding winter but I never sow anything in winter and never under lights, so you'd have to try to see.
Lesley, I fiddle with seeds indoors all winter, is lots of fun and helps make the long winter more bearable.
After seeing David and Luc's comments I think I will look for some seed in this year's seed exchange, one more new plant to try ;)
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You won't regret it Helen !!
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You won't regret it Helen !!
I just need to remember, Luc.
Think it might be a good idea to start a list now .
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Yes, Helen, one can always find a exceptions to generalities, depending also on when the seeds were started. (To my mild disappointment, I've also had the odd one go the other way, taking 3 or 4 years to bloom from seed... yikes!) I imagine the main factor is that the season outdoors - here, at least- is much shorter than for many of the other posters on this forum... when I start perennials indoors in Jan-Mar, then move them outdoors for planting, I don't get many at all that bloom in the first year, oh well.
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here, at least- is much shorter for many of the other posters on this forum...
Am starting to think your season is longer than mine :'( :'( :'(
Zones do not make sense to me. ??? ??? ???
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Oooops, I just realized I had a typo in there which I have now corrected (to say, "our season is much shorter than for many of the other posters") but I think you understood my intent anyway!
P.S. A delightful exception to my usual observation was that, last year, Petrocoptis pyrenaica ssp. glaucifolia bloomed in the house under the lights, in about 3 months from seed! But... will it be hardy here??
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Howdy All,
I thought I'd add this to the existing topic (I've modified the topic name slightly, as I've made this a bit wider now than just Lewisia cotyledon). I've sown more Lewisia this year, this time a few different species. Those sown in April are already well up, while those sown in around June have been a bit slower in their response. I'm amazed at just how different the leaves of the different species are, so I have photos of 4 species to show anyone who is interested..... Lewisias tweedyi, nevadensis, brachycalyx and rediviva. All have quite different thickness or texture to the leaves (particularly the tweedyi, which are much broader and thinner than the others), more so than it appears in the pictures.
These seedlings all exist thanks to the generosity of a friend from the SRGC who sent the seed to me. The later seedlings I mentioned are from yet another of our SRGCers. Thanks guys!! 8)
Enjoy.
Please click on the pic for a larger version.
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Thanks, Paul; I do think it useful to see pictures like these.... it is all very well to get excited about wonderful pix of mature flowering plants.... and who doesn't enjoy that?!! .......but it is very instructive for beginners to see what seedlings look like.... it helps them know if they have the right thing..... saves accidental weeding of precious babies!!.... and gives an idea of how much development can be expected over a given period.
Thanks!! 8)
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Maggi,
I'll photograph some of the young cotyledon seedlings I have coming along now as well. That shows them when they are small, instead of these ones which were larger. I guess I should really be pricking these larger ones out into individual pots by now, shouldn't I! ::) I never seem to get anything done at home. I'm the perfect procrastinator!! ;D
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Excellent idea, Paul, for further pix.
Have to disagree with your claiming of perfect procrastinator title.... in truth I am the world record holder in all aspects of procrastination.... except one.........."never leave till tomorrow some chocolate which could be eaten today" ::) :P ;D
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I've got you both beat on that score (and not very proud of it!)...but that's another topic entirely...
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I've got you both beat on that score (and not very proud of it!)...but that's another topic entirely...
Perhaps we don't need a topic so much as a self-help group, Carlo? :-\ We could discuss the matter..... later :(
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Thanks, Paul; I do think it useful to see pictures like these.... it is all very well to get excited about wonderful pix of mature flowering plants.... and who doesn't enjoy that?!! .......but it is very instructive for beginners to see what seedlings look like.... it helps them know if they have the right thing..... saves accidental weeding of precious babies!!.... and gives an idea of how much development can be expected over a given period.
Thanks!! 8)
Being one of the beginners, I agree with maggi 100%.
Thanks Paul.
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I've got you both beat on that score (and not very proud of it!)...but that's another topic entirely...
ha!--lots of competition on that claim to shame! i could tell you embarrassing tales of how long certain succulents can live while waiting to be potted...
paul--great batch of seedlings! we talked some time ago about lewisias a bit, i still havent got any seed, but not worried as i have a bazillion things to start...lol
will be interested to see how yours develop; definitely the different leaves are part of the appeal--actually, a major part, as i come to them as succulents rather than 'garden flowers'--many of the hybrids look too soft and cabbagey for my tastes, i prefer the tougher looking species..
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Paul T
Found your pictures very interesting. I think I go wrong not knowing when to start the seeds and if they need a cold period first. Find this sort of post really helpful. I am going to try harder with seeds and I agree with Maggi these posts are so much help to us beginners. I can certainly say that I am learning so much from everyone, Thanks. :)
Maggi
I have never heard this saying before " never leave till tomorrow some chocolate which could be eaten today"
So the half cake of chocolate that I put away for another day is now gone, Thanks Maggi I learn so much from you ;D.
Angie :)
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Angie, I am glad to be of service.... but perhaps my advice in such matters is not the best around.... just the largest a-round! ;D ;D ;)
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Angie,
As I learnt from one of the species, if you wait long enough they come up anyway. Last year I sowed cotyledon and another species (my mind has just gone blank and I can't remember which one) and while the cotyledon germinated the first season, the other one waited a complete year later before doing so. They obviously have the certain time of year that they germinate, and if they don't then they'll wait until the same time next year. So just sow the seed and if they need to wait a bit longer they will. ;D Good luck with germination.
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Thanks Paul I am going to seeds a go, I have really picked up a lot of tips on this forum. I have a few Lewisia seedlings but they seeded themselves in my sand plunge bed ;D. I have collected seeds from my intersectional peonies so hopefully I will have some luck with them.
Angie :)
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Angie,
Good luck with the intersectional Paeonia. I've seen a couple of intersectionals here in Australia in a private collection (they aren't commercially available) and they're stunning!! It will be interesting to see what your seed produces, and whether they throw back in any particular direction to the parents of your intersectional plants. 8)
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Hi Paul
Never thought about that. I think you are right, I will be happy just to get any seeds growing like I have said before the only seeds I succeed with is Meconopsis and I have too many now but still collecting there seeds, cant throw anything away. We have a good stockist of Int, peonies in Scotland and I find them better to grow in our wet climate.
Do your Lewisia come true to the parent plant.
Angie :)
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Angie,
Highly doubtful that all my Lewisia will look like the parent plant, given that there is so much breeding for different colours. The only way you can get mostly the same as the parent is via species (and even that can be quite variable depending what you're talking about) or through line breeding, which is where the seedlings that look like the parent are bred together, and then the seedlings of those that are the same as the parents are bred together..... eventually you end up with a seed strain where you're going to get seedlings that look like the parents because the other factors have been selected out. In the case of my Lewisias.... I'm hoping that all the seed lots don't produce the same thing within each. I'd like the variability in colours etc, as I don't need "particular" colours for my collection (i.e I am not after that one red that I don't have, I'm happy with pretty much anything). I'm hoping for a range of colours from all of them. 8)
And do you HAVE to keep reminding me that Meconopsis are a weed for you. ::) ;D ;D One mans weed is another mans treasure. ;) It just tickles me that Mecs can be weeds for anyone, although I realise that they would be in the right climate. Amusing how different all our situations are. 8)
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Paul
Sorry ;D Its true that what I dream about you can grow so easily but that's whats so good about this forum we get to see the plants we long for right here in our own homes, thanks to you overseas experts.
I too would be happy to produce any seedlings. I was at Maggi and Ian's garden the other day and I was scared to walk anywhere as there was so much seedlings everywhere especially cyclamen, I think I will SNEAK in one night with my little trowel and big bucket, don't tell :-X.
Angie :)
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Angie,
Just quietly, I think if you ask them nicely they'll most likely share some of the seedlings. No need to sneak in with a big bucket. ;D ;D ;)
It would be lovely to be able to just pop in for a visit at their garden. Such a nice idea. ::)
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Here is a pic of Lewisia cotyledon and I think it must be pretty true to the wild species. They are from some seed that David N. sent to me some months ago and of about 40, half are in flower while the others will wait for now. I'll plant out a little patch of 7-9. They're all the same and the seed may have been collected in the States by Ron Ratko.
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A word Paul if I may? I think you should pot up your tweedyis now, individually, and gradually harden them off before the summer gets too fierce. Unless you have a true alpine house (which seems to me to be cold rather than warm and if it has a gale from the north sea blowing right through from one end to the other, so much the better) these will be better outside than under cover. The others could be potted up as soon as their leaves wilt and begin to dry up or wait until autumn. Two, nevadensis and rediviva are deciduous and maybe brachycalyx too. (I never had that, any under that name were always nevadensis). These deciduous ones are, in my experience, easier to grow as they can be treated like bulbs once they die down, and they can be long-lived on that account whereas tweedyi, cotyledon can suddenly collapse for no obvious reason, but they're better the harder their growth is.
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As for colour, tweedyi is usually a peachy colour but can be pink or pure white or I believe there's a lemon form now too. They all come true from seed so whatever your benefactor sent you, that's what you'll get with little if any variation unless a selection was sent. Nevadensis and brachycalyx are both white thought there is a pink form of the former at least. If that was sent to you, it would probably have been labelled as such though. Redidiva can also be either white or pink. Mine were raised from seed and I got both colours in the packet (from AGS).
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The pics I have already shown were from seed from David N as well. Our Lewisia seed dealer if would seem. ;D The later ones did not though, and they did indeed include seed from the yellow tweedyi. Interesting that they seed true.
Now, if I have had cotyledon thriving in the covered shadehouse (by covered I mean plastic covered, open at the end but I can control watering, lots of heat and sun, not really that shady) for the last 18 months can I assume that the conditions will suit the tweedyi? I am well aware that I need to divide them all out into individual pots and have so far done so to the older cotyledons but haven't done the plants in the pics as yet. I have noticed that one of them is going very yellow at the moment, so I assume it is going into summer dormancy then? Should I be watering over summer, and if so is it just to keep them from completely drying out? Obviously those that are evergreen will need to be watered over summer, but I am unsure about the deciduous ones. I have cotyledons coming into bud at the moment as well.
Thanks very much for the lesson in what does what, Lesley. Very valuable information to me as I am still very much learning on the Lewisia front. Any further advice will be gratefully anticipated. 8)
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Hi Paul !
In my experience, both L. cotyledon and tweedyi don't like to be in the sun the whole day. I find that here (where the sun is far more clement than it is in Aus), they thrive best on East- or West oriented slopes, away from the midday sun. Out in the garden I never water them... but then again, out here they often suffer more from too much Summer rain than the opposite.
In my big pots (who are outside in Summer, but in the rain shade of a wall), I water sparingly - when dry, just once a week, and only at the rim of the pot.
I don't think any plant turning yellow is a good sign Paul ::) going dormant is (here) never that obvious... the leaves just seem to loose some vigour and become less firm in dry and warm periods - they regain their normal state if kept watered.
Under normal conditions cotyledon and tweedyi rosettes tend to have only the oldest leaves (at the bottom) turn yellow and brown, before they wither and dry up.
I never water the deciduous Lewi's when dormant during Summer.
Not until they need to get out of dormancy anyway, which is early Autumn for L. rediviva, when they get one or two waterings and after that, they are kept dry again for Winter.
Hope this helps !
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Thanks Luc. The yellowing of the leaves I took as a sign that was a bit too hot, so I have moved it into more shade and lower down in the shelves where it is cooler. I'll see what happens with it. The cotyledons are doing well for me so far in the position they're in, coming into flower quite rapidly now on some of the seedlings. They're in the same spot that their seed pot was in last year through summer, so I am figuring that individually potted they are going to be even happier. They aren't in full sun, in that it is shade cloth woven into plastic, but it isn't heavy shadecloth, just quite light. I will experiment with the various species and hope they do OK. Thanks for the advice.
Now your little younger ones I have pics to post when I get them prepared. I've had a few cotyledons and columbiana seed germinate from yours so far, but I think it was around July when I got them from you, so they may not have had enough winter to get many of them started this spring. There's been a couple in a couple of pots of cotyledon, but no "mass germination" (if you know what I mean). As these are younger I have kept them a bit more shaded than the older ones, as I did in spring for those last year, then moved them out into more light as I noticed them starting to etiolate at one point. Once they got to the place I have them now they stopped etiolating, so I'm working on the assumption that for the cotyledon at least that is the right spot. The deciduous species of course are going to be a whole 'nother learning curve!! :o
Thanks again.
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Paul,here is my tuppence worth.
Do, not water any Lewisias when the temp goes over 25c, that spells disaster, they close down when it gets too hot and will rot if you water them then.
All Lewisias like some shade from the midday sun.
They can all take full sun from September until March here, Northern hemisphere.(adjust accordingly for your area)
Rediviva can take full sun until they die back, then shade and keep dry until October when you can report.Water after potting on and then leave until growth starts in spring when they need lots of water.
Brachycalyx and Nevadensis same as Rediviva.
Rediviva,brachycalyx,and Nevadensis seed should be sown in October.
Cotyledon seed should sown in the spring and kept growing and potted on when required all summer,and always shaded,you should have flowers late summer.
Pygmaea and all that group,the same as cotyledon.
Tweedii should be sown late winter and kept growing and shaded all summer and potted on without disturbing the roots, this one is unforgiving if you water it when the temperature in high.
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Michael,
Far more valuable than a tuppence! Far more!! Thank you kindly for the info. Here at least the cotyledons last year were fine with watering all summer, and in the covered shadehouse the temps would get to 40 in summer on regular occasions, in fact probably 45'C or more on a hot day (bear in mind a hot day for us is approaching 40'C anyway). I didn't know not to water them when hot and I didn't lose a single one. I wonder if growing them from seed in my conditions has changed the temp requirements a bit? We here at the moment in only latish spring are already forecast 33'C today and tomorrow, so no watering above 25'C would mean that they didn't get water for 6 months or more (literally). I have buds forming now on cotyledons, with the first flowers just starting to open on one of them. A friend of mine at our latest Horticultural Society spring show had a cotyledon in full flower on the show bench, and that was 3 weeks ago. Obviously they behave a little differently here, so I'll have to experiment a bit. At least I have plenty of cotyledon seedlings so losing a few while experimenting won't hurt.
It really makes me wonder how our hotter climate will be for them. The covered shadehouse at least lets me totally control watering, even if it is a lot hotter than they would be otherwise. This is going to be a fascinating learning experience. Thank you again so much for your detailed info.... it gives me a great base to work from. I have few enough seedlings of everything other than cotyledon that I will be adhering carefully to advice for them this year. Thanks.
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Paul, here is a method I used to protect the neck of the plant, especially the species which are more vulnerable. I pot the seedlings into a mixture of coarse grit and sand in a 6cm pot. When the roots start to show through the bottom I then double pot them ( put the pot into another pot without removing the plant from it) into a 1ltr pot in a very gritty compost, about 60% grit and sand. leave top of the the 6cm pot about 2cm above the compost and only water the outer pot. that way water never gets at the neck of the plant. When planting put in a raised bed I just plant the 6cm pot into the bed without without removing it,then cover it with some small stones. This has worked well for me.
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Great tips, Michael! 8)
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You couldn't get better advice Paul than from Michael and Luc. I agree with all they've said, even for hotter SH conditions. The best plants my mother ever grew of L. cotyledon, were covered most of the year with a layer of chickweed which kept them cool and a little damp. She pulled it aside each spring, potted a few of the brilliant forms and took them to the local show. Then replanted them afterwards. And the best plants I've seen in NZ of L. tweedyi were grown in tall field tiles, in the shade of a quince tree. They were flourishing.
Luc is right too about the dying down seedlings not yellowing. Here is a pic of seedlings of L. rediviva, Ratko seed. They are going limp and collapsing, beginning to shrivel but there's no sign of yellowing. I'll pot these as soon as they show some new growth in late summer.
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Paul, I am only able to speak of my conditions, you would have a lot less humidity there than we have here, so any water would evaporate very quickly with you high temperatures. If you can keep the neck of the plant dry and water them from the bottom you may well get away with more water at the higher temperatures. It definitely does not work here though. If you think they are getting too dessicated cover them with wet newspapers at night instead of watering them. That should freshen them up until you get cooler weather. In their native habitat the best plants are always growing in a sheltered site,shaded from the sun for most if not all of the day.
Why don't you grow some of my hybrids? ;D they are almost waterproof and grow outside here all winter ;D ;D ;D
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I noticed on the TV weather forecast last night that SE Australia is already having temps in the 30s and summer hasn't started yet. :o
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Paul was telling me that 33 degrees was forcast for h his area today and tomorrow, Lesley.... it's a wonder he can grow half the stuff he has in that garden of his in those temperatures!
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I do agree Maggi. It's that combo of quite cold (down to -8) in winter and the hot, hot summer that makes it so different. I read somewhere that plant growth stops altogether once the temp raches 24C or it may have been 26. Above that, the leaves and roots start to cook, literally.
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Lesley,
In some things!! If it happened for all plants they we would never have anything flower here during summer. Summer growing plants must stay active in hotter weather, unless something else causes flowering without them being "active". I know I read the same thing about 24'C recently, but I think that was in relation to a particular type of plant (which for the life of me I can't remember).
Michael,
Are your hybrids available here in Aus? I have rarely ever seen Lewisias here, which is why I have started growing them from seed after I caught the Lewisia bug. I recall some of your pics and the range of colours is amazing!! :o :o
Maggi,
33'C is warm for now, and we shouldn't really be having long spells of it at this time of year. All this week is looking terrible from that point of view, just in time for our last spring Horticultural Society Show this weekend! ::) It will wreck a lot of flowers, and push so many of the roses well over their best. The heat now doesn't bode well for our summer this year. :-\
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I think it was temperate plants Paul.
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So, how many seasons would it take, normally, for L. nevadensis to go from seed to bloom?
I lost the original L. nevadensis 'Rosea' I had in a trough after a few years, but it was clear the next spring that it had seeded itself. However, I've still not seen flowers in, I dunno, maybe 3 years? That seems to be getting on a bit, isn't it? The attached photo is from last summer; the lewisia seedlings are to the left of the pulsatilla.
EDIT: Oops, disregard the species name on the photo. (I've just gone back and corrected it in my photo records.)
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Lori, Nevadensis rosea is not a strong plant, I always found it to be a weak grower and incline to disappear after a year or two . The white form should flower in the second year from seed, and if you can get the Bernadina form it is a good grower and has nice big flowers that are not puckered like the normal one that is usually available.
I should have seed next year if you are interested
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I'm very fond of L. rediviva x pygmaea (or maybe it's the other way about) but lost it about 5 years ago. Was pleased therefore to find a seedling a couple of days ago. Not flowering yet but should do, soon. It comes true from seed.
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Thank you very much for the kind offer, Michael - that sounds wonderful, and I would be interested in trying it later on if you collect seed.
I didn't noticed puckering of the flowers on mine (assuming it was labelled correctly), but then my eye is not too discerning, nor do I have great numbers of others to compare to!
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I don't know how do you make the cotyledons to flower in the second (or even first!) season after sowing. I have some seedlings sown in Spring 2008 (from forumists too). They are potted separately and growing well, but no flowers as yet.
We also have very hot summers, almost like Paul, and I watered them from the bottom once in two weeks, that seemed good for them. They look healthy, green and shiny, I hope very much they will flower next year for me. Maybe I should give them more potash in spring...
I had one, which began to go yellow (the younger leaves). I did not give him any more water, and in two months it looked again healthy with new green leaves! :)
Anyway, the cotyledon hybrids have appeard finally in Hungary too. There is a man, who is selling many beautiful colors on plant sales. I bought from him two this May, one of them in an 1l pot, and it flowered for me all summer, yesterday I found a new scape full of buds. :o It is outside of course.
In 2008 I've sown also L. tweedyi, rediviva and oppositifolia, but they germinated only this spring. The L. rediviva and oppositifolia went dormant for summer, but until now only the rediviva has new growth. Nor the L. brachycalix - sown in January 2009 and germinated in spring - has shown any signs of life yet. I only hope they are alive, I didn't dare to look in the pots ::)
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Hi Katherine !
I don't see any reason why your L. cotyledon wouldn't flower next year. Just remember they are gross feeders and will appreciate yearly repotting (I do that in late February, when they are just starting new growth) or at least some good fertilizer - I tend to feed them with pellets of dried cow manure, bone meal and a little potash.
By the way, it is not unusual at all for young plants to flower twice or even three times in one season... once a bit older they normally stick to their one flowering per season regime.
Good luck !
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Katherine, the Brachycalyx should have little green shoots in the centre if you look closely,tip them out of the pot now and pot them on separately and give them some water to start them into growth,them keep them just moist until you see a flush of growth in the spring, feed them then every two weeks. don't worry about the Oppositifolia until Spring,but keep them just moist,then do the same as for the Brachycalyx. As to your Cotyledon not flowering,they are gross feeders and need lots of feed when they are in full growth, feed them with high nitrogen when they start to grow and then switch to Tomato feed every week.
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Thank You Michael, and Luc, I think I was a little lazy with feeding them...
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Yes!!! I see the green shoots on the brachycalyx!!! Thank You, Michael!!!
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To reassure those of you who were concerned about yellowing of leaves on some of my seedlings...... I've moved them to a more shaded bench, lower down in the covered shadehouse and they're now back to green, albeit still fairly pale. It was obviously just too much heat. 8)
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Paul,
What kind of grit is that on Your seedlings?
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Katherine,
I use 3-5mm gravel on all my bulb seedlings. I've tried it on non-bulbous stuff and it seems to work well as well. It keeps the surface a little insulated from heat and dry. This particular type is my favourite as I like the white (shows off the new seedlings quite well! ;D). I think it is predominantly quartz. It is ornamental gravel for use with cacti and succulents. Unfortunately only available here in 1 or 2kg bags, so expensive, but I really like it.
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Thank goodness we can buy various grits by the cubic metre if we want to.
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I can't easily here. I used to be able to get bigger amounts of ornamental gravel from one place, but they no longer exist. The other alternative is aquarium stores, but I find that the stuff they sell is dirty and far less uniform than these cacti gravels.
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I asked only because I thought it had some lime content, and I wondered if the Lewisias do like it. But quartz has nothing to do with limestone ... I think.
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I "think" it is quartz? I've always assumed it was. I could very easily be wrong though.
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I sowed seeds of Lewisia tweedyi 5 weeks ago and they have been kept moist at 5c. Should they sprout in the cold or moved to some warmth?
johnw
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John,
I sowed them at the end of March 2008 in 5 °C, then left them outside all year round and germinated next spring (after about 11 months and 2 weeks)...
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John, the books say the best time to sow Lewisia seed is in the Autumn and that seed sown after the new year will not germinate for a further year (of course your seeds will not have read this!). They should be hardy to around -5C but need to be kept cool and moist.
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Tweedyi - small data sample. From seedex 08/09, I got one to germinate with GA3 in Spring 09, the remainder have germinated this Winter. So a cold germinator, perhaps even warm to cold transition germinator.
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Thanks all. I'll sit it out and follow the recommendations.
johnw
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I normally sow mine in January - pots outside protected from too much wet but open to frost - they normally germinate without problems late March and/or April.