Scottish Rock Garden Club Forum
Specific Families and Genera => Amaryllidaceae => Topic started by: Hans J on May 15, 2008, 07:48:55 PM
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Hi all ,
Today has flowered here for the first time a self sowing plant from year 2005:
Hippeastrum striatum
Greetings
Hans
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Hans, I knew you are great!
Ciao
Alberto
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::) Grazie Alberto ::)
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Is it usual for such a plant to take only three years to flower from seed? It seems fast!
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Maggi :
Yes it is unusual fast - I have other seedlings from this batch -there is no sign of flowering .
I give this plant every day a portion of TLC ;D
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Today has flowered here for the first time a self sowing plant from year 2005:
Hippeastrum striatum
Greetings
Hans
Hans - This looks very much like one we grew as a gift seedling. The flower stems are about 50cm at most. If regularly watered and potted on it blooms 4 to 6 times a year which we thought was quite remarkable. Does yours behave the same?
H. elwesii from Grimshaw seed bloomed here in under 2 years as well. A lovely dwarf species, one a nice pale yellow and the other apricot.
A friend bloomed a Smithers Nerine hybrid from seed in 14 months. I was astounded but the flower was not worth keeping.
johnw
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John :
My plant is raised from seeds ex Brasil -the stem is only 22 cm high - this is the first time flowering .
Hipp. elwesii must be a wrong name -it is Rhodophiala elwesii ....but I have also seen Zephyranthes / Habranthus with this name -there must be a lot of confusion .
I have ealier sown seeds from AGS,NARGS,SRGC named as Rhodophiala -the most was wrong named - mostly it was Habranthus tubispathus .....
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It must be the shock of 20c today as I made several mistakes.
The H. elwesii came from Harry Jans as seed in 1996, sprouted in 1997 and bloomed in just under 5 years - my mistakes. Thankfully I have a good inventory on the computer that frequently makes me a liar.
Harry says: "My plants are grown from seed too and and it took me a long time to flower it. My original seeds came many years ago from Gothenburg Bot. Garden. It is a very nice plant, and I still have it. (It is not very hardy! but can
stand a few degrees of frost)".
Here is a picture of #1 from several years ago. What do you think it is?
I have the following Rhodophiala but have never had them bloom; long skinny bulbs. How do you grow them and get them to bloom? I have been shy with the fertilizer and mulch the long necks with gravel (in cool greenhouse).
Rhodophiala araucana cw - Archibald #95-144277
Rhodophiala advena - NARGS #97-5410
johnw
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Hi John ,
After my knowing is the plant on your pic a Rhodophiala !
Please look for the links and you will find there a lot of information :
http://www.bulbsociety.org/GALLERY_OF_THE_WORLDS_BULBS/GRAPHICS/Rhodophiala/Rhodophialalist.shtml
http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Rhodophiala
http://www.amaryllidaceae.org/Rhodophiala/index.htm
My seedlings of Rhodophiala are to small for flowering – from mature plants I have R. bifida + R.chilensis –they flowers regulary .
I have also seedlings of R.elwesii ( from AGS ) – but if you have anytime seeds of your plants I would be glad to swap with you .
Regards
Hans
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John ,
Before few minutes I have received from a nice friend following :
Rhodophiala has spathe bracts fused on one side, leaves flat adaxially, perigone funnelform, styma trifid or 3-lobed
Hippeastrum has spathe bracts free or shortly connate proximally, and leaves are more than >2 cm wide
I hope this will help you
Hans
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Hans - Thanks for your research, I will try to id the plants.
If they bloom this year I will certainly cross the two and/or self them and send you the seed. I can't check the date on the photo under properties but based on the 2 previous pictures my guess it should bloom very soon.
The leaves are indeed narrow - .4 to .5cm wide. I am having problems with the word styma, is it German for stigma? You say 3 lobed for Rhodophiala. If it is stigma then the picture shows 4 lobes. No sign of buds yet but they are always a surprise so must come quickly.
One year I crossed the Hippeastrum that looks like striatum with the H. (?) elwesii. Unfortunately I didn't grow the seed but seeds were produced. I gave some to a friend and I saw her seedlings several years ago which were tiny with almost hair-like leaves. I phoned her today and she may still have a few but also may have them mixed with the striatum-look-alike open-pollinated seedlings at this point. Of course of this cross is impossible it may very well have been selfed seed.
johnw
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John :
Sorry -But I can say nothing to this definition of my friend .
The german word for stigma is "Narbe".
I suppose you mean mm or ? ( you write : narrow - 4 to 5 cm wide ) .....
Please let me know if you succsessful with pollination !
Best regards
Hans
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John :
Sorry -But I can say nothing to this definition of my friend .
The german word for stigma is "Narbe".
I suppose you mean mm or ? ( you write : narrow - 4 to 5 cm wide ) .....
Please let me know if you succsessful with pollination !
Best regards
Hans
Hans - Yes .4-.5cm (4-5mm)
I will let you know if I get blooms and seed.
If not I will be transplanting this summer and can send a bulb if they've split.
john
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Hans - This one here certainly looks like your H. striatum. I keep these fairly evenly moist aside from a bit of drying out bewteen waterings and they can bloom every 2 months throughout the year. The colour is a bit faded as it is almost over.
I thought it was going to be a miniature one when I got it!
johnw
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Sorry for contributing to this so late. Still slowly catching up on everything in the forums.....
Rhodophiala and Hippeastrum grow quite differently. While Hippeastrum grow as a bulb around the surface, Rhodophiala often bury themselves up to a foot down into the soil. You can easily grow Hippeastrum in a small pot while you'll virtually never flower Rhodophialas in anything but larger pots, and the bulbs usually end up migrating down to the bottom. R. bifida flowers for me here most years and I have a pink hybrid (bought as a pink bifida but it has up to 7 flowers per stem) that flowers religiously. Both these, plus a few different seedlings I have grown all have the elongated bulb as they are trying to push themselves deeper, but have a rounder bulb once they are down to a cool depth that they like.
Hopefully some of the above information is of some use, and if there is anything else I can provide just ask.
Another that looks like a "miniature hippeastrum" is Habranthus estensis, which I've posted pictures of a couple of colour forms of elsewhere in the forums.
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You can easily grow Hippeastrum in a small pot while you'll virtually never flower Rhodophialas in anything but larger pots, and the bulbs usually end up migrating down to the bottom. R. bifida flowers for me here most years and I have a pink hybrid (bought as a pink bifida but it has up to 7 flowers per stem) that flowers religiously. Both these, plus a few different seedlings I have grown all have the elongated bulb as they are trying to push themselves deeper, but have a rounder bulb once they are down to a cool depth that they like.
Paul, this is exactly the "behaviour" seen in bulbs like narcissus which "prefer" to be deep underground, isn't it? The bulbs are communicating by their shape what their preference is.... all goes to show we should study our plants closely and , more often thatn not, they'll "give us a clue" !! 8)
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Maggi,
Yep. In the Australian genus Calostemma it is particularly obvious..... when heading downwards the bulbs are long and thin and once they're at the requisite depth they are much more of a traditional "bulb" shape. I think that things like Scilla can do a bit of this too..... when settled they're big and round bulbs, but if migrating in teh soil they are considerably elongated.
In the Rhodophiala the bulb can pull itself down a LONG way, which is why I was mentioning it. I've dug down in an area of my garden where I planted R. bifida and at 8 inches down I still couldn't find them. Their leaves came up that season so they hadn't died, just dug themselves down. I'm hoping that once they're happy they'll flower properly as I didn't get a flower off the ones in the garden this year.
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My (very limited) experience with Rhodophiala is that they are best in pots because in the garden they just keep on going down whereas in a pot they reach the bottom and have to decide on something else to do - if you see what I mean. So they make roots until thoroughly pot-bound, then get on with flowering, very freely. When you need to divide, it's impossible to separate the bulbs but if you just break bits off the mass and replant, they seem to come to no harm.
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Nerines on the other hand, don't go down but climb up and over each other sending roots down and around other thick bulbs. In a few years the whole clump is above the ground, the bases of the top bulbs maybe 6 or 7 cms above the soil surface. They too, have to have chunks snapped off the clump, to divide.
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Hans - I see the first flower stalk coming up on the Rhodophiala elwesii so I will be able to make some selfed seed.
johnw
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Hi all ,
Today a other flowering plant :
Hippestrelia 'Red Beauty'
This is a cross between Sprekelia X Hippeatrum
Enjoy
Hans
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Very nice Hans.
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Thank you David ;D
I'm pleased that you like it more than Lionel Ritchie and the Commodores ::)
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Great pics Hans. Love the flower form and the wonderfully strong Sprekelia colour.
Out of interest, have you had seed from this, and if so have you grown it on to flowering? I have heard at times that the seed from these hybrids apparently grows true, which doesn't make sense to me. Being a primary hybrid between two genus I would have expected that it would throw back to both parents, but apparently the seed actually produces flowers the same as the parent. Have you (or anyone else reading this) sowed seed and flowered it? I'd be interested to hear of the results.
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Hans - A marvellous Red Beauty. We have tried Sprekelia and they flower the first year they come in from a warmer summer area and then refuse to bloom. I still have a few pots of them which, with the Lycoris radiata, will surely break a record shortly for not blooming.
Is Sprekelia itself a good flower for you? I assume the Red Beauty is a bit more generous with flowers.
A solitary Cypripedium reginae out here along with Lewisia rediviva Jolon's Strain and the late evergreen azaleas - Watchet, Verena. Az Michael Hill just starting to open.
johnw
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Paul :
This is the first time for that this plant has flowered ( I have bougth it before 4 years ) -I have now pollinate this flowers ( selfed ) -and I will let you know what happens .
John :
Spekelia I grow too - but it has flowered last year -in this year nothing .....
I suppose like you that Hippestrelia flowers a bit easier !
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Well, that makes me feel better, because my Spekelias haven't flowered this year-YET! Neither had Mick McLoughlin's when we last corresponded. Is there something going on in the Sprekelia world we should know about! ;D
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Sprekelias here love hot and dry in summer I think, with total neglect. Flower madly every year, but best if left to form a solid clump. I think they're a bit like Amaryllis belladonna that way, i.e prefer to be crowded. Best lot I ever had for flowering was in my old garden where they were in a place where they never got watered or cared for in the slightest. Baked themselves silly in summer and flowered their heads off as a result!!
Hans,
Good luck with the seeds. If you end up with seedlings like the parent you'll have a lot of material for trading I'd imagine. ;) That is a spectacular flower. I'm sure that there'll be SRGCers trading you things for bulbs of them left right and centre. ;D
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Paul, we don't do hot and dry Summers here in Devon but we do a lot of wet, muggy ones ;D
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How about cooking under glass David? Worth a little spot in the glasshouse?
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David,
No, I don't expect you do. ;) We do them very, very well here though. ::) Do you get enough sun to set up a covered bed outside or something, with glass overhead to keep it warmer and drier? Otherwise as Lesley suggests the glasshouse would help. The other possibility is to find a friend in a warm climate and send the bulbs to them for maturing each year, then returning them for flowering for you. yes it is cheating, but it would work very effectively I think. ;D
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But could one be bothered? :-\
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Therein lies the question. Depends on how much one wants the flowers. I grow most of my special stuff in pots, but a lot of people would feel they couldn't even be bothered doing that!! :o
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Mine are in pots under glass, maybe I kept it dry for too long this year. If they (I have two) don't flower next year I will stick them outside in the garden to fend for themselves, or die! ;D
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David, the Sprekelia finished flowering some weeks ago and now they will need
a period of at least 10 weeks as warm as possible.
I would put them under the table in the glasshouse and repot them in Sept.-Oct.
We discussed this whole teperature matter last winter in the Narcissus Topic, but I don't know
exactly when.
I hope our Forum Mother can find this discussion when you cannot find it.... ;D ;D
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Luit, are you saying that it is too late now for them to flower this year? If so I will do as you say. At what time of the year should I start to water them please?
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I hope our Forum Mother can find this discussion when you cannot find it....
alas, Luit, I cannot find it at the moment :-X :(
AHa! Later.... Luit found the place: Here is the place where we discussed this matter:
http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=1195.msg26873#msg26873
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Very interesting advices - thank you Luit !
Do you have maybe also suggestions for Chlidanthus fragrans ? ....a other 'bad' flowering plant .....
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I hope our Forum Mother can find this discussion when you cannot find it....
alas, Luit, I cannot find it at the moment :-X :(
I remember I discussed this matter with Gerd, maybe he knows when it was?
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I hope our Forum Mother can find this discussion when you cannot find it....
alas, Luit, I cannot find it at the moment :-X :(
I remember I discussed this matter with Gerd, maybe he knows when it was?
Luit,
I remember the discussion, which followed a pic with some of your Narcissus romieuxii (2007?) - but sorry, just as our FM, can't find it at the moment ??? ??? ???
Gerd
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Very interesting advices - thank you Luit !
Do you have maybe also suggestions for Chlidanthus fragrans ? ....a other 'bad' flowering plant .....
Hans, Chlidanthus comes from Peru, where I believe that the resting temps.
will not be decesive.
Here it will be more likely when plants, relatively new in culture and with a high
demand, there was not enough selection made of reliable flowering clones.
The only way could be trying to get new seeds from the original habitats and
then select by taking seeds from the best clones.
This might take many years, but will be the only way.
I remember that we tried to cultivate alpines which were according to literature
almost impossible to grow or propagate.
One of these 'must have' plants was Saponaria x olivana.
According to E. Wocke it was only to grow with the "sandwich" method,
otherwise almost impossible.
Now, after maybe 40 years, you can buy such plants in every Gardencenter.
Maybe I am totally wrong with my opinion.
In that case I did never write these words.... ;D :-X
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I hope our Forum Mother can find this discussion when you cannot find it....
alas, Luit, I cannot find it at the moment :-X :(
I remember I discussed this matter with Gerd, maybe he knows when it was?
Here is the place where we discussed this matter:
http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=1195.msg26873#msg26873 (http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=1195.msg26873#msg26873)
I can add that I this year took my bulbs inside just this week, but I think it will
work out the same way.
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Luit, many thanks for finding the place 8)
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David,
News on the Spreklia. I went to open the greenhouse this morning and noticed a flower spike on the Spreklia, so don't give up hope yet.
Cheers Mick
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Thanks Mick, I gave mine a high potash feed yesterday, good leaf growth but no flowere stem YET!
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I have the following Rhodophiala but have never had them bloom; long skinny bulbs. How do you grow them and get them to bloom? I have been shy with the fertilizer and mulch the long necks with gravel (in cool greenhouse).
Rhodophiala araucana cw - Archibald #95-144277
Rhodophiala advena - NARGS #97-5410
johnw
Hans - You may be interested ..... spotted today and what a wait. These will get selfed immediately. I notice the pot is bulging so the bulbs must no longer be skinny - a common age problem I guess.
johnw
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:o :o :o
John : first flowers after 12 years ?
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:o :o :o
John : first flowers after 12 years ?
Better late than never, eh? ;)
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Maggi ,
it is depending how old we are ::)
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Maggi ,
it is depending how old we are ::)
The late, great grower, Harold Esslemont, was still sowing frit seed in his eighties........ be brave, Hans, hope costs nothing! ;) 8) 8) :D
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That species flowered for me after about 5 years of neglect, and I specify neglect. It would have been quicker I'd think if it wasn't left to it's own devices in the seed pot for far too long! ::) BUT, that is in my case, and in my climate..... which does actually suit Rhodophiala rather well with it's hot and dry summers etc.
John,
I'll be interested to see what the flowers on yours end up looking like. The couple of mine that have flowered were quite variable, so it will be interesting to see what yours end up looking like. No idea whether mine were correct or not.
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Paul - It was a stinking hot day here. We got to 29-30c on the coast. I was 25 km inland where it was 34c and 5km beyond that I sped through an area at 38c. The Rhodophiala auracana seems to love it as the flower is progressing rapidly and already showing a good strong yellow. Impossible to get a sharp photograph.
Hans - I see a bud coming on the other Rhodophiala elwesii, a pale yellow which I will self. Its sibling is quite over after today's temperatures.
johnw
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The Rhodophiala auracana opened this morning. Certainly looks like one of the other R. elwesii ex GBG but the colour is a bit stronger.
johnw
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Very nice. Not at all like what I had under that name, which were a red and white combination (as I think I mentioned previously, I never attempted to verify whether they were correct or not). I do like that strong yellow. Very, very nice. 8)
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Very nice. Not at all like what I had under that name, which were a red and white combination (as I think I mentioned previously, I never attempted to verify whether they were correct or not). I do like that strong yellow. Very, very nice. 8)
Hans - The second Rhodophiala elwesii bloomed today, a pale yellow. I will self it and cross it with its salmon/yellow sibling.
Seeds have already ripened (?) on Hipppeastrum striatum. At least I think they have. There's nothing discernible in the large flat black seeds. Is this normal? Quite alot of them, so if anyone wants some - provided I get an ok on their viability - I can send with the Clivia seeds.
johnw
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John, Hans is away on holiday until the end of July.
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John, Hans is away on holiday until the end of July.
And to think Mark says I know everything that is going on, David!! :o 8)
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Well, nearly everything Maggi! ;D
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Thanks for the reminder David. Hans had told me that too. Am sure he will see the picture when he returns.
johnw
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John,
Love that second yellow Rhodophiala too. Lovely clean colour to it as well. That salmon sibling is pretty impressive as well.
What are the leaves on your Hippeastrum striatum like? Does it have a wide or thin stripe on the leaf, and what colour (white or yellow)? Apparently there is some variability. As to seed viability.... usually there should be evidence of an embryo in the centre of the seed, but sometimes it is not that clear cut. Not quite the answer you were looking for I guess. You could always try floating a few seeds on the surface of a glass of water. I have found that the embryos become much more obvious as they tend to swell as they absorb water. Again though, I would imagine it would depend on the individual species, and I haven't even grown striata.
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Wonderfull, wonderfull plans ! :D
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Paul - I can't find a decent description of H. striatum but the leaves on mine are like any other big Hippeastrum, no marking. This at least agrees with the description on the Internet for var. petiolatum.
Now the question is why striatum?
I am certain all the H. seed will float as they are like paper. I will test a few though to see if any swell.
Can send you seed of the Rhodophialas as there is a wave of new flower stems.
johnw
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Back in July I selfed these two Rhodophiala elwesii grown from seed ex Harry Jans (originally ex Gothenborg) for several people. I also crossed the two and have some seed which may be too ephemeral for the Seed Exchange. The seed is very light with a barely perceptible embryo.
Also a bit of Hippeastrum striatum seed as well.
If you would like some send me a PM.
johnw
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John,
really charming pictures, enjoyed them much.
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I have some other Rhodophiala species seed if anyone is interested.
The search function seems to be wonky on the site today...... anyone else? And posted messages lost.
johnw
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Johnw, the Rodophialas have such a beautiful colors.
I hope one day to can show mines, blooming such as yours.
I sown them and 3 days after, one of them had already the first rooth. I as so surprised. Now there are more germinating.
can you tell how do you keep them in winter? How much do you water them?
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Cris - I will give you a little answer :
you have to look which Rhodphialas -it is depending what you grow ( summer -or wintergrowers ),
be careful with watering ( each 8 -10 days ) and not too warm
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Hans, now I need to ask you more.... when you say "not too warm"... when do you mean... when they are growing or when dormant .......perhaps always not too warm? How warm is "too warm" ? Sorry is these seem foolisg questions but I think/hope they may be useful to me and to others :-[ :-\
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Maggi ,
after my expierience I have the best results with Rhodophials when I have it in winter in my greenhouse ( the pots with seeds and seedlings ) -in summer they are in my greenhouse under the tables .
I have tried it earlier to sow like my other Amaryllids ( Zephyranthes and similar ) - but it works for me not...I suppose they must have to germinate not too warm .
There is a problem . the seeds comes mostly from the southern hemisphere ...so I sow it always directly -later I try to grow for two periods ...than I can give it the right time
The summergrowing Rhodophiala I grow it outside ( under protection from rain ) and I treat it similar like my Zephyranthes and similar ....
But I have to report : Rhodophialas are difficould ( for me ) and they grow really slow -if i compere it with Hippeastrum , Zephyranthes ,Habrantus - they flower after few years.
I would be interestet to hear expieriences from other growers !
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Hi Hans,
Last September I sowed Rhodophiala advena which germinated quickly in my greenhouse then eventually went dormant in May. In August the plants re-emerged before I had resumed watering and now have 2-3 leaves each that are 2-3 mm wide. By contrast R. serotina sown at the same time didn't germinate so freely for me but plants remained green throughout the summer and now have 3-5 3 mm wide leaves each. Encouraged by this limited success, now I have also sown bagnoldii, bifida, phycelloides, rhodolirion, splendens and an unidentified species. However from what you say I have a long wait for flowers :'( Maybe I must go to Chile instead ;D
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Hi Ashley ,
I had good succsess with R. bifida - they grows nice !
With seeds from commercial source I was not so happy - only few and bad germination.
Good results I had also with seeds from private sources -the summergrowing species are for me a little more simple .
The problem with seeds from societies is often the seeds are wrong named -mostly is it Zephyranthes !
Interesting to read that you have R.serotina ... can we maybe swap ?
I have in this time still surplus seeds -if you are interestet to swap with me please send me a PM.
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Hans, thanks for the tips.
By now I have 3 little one year bulbs, but no signs of leaves. It is R. bifida. Sence they arrived in last autumn, the bulbs are in dormancy. Sometimes I look for them and they are ok, but no signs os "wake up". I give them some water to don't dry the roots.
I also have R.advena, bought last year, sown in winter. They germinated very well, the leaves are still green and have more or less 15cm. In the same time i sown R.splendens, but neather one have germinated, as also Placea arzea.
Now I have R.elwesii germinating.
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Cris - Sorry for the late reply.
I really can't remember how I grew the Rhodophiala elwesii from seed. I presume like any other bulb - not over-watering and yet not letting get bone dry. Lots of grit in the mix. As I recall they did not go dormant in the first few years, now they keep a few tired leaves during the dormant period.
They were very slow to flower as noted in previous postings but that was more likely my fault as I didn't fertilize much. Be careful with the nitrogen though.
There is an interesting note on Rhodophiala at the Pacific Bulb Society site:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/pbs/2003-March/002261.html
If anyone that I sent seed to has a few left over would you kindly contact me, one requester's packet has gone missing.
johnw
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Johnw, thank for the information. ;)
By now, there are 4 seeds germinated.
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Howdy All,
I thought I'd post these pics here, as well as in the Southern Hemisphere section.....
This is Hippeastrum cybister, in flower from seed for me for the first time. I have now been told that this looks to be the "Regge" strain of the species, just in case anyone is interested in that info.
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I think that may be the "Reggae" strain, Paul, as in Jamaican music 8)
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I had wondered that myself, but was given that spelling so have stuck with it. Must check up and verify.
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In 'Reggae' the filaments and style are creamy white (quoted from the book of Veronica Read).
Alberto
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Hi at all,
here are some pictures of my Hippeastrum cybister.
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Hippeastrum aulicum is flowering now, I love it because it is a real intense red with green in the middle and it is and evergreen one.
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Bewautiful Renate, just beautiful!! 8)
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Renate, really beautiful images. Did your cybister bloomed now?
Alberto
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Here is one of my Hippeastrum. It is called 'Evergreen'.
It has given me 4 flower stems.
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Wow! I do not know this variety.... so pretty... and FOUR stems....that is VERY GOOD! I am impressed, Anne 8)
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Thank you Maggi. :) I think it may be a while before it will flower again. The onion is smaller now than it was when I got it. So I will have to feed it for some time.
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Anne (or is that Anne Karin?),
Great Hippeastrum. Interesting form and colour to it. Definitely something I've not seen before. And Welcome to the forums!! 8) 8)
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Thank you for the Welcome Paul, and I am using Anne.
The Hippeastrum has an interesting color. And I just had to have it. ;D
I have sown a couple of interesting Hippeastrums from Brazil last year, but I will have to wait for some years to see them flower.
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Got another one in flower to day.
Giraffe.
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I think I have seen this variety Giraffe on sale in the UK though I have not grown it.
I like the lovely violet coloured orchid we can see, too ...... what is it?
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I really don't know Maggi. The label just says Orchid.
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Oh my! I love your cybister! It's my fav Hipp. species! I hope to get one on spring :D
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I really don't know Maggi. The label just says Orchid.
No matter, Anne Karin ... it is the same in the UK, often orcids are sold with no species name.... though, of course, so many are intergeneric hybrids os very complicated parentage, that perhaps we should be grateful for the simplicity of "orchid" !! ;D ;) 8)
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I have problem seeing it clearly but can be a Phalaenopsis hybrid or a Dendrobium phalaenopsis both common in stores in Sweden and Portugal so presumably in UK and Norway as well.
Very nice and long-lasting flowers :)
Nice pictures everyone of "amarylis" as we call them in Sweden.
In Portugal they can be grown outside all year if they are protected from the winter rain. So much easier :)
Kind regards
Joakim
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I think it can be Phalaenopsis equestris (blue) (http://www.orchidehuset.se/images/Phalaenopsis%20equestris-bla.jpg)
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I think it can be Phalaenopsis equestris (blue) (http://www.orchidehuset.se/images/Phalaenopsis%20equestris-bla.jpg)
I think that is it, Anne Karin, thank you!
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Hi Alberto,
at the moment H.cybister has a bud like always at this time, next week it will be open. I always hear that they should flower in summer but I think the plant hasn´t read the books. It is the third year now that it flowers in Dezember.
Do you also have H.cybister? When do they flower?
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Hi Paul,
thanks, the same for you.
Did your H.cybister ever made young bulbs?
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Renate,
My H. cybister makes lots of offsets, mainly on small stolons. Lots and lots of offsets. ::)
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I looked all the way through this topic, but have been unable to find the answer to my question. So here goes. I have a friend who has neglected her hippeastrum for two years, found it behind some other rubbish with the start of foliage, so she took it out and began watering it. Leaves have grown very strappy but no sign of a flower, surprise surprise!
What remedies do you folks have for her poor bulb? It is clearly alive, but she wants to see it flower again now and promises to take care of it once she knows how. Many thanks for advice....
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Maybe it just needs to build up size again so water and feed and give it some time outside (the summer) to get plenty of sunshine. Maybe need to be protected from the not so nice weather (UK summer) close to a wall of the house. I see them grow in troughs with overhead protection here in Portugal but with good sunshine on them. They flower well.
I am not an expert so maybe You get different advise from the more experienced growers but that is how I have done with mine and got some to re bloom even if I was way to bad in giving any feeding :( With feeding I presume I would have had much more flowers. ::)
Regarding having it over winter.
In Sweden I have had them in the window but I had to many and to small window so they got long and "floppy foliage that they later lost when they went out. Some gradually stop watering and then the plant becomes dormant and can be stored without the need of light but a bit cooler than room temperature but frost free.
In Portugal they stay out all year under some protection from the rain (outdoor stair to the upstairs neighbour) if You get what I am trying to say).
Best of Luck
Joakim
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Thanks for the help Joakim. Do you just use general tomato feed or something else? I know she will need to repot it, that's for sure. With it having so much foliage on it right now, perhaps she should wait until after the summer. Guess the big plan is to put it somewhere that it can 'bake' and be dry for the summer, then pot it up in September perhaps?
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Coming from one that did not use much fertilizer I must admit that it only got standard "indoor" plant fertilizer and it will be happy with that and also tomato feed. It might need more than a year to get back to flowering size so it might not yet be critical what kind of feed yet. Later to promote flowering You might want to change. Regarding repotting time I do not know the best time and if it is is repotted during dormacy there is not much root damage but then again it is a bit "dead" and I have repotted plants in growth without much or any setback if one is careful. But again I have done it and it worked but it might not be optimum.
The baking in the summer is good but many growers in Sweden try to have them out as soon as it is frost free to give it as much light at possible. May even need to bring them back when there is risk of frost. I did not go that far just had them out when the weather got better in April / May. The once in Portugal is rock hard and have bloomed well even if a lot of the foliage has been eaten by miniature snails. So as much sun as possible I think.
Good luck
Joakim
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At this point I should tell you that my friend lives in Toronto, Canada, so the climactic conditions will differ from Portugal, Sweden and England. However, a lot of the things you have said will still be relevant. At least they get the baking hot sun in the summer to help the bulb. She wanted to cut off the foliage now because it is very long and leggy, but I shall tell her to leave it on this year. What a triumph it will be if she can get it to flower again. She does listen to what I tell her to do, so I have hopes...
thanks again Joakim.
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Chris The winters in Sweden and Toronto are similar in that the Hip. can not grow outside and that they are with low lightlevels indoors but often high temps. The summers are similar to Portugal. If baked and watered it may grow a lot during the summer and I think the foliage can stay since the bulb need all the energy it can get and later when it goes outside they will drop by it self and maybe that energy will go back to the bulb.
I give no guarantee it is just how I grow them where I live. Sometimes well others not so well.
In Sweden many give up their bulbs after Christmas and they will be thrown or part of the compost.
In Portugal they are just planted in a container and maybe watered and it takes care of it self. That is if unless You really want to grow them well. Then they need a bit of fertilizer and not only what is in the soil.
As I presume You also know when changing country one also change the way one garden and also the plants.
Good luck
Joakim
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Thanks Joakim, I've relayed all you said to her and she has taken note. I will add this to her instructions. Yes, I know about climate changes and suchlike, but was not sure about this particular bulb as I've not grown it before at all. I'm hopeful that, with care, she can get it to flower again. Thanks again for all your help
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Hi,
One year ago I've been offered a hybrid Hippeastrum ( "Picotee"?) which flowered on 2 stems. I didn't like the idea of growing this plant again because I've previouly always failed to bring them to flower the following year. I've put the plant on my balcony in a shady spot, fertilizing regularly. It stayed there until Xmas exposed to light frosts (-5°C ) in its dried compost. Then I had remorses and brought the bulb indoors, cut the frozen leaves, repotted it with new compost and put it behind a a south facing window. New leaves quickly appeared followed by 2 stems. It is now in full bloom.
I don't really have any experience on these plants. The bulb is now emptying. Is it the end? Will further fertilizing make it getting bigger? Thanks for any advice
Jean-Patrick