Scottish Rock Garden Club Forum
General Subjects => Travel / Places to Visit => Topic started by: Steve Garvie on November 29, 2017, 05:02:50 PM
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I don’t like November or December here in Scotland. The days are short, the weather is generally dismal and the garden is seemingly devoid of colour and life. Granted the odd Crocus or South African bulb tries to buck the trend but if truth be told my garden and greenhouses can spare me for a week or two at this time of year.
Apart from gardening my other main interest is watching wildlife -especially birds. Admittedly the winter wildfowl flocks in Scotland can be impressive but there is nothing quite like birdwatching in the Sun, especially when it offers a brief respite from a northern Winter.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7088/7404288268_50082da8f7_o_d.jpg)
Sunrise over the mangrove forest at Makasutu, The Gambia
Until about 15 years ago I had barely heard of The Gambia. On the face of it this tiny West African country (the smallest on the continent) has nothing going for it with peanuts being its most valuable export. Indeed The Gambia is barely half the size of Wales, it holds no iconic big game, no grand scenic splendours and no spectacular cultural heritage sites. I would probably still be ignorant of The Gambia had it not been for a work colleague who upon returning from a cheap winter holiday package deal expounded the virtues of the country. He reported a surprising choice in restaurants, hotel accommodation of a good standard and, best of all, a range of colourful birds everywhere. Though having no great interest in birds he and his wife had been persuaded to go out on a couple of birdwatching trips with a local bird guide (in The Gambia, bird guiding services for visiting tourists has become a major “industry”) and saw a range of birds that filled me with envy! We made our first trip to The Gambia shortly after and have since visited on a number of occasions -always during the northern Winter.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4576/26864074659_87cfdc61cd_o_d.jpg)
Senegal Parrots
The Gambia has a rather bizarre geography (dictated by its colonial past) with an Atlantic coastline extending from the mouth of the river Gambia. The river Gambia splits the country into two and apart from the coastline it is surrounded on all sides by Senegal. Despite its small size and flat topography (the highest point is only 54 metres) it has a surprising range of productive habitats including Mangrove forest, Guinea savannah forest mosaic, seasonal freshwater pools and low intensity cultivations. There are essentially no large dangerous wild animals, the local people are very friendly and violent crime is exceedingly rare making it safe to wander around in search of birds.
Tourism is on the up in The Gambia. The country is only a five and a half hour flight directly south from much of Western Europe and the hotels are of an excellent standard. Package deals are freely available in the UK from Thomas Cook, TUI (Thomson of old) and the Gambia Experience (in my opinion the best company) with flights from three UK airports. I believe that package deals are available in the Netherlands, Belgium, Germany and Spain (with similar deals from France to Senegal).
The images that follow were all taken by me in The Gambia during a number of winter breaks over the last few years (including earlier this month); hopefully they will give an indication of what you can expect to see in terms of wildlife. Sadly I have taken very few images of the plant life which is particularly unfortunate as there are some very impressive trees native to the area including Ebony, Mahogany, Ironwood and Silk Cotton trees. Most of the images were taken on short casual birdwatching trips with a Gambian friend or in the grounds of hotels we have stayed in. Some images were taken on an upcountry trip to Georgetown on MacCarthy Island (Janjanbureh) then on to Basse Santa Su near the eastern border of the country.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4576/26864075169_65a7cbffcc_o_d.jpg)
White-crested Helmet-shrike
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4583/26943207379_ef3cfb4e38_o_d.jpg)
Long-tailed Glossy Starling
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4542/38583608806_e622e11526_o_d.jpg)
African Fish Eagle (Best seen upriver beyond Tendaba)
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The sheer number and range of birds in this tiny country has to be seen to be believed.
In Europe (excluding Turkey east of the Bosphorus) there is only one species of Kingfisher -The Gambia has nine species -ranging from the tiny African Pygmy Kingfisher to the Giant Kingfisher (which, excluding the Kookaburras is the largest Kingfisher in the World).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4540/24767758018_d8f41f15b9_c_d.jpg)
Giant Kingfisher
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4575/26864073919_0e1c277c2a_o_d.jpg)
African Pygmy Kingfisher
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4519/38583621986_4f8aa077d6_o_d.jpg)
Blue-breasted Kingfisher
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4542/37752197185_a3e8fcabbb_o_d.jpg)
Pied Kingfisher
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4525/37752202755_1e213b15b6_o_d.jpg)
Grey-headed Kingfisher
Whilst staying at Mandina lodges (at the edge of a Mangrove forest) we had four species of kingfishers perch on our lodge balustrade (Giant, Pied, Blue-breasted and Malachite).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4536/24852133498_191313b749_o_d.jpg)
This cheeky wee Malachite Kingfisher came to abuse the Wooden cat carving by our lodge (mobile phone image).
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Bee-eaters are another example of what The Gambia has to offer. Europe has one species, The Gambia has eight!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4580/37752204665_29858c089c_o_d.jpg)
Northern Carmine Bee-eater
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4562/26864078579_c2bd5b6c51_c_d.jpg)
Swallow-tailed Bee-eater
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4520/38639996501_65632d4b15_o_d.jpg)
Red-throated Bee-eater
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4530/37752199305_8660f9f2ca_o_d.jpg)
Little Bee-eater
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4547/38607402822_7ff6e34d31_o_d.jpg)
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4564/37553681685_1080d4c2fc_c_d.jpg)
White-throated Bee-eater
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Steve:
This was a bit of a mental break from the short days here. Thank you.
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I am always in awe of your plant images Steve, but these are quite astonishing! Thank you for posting.
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Many thanks Arnold and Gail!
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Most of the tourist hotels in The Gambia are along its Atlantic coastline. There is an area called Kololi where a few of the larger hotels are situated. These hotels have extensive bird-rich gardens with numerous bird species that have become habituated and allow a close approach. Shy, skulking species such as Senegal Coucal and Yellow-crowned Gonolek are easy to see. Manicured lawns attract birds such as Wattled Plover whilst weedy patches under shrubs attract small finches such as Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu. One of the hotels (The Senegambia) has its own resident bird guides, extensive “tropical” gardens and a vulture feeding station where the local Hooded Vultures are fed every day at 11am (I kid you not!).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4537/24839032878_99e030a4d1_o_d.jpg)
Senegal Coucal
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4519/26864079899_243dd3d755_o_d.jpg)
Yellow-crowned Gonolek
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4518/38639995341_60a04ea2d2_o_d.jpg)
Wattled Plover
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4546/26864070109_9742a04a81_o_d.jpg)
Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu (male)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4574/38699122062_1fc3f72657_o_d.jpg)
Hooded Vulture
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There is another complex of hotels at a place called Kotu. This area holds a patchwork of different habitats including a mangrove-lined saltwater creek, a paved cycle track (which runs through scrubby woodland, cultivations and coastal palm forest), freshwater ponds and seasonal rice fields, a golf course and a sewage works (no birding holiday is ever complete without a visit to the local sewage works!). The range and number of birds to be seen in this area is quite astonishing.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4573/38583742086_64c9dc9f12_o_d.jpg)
Kotu Creek
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4560/38583742846_a5e3675255_o_d.jpg)
Kotu Cycle track
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4570/38583742426_1e510a0862_o_d.jpg)
Kotu Rice Fields
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4577/38583610016_aaa4527ba0_o_d.jpg)
A fat Scotsman birding on the golfcourse. I got an eagle at the 4th hole (Wahlberg’s Eagle).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4558/38662991766_2b8b98e200_o_d.jpg)
Kotu Sewage Works -Holds a range of waders and ducks. (A tanker discharging sewage is just visible in the background. There is no need to go that far back to see the birds!)
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Some of the birds from the Kotu area:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4543/38583743446_948fb688a0_o_d.jpg)
A Moho (Oriole Warbler) in scrub near the Kotu Bridge.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4534/37922313924_26b33ba536_o_d.jpg)
Pied Kingfisher hovering (taken from the bridge at Kotu Creek)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4568/37725760234_f3030c80dc_o_d.jpg)
Blue-bellied Roller -common in the African Oil Palm trees along Kotu Cycle Track.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4572/37922454914_cdb5ec35d9_o_d.jpg)
Sacred Ibis feeding in a stagnant pool adjacent to Kotu Rice Fields
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4560/38639996121_3f35db528a_o_d.jpg)
Wahlberg’s Eagle overflying the golf course.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4544/38607544502_7feb7d3e34_o_d.jpg)
Marsh Sandpiper at the sewage works.
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The Gambian tourist season runs from October until April -corresponding with the dry season. Over our Northern Summer The Gambia is very humid with frequent heavy rain. The land becomes very green and lush at this time but unfortunately mosquitoes abound. Many of the local birds breed in the wet season whilst intra-african migrants also visit. A trip in October will provide the opportunity to see at least 4 species of cuckoo as well as some birds which become very scarce in the dry season such as Woodland Kingfisher.
Perhaps one of the most dramatic changes between breeding and non-breeding plumage is seen in the small sparrow-like Northern Red Bishop. In the dry season these are skulking non-descript wee brown birds but during their breeding season the males are an eye-burning orange-red. Bishops in breeding plumage can occasionally be seen up until about mid-November but are guaranteed in October.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4519/38739432601_815cd128e4_o_d.jpg)
Northern Red Bishop (Non-breeding)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4523/23874901017_1e60de6ffa_o_d.jpg)
Northern Red Bishop (Breeding male)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4577/37752205075_0cd44ce53f_o_d.jpg)
Northern Red Bishop (Breeding male)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4552/38739475701_1787f05712_o_d.jpg)
Levaillant’s Cuckoo
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4522/26864079359_1679db5004_o_d.jpg)
Woodland Kingfisher
Another small drab bird which undergoes a dramatic change in the breeding season is the male Exclamatory Paradise Whydah. On first seeing this bird in flight it is not difficult to appreciate why it was so named!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4529/38583611806_54bf865589_o_d.jpg)
Exclamatory Paradise Whydah
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Absolutely terrific pictures, thanks Steve.
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It makes our birds look drab. What camera do you use Steve, excellent photos.
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Hi Steve,
marvelous pics as always!
The variety of birds is extraordinary, the colours amazing, especially the breeding plumage of the Northern Red Bishop.
And the number of kingfishers is mind-boggling,
cheers
fermi
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Steve:
Even better today.
Can you give us amateur photogs a overview of what equipment you seem to lugging around Gambia.
Thanks,
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I had no idea the birdlife of the Gambia was so rich. How rewarding to be able to have a break in a warm sunny place with so much beauty to enjoy! Thanks for sharing, Steve!
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Great set of pictures Steve
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Ah Steve, what superb photographs and what memories …
It must be 27 or 28 years ago when I first went there. There were just five hotels specially build for a burgeoning tourist industry. 5-star accommodation, food and service for not a lot of money in those days. Just one bird guide then, but he had immense knowledge and eyesight you only dream about.
With so many places to see in the world we are not ones to keep returning to the same country or spot. It was approximately 15 years later that we decided on a return visit (not something we do lightly as it never seems as good the second time round). We chose a different hotel but still overlooking the coast – it was excellent. Glad we didn’t return to the original hotel as it was looking a bit jaded.
However, the birding and country was as good as ever and more guides to choose from. Birdwatching from the Kotu Bridge was a joy, especially for the Pied Kingfishers fishing close by.
Thanks for the memories, Steve.
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Many thanks for your kind words everyone.
As regards my photographic gear the older photographs were taken with a Canon 1D mkII camera and then more recently with a Canon 7D mkII.
I have used the same telephoto lens (usually with a 1.4x teleconvertor) for years. It is a Canon 500mm f4 IS lens. The lens is the most expensive part of the kit (mine was bought many years ago with an income tax rebate). This lens is widely travelled and has endured some extreme conditions over the years but continues to deliver the goods. The only problem with the high end Canon lenses is that they are a standout creamy-white colour and so I have my lens covered with a rubberised camouflage material (which also offers some dirt/ dust protection).
A 500mm lens with a 1.4x convertor produces a 14x magnification. The 7D mkII camera does not have a full size sensor -its smaller sensor has an area of 22.4mmx15mm but it has a huge linear pixel density of 2433 per cm. When compared to a full sized sensor camera (equivalent to the old 50mm cameras) it crops the image effectively adding another 1.6x magnifiation. So my setup (including the 1.4x convertor) produces an effective magnification of 22.4x. At this magnification any movement of the bird or shaking on my part will be greatly magnified. Getting sharp images is dependent upon a fast shutter speed first and foremost. A good image stabilisation system will allow sharp images of still/slow moving subjects at lower shutter speeds as will a stable tripod. Unfortunately tripod stability is in part a function of weight. Extra speed can be obtained in digital cameras by increasing the sensor gain (ISO setting) though this is at the expense of image quality.
I use a Gitzo 5 series carbon fibre tripod with a Wimberley gimbal head. The tripod, gimbal head, camera, lens and telecovertor have a combined weight of just over 13kg. As I get older it is getting harder to lug this gear around -especially under the heat of an African Sun. ;)
Chris it is a big wide World out there and sadly life is all too short. Like you I feel that there are so many places to see. However my wife has a soft spot for Mandina Lodges in The Gambia (more of this place later) and as we have effectively acquired a Gambian family we are obliged to keep returning -which is no great chore really. ;)
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Thank you for such wonderful pictures. The kingfishers and bee eaters are stunning.
Most envious to experience such wonderful birds like this, we have a kingfisher in our
garden and that flash of blue skimming over the water is such a delight.
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Many thanks Bernadette.
Another group of colourful birds that leave an impression are the Sunbirds. These iridescent wee birds are superficially similar to the American Hummingbirds but are totally unrelated. Sunbirds feed on nectar and insects but unlike Hummingbirds they do not hover. Their bold colours are in part due to structural pigment in the feathers but are also a consequence of some of the feathers having a complex microscopic structure which acts as a diffraction grating splitting white light into component parts, some of which is absorbed & some reflected. The variable colours produced by this process are bright, reflective, metallic and ephemeral. Colours produced by this means constantly vary in intensity giving the birds a sparkle which brings the feathers to life. This moment-to-moment variation is dependent on the angle & intensity of the incident light.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4523/26864071239_a93400ee4c_o_d.jpg)
Male Variable Sunbird (the belly feathers contain yellow pigment but the upper chest feathers produce their colour by diffraction, refraction, reflection and absorption of light).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4558/38584026726_d564c15d7d_o_d.jpg)
Male Splendid Sunbird (in indirect diffused light this bird just looks black)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4517/26864070709_0362cc31fa_o_d.jpg)
Male Red-chested Sunbird
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4519/38583741316_d1fa6fe911_o_d.jpg)
Male Green-headed Sunbird (A scarce species in The Gambia -it comes to the water bowls at Mandina Lodges)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4559/24767758328_08c1ed2a4b_o_d.jpg)
Male Beautiful Sunbird
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4517/38583740956_6ccdbdb14e_o_d.jpg)
This drab hyperactive wee Sunbird is called the Mouse Brown Sunbird or now, more correctly the Mangrove Sunbird. It is really a birder’s bird being endemic to West African Mangrove Forest and is generally difficult to see and photograph. At Mandina Lodges they come to drink and bathe in the water bowls and put on a show for the camera.
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There must be countries that have more species of herons and egrets than The Gambia but I can’t think of any.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4540/37553668565_f5c79657c6_c_d.jpg)
A fish is only a hop, a skip and a jump away. (Great White Egret and Little Egret)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4560/37922314674_9e8ab412f5_o_d.jpg)
If there is a big one and a little one then there has to be one in the middle (Intermediate Egret).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4523/24767781368_cf93e5e085_c_d.jpg)
Western Reef Heron (Common on the coast and along the fringes of Mangroves).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4523/26864069279_2fe0d93b75_o_d.jpg)
Striated Heron (The smallest species of heron in The Gambia).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4520/38583606296_1738a5e55b_o_d.jpg)
Goliath Heron -this is the World’s largest heron at almost 5 feet tall.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4564/26864067909_51cbe027a2_o_d.jpg)
White-backed Night Heron. (One of the most elusive herons in Africa)
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(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4530/38639995711_0c82ae0d46_o_d.jpg)
Purple Heron.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4566/38583610736_03d6b1c6a6_o_d.jpg)
Black-headed Heron
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4577/38583612846_574e1d3de9_o_d.jpg)
Black-crowned Night Heron
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4547/38440612271_0cbdc303af_c_d.jpg)
Squacco Heron
My all-time favourite has to be the Black Egret -known locally as the Umbrella Bird. This sneaky bird uses cloak and dagger techniques to make a catch.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4523/38607403202_eaea90704d_o_d.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4560/38607402472_23e5b9b52e_c_d.jpg)
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Another wonderful collection of photographs.
Your Little Egret doesn't have yellow feet - is that a play of the light?
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The whole reportage, Wonderful.
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Spectacular photography as always, Steve! Definitely enjoying this nature travelogue.
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Many thanks Chris, Jan & Gordon.
Chris, the yellow toes are just about visible in this image:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4519/23901008397_0a6a153004_c_d.jpg)
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Steve, your photo. of the black egret reminded me of the wildlife series called "a walk on the wildside." I don,t know if you have seen it but it brings a humerous side to wildlife. If you google it, it is worth watching. It is on a BBC site, not a Lou Reed song.
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ABUKO
Abuko is a small nature reserve that is only a short drive away from the main tourist resorts. The core area of the reserve comprises of some permanent freshwater pools and relict gallery forest whilst the reserve extension is secondary forest with an “Animal Orphanage” which was once essentially a small zoo. It is now an injured animal rehabilitation centre though bizarrely it also still holds a breeding group of Spotted Hyenas. Beside the “orphanage” there is a small makeshift corrugated iron hut called the photographer’s hide. There is a small fee to use this hide which overlooks an artificial waterhole. The waterhole at this hide looks like a small forest pool and it attracts a considerable range of birds (-including many shy forest species) which can be photographed up close.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4584/26864075659_786e579025_c_d.jpg)
Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher at the “photographer’s hide”.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4564/26864073429_3c8dd7b798_c_d.jpg)
Western Bluebill bathing at the “photographer’s hide”.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4525/37752200815_01e01dc375_o_d.jpg)
Lavender Waxbill at the “photographer’s hide”.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4519/37752199885_5c1734f30f_o_d.jpg)
Orange-cheeked Waxbill at the “photographer’s hide”.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4548/26863923879_11cdbbaf12_o_d.jpg)
Guinea (Green) Turaco. Abuko is the best place to see this bird though it is also found in other forested areas such as Makasutu (Mandina Lodges).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4538/38639994941_14cbca1af8_c_d.jpg)
Violet Turaco
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Greatly enjoyed the beautiful photographs. Many thanks.
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I have just looked for "a walk on the wildside" and it has been removed.
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Better to nip to The Gambia and see them in the flesh Ian.
It’s possible to get a one week package deal flying from Gatwick and staying in the Senegambia hotel (the one with the huge gardens and massive bird list) for about £550 (for January 2018).
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There are a number of other locations that are easily visited from the coastal hotels including the Bund Road near Banjul which is good for water birds including Pelicans and Yellow-billed Storks.
Brufut woods is a community forest where the small tourist entry fee is shared amongst the local bird guides. Roosting Nightjars and owls are the speciality here.
Further inland there is extensive open savannah woodland near the village of Faraba Banta (my friend’s home village). This is a superb area for large raptors with nine species of eagle being regularly seen in the area. With some local knowledge it is usually also possible to locate the roosting Greyish Eagle Owls.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4533/38583621326_2939a3d8c6_c_d.jpg)
African Harrier Hawk (immature).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4566/26864071869_f83a1165b7_o_d.jpg)
Striped Kingfisher -a Kingfisher that shuns water preferring open savannah woodland.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4548/37922455344_741b804cc9_o_d.jpg)
Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl -This giant owl has the most amazing pink eyelids (Brufut Woods).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4558/38583610296_6b024b9fc9_c_d.jpg)
African Hawk Eagle -note the full crop. These powerful eagles catch Ground Squirrels, Hares, Francolin and Guinea Fowl. (Faraba Banta Bush Track).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4519/38583611096_1ce4b01d67_o_d.jpg)
Dark Chanting Goshawk (Faraba Banta Bush Track).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4515/37752196445_8ab9c5ef96_o_d.jpg)
Long Crested Eagle (I need to get a better image of this spectacular eagle).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4549/37752203725_2f573fcd7e_c_d.jpg)
Greyish Eagle Owl (Faraba Banta Bush track). This species was fairly recently split from the Spotted Eagle-Owl.
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Pirang, a village near Faraba Banta has two very worthwhile sites to visit. The first is Bonto Forest -an area of relict gallery forest which holds much the same species as Abuko. The second site is Pirang Shrimp Farm.
Pirang Shrimp Farm is a very productive area for waterbirds. It comprises of an extensive complex of large shallow pools -some freshwater and some brackish. The area is manmade with large sand bunds separating the numerous “scrapes”. Unfortunately access can be a problem as some of the previous owners of the site have not welcomed visitors (it is a working shrimp farm). I have only managed to gain access in two out of four visits though good birds can be seen in the surrounding area even when the site is closed to visitors. Probably my most memorable Gambian birding experience was on a visit to Pirang. On that occasion the shrimp ponds near the entrance had been harvested and we had to walk a significant distance to find the birds which were concentrated on a handful of pools that were rapidly evaporating leaving the fish almost stranded. A few ponds held some form of Brine Shrimp which had attracted Avocets, Greater Flamingos and some northern waders (including Curlew Sandpiper and Little Stint). On the ponds holding fish we saw both Great White and Pink-backed Pelicans, Yellow-billed Storks, African and Eurasian Spoonbills, Sacred Ibis, Grey and Black-headed Herons and various egrets including numerous Black Egrets (doing their umbrella bird stunt). We were also fortunate in finding a pair of the hugely impressive but increasingly scarce Black Crowned Crane (a different species from the Grey Crowned Crane which is common in parts of Eastern and Southern Africa). Crowned Cranes are the only cranes with a strong hind-toe and so they are the only cranes that can perch in trees.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4525/38639998031_9bcf161cf7_o_d.jpg)
Some of the lagoons at Pirang with Bonto Forest in the background.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4575/38639998451_d589f23205_o_d.jpg)
African Pied Hornbill at the edge of Bonto Forest (photographed from the Shrimp Farm).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4576/38662991506_2c946c5e33_c_d.jpg)
The long walk to the active ponds at the shrimp farm with my friend Modou.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4568/38583740716_f005c11912_o_d.jpg)
Little Stint at Pirang Shrimp Farm.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4523/37922459634_785d2ba944_o_d.jpg)
Great White Pelicans and Yellow-billed Storks (Can you spot the Greenshank?).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4567/38639998801_3bcce93fa9_c_d.jpg)
Pink-backed Pelicans, Yellow-billed Storks, Great White Egret, Black Egrets and African Spoonbill.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4526/26864077809_635072eb5b_o_d.jpg)
The larger birds scare fish which the crafty Black Egrets pick off under the guise of providing a shaded refuge. There were also some overhead Black Kites swooping down to nab stranded fish.
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(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4547/38639997531_9b1644efef_o_d.jpg)
Spur-winged Plover (Pirang).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4577/24900281158_1a6609ae31_h_d.jpg)
Pirang Panoramic
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4579/38583607976_88c18cb703_o_d.jpg)
Black Crowned Crane in flight (Pirang). Note the strong hind-toe and claws which allow this species to perch -something other cranes can’t do.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4548/38583607706_ec0f6e7fa2_o_d.jpg)
Black Crowned Cranes perching in a tree (Pirang).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4573/38583614786_63a5cd2734_o_d.jpg)
Black-headed Plover (A type of Lapwing).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4552/26864072709_6f75878482_c_d.jpg)
Black-faced Quailfinch male at Pirang. These tiny wee birds favour rather arid grassland and are normally a nightmare to see. Photographs of this bird in the wild are rare due to its skulking habits. Luck plays a very large part in wildlife photography and such was the case with this image. My gear was all set up and I was standing watching some pelicans flying overhead when this wee bird landed nearby and then shuffled right up to me. It was still early in the day (overhead sun produces very harsh light) and so I was able to get some point-blank images in nice light. Normally I would screw-up an opportunity like this but fortuitously the camera happened to be on the correct settings. ;)
This image was used in Volume 14 of The Handbook of The Birds of The World. Thank you Mr Quailfinch.
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Your posts are definitely helping Steve, along with an hour in front of my SAD light every morning, stunning series of bird pictures.
Thanks for cheering me up in dark December.
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UPCOUNTRY
There are some exciting birds that cannot be seen near the coastal resorts. To see these birds requires a trip upcountry (following the river Gambia inland to where it becomes freshwater). Now that both the North Bank and South Bank roads have been re-surfaced along their entire length it is possible to drive from the coast to Georgetown in about 6 hours whilst checking out various habitats en route. An upcountry trip requires the hire of a guide with a decent vehicle who will arrange the necessary accommodation. I would suggest driving up to Georgetown on the first day and spending 3 nights at Baobolong camp. This gives two full days around Georgetown during which it is well worth booking one or two boat trips into the River Gambia National Park. The National park holds riverine forest and gallery forest on some of the larger islands. There are still some Common Hippos present here and there is also a chimpanzee rehab. programme with Chimpanzees being present on some of the larger forested islands. The return trip to the coast can be broken by an overnight stay at Tendaba Camp from where a boat excursion to the mangroves across from the camp is a must.
Both Baobolong and Tendaba camps are very basic though the rooms do have ensuite facilities and both have electricity (though powercuts are frequent).
Whilst the larger vultures and large raptors are far easier to see upcountry, there are some birds which can only be seen by travelling inland. These include Marabou Stork, Woolly-necked Stork, some Bee-eater species (Northern Carmine, Red-throated and Little Green) and Egyptian Plover.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4574/37905330415_f50317eb90_o_d.jpg)
White-backed Vulture.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4583/38639996911_3ab4c3845c_o_d.jpg)
Spur-winged Geese in the River Gambia National Park. These impressive waterfowl are about the same size as a large Canada Goose. They often perch in trees.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4566/38584025116_c19a1b30a8_c_d.jpg)
Pink-backed Pelicans nesting at Kwinella.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4582/38075157634_06f666ce80_o_d.jpg)
Nesting Marabou Stork (River Gambia National Park).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4568/26864066709_775d0a0e47_o_d.jpg)
Woolly-necked Stork near Tendaba.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4552/38583740486_fd33eb3f06_o_d.jpg)
Hadada Ibis (River Gambia National Park).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4579/38583623126_78cc0363ac_o_d.jpg)
Egyptian Plover -this iconic bird is one of the most sought after birds in The Gambia.
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(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4542/37922459914_318722ed1c_o_d.jpg)
Rufous-crowned Roller, common inland.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4515/38583739766_f62baa6fa8_o_d.jpg)
Palm Nut Vulture -also known as the Vulturine Fish Eagle. This bird’s diet mainly consists of the fruit of the African Oil Palm making it the World’s only vegetarian vulture.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4577/27017576349_bb2e586b7d_o_d.jpg)
Bruce’s Green Pigeon: a fruit-eating pigeon which is replaced by African Green Pigeon at the coast.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4519/23927913817_e52b860d20_o_d.jpg)
Abyssinian Roller - a stunning Roller that is common inland but less so at the coast.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4581/23927913467_8ae151bcc4_o_d.jpg)
Yellow-billed Oxpeckers. As there are no big game in The Gambia these birds have to make do with domestic beasts. The birds in this photograph are on the back of a donkey -Yellow-billed Asspeckers? ................sorry!
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Raptors
It is birds of prey that do it for me. I have been captivated by raptors since childhood.
Despite its small size the Gambia holds over 40 species including Africa’s largest eagle.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4525/24767372438_7532c6a175_o_d.jpg)
Martial Eagle -this is Africa’s largest eagle. It takes small mammals such as hares, ground squirrels and mongoose as well as birds such as francolin and guinea fowl. It is not however the most powerful eagle in Africa!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4582/38607402092_bb0ced2e32_o_d.jpg)
Beaudouin’s Snake Eagle. This species has been split from the Eurasian Short-toed Eagle from which it differs in having much cleaner symmetrical barring and “pencil lines” on the underwings and belly. As the name suggests it feeds mainly upon snakes and lizards.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4529/38583608346_bcab4aa9b0_o_d.jpg)
Brown Snake Eagle. This is also a snake specialist. In The Gambia there is a third snake eagle which favours wooded areas (Western Banded snake Eagle).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4531/38583740216_3084f28abb_o_d.jpg)
This falcon is most active at dawn and dusk. It feeds on large insects and lizards but also frequently hunts bats.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4529/38583615336_4322376647_c_d.jpg)
Grasshopper Buzzard. As the name suggests this attractive raptor mainly feeds on large insects such as grasshoppers and locusts.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4554/38805251291_c10cec7e3e_o_d.jpg)
An Immature Shikra (essentially a small Sparrowhawk).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4579/23940962057_a271b81450_o_d.jpg)
African Harrier Hawk. This large raptor has long legs & “double-jointed” ankles. It fishes for lizards in crevices and is also able to pull weaver nestlings out of their complex nests. It is a common raptor in The Gambia. There is a video of this behaviour here: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bJtORvPDVbk
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There are many common gambian birds which I haven’t mentioned -some are seen so often that after a while they are taken for granted. Here are a few more:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4574/38584027206_abce5e5cde_c_d.jpg)
African Grey Hornbill.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4575/38583851786_44d4d21d6c_o_d.jpg)
Village Weaver male displaying.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4580/37922455794_3044dc6eab_o_d.jpg)
Red-billed Hornbill.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4515/24937680938_f291c9f181_o_d.jpg)
Western Grey Plantain-eater (A noisy fruit-eating bird allied to the Turacos). This bird is common around the tourist hotels.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4534/38686701042_59de909e36_o_d.jpg)
Purple Glossy Starling. Various species of Glossy Starling are common in the hotel gardens.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4550/27034538749_7e68198a61_z_d.jpg)
Cattle Egrets are common in the hotel gardens.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4555/27034538059_831e3f59a5_c_d.jpg)
Hooded Vulture.
These birds are almost always visible in the sky throughout the main tourist areas and are even actively fed in some hotel gardens. They are one of the first birds to be seen on transfer from the airport to the hotels. Indeed they are still quite common in The Gambia. However this is misleading as over the rest of their range the population of this species is in free-fall. In 2009 the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) listed Hooded Vultures as of “Least concern” but by 2015 a horrendous population crash has resulted in it being raised to “Critically endangered”. We still found good numbers in The Gambia in November of this year.
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The Gambia has lost almost all of its big game over the last 120 years. The last elephant was shot in 1913, West African Giraffe were lost about two decades earlier whilst since then Forest Buffalo, Lions, Lord Derby’s Eland, Waterbuck, Roan and Bubal Hartebeeste have been lost. Up until 50 years ago Leopards could still be seen near the outskirts of the capital, Banjul. It is possible that a few still hold out in Kiang West NP where Spotted Hyenas may also exist but there can’t be much for them to live off.
On the positive side Common Hippos are still present in the River Gambia National Park and there are still at least 3 species of monkey as well as Guinea Baboons.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4549/37925429945_2b433dfefb_o_d.jpg)
Common Hippopotamus in the River Gambia National park.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4518/38811693901_486a0ec229_o_d.jpg)
Patas Monkey.
This species is mainly terrestrial and is very fleet-footed. They favour open semi-arid grassland with scattered trees.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4530/38583741696_3d76dc9f80_o_d.jpg)
Female Guinea baboon with infant at Makasutu.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4549/24767371178_68940ebaf4_o_d.jpg)
Nile Monitor Lizard (Senegambia Hotel Gardens).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4550/38583607226_f7735ed8eb_o_d.jpg)
Kéwel
Previously referred to as “Bushbuck”, it is now known that two different (and not closely related) antelope are known by this name. The larger “Bushbuck” of Eastern and Southern Africa is more closely related to Bongo or Sitatunga and is now referred to as the Imbabala. The “Bushbuck” of The Gambia and adjacent West African countries is a smaller, stockier beast more closely related to Nyala. It is now known as the Kéwel.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4546/38607401752_e90fdd969e_o_d.jpg)
Gambian Epauletted Fruit Bat at Mandina Lodges.
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(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4542/26864324919_d0e6c20616_c_d.jpg)
Green or Callithrix Monkey -a common and very adaptable species (Makasutu).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4516/24767371928_3a9b492e87_o_d.jpg)
The smaller (and more docile) crocs of The Gambia were once regarded as a race of Nile Crocodile but are now treated as a separate species -the West African Crocodile.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4531/24941278128_1d54701a97_o_d.jpg)
Atlantic Bottle-nosed Dolphin photographed in the mouth of the river Gambia. There is also a small population of the exceedingly rare West African Manatee in The Gambia though I have yet to see one.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4579/38653224506_54cc04f7b1_o_d.jpg)
Temminck’s Red Colobus (-photographed in Bijilo Forest Park. This park was cleared in 2017 to build a new conference centre!!!!!).
Temminck’s Red Colobus is now on the IUCN endangered list being restricted to The Gambia, Southern Senegal, Guinea Bissau and Guinea Conakry. The populations in Guinea Bissau and Conakry have contracted dramatically due to hunting but the population in The Gambia had held up well until recently. The recent decline in The Gambia is due to both loss of habitat but also due to tourists actively feeding and encouraging Callithrix monkeys which are out-competing the less adaptable Colobus. Until recently the Colobus were holding their own in the small remnant forest patches around the hotels but as the “Vervet” monkey populations have increased the more docile Colobus have been displaced.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4535/26864068589_895bf3123a_o_d.jpg)
Red Colobus, whilst eating some fruit are predominantly leaf-eaters.
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Steve
Did you see the Abyssinian Ground Hornbills near to Tendaba? A family group parading is a sight to behold.
When my wife and I went birding in The Gambia (and also Senegal) in the 1990s we met a young chap, Soloman Jallow, who acted as our local guide for a couple of days around Abuko and nearby marshes. I've followed his career via the African Bird Club since and we're delighted to note that he's now heading up Dept of Parks & Wildlife based at Abuko. His birding mentor was Clive Barlow.
Your shots here and on the ABC website https://africanbirdclub.org/afbid/search/browse/birder/400 (https://africanbirdclub.org/afbid/search/browse/birder/400) are spectacular. Many thanks for sharing and for also bringing back some great memories. Our 'photos were via an analogue Canon EOS with slide film - those were the days!
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Many thanks Frazer.
You had to pick on my photographic bogey bird! ;)
I have seen and photographed Southern Ground Hornbills on a number of occasions in Kenya but have only once seen Abyssinian GH (poorly -with no photograph) between Farafenni and Kaur on the north bank road. We went looking for them at Kiang West and Tendaba last month but the vegetation was too tall.
I have bumped into Solomon “in the bush” on a few occasions previously. I think he sometimes guides for Birdquest amongst others. We have always used Modou Colley as our guide.
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Extraordinary pics. Thanks for the tour and yes - raptors do it for me every time.