Scottish Rock Garden Club Forum
Specific Families and Genera => Pleione and Orchidaceae => Topic started by: David Nicholson on February 10, 2015, 05:47:21 PM
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Cyp growers might like to take a look at the Web Site of Milan Sembol of Ostrava in the Czech Republic (see ad in the January 2015 The Rock Garden)
www.cypripediums.net (http://www.cypripediums.net)
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I had a look last night. Unfortunately they are guilty of one of my pet Internet hates, a flashy website with lots of pretty pictures, mostly of cyps which are VYPPRODANO. Oh well, at least I know the Czech for out of stock.
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I would think it was early in the year for a current list to be available - I wouldn't expect plants to be being sent right now , nor at a stage to be sure of future harvest .... so the "out of stock" message wouldn't bother me right now. The fellow must be expecting to have plants to sell at some point or why would he bother taking an advert?
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Good selection of hardy orchids in a gardencener nearby - prices are 20 Euros per pot. Selections include reginae, reginae album kentuckiende, parviflorum and makasin as well as several hybrids. In a pot of parviflorum I counted 16 shoots!
I have no idea what type the Calanthe or the Pleione is.
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My word - if I thought I could see thing like that in a garden centre here I'd make the effort to go..... mind you, I don't go - so perhaps there IS a display like that in the local place?!!! :o ::)
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Sorry for my english.
On this site some photos of cypripedium is wrong >:( - for example, shown above, of course, not himalaicum and not yunnanense
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Welcome Dzeguzkurpīte, good to have your input.
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Hi,
a start for 2015 with formosanum in bud.
I love the pleated leaves with the bud nestling in between.
This plant is increasing in size with the vigour of a hybrid.
Two years ago it started as a couple of large roots and these produced just four stems in the first year.
Last year it got going with at least 12 stems and this year it is around 26, with maybe 20 flowers.
This may be because it stays in leaf much longer than other species.
It is probably in leaf for twice as long as something like macranthos,
David
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David,
My (one and only Cyp) calceolous is only just poking its growth out now (1cm). Is this normal for the species? And...
Have you moved to pure 'inorganics' now? I'm not going to re-pot my plant this season because it has gone from five growths to two but, come next Feb, should I move it to eg cat litter and Perlite?
I'm happy enough that it has survived a re-potting in mid season and a full Winter (so I must be on the right track). Should I go for a completely inert media next spring?
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Hud,
most of mine are either not showing buds or just visible.
It is just that formosanum is by far the earliest cyp.
Most of my plants are growing in 90% super coarse perlite plus 10% orchid bark.
There may be a few growing in 100% inorganics when I had run out of bark.
I do not think that the 10% really matters.
The pots are all topped with hydroleca as perlite is not pleasant to look at and can
slop out of the pots easily during watering.
What are you currently growing calceolus in?
Regards,
David
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I think it would be very helpful to newby growers if old hands using inert growing media also gave their watering/feeding routines.
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Brian,
there is plenty of information on cyp culture in previous years threads.
Try :-
http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=11591.0 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=11591.0)
and
http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=8913.0 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=8913.0)
and
http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=10506.0 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=10506.0)
and
http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=10027.0 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=10027.0)
Regards
David
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No Northern Irish garden centres with Cyps on display like that
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hello friends,
the first Cyp flowers for me this spring.
it is the original clone from Mr. Werner Frosch, who named this hybrid in 1992
to honour the famous first Cypripedium breeder, Mr. Carson E. Whitlow.
Cypripedium Carson (parviflorum X formosanum)
(http://www.imgbox.de/users/public/images/IUeu9LHi6J.JPG) (http://www.imgbox.de/)
enjoy
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Hi,
goofy - interesting 'historic' cyp.
These plants arrived today from China via Germany from Holger's nursery.
All are seed grown and ordered from their autumn list that was posted on this forum.
On the left is a true calcicola and the right are two tibeticums selected for flower quality.
The plants are decent enough with nice roots and shoots just beginning to grow.
However this source has been high risk in the past due to the extended time taken to
send plants all the way from China.
I have lost several of their plants.
However the tibeticums are from spectacular parents so I am taking the risk.
Regards,
David
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hey, nice information.........
.....good luck with the plants from Holger.
he is a good friend for about 25 years or so,
when he still lived in germany.
so say hello, when your write him back :)
cheers
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Hud,
most of mine are either not showing buds or just visible.
It is just that formosanum is by far the earliest cyp.
Most of my plants are growing in 90% super coarse perlite plus 10% orchid bark.
There may be a few growing in 100% inorganics when I had run out of bark.
I do not think that the 10% really matters.
The pots are all topped with hydroleca as perlite is not pleasant to look at and can
slop out of the pots easily during watering.
What are you currently growing calceolus in?
Regards,
David
It is in mostly Perlite but with a lot more than 10% organics. I'm fairly pleased in that it has survived one summer and one winter even though it now has fewer growths than when I got it.
Where do you get super coarse Perlite? Only ever seen the 4.5 grade.
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David,
They look like great plants - you should be fine!
I'm awaiting some too from the same shipment out of Germany. Apparently they were sent on 19th, but nothing yet. Do you know when yours were sent out? Surely not also on 19th?
Alex
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Hud,
A reduction from 5 to 2 buds from year 1 to 2 would be a concern.
I'd be inclined to repot your calceolus into almost pure perlite now and not wait another season.
There isn't any advantage in growth when using high levels of organics in pots.
It is just about getting your head round using an unusual compost.
You are just increasing the chances of various forms of rot with organics.
I buy my perlite in 100 litre bags from the local agricultural supply store.
You can buy it online. There are threads about it if you use the search function.
Alex -I am fairly sure that I received an e mail on the 19th saying that they were posted then,
Regards,
David
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Thanks, David - mine have arrived now too. They are great quality plants.
Alex
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Alex - good news.
Just remember that these are stressed plants, they need pampering.
If you can bring yourself to do the deed, flower buds are better cut off from these plants!
Keep the plants in a cool and wind free area for most of the season and stake the new growths.
David
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Hud,
A reduction from 5 to 2 buds from year 1 to 2 would be a concern.
I'd be inclined to repot your calceolus into almost pure perlite now and not wait another season.
There isn't any advantage in growth when using high levels of organics in pots.
It is just about getting your head round using an unusual compost.
You are just increasing the chances of various forms of rot with organics.
I buy my perlite in 100 litre bags from the local agricultural supply store.
You can buy it online. There are threads about it if you use the search function.
Alex -I am fairly sure that I received an e mail on the 19th saying that they were posted then,
Regards,
David
I take it that it is still early enough in the season to do much damage by re-potting?
I will get some Perlite this weekend (found a local 'hydroponics' supplier in town) and put it in a nice large pot. I have some cat-litter and aquarium gravel. Is there any downside to including some of this too? (say 70/20/10?)
Having killed Cyps in the past I'm probably making the ultimate beginners mistake of over care++ (not enough care last time obviously means even more care is required now!) This is why I was pleased that the thing survived a season with only a 5-->2 growth loss ::)
You are right that it is difficult to move to an entirely (alien) 'artificial' media. I'm starting to move 'problem' (house orchids) plants into bark and cat litter and they seem to be improving. I'm using transparent pots so that I can keep an eye on their progress without knocking them out of the pot. I don't have any massive transparent pots so I will just have to trust that it will do well.
So ... inorganic media (for various reasons), plenty of food over the growing season, a large pot for stability (mainly moisture/temperature) and a suitable spot in the garden where the pot won't get hot over summer or waterlogged over winter?
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Well I've been through the 'back issues'. Very interesting. Will probably still be reading them next week.
Thanks to everyone that has contributed to the subject over the last five years or so. I feel a lot more confident about growing Cyps having read the threads.
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Hud,
it is a bit of a culture shock to start to grow cyps in this media.
Not what most people are used to at all. It requires a different mentality.
I started off in this mix as it was recommended by the grower that started me off in cyps.
I'd never tried them in organics and never will.
I don't know about cat litter and gravel in the mix. Why go for a mixture?
100% perlite works fine.
Repotting now before the season starts will be OK.
I find the best growth is when you manage to keep the foliage as pristine as possible for as long as possible.
Anything that damages the leaves, especially early in the season, reduces their growth rate.
I'd be more inclined to go for a larger dark pot than a smaller transparent one.
They are not growing in 'soil' so you do not have to worry about 'souring' or any of the conventional issues with over potting.
I have very little in anything smaller than a 6 inch pot, even seedlings.
The buffering you get from the large pot is something that cyps with their restricted root system enjoy.
It also allows them to grow on for several seasons without disturbance which is something from which they benefit greatly.
Repotting is something I only do when necessary and that is just dropping on into a larger pot.
I keep my plants out of direct sun for most of the summer. It keeps the foliage in good condition.
This becomes very important if we have high temperatures.
I also water about twice a week on average but every day if it turns hot.
Depending on what you grow, I would give some rain protection to pots over winter.
I keep mine in an unheated garage and basically forget them from November to the beginning of March.
David
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Two quick questions from East Yorkshire ....
1) have you taken your cypripedium out of rain cover yet?
2) have you started watering yet?
3) have you fertilised yet?
I have fertilised yesterday with slow release fertiliser (thanks to Michae Weinart for sending the usual spring reminder), but mine are still under cover and have not been watered yet.
Regards
Corrado
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I check my pots every couple of days at this time of year and take them out of the garage as soon as I see any growth showing.
If the temperature is up they can push up shoots very quickly and etiolate badly.
They are then watered and fed the same day.
I will probably feed them every week during the time that the shoots and flowers are developing.
Full rate for hybrids and half rate for species.
They have a huge nitrogen requirement at this time of year as the growth is so rapid
and the rhizomes do not have the food reserves of a fat bulb.
I never use slow release fertilizers as I want as much control of this area as possible,
David
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Took the plunge today and re-potted it ... In cat litter. Couldn't get any Perlite locally on short notice.
There were only two growing points but the roots looked white and healthy.
I will get hold of some Perlite just in case it deteriorates.
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Hi,
about half fully out and now with eighteen flowers
out of 26 growths,
David
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You're in trouble now Mr David. It's getting dangerously close to Wednesday and I'm still reading 'back issues'. Currently on 'cyps in pots 2013' ::)
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Hi,
about half fully out and now with eighteen flowers
out of 26 growths,
David
Wow David I don't know how you manage this mine are taking their time to pop up but then again its been so cold here I really don't want to pop my head out either. Looking forward to see some more of your wonderful Cypripediums.
Angie :)
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Ridiculous weather you are having in Cambridgeshire - the cyps in my unheated polytunnel are only just through the ground here in Scotland.....
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The thing is that formosanum is always first to flower, by weeks if not months.. I have seen it on show benches in February. This depends on how much winter protection you give it. When I left mine with the others it sulked, though it survived. Last year after a winter in my frost free greenhouse it flowered for the first time. Now it has twelve shoots and eight flowers, which may not compare with David's, but then he is the Cyp God.
One question. I am not overly impressed with my plant as the flowers are so big, and too heavy for the shoots to support that they face down to the ground. Is this a species thing, do I have a poor clone or is it a cultural mistake? I don't really like staking cyps, it looks so wrong.
Michael and Lady Dorine will be next to flower here, but not before late April / early May, but about half my plants are still below ground.
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Steve,
can you post a photo of your cyp formosanum?
Has the plant become a bit etiolated due to lack of light where it has been growing?
I have not come across this problem before.
Richard - formosanum is definitely an outlier species.
It is usually a month ahead of anything else and great for extending the season.
The most advanced 'other' cyp I grow is a hybrid Inge where the shoots are about an inch high.
I have nearly half the collection at present still in the garage with no visible shoots.
As plants get older and bigger I generally find that they become slightly earlier to develop in spring,
Regards,
David
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Funny how taking photographs makes you look at things closely. I have slightly misinterpreted the problem with my formosanum. Part of the trouble is the dorsal sepal never stands up and so hides the rest of the flower so I think it is a clonal thing. Still not impressed.
By the way, the leaves are no where near as yellow as the photo suggests. This seems to be an issue with my camera. A judge even commented on it the last time I entered some photos in a competition. But of course he could not tell me how to correct it.
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Steve,
I'd agree with your assessment. It looks clonal.
will post a photo of mine for comparison soon,
David
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as promised, the formosanum almost fully open.
The flowers look very similar to Steve's,
it is just the leaves that are holding them up,
David
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as promised, the formosanum almost fully open.
The flowers look very similar to Steve's,
it is just the leaves that are holding them up,
David
Lovely 8) I had my first day looking at my Cypripediums. I think I have lost a few, I just haven't had the time to look after my plants ( family commitments ). Funny all the plants that I had got from Anthony Darby are still doing well. Anthony can you come back to Scotland and grow some more plants for me.
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as promised, the formosanum almost fully open.
The flowers look very similar to Steve's,
it is just the leaves that are holding them up,
David
Mine is growing on me David! The dorsals have gone white but are still quite droopy.
Yesterday I saw one that Jeff Hutchins was taking to the European Orchid Show in London. It had thirty plus flowers, with each dorsal standing bolt upright, although the flowers were much smaller than mine. Am helping on his stand for the next few days so will post a photograph later for comparison.
Although I am not wild about my plant's flowers I cannot fault it's vigour. Like yours it has bulked up massively in the last twelve months.
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Lovely 8) I had my first day looking at my Cypripediums. I think I have lost a few, I just haven't had the time to look after my plants ( family commitments ). Funny all the plants that I had got from Anthony Darby are still doing well. Anthony can you come back to Scotland and grow some more plants for me.
Wouldn't mind being back in Dunblane this Saturday. The Cathedral Choir are singing at a certain wedding, and a friend and former colleague is doing the music for the reception. When he was originally booked he wasn't told whose wedding, and that it was to be at Gleneagles!
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Steve,
Jeff probably has access to different clones of formosanum, being in the trade.
Interesting to see the variation that is present in the species.
I'd love to see a plant with 30 flowers.
Mine will definitely need a repot next autumn if I can find a suitable shallow pot.
Angie - I have lost three this winter, all species.
Unfortunately they were all rather choice - a tibeticum from Holger Perner, a segawai and one of
my two alba ventricosums.
Two of these could be put down to last year's non winter and the other who knows?
This is par for the course - I don't think I've had one year when I did not lose something over winter
David
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Wouldn't mind being back in Dunblane this Saturday. The Cathedral Choir are singing at a certain wedding, and a friend and former colleague is doing the music for the reception. When he was originally booked he wasn't told whose wedding, and that it was to be at Gleneagles!
Wouldn't mind going to Gleneagles myself. Cant imagine how much a wedding would cost there, scary I would think.
Angie :)
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Steve,
Jeff probably has access to different clones of formosanum, being in the trade.
Interesting to see the variation that is present in the species.
I'd love to see a plant with 30 flowers.
Mine will definitely need a repot next autumn if I can find a suitable shallow pot.
Angie - I have lost three this winter, all species.
Unfortunately they were all rather choice - a tibeticum from Holger Perner, a segawai and one of
my two alba ventricosums.
Two of these could be put down to last year's non winter and the other who knows?
This is par for the course - I don't think I've had one year when I did not lose something over winter
David
I too would love to see 30 flowers and would be even happier if I had the plant ;D .
David not sure why I lost a few of mine. I also lost a few of my South African plants as well. I don't feel as bad now knowing that the expert has lost a plant or two over the years ;). Looking forward to see pictures of your wonderful plants again this season.
Angie :)
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Wouldn't mind going to Gleneagles myself. Cant imagine how much a wedding would cost there, scary I would think.
Angie :)
Fortunately neither the wedding nor the reception is at Gleneagles. Having your own hotel does help with the costs though. ;D I'm going to be visiting this page to see how cyps are doing this year.
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Anthony I too will be visiting this page, Looking forward to see everyones pictures of their cyps. Just great to watch the buds emerge and then show the beautiful flowers. I really love Cyps and this is thanks to you and this forum :)
Angie :)
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as promised, the formosanum almost fully open.
The flowers look very similar to Steve's,
it is just the leaves that are holding them up,
David
Stunning pot David! I wished mine is as vigrous as yours, bought it last year and has not multiplied.
But very happy it survived the winter. These pretty ladies have some make up on their pouches ;)
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My first one in flower is also C. formosanum. I grow mine (and all my Cyps) in an organic based medium which is 2 parts fine composted bark, 1 part Melcourt Potting Bark, 1 part Supercoarse Perlite and 2 parts leafmould - so 80% organic ingredients. I have tried growing Cyps in inorganic mediums like those mentioned by others here, but these have never worked for me. As you can see from the picture, growing in organic mediums can be very successful. Just proves the common advice that finding what works for you is what much growing is all about.
Paul
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Really nice and good to see what works for you.
Angie :)
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In wet areas it would be certain death, but if you can control the water it should be fine.
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Paul,
that is a super plant!
David
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Here's my formosanum down under, last year. Had a discussion with a fellow orchid grower today and we investigated some potting mixes I have been experimenting with. This formosanum is growing in complete organics and loving it so are the hybrids, like Pauls potting mix but with out the leaf mould, i use coco fibre instead. I have some parviflorums in inorganics (perlite and seramis) and 10% bark fines 15mm and after 5 years in the same mix its becoming hydrophobic(hard to rewet). I found the top layer moist but halfway down the pot was bone dry and some dead black roots. I leave my collection out in the weather in winter, exposed to rain although we don't get that much rain in winter not like the northern hemisphere. I use to cover them but was troublesome, I found that I would water them once a month to keep them just moist.
I've also found that potting up or just changing into fresh mix after 4 years would be beneficial. Some are in equal parts diatomite and perlite and doing very well. Organics can go sour, worms move in, salinity, compaction, fungi mycelium can dry out organic mix too.
Not too sure about Perlite compacting or going sour, maybe that may be an advantage but in our warmer summers the mix would dry out too quick. I only water once a week with organics and diatomite/perlite mixes.
I'm using diatomite, perlite, quarts sand, decomposed bark 5mm and clinker ash potted in big clay bowl lined in plastic to keep roots cool and easier to water a big pot than a small one. Cyp roots are known to travel for meters in the wild in the top layers of humus and the bowls fill up with Cypripedium shoots like this running formosanum.
cheers
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Stephen,
interesting to hear your thoughts.
Great to see the formosanum and hear your thoughts about composts.
I don't find the super coarse perlite becoming hydrophobic with time.
If anything it absorbs more water judging by the weight of older pots.
I have had some plants in the same pot for over 5 years with no problems.
The only issue is the odd earthworm that can introduce too many organic components and cause some rot.
here are the largest pots of hybrids just about to burst into flower,
Regards,
David
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The easy way to keep wildlife out of your pots is to put in a layer or two of shade net, cut to fit the base inside of the pot, just over the drainage holes. Drainage is not impaired. It's cheap, easy and works perfectly for years :)
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Hello David...yes good to see your amazing hybrid collection still going strong!
Yes I did wonder how long you keep yours in pots before repotting....
I did some up sizing today of parviflorum and kentuckiensis and inspected the roots.. The parviflorum had some dead surface roots but the majority were very healthy spiraling and going down. The kentuckiensis had a root system that just went down and all healthy. I think with my climate the surface tends to dry out too quick. We do get temps of 30c plus in summer and I dont allways water every day maybe one a week with a good soak by irrigation.
I made some observations with the new perlite and diatomite mix because its dry coming out of bags a 250mm pot can easily absorb 10 litres from a watering can. When I first poured 5 litres I thought it was enough but it only went half way down. The perlite did something similar. Perlite and diatomite can take and store alot of water.
I think I just didn't give then enough water and the water must have been running down the sides of the pots as well.
You must get alot of rain in summer? and do you ever get 30c?
cheers
Stephen
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Steven,
in the breadbasket of the Uk in sunny East Anglia we get around 26 inches a year on average and it is pretty well spread out.
I cannot rely on summer rain to water the pots so if it gets hot -up towards 25 degrees, I water nearly every day.
At present in spring it is more like once to twice a week.
It is very interesting to hear just how much water super coarse perlite holds in a pot.
It must provide a huge amount of buffering to the plants and ensure that they never run short especially in our climate.
We see 30 degrees once or twice a summer on average but never for very long - 2-3 days and then the weather breaks down with thunderstorms.
An average summer day will be low twenties.
The Uk has one of the most equable climates in the world thanks to the gulf stream and very low levels of abiotic stress.
Compared to the rest of the world we see very few extreme weather events.
This is the main reason they grow so well here.
Cyps can take 30 degrees as long as they are shaded and well watered.
The foliage stays pristine and green for a long time and allows the plant quickly to build up food stores for the following year,
regards,
David
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Dave that's interesting about your rainfall I thought you had a whole lot more than me. So I can see why you water twice a week. We tend to get more temperature extremes and rainfall can be irratic. Oh i know they can handle the 30s well. In the shade its allways cool i even sink them in a gravel bed and over pot to buffer temps. Surprisingly they do well.
Do you have Kentuckiensis and does it clump?I think I need to feed it more if thats the case my lot are all single buds
cheers
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The easy way to keep wildlife out of your pots is to put in a layer or two of shade net, cut to fit the base inside of the pot, just over the drainage holes. Drainage is not impaired. It's cheap, easy and works perfectly for years :)
Equally, the nets used to pack garlic, onions an fruits work a treat. You save them and cut them to size when you need (so you also recycle and pollute less, and they cost zero because you buy them in any case).
Here are examples of different nets cut to size for pots:
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
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Stephen,
I have grown kentuckiense twice and they both grow and multiplied well but then succumbed to rot.
The last one was last year when there were at least 10 growths.
Here is a photo of the protection I give the plants when frosts are forecast.
The fleece is only left on the plants overnight and comes off in the morning,
David
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David that's a shame with the kentuckiensis and one that can handle wet conditions in spring where they naturally occur it can flood and plants have been seen to be under water for a period but whose to say they survived that natural occurance..
Yours succumb to rot, during the growing season? When its warm and wet and especially with congested plants, pithium can attack perennials from the ground up, can destroy leaves, rhizomes and roots. Its too late when its seen in leaves. Im not exactly sure what fungus or bacterias would cause this with Cypripediums. Do you know what attack yours?
Hygiene is the best preventative, keeping pot plants off the ground especially where water can transfer soil born diseases. Pasteurize mixes. And separating plants. I don't like growing them in black pots exposed to the sun where they can absorb heat, the soil can heat up and roots can cook or dry out.
to keep the roots cool I sink my pots in gravel but off the ground or running water and the large ones are in large clay pots but on the ground and I do worry but then these are in organic mixes.Too many variables.
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Cyps grown in pots don't need fungal mycelium and it can actually be a liability. I always drenched mine with fungicide.
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Cypripedium formosanum
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8694/17313300392_4e79990e3c_o.jpg)
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8730/16692695054_6eef974d0f_o.jpg)
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cypripedium japonicum
Edit to add a pic of this orchid from Hakone in the past- 2011
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Cypripedium japonicum
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8694/17313300392_4e79990e3c_o.jpg)
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8730/16692695054_6eef974d0f_o.jpg)
It's Cypripedium formosanum Steve, japonicum has green petals and slightly different shaped pouch: http://www.orchidspecies.com/cypjaponicum.htm (http://www.orchidspecies.com/cypjaponicum.htm)
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Steve,
still superbly photographed as ever!
David
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It is very interesting to hear just how much water super coarse perlite holds in a pot.
It's approximately 225ml of water per litre of coarse perlite ;)
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It's Cypripedium formosanum Steve, japonicum has green petals and slightly different shaped pouch: http://www.orchidspecies.com/cypjaponicum.htm (http://www.orchidspecies.com/cypjaponicum.htm)
This photo of Cyp. japonicum is from the forum, from the late Hans Hoeller
[attachimg=1]
See also these photos in the Forum :
http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=11591.msg303314#msg303314 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=11591.msg303314#msg303314)
http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=10027.msg276623#msg276623 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=10027.msg276623#msg276623)
http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=5129.msg152555#msg152555 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=5129.msg152555#msg152555)
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It's Cypripedium formosanum Steve, japonicum has green petals and slightly different shaped pouch: http://www.orchidspecies.com/cypjaponicum.htm (http://www.orchidspecies.com/cypjaponicum.htm)
Thanks!
This explains why it has grown so well.
I bought it as a young japonicum from a German grower a couple of years ago.
Perhaps I need to check plant details more carefully when looking through the viewfinder of a camera! ;)
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cypripedium japonicum
[attach=2]
[attach=1]
[attach=3]
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cypripedium Lady Dorine
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As an experiment I have uploaded a short video of the current state of my plants onto YouTube called cypripediums in pots two.
It sits alongside cyps in pots one which I made two years ago.
The experiment is only partially successful as it was made with the video function on the new iPad and is shown in portrait rather than landscape which cuts out much of the picture.
However I will try again when more flowers are open.
I may even add a commentary as Ian does!
If anyone wants to view it you will have to search for it using the title as I have still to get to grips with the apple way of doing things.
I am sure that it must be very easy if only I knew how.
Anyway the only plant with open flowers is a nice fasciolatum with about 9 blooms.
This plants also has a fantastic scent when the weather isn't cold and gloomy.
The other plant of fasciolatum is nowhere near as strongly scented.
This scent has been passed onto just one of several fasciolatum hybrids, a nice plant of Sunny.
Regards,
David
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Cyps in pots 1
Cypripediums in pots (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDTe_NB52fg#)
Cyps in pots 2
Cypripediums in pots two. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACHka5iD1OY#)
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Mark - thanks,
David
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Mark,
wonderful plants from a very skilful grower - superb!
Perhaps in your next video you mention the name of the hybrids - one would know better what to look for.
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Very nice, David. Lovely specimens.
Here is Cypripedium farreri from Hengduan this year.
Alex
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Very nice, David. Lovely specimens.
Here is Cypripedium farreri from Hengduan this year.
Alex
Very nice!!!
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This time last year I was a happy bunny as my Cypripedium japonicum had flowered for the first time. Things are still heading in the right direction with three flowers this year, but on ten growths, and it could have been five flowers except two aborted, (frost / dryness I am not sure). I looked back on the forum but all I could find were single flower pictures, so here's a few questions to growers of japonicum. Do you find it a reliable, easy flowerer? Does anyone have a large plant covered in flowers? Does everyone find formosanum miles easier to grow and flower?
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Steve, I don't grow japonicum but that is certainly its reputation, much harder to grow than its close relative. Your plant is exceptional for a specimen in this country - well done!
Alex
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Crikey Alex! That should guarantee that I kill it this year!
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another japonicum
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cypripedium x ventricosum yellow
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cypripedium henryi
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Hi,
after a long cool April that has delayed flowering the plants have finally started to deliver.
First up are a couple of fasciolatums. One has a nice light yellow lip, not obvious in the photos and a lovely scent, whilst the other has a pure white lip and a much weaker scent.
Next is froschii. This plant is a bit smaller this year but still doing Ok.
Last is one of the select tibeticums from Holger Perner this spring.
The plants is quite dwarf and should grow much bigger in future years,
David
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Hi,
first up is Gabriela ( fasciolatum x kentuckiense) and this plant is grow larger every year.
About 35 stems and flowers this year.
Next is Inge. This has fully recovered from a severe transplant shock a few years ago and now
has about 25 stems and flowers.
Next is Michael with its small but brightly coloured flowers.
This year two of the stems each have three flowers,
something that this clone has not achieved for at least three years.
Regards,
David
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Hi,
another form of Michael, the alba form using macranthos alba.
This clone always has light green flowers closer in colour to its other parent henryi.
many stems carry two flowers but it is probably not quite mature enough to produce
three flowers per stem.
Michael has thin growths and this year I have had to stake both plants to keep them upright.
Now that the stems are fully grown and mature they can probably now stay unstaked,
David
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cypripedium shanxiense
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cypripedium henryi
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A friend has just written:
My mystery cypripedium from upton village hall plant sale many years ago has now flowered. Slightly underwhelmed after such a long wait but perhaps unfairly I'm comparing it to hybrids.
It's 6.inches tall, the head is 1 inch long and the leaves 2 inches wide, so very smallish. I have taken photos next to a Michael (Slightly wind battered after last week) as a comparison.
Any help to ID it would be appreciated.
She enclosed the following pictures, anyone able to help please? Thanks in advance.
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Brian - it could be any short red hybrid like Gisela or x ventricosum.
On another note I have made second short video this time with rather stuttering commentary on the cyps currently in flower.
This time the clip is in landscape and HD so hopefully will be easier to watch.
It is called rather unimaginatively cypripediums in pots three on YouTube.
Thanks
David
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cypripedium parviflorum var. planipetalum
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cypripedium Aki
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cypripedium Gisela
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Some nice Cypripediums there. Don't know what I did wrong this year but mine are well back, don't think they will be ready for our show and I don't want to try and force them on. Oh well at least they never died ::)
Angie :)
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Hi David,
Great video..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbR94cTc_2U (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbR94cTc_2U)
What is the name of the larger (look like) pottery balls top dressing some of the pots?
Tim DH
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Tim
I am not sure what they are called. They may be a large form of hydroleca. I bought them from the local hydroponics store when I could not get the usual stuff.
They are a bit big for what I want and I will not be suing them again.
David
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some nice plants shown here
Here is one of mine in the garden Cyp Axel
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Reposted because of possible misidentification?
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This is a new calcicola from Holger Perner bought a few months ago.
Smaller than tibeticum and much darker.
Holger states that this is a true form of the species and not just a dark tibeticum,
David
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Gabriela
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Rascal and Aki
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Rascal and Aki
Hakone - Does your Phyllostachys aureosulcata have a barrier around it? If so how do you keep it looking so luxuriant?
johnw
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Yes , Phyllostachys aureosulcata harbin inversa have a barrier around it . I give them
NPK fertilizers.
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Another iPad video hopefully this time with a better commentary.
The plants are probably at their peak.
https://youtu.be/zP0KlMZe8bE
David
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Thanks for the information Hakone, Harbin-Inversa is a very good one but yours looks great.
john
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Another iPad video hopefully this time with a better commentary.
The plants are probably at their peak.
https://youtu.be/zP0KlMZe8bE
David
Well, thats me so jealous, brilliant plants and so well grown. Thanks for showing this lovely video.
Angie :)
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Another iPad video
David
Keep them coming - something for us beginners to aim for :o
A possibly inflammatory ::) question though... I'm getting a little confused regarding the naming of plants.
Here was my understanding of 'naming' (translated into Sarracenia*)... I cross any 'flava' with any leucophylla and I get a moorei. Should I get an interesting seedling from the cross then I name it eg. 'Brooks'. 'Brooks' now becomes a particular result of the cross and the only way I can obtain a 'Brooks' is by vegetative propagation. I can never re-create 'Brooks' by re-crossing flava and leucophylla or, indeed crossing 'Brooks' with itself.
How does this work with Cyps? If I purchase a Cypripedium "Ulla Silkens", am I buying a clone or a (similar parentage) cross that might look like 'the photo'?
I don't mind either way, it is just that I would like to know how this works with cyps. I understand the idea that eg pubescens x shanxiense is a 'chance purchase' of a seedling from that cross but surely if I purchase a 'named' plant then I'm getting a clone of the named plant and not the random result of a 'similar cross'?
*small family of plants.
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Hud
When you buy a named cross you are buying a seedling with all the variation that this implies.
There are almost no clones of cyps available.
So Ulla Silkens is the result of a cross between any clone of flavum ( quite a bit a flower variation there) and reginae ( less variation in this species).
Depending on how they nick together you can have seedlings with little or a lot of variation in flower shape, colour, plant size etc etc.
So knowing which parents were used in a cross can be useful in predicting what the seedlings will look like.
There are a range of hybrids now using either a coloured macranthos or the alba form.
This white form tends to be dominant in the flower colour of the resulting seedlings whereas the coloured form produces reddish purple flowers.
But they are all the same hybrid or 'grex'.
The point about most of the popular cyp crosses is that there is some variation but generally not to much.
A photo will be a decent representation of what you should see in a seedling.
It is likely that in the future named clones will become available but this will take quite some time due to their slow rate of increase.
David
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Further to David's answer, Ulla Silkens is equivalent to moorei in your Sarracenia example. The names look different as the Sarracenia hybrids occur naturally and so are written as x moorei, or x courtii. The x indicates a naturally occurring hybrid. The only commonly available Cyp which is a natural hybrid is Cypripedium x ventricosum. All the rest are man made and so are written with a capital letter e.g. Cypripedium Ulla Silkens.
As David says there are very few examples of anyone naming individual plants. The only time I have seen anyone take it a step further is when submitting plants for RHS awards. For example in 2013 Jeff Hutchins submitted Cypripedium Vicky's Delight "Laneside Susan" and received an Award of Merit. If he ever divided that plant each piece would carry that name with it.
And two seconds after I posted I remembered Cypripedium Sebastian "Frosch's Mountain King" which is a selected clone of C. Sebastian. Every plant of this clone will be genetically identical, but even then that does not mean that they will all look identical as environmental factors will have an influence.
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A quick trawl around the Sarracenia websites may have revealed another source of your confusion. They tend to just list the cultivar name, such as Sarracenia "Adrian Slack", when the full name would be Sarracenia x moorei "Adrian Slack". Not saying anyone is right or wrong, just different ways of doing things.
I have noticed this alternative way creeping into orchids, e.g. People selling Pleione Verdi, not Pleione formosana Verdi. It certainly confused me as I assumed that this was a new hybrid, rather than a clone of a species. Then of course we have the use of trade names, e.g Cypripedium Parville, Kentucky.
Confusing, you bet!
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A quick trawl around the Sarracenia websites may have revealed another source of your confusion. They tend to just list the cultivar name, such as Sarracenia "Adrian Slack", when the full name would be Sarracenia x moorei "Adrian Slack". Not saying anyone is right or wrong, just different ways of doing things.
I have noticed this alternative way creeping into orchids, e.g. People selling Pleione Verdi, not Pleione formosana Verdi. It certainly confused me as I assumed that this was a new hybrid, rather than a clone of a species. Then of course we have the use of trade names, e.g Cypripedium Parville, Kentucky.
Confusing, you bet!
I think that, because sarracenia is such a small family, the "Adrian Slack" usually misses out the 'moorei' unless it could be confused with another cultivar.
So is it best to assume, with Orchids generally, that eg 'Ulla Silkens' denotes a cross rather than a cloned cultivar? Unless of course it's a named clone such as you might find with Catts or Phalaenopsis ::)
If I were to buy Phrag 'Sorceror's Apprentice' then I would be getting a generic cross between sargentianum and longifolium but if I got Phrag. Sorcerer's Apprentice 'Sunset Valley Orchids' then I would be getting a clone? (assuming the seller was reliable)
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Certainly correct on the Phragmipediums front, and I think with most tropical orchids bought from reliable specialist growers. With garden centre or supermarket plants you will be lucky to get anything close to an accurate name, possibly not even a correct genus.
But it is a little more complicated with the hardies. I think you are right with everything except Dactylorhizas where there are named cultivars such as Harold Esslemont or Bressingham Bonus, and Pleione where of course there are many many named cultivars.
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Here is one of my spotted leaf Chinese Cyps. These have a reputation to be difficult, although this Cypripedium fargesii is regarded as one of the easier species. Well, the German nursery where I got this from is growing it in the same way as all the other species. Raised from seed, these Cyps grow in community pots for the first two to three years and are then transferred in raised beds and grown until flowering size before being sold. The soil is all the same for every species: a mix of potting soil, sand and perlite. They experience all the weather is giving them all through the year. Only a shade cloth is provided and kept dry in the winter. I have seen dozens of plants of these in the beds, all growing well.
These Cyps had the reputation of being difficult and advice was given not to water the plant from above in order to avoid any water on the leaves. Leaf rot and the death of the plant would be the result and therefore these should never be grown outside, better left in the greenhouse. Leaves should also never touch the soil or rot will also appear. Considering the way these plants grow in nature, these advices seems rather odd in my opinion. Coming from high elevations in China, these Cyps experience lots and lost of rain in the growing season, so leafs get (very) wet inevitably in nature. What is key is the windy conditions, that make the plants dry up rather fast. So, what these plants were experiencing in greenhouses is moist, stale and not so fresh conditions so less favourable than they do in the wild. And I think this is the reason (next to wild dug plants) why these plants had a difficult time in culture.
My plants are outside all the time getting their portion of rain, but also wind. They are very healthy and are growing extra shoots. In the fall they will get a spot in the garden. I have Cypripedium lichiangense here in pots too, but from another nursery, who grows them quite the same way. All seed raised and not more difficult than other Cypripedium species. The advantage of this is that seedlings that grow to flowering sized specimens the way I described adapted to the weather regime of our climate and have all the possibilities to grow in nice specimens as all other species or hybrids we know. You only have to keep in mind what they experience in the wild. Keep the plants dry in the winter.
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John
Nice photo and very interesting post. Good to hear that these species are more growable than we thought,
David
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Terrific advice on your experience with these Cyps, John, thank you!
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A few more single larger plants flowering now.
These are x ventricosum alba, Ingrid, Lucy Pinkepank, Sunny and finally Sabine.
David
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Here is one of my spotted leaf Chinese Cyps. These have a reputation to be difficult, although this Cypripedium fargesii is regarded as one of the easier species. Well, the German nursery where I got this from is growing it in the same way as all the other species. Raised from seed, these Cyps grow in community pots for the first two to three years and are then transferred in raised beds and grown until flowering size before being sold. The soil is all the same for every species: a mix of potting soil, sand and perlite. They experience all the weather is giving them all through the year. Only a shade cloth is provided and kept dry in the winter. I have seen dozens of plants of these in the beds, all growing well.
These Cyps had the reputation of being difficult and advice was given not to water the plant from above in order to avoid any water on the leaves. Leaf rot and the death of the plant would be the result and therefore these should never be grown outside, better left in the greenhouse. Leaves should also never touch the soil or rot will also appear. Considering the way these plants grow in nature, these advices seems rather odd in my opinion. Coming from high elevations in China, these Cyps experience lots and lost of rain in the growing season, so leafs get (very) wet inevitably in nature. What is key is the windy conditions, that make the plants dry up rather fast. So, what these plants were experiencing in greenhouses is moist, stale and not so fresh conditions so less favourable than they do in the wild. And I think this is the reason (next to wild dug plants) why these plants had a difficult time in culture.
My plants are outside all the time getting their portion of rain, but also wind. They are very healthy and are growing extra shoots. In the fall they will get a spot in the garden. I have Cypripedium lichiangense here in pots too, but from another nursery, who grows them quite the same way. All seed raised and not more difficult than other Cypripedium species. The advantage of this is that seedlings that grow to flowering sized specimens the way I described adapted to the weather regime of our climate and have all the possibilities to grow in nice specimens as all other species or hybrids we know. You only have to keep in mind what they experience in the wild. Keep the plants dry in the winter.
Thanks John this is an amazing plant, It think you must have got the conditions perfectly. Also thanks for the notes and advice.
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Cypripedium guttatum
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5458/17897517442_358c1a2872_o.jpg)
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cypripedium kentuckiense x microsanos
These dark flowers are very attractive against the rich green of the foliage. They look so healthy!
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Unfortunately, after last week's weather rollecoaster, Cypripedium margaritaceum ready to flower got stem rot .... :( .... I hope it will survive.
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Regards
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I repost here again, because of misidentification. The recently flowered Cypripedium tibeticum seems to actually be Cypripedium calcicola: it misses the white rim and it does have the translucence windows at the back of the lip. What do you think?
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There are tibeticums without the white rim around. Not sure about the windows.
All the photos of calcicola I have seen are of very dark flowers.
In the macranthos/tibeticum complex there are lots of muddy waters as regards classification,
So in the end you may be right,
David
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Hello superb pictures everyone I post pictures of what I have as Cypripedium tibeticum flowering this week in a raised bed ordinary garden soil with grit and a little leaf mould cheers Ian the Christie kind
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Hello superb pictures everyone I post pictures of what I have as Cypripedium tibeticum flowering this week in a raised bed ordinary garden soil with grit and a little leaf mould cheers Ian the Christie kind
What a lovely Cypripedium tibeticum and I was lucky to see it in the flesh today. Iain has so many Cypripediums planted in his garden so he has given me encouragement to try some in my garden. Today I was like a kid in a sweetie shop, what an amazing amount of plants so many that I would love to have. I better get my plant piggy bank full before my next visit.
Oh forgot to mention the lovely Banana and apricot cake that we had there, I had two slices. Lovely day out :)
Angie :)
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There are tibeticums without the white rim around. Not sure about the windows.
All the photos of calcicola I have seen are of very dark flowers.
In the macranthos/tibeticum complex there are lots of muddy waters as regards classification,
So in the end you may be right,
David
It seems that the really defining feature is the translucent windows at the back. If I can get a picture of it without damaging the plant I will show it.
PS: I go by identification keys on the CHEN Lijun, CHEN Singchi, LI Liqiang, LIU Zhongjian, The Genus Cypripedium in China. 2013. Publishing Science Press Beijing, China.
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Hello superb pictures everyone I post pictures of what I have as Cypripedium tibeticum flowering this week in a raised bed ordinary garden soil with grit and a little leaf mould cheers Ian the Christie kind
Wow! What beautiful plant and colour Ian, thanks!
Regards
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Ian,
super plant but I would have my doubts as to whether it is a pure tibeticum.
It looks very much like the hybrid Pixi.
I have not yet seen any form of the species flower with that red-brown colour.
The fact that it can grow out in the garden is also a clue.
True tibeticums like a very dry winter and I doubt that they get that in Scotland!
David
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Here are the pictures of the translucent windows at the back.
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Best,
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I once read that north east of Scotland is the second driest part of the UK, with Kelvedon in Essex being the driest. I am really loving these photos of beautifully grown plants. I wish I had been brave enough to try John's so eloquently put suggestions about growing these spotted Cyps. In one of my next lives I will try this. The growing of these plants has moved so far since I departed Escocia.
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Hello all thanks for all the suggestions for my Cypripedium which has been in the garden for at least 10 years and have split it a few times the raised bed where it grows in vey well drained gets frozen in winter so what ever it is I love it, cheers Ian the Christie kind
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Coming the the end of the hybrid season with the kentuckiense hybrids.
The first two are both Lucy Pinkepank, with tibeticum. The plants and flowers are both huge.
Next is a pale form of tibeticum and finally a small flowered form of x ventricosum,
David
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Cypripediums featured on a few stands at the Chelsea Flower Show last week which is no surprise as they make a great display.
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it's the beginning of the flowering season for Cypripedium here
1. Cypripedium ventricosum
2. Cypripedium Emil
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I think this might be like on another post - Can you name this snowdrop
Does anyone know which commercial Cyp this is? Could it be 'Pueblo'? Is it known by anything else as in species?
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Could well be Pueblo, in which case the general consensus is that it is Cypripedium parviflorum var. pubescens.
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OK friends,
I agree.
fairly sure it is Cyp. pubesccens.
"Pueblo" is a commercial name from the dutch "producer"
you can see another (selected) cultivar im MY topic "goofys Cyps 2015"
cheers
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wow nice Cyps this year..
Does anyone know the cultivar name or have picks of Cyp parviflorum var maksin X yunanense?
and Cyp vetricosum X tibeticum?
These maybe new crosses that are getting around as they don't seem to be registered on the frosch web site of list of hybrids.. I think they're coming from a hybridizer in China
cheers
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wow nice Cyps this year..
Does anyone know the cultivar name or have picks of Cyp parviflorum var maksin X yunanense?
and Cyp vetricosum X tibeticum?
These maybe new crosses that are getting around as they don't seem to be registered on the frosch web site of list of hybrids.. I think they're coming from a hybridizer in China
cheers
Sorry cannot help as neither cross produces an answer on the International Orchid Register.
I did notice that the Frosch list does not go down to varieties so not helpful when the search is as specific as yours.
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Hi Hakone,
your Cypripedium lentiginosum (spelling!) is very pretty. I wish I could grow that, have tried a couple of times but I think the English climate is unsuitable (my excuse). ;)
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wow nice Cyps this year..
Does anyone know the cultivar name or have picks of Cyp parviflorum var maksin X yunanense?
and Cyp vetricosum X tibeticum?
These maybe new crosses that are getting around as they don't seem to be registered on the frosch web site of list of hybrids.. I think they're coming from a hybridizer in China
cheers
Maybe searches with the following spellings might help?
Cypripedium parviflorum var makasin X yunnanense and Cypripedium ventricosum X tibeticum ?
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I did my searches with the right spellings but these crosses are not registered however you spell them.
A lot of red ink flying about today. ;D
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Not criticising -but I know that spelling can make big difference to search results gained.
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Don't talk to me about spelling. :(
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I happened to be using the hybrid register when I saw Stephen's message. I was trying and failing to track down names for several Epipactis hybrids and being driven round the bend by predictive text. Marei always changes to marie etc. At least I have now bothered to turn it off and so any future mistakes will be my own fault.
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got as a cutting in 2010 this Cyp. yatabeanum let me wait 5 years for a flower. a slow grower in my garden, 3 stems in 5 years.
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my Cyp. guttattum stock increased from 1 stem in 2004 to 22 stems this year but unfortunately only 1 flowered this year. i guess the last year was too dry + i neglected watering too much. the subtrate is a mix of lava + red-brick grit + this substrate dry out rather quick. this year i gave them a bit fertilizer + water regularly + hope for good flowering next year. here an older pic ;)
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i planted the natural hybrid Cyp. x alaskanum (guttatum x yatabeanum) 2 years before and unfortunately lost 2 of them. one started to flower this year but the bud wasn't strong enough to flower + died back. maybe the late frost in april could also be the reason for the small flower bud. but the plant looks still healthy. to show the mix of both species in this hybrid here a pic from last year.
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Don't we like a bargain ;D. Local garden centre price £18.99 each reduced to £5. I did ask when were they going to reduce them ;) ;D Bought 6 at that price I will try them in my garden.
Angie :)
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my Cyp. guttattum stock increased from 1 stem in 2004 to 22 stems this year but unfortunately only 1 flowered this year. i guess the last year was too dry + i neglected watering too much. the subtrate is a mix of lava + red-brick grit + this substrate dry out rather quick. this year i gave them a bit fertilizer + water regularly + hope for good flowering next year. here an older pic ;)
Beautiful guttatum! I also see a wardii in your profile picture is that yours?!
Corrado
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Splendid. What conditions and compost do you use? The plant looks very healthy!
Corrado
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Hi Hakone,
That's actually a C. lichiangense rather than lentiginosum, lovely plant and flower anyway though.
Cheers,
Alex
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................
Does anyone know the cultivar name or have picks of Cyp parviflorum var maksin X yunanense?
and Cyp vetricosum X tibeticum?
cheers
hi,
there is no registered hybrid from the ventricosum X tibeticum,
BUT there is a hybrid parvifl. X yunnanense., named John, registered by W. Frosch in 2006
it does not make a difference, if used the var. makasin or var. parviflorum.
its always the "basic" name "John" :)
but will have a "Group" name then (John "yourname" Group)
look here:
http://apps.rhs.org.uk/horticulturaldatabase/orchidregister/orchiddetails.asp?ID=155194 (http://apps.rhs.org.uk/horticulturaldatabase/orchidregister/orchiddetails.asp?ID=155194)
cheers
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Hi Hakone,
That's actually a C. lichiangense rather than lentiginosum, lovely plant and flower anyway though.
Cheers,
Alex
Hi Alex,
Cypripedium lichiangense , the leaves are glossy. Photo from 2013
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Cypripedium lentiginosum , the leaves are dull
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cheers,
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cypripedium lentiginosum
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cypripedium lichiangense
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Cypripedium lichiangense in process
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Hi
Final video of the season.
https://youtu.be/zP0KlMZe8bE
Cyps in pots five
Regards
David
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Hi Hakone,
Nice pictures! I would agree that C. lentiginosum has matte rather than glossy leaves (although I don't know how consistent a feature that is), but all those plants you've posted have glossy leaves to my eye, it's just that the intensity of the red spotting varies. I also don't know about how diagnostically useful the flower stem colour is; on the nursery page below is what I think of as a classic lentiginosum, and its stem is red like a lichiangense....
http://www.canursery.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=149 (http://www.canursery.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=149)
Cheers,
Alex
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Cypripedium lichiangense in process
One important distinctive feature is that the petals are approximately twice as long as the lip in lentiginosum, and only 3 to 2 compared to the lip in lichiangense.
I would say that Hakone interpretation seems to be correct from the pictures, but it is very difficult to estimate it from the pictures only.
On last thing: if evaluating on the base of the leaves only, it is important to keep into the equation also daweishanense. If you use also the petals vs. lip length then you can exclude both.
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This is cyp hybrid pixi and it has always grown quickly from when it started to flower in 2008 with two stems.
There are now about eighty five shoots and fifty one flowers.
Maybe next year it will have over 100!
Davif
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One important distinctive feature is that the petals are approximately twice as long as the lip in lentiginosum, and only 3 to 2 compared to the lip in lichiangense.
Which would make all those pictured lichiangense.
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This is cyp hybrid pixi and it has always grown quickly from when it started to flower in 2008 with two stems.
There are now about eighty five shoots and fifty one flowers.
Maybe next year it will have over 100!
Davif
Now that's just wrong. No wonder my cyp has no flowers, you have them all.
Thanks for the videos BTW.
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[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
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One important distinctive feature is that the petals are approximately twice as long as the lip in lentiginosum, and only 3 to 2 compared to the lip in lichiangense.
I would say that Hakone interpretation seems to be correct from the pictures, but it is very difficult to estimate it from the pictures only.
On last thing: if evaluating on the base of the leaves only, it is important to keep into the equation also daweishanense. If you use also the petals vs. lip length then you can exclude both.
In Hakone's images of lentiginosum the petals don't look to be very long.
Here is an image of my lichiangense -the petals look to be longer than those pictured above.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8762/18361393791_6a09398f0e_o_d.jpg)
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hey ,
that's a real TRUE lichiangense.............
...... as described in the Eccarius Book.
cheers
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Cypripedium fargesii
A feral wee beastie which enjoys regular dilute feeds and the odd fingertip.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8786/18361395041_3c1b2cd11c_o_d.jpg)
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Feed me. Feed me now. What a fantastic orchid.
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While I have nothing to offer flowerwise, this photo is for any 'beginners' reading this thread.
I took advice (see earlier posts on the thread) and jumped feet first into the wacky world of 'inorganics'. Cypripedium calceolous and some Dactylorhiza (anonymous until they flower) growing in 100% Cat litter*. They don't seem to care and are doing really well. There are a great many 'recipes' out there for growing media.
This one is so simple that even I could follow it...
(1) Get a bag of inorganic media (perlite/cat litter)
(2) Put your plant in it.
(3) Put the plant in an area it will like (shade/sun/cold/warm)
(4) Feed said plant (perlite and cat litter don't have much in the way of nutrients)
I couldn't be more pleased by my current results. I have killed so many 'hardy Orchids' over the years that I could kick myself to death for not asking the advice of experts* earlier.
(http://hud357.homenet.org/orch/catlitter.jpg)
* eg. Sophisticat Lightweight Pink Clay Non Clumping Cat Litter (UK - pets at home). It must be a 'Seramis' type of litter.
*Experts being 'monocotman' and the two steves.
The pots are a lot lager than they appear in the photo - 26cm or 10 inches in old money.
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Hud.. Just a note on your true results on how your cyps perform with your media will show up the next growing season!! As to what's growing now is from previous season growth of what's stored in the rhizome, roots and buds. So having a healthy plant to start with your on a great start. I've nursed sick cyps with rot from organics and changing the mix to inorganics with success and excel others of the same cv or species. If all other conditions are right like feeding, light levels, temperatures and moisture then you can't go wrong. In saying that some cultivars just love organics purely because moisture levels are higher compared to perlite that can dry out quicker. It's all about how you manage the conditions or how your climate manages your cyps..
We are always learning.
Cheers
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Hello Maggi.. Thanks for correcting my spelling, I'll blame it on the cut and pasting and being lazy.
Goofy thanks for the link .I did see the cv john but wasn't sure if the subsp was any different. If you have not seen the frosch's info website with detailed parentage cross and cv name with a photo then have a look. It's a brilliant website.
http://www.w-frosch.de/Cypris/menu_d.htm (http://www.w-frosch.de/Cypris/menu_d.htm)
Cheers
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Cypripedium John is C. parviflorum parviflorum x yunnanense. I understood that you were looking for parviflorum var. makasin x yunnanense. Given that Annegret and GPH Little Charlie both have makasin as a specified parent then I do not think John is the answer to your question.
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Cypripedium flavum Two different forms. The first stands about 80cm tall whilst the second is a short plant. Both photographed at high ISO in very poor light. The weather here is appalling.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8766/18333424186_c361371025_o_d.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7731/18173677979_1aeeb85131_o_d.jpg)
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Steve c2 thanks for pointing that out..I suppose it must be a very new cross if there's picks out there ?
Steve Garvie..I'm envious of anyone that can grow flavum. Do you keep this one dry in winter? Is it out doors in winter, in a pot or the ground? I've managed to get myself a juvenile plant after killing a batch of seedlings 10 years ago and not really knowing what I was doing .
Cheers
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hi Stephen . I just found an information about the ventricosum X tibeticum cross
from Holger Perner on a website.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mallee_phallies/6980650711/in/photostream/ (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mallee_phallies/6980650711/in/photostream/)
so just ask "Hengduan Mountains Biotechnology"
maybe Holger can provide you with a picture,
he is a serious person,
I know him very well for about 20 years now :)
just GOOGLE, and you find lot of informations about his "lab & nursery" in China
cheers
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Steve c2 thanks for pointing that out..I suppose it must be a very new cross if there's picks out there ?
Steve Garvie..I'm envious of anyone that can grow flavum. Do you keep this one dry in winter? Is it out doors in winter, in a pot or the ground? I've managed to get myself a juvenile plant after killing a batch of seedlings 10 years ago and not really knowing what I was doing .
Cheers
Hi Stephen,
The large flavum is outdoors. It is near the top of a small sloping raised bed which is sandwiched between a solid boundary fence and the southern wall of my house. The site is shaded by 50% shade netting which is suspended between the house and the fence, this offers no rain protection and the plant has coped with very wet winters as well as the 2nd coldest winter in my lifetime.
This Cyp. was bought from a Danish mail order nursery (Larsen Plante-importes) and I suspect that it originally came from Chen Yi. I bought and planted it in 1999. It did well for some years but then went into decline -mainly because I lost interest in the garden through lack of time. Four years ago I discovered that the poor thing was still alive despite being surrounded by Ground Elder and other weeds. At this stage it had only one weak growth. I cleared the site around the plant and top-dressed with a mix of pumice, silica sand and powdered dolomite. I also started feeding the plant and was rewarded by a flowering growth in the following season. Last year it produced two growths, one of which flowered. This year it has two strong flowering growths.
Unfortunately the Ground Elder and other weeds also responded to feeding and crept back. So a few weeks ago I carefully cleared the site around the plant. It would appear that the original mix that I used back in 1999 was a cocktail of coarse sand/perlite/pumice/seramis. This has resulted in some amazing root growth. Some of the roots are as long as the plant is tall (80cm). The roots fan out radially and seem to remain within the top 15cm of substrate. Strangely some of the old roots appear to have new young white branches leading off them. I have never seen this before in a Cypripedium and initially I thought that these were Ground Elder roots -however I followed a few of these roots back to the main rhizome.
Hopefully this plant will start to produce more shoots as it certainly now has a significant root mass.
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Hello all superb pictures, I do not grow any of these exciting rare Cypripediums but do have several growing in the garden ordinary soil mix with grit and some compost I also have a large group growing in a pot outside, cheers Ian
Cyp guttatum_
Cyp reginae 2
Cyp reginae x
Cyp twin
Cyp_0002
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A few more, Ian
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A cracking collection of Cyps Ian.
Most of mine are tortured in pots.
Well done with Cyp. guttatum.
When I grew Cyps in the past I was never successful with guttatum.
Next time it's straight into the "cauld cauld groon". ;)
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Hello thanks Steve it gets very little special treatment a few more pictures from today we have a Cyp macranthos in flower which is late other plants flowered earlier and one plant has only frosted flowers a bit strange as all are the same clone divide over the years also a Cyp sebastian which is growing in the big pot 2 small plants both with 3 flowers, cheers Ian the Christie kind
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Hello again, just thought that I should post another picture of Cypflavum after looking again at Steve's pictures for me my plant is much greener than I thought it should be flowering about 25 cm maybe get taller yet has 4 other non flowering shoots, cheers Ian the Christie kind.
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It looks very cool and fresh - just the sort of thing to cheer one up in these sultry tropics (Buckinghamshire). ;) ;)
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Superb plants Ian!!!
Your flavum is more vigorous than mine but also more compact. My plant is in part shade which is probably why it is taller.
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Cypripedium farreri -a pot grown plant. Last year it increased in size and is now big enough to flower.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/289/18359915345_6f0c451a00_o_d.jpg)
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Stunning picture Steve what a flower, I post another hybrid Cyp fasciolatum x has been blown about by the wind, cheers Ian the Christie kind
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Hello I thought that I should show some pictures of where my Cypripediums grow first is a Peat block crevice bed made just over 2 years ago thought it might be a bit wet but everything is growing well some not out yet the other area is a long bed under tall conifers that is much drier but again all are growing well, a few are in the Azalea and Rhode beds cheers Ian the Christie kind.
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Ian looking good. Garden looks lovely. There is no chance of anyone running away with that big pot full of Cypripediums ;D
Angie :)
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several weeks ago a small first generation bumble bee was working my Cyps. It would go in the lip and work its way out the back of the sexy bits :) and I assume it carried some pollinia for flowers. I know have seed pods forming. Will I just leave them and when ripe sprinkle the contents in my Hosta pots where Dacts seem to like germinating?
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You can try it Mark. You have nothing to lose, but don't hold your breathe ;D
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You can try it Mark. You have nothing to lose, but don't hold your breathe ;D
Is it worth trying in a more 'scientific' environment? http://www.lidaforsgarden.com/Orchids/engelsk.htm (http://www.lidaforsgarden.com/Orchids/engelsk.htm)
Personally I would be more than happy to keep a mature plant alive but these guys seem to be growing various Orchids like weeds.
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Svante Malmgren, whose website you refer to, is one of the pioneers of growing hardy orchids from seed in controlled conditions. Many of the plants available legally are as a result of his work. At the European Orchid Show in London this year I was dead chuffed when he asked me for seed from one of my plants because that means that in few years I might get some free plants back.
Every year the Hardy Orchid Society run a seed raising course for members and more and more people are now growing these plants in vitro, but let's not kid ourselves, it takes an investment in time, money, space etc and not everyone wishes to go down that route, particularly for a seed pod of unknown parentage like Mark's. That's why I suggested giving the chuck it and chance method a go. ;D
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Every year the Hardy Orchid Society run a seed raising course for members and more and more people are now growing these plants in vitro, but let's not kid ourselves, it takes an investment in time, money, space etc and not everyone wishes to go down that route, particularly for a seed pod of unknown parentage like Mark's. That's why I suggested giving the chuck it and chance method a go. ;D
And its very worthwhile doing it.
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My one and only Cyp. is going over now (I take it that this is normal for the (UK) time of year?)
I took the opportunity to delve around in the pot and quickly found at least five 'noses'. Didn't dig very deep so there could be more. Couldn't be happier - started with two.
So many thanks to those who offered such good advice earlier in the year.
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My one and only Cyp. is going over now (I take it that this is normal for the (UK) time of year?)
I took the opportunity to delve around in the pot and quickly found at least five 'noses'. Didn't dig very deep so there could be more. Couldn't be happier - started with two.
So many thanks to those who offered such good advice earlier in the year.
Yes , hud357 - that's exactly what the cyps being sold at the SRGC discussion weekend were doing. And good news about the bunch of new noses in place, too!
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From a Facebook post by Michael Weinert:
"Dear garden orchid lovers,
I would like to inform you that now is the right time for planting hardy lady's slipper orchids for the garden and for dividing bigger clumps.
For both topics I have prepared informative video instructions:
www.cypripedium.de/English/videos-e/plantingvideos-e.html (http://www.cypripedium.de/English/videos-e/plantingvideos-e.html)
On my website you will find additional information and beautiful photos.
Happy gardening!
Michael Weinert, Frosch® Exclusive Perennials "
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Hello I thought that I should show some pictures of where my Cypripediums grow first is a Peat block crevice bed made just over 2 years ago thought it might be a bit wet but everything is growing well some not out yet the other area is a long bed under tall conifers that is much drier but again all are growing well, a few are in the Azalea and Rhode beds cheers Ian the Christie kind.
Ian, love the Cyps outdoors. Do you modify the soil at all, and do you give protection from wind and slugs?
Best, Tristan
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Well I got a new Cyp a couple of days ago and while potting it up I took the opportunity to re-pot my original Cyp. Seven 'noses' :o
It had two at this time last year so a big thank you to all who offered advice over the season. It was obviously good advice.
Merry Xmas to all.