Scottish Rock Garden Club Forum
Bulbs => Bulbs General => Topic started by: ArnoldT on January 11, 2015, 11:05:48 PM
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Lachenalia bifolia close-up
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Here is the Lachenalia bifolia from the previous post with the picture re-sized to the "forum preferred" size - looks pretty good, I think....
[attachimg=1]
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Gladiolus trichomenifolius (G. tenellus) looks like G tristis but it has radial symmetry. up to 8" tall in a pot on my cold windowsill
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Albuca namaquensis, flowers began at 2" and extended up to 6 inches in seed.
leaf tips are curly
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Good things flowering for you , Rimmer. Those photos are a fine size, by the way 8)
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Veltheimia bracteata pink and yellow forms. these are large plants about 3 feet tall.
[attachimg=1]
Veltheimia bracteata
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I was collecting seed from Haemanthus albiflos and though it may be nice to see some South African fruit so here are some fruits that look ripe now
Haemanthus albiflos fruit [attachimg=1]
Clivia minuata hyb fruit [attachimg=2]
Clivia minuata yellow hyb fruit [attachimg=3]
Clivia caulescens fruit [attachimg=4]
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Gladiolus griseus
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Exquisite blooms, Arnold,
How tall is the spike?
How long from seed? Or do you have a source for this sort of bulbs in the USA?
cheers
fermi
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Fermi:
Spike is ten to twelve inches tall.
Came as a different Glad and when I asked the supplier sent the correct one and I kept the G. griseus.
From Telos Rare Bulbs in California, Diana Chapman.
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Lachenalia reflexa
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Fermi:
Spike is ten to twelve inches tall.
Came as a different Glad and when I asked the supplier sent the correct one and I kept the G. griseus.
Thanks, Arnold,
one to look out for on the lists,
cheers
fermi
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Few sun last two months, only two South African Bulbs with flowers.
Lachenalia bulbifera
Lachenalia viridiflora
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One of my favourite South African bulbs, Lapeirousia oreogena, is flowering better than ever before this year. The flowering season lasts a fair time as it produces a succession of flowers over a long period. It has one of those colours that digital cameras seem to find hard to register properly so I have "doctored" the image below to try and get it closer to the actual colour. It still isn't quite right; the flowers are in reality a richer, darker violet.
Paul
Lapeirousia oreogena:
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very nice Paul, for some reason I'd got it into my head that it was a summer flowerer, that kind of colour would be particular welcome at this time of year
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Despite the heavy hail we had a couple of weeks ago Lachenalia aloides has recovered well.
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I did toy with posting this on the 'Moans' thread but as I have a question about a SAF bulb I'll leave it here.
My seeds from Gordon Summerfield, ordered in November (!), finally arrived today. It wasn't Gordon's fault. Forumists who've been dealing with South Africa will know they've been having a series of postal strikes - and apparently another strike is due as they want back pay for the time they were on strike earlier! So Gordon at some expense had to use a courier service to ensure seed orders were fulfilled which was very considerate of him. Unfortunately the courier company seemed to be staffed by cretins as they claimed that they had tried to deliver to me but I had refused to accept the package :-[ ??? >:( Of course, the problem was that they had messed up the postcode so it went to the wrong address ( I also noticed that my phone number on the waybill was also incorrect!). Anyway, it has now been sorted although the strike could be ruinous for some seed companies. Gordon emailed to say:
One of the growers that we supply seed to has said they are on the edge of going out of business, as so many of their packages sent via the Post Office took many months last year and the contents were all ruined. Being a large business that sells large quantities they just cannot afford the courier fees.
So, one of my seed packets is Romulea hantamensis and I wondered if any forumists have experience of this species? I ask because the PBS reports that it is tricky to germinate, possibly requiring stratification. Anyone grown this from seed and if so did they give it a period of winter cold or just the usual regime for SAF winter growers of a temperature differential until germination? Thanks.
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Lachenalia aloides quadricolor
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Lachenalia aloides quadricolor
Hi Arnold,
Was this grown for seed? I know it is very variable but the best selections keep the four distinct bands of colour and it is not always consistent. I think the form "Pearsonii" is one that has pure yellow flowers developing from reddish buds like yours does,
cheers
fermi
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Fermi:
I have two sources one from Croft Nursery in SA and the other from a BX distribution from the PBS. ( both as bulbs)
I had a look at Duncan's book and mine looks like it has two different flower forms on the same stem.
Grew in low light levels.
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Lachenalia pendula
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Really like the pendula Arnold. Looking at my Quadricolor last year I wondered if the variation were climatic, instability or bulbs were simply reverting as they multiple like wildfire, some even to plain yellow. Started with one bulb from Transpacific back in the 90's.
Guess I should check this year's crop.
johnw - +3c
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Steve,
I sowed Romulea hantamensis seeds from Silverhill in 2011, gave the pot varying temperatures
which did not result in germination. In 2014 I dumped the pot contents in the garden in one
of the spots reserved for non-performers. Always give them a chance, not that many take
advantage.
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I did toy with posting this on the 'Moans' thread but as I have a question about a SAF bulb I'll leave it here.
My seeds from Gordon Summerfield, ordered in November (!), finally arrived today. It wasn't Gordon's fault. Forumists who've been dealing with South Africa will know they've been having a series of postal strikes - and apparently another strike is due as they want back pay for the time they were on strike earlier! So Gordon at some expense had to use a courier service to ensure seed orders were fulfilled which was very considerate of him. Unfortunately the courier company seemed to be staffed by cretins as they claimed that they had tried to deliver to me but I had refused to accept the package :-[ ??? >:( Of course, the problem was that they had messed up the postcode so it went to the wrong address ( I also noticed that my phone number on the waybill was also incorrect!). Anyway, it has now been sorted although the strike could be ruinous for some seed companies. Gordon emailed to say:
One of the growers that we supply seed to has said they are on the edge of going out of business, as so many of their packages sent via the Post Office took many months last year and the contents were all ruined. Being a large business that sells large quantities they just cannot afford the courier fees.
So, one of my seed packets is Romulea hantamensis and I wondered if any forumists have experience of this species? I ask because the PBS reports that it is tricky to germinate, possibly requiring stratification. Anyone grown this from seed and if so did they give it a period of winter cold or just the usual regime for SAF winter growers of a temperature differential until germination? Thanks.
I've had seed from Gordon arrive in January before. It matters little as even November is really too late to be sowing them here, plus they have just been harvested and many of them need a post-harvest warm dry ripening before sowing anyway therefore I'd put them in a drawer in the house until August and sow them then. I can understand your frustration though.
I've had seed of R. hantamensis several times and given it both normal SA bulb treatment and tried leaving it outside for the winter. Neither was successful.
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Diane/Darren - many thanks for sharing your experiences of R. hantamensis. Doesn't sound very encouraging but I suspected as much when ordering the seed - we're an optimistic lot when it comes to plants, aren't we?! Anyway, I'll give it a go and hope for the best. If I do get any to germinate I'll bear you both in mind :).
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I've had seed from Gordon arrive in January before. It matters little as even November is really too late to be sowing them here, plus they have just been harvested and many of them need a post-harvest warm dry ripening before sowing anyway therefore I'd put them in a drawer in the house until August and sow them then. I can understand your frustration though.
Hi Darren - I agree with you up to a point, particularly on the post-harvest ripening requirements, but I have successfully sown these winter growers at different times with some success. My previous order from Gordon did arrive in November and as the seed allocation was fairly generous and I'm an impatient b*gg*r, I sowed half the packet and put the rest away until the following August. Kept the pots in the house, moving them to a cooler room every night and had really good germination. Of course, it meant the young bulbs were smaller than usual when they were going into dormancy but by growing them on for as long as possible and not letting them bake over summer they all reappeared in the autumn and it meant I saved a year. It would be a bit of a hassle for large quantities but I was happy to take a punt on a single tray of seed pots. Didn't work for Wurmbea recurva, Gladiolus meluisculus, Lachenalia arbuthnotiae and L. pusilla but these species didn't germinate from the August sowing either! ::)
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I have been told in the past that Romulea hantamensis is one of the subjects that benefits from smoke treatment for germination. I have no personal experience either way, but thought you might find it a useful suggestion.
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I have been told in the past that Romulea hantamensis is one of the subjects that benefits from smoke treatment for germination. I have no personal experience either way, but thought you might find it a useful suggestion.
Yes, that might be worth a try although - and excuse my ignorance of the region - I'm not sure whether fire is a frequent occurence in the Hantamberg area or indeed whether montane species are particularly dependent on fire/smoke for germination.
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Is this Lachenalia reflexa? Certainly looks similar to Arnold's posting a few weeks back.
I grew this from a seed exchange and was expecting a nice blue Cyanella hyacinthoides, so rather disappointing.
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Yes it is Pete. A well grown specimen too.
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Well done Pete. I can't seem to get mine to rise very far from the base before the flowers wilt.
Do you give supplemental light?
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Well done Pete. I can't seem to get mine to rise very far from the base before the flowers wilt.
I wonder how variable this species is? While the flowers on mine don't wilt, they do remain close to the base and are certainly not as fine a specimen as Pete's. Mine are nowhere near flowering yet - photo from 2014.
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Thanks Darren and Arnold.
It doesn't get any extra light, in fact just our normal, dull, Winter light through bubble polythene greenhouse insulation, so in fact "drawn"?
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A very small Lachenalia mutabilis. Named so because of the changing color of the flowers.
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A very small Lachenalia mutabilis.
Nice Arnold, mine is finished now.
When do you stop watering? as the flowers begin to fade or later?
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Rimmer:
I water until the foliage begins to wither and dry. My feeling is the leaves have to produce some starches to maintain of increase the growth of the bulb.
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I wonder how variable this species is?
My Lachenalia reflexa has spotted leaves :)
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Tatsuo:
Duncan describes L. reflexa a having "upper leaf surface plain the heavy spotted with light to dark brown"
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Massonia (Whiteheadia) bifolia. Interesting rather than beautiful...
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Despite the heavy hail both color forms of Daubenya aurea have recovered,
only leaves are damaged
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Beautiful plants oron.
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Lachenalia reflexa from a different source. Flowers still not full above leaves.
I did play a bit with white balance. Photo taken in cloudy and SNOWY weather.
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Lachenalia aloides var. aurea a long lasting flower.
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Romulea cruciata, Romulea exima, Lachenalia mutabilis and Lachenalia carnosa
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Hesperantha humilis and Romulea luteoflora :)
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Superb plants Tatsuo!!! :o
I really struggle with winter-growing S.A bulbs due to poor winter light.
I need to research artficial lighting systems.
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While you guys are exulting in your fine, exquisite spring flowers, the large and exuberant autumn flowerers are hitting their straps in the Southern Hemisphere!
Crossyne flava
White Amaryllis belladonna
cheers
fermi
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Love your White Amaryllis Belladonna 8)
Angie :)
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A third Lachenalia reflexa still not fully extended flower scape.
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Veltheimia bractaeta and a close up.
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From recent posts I am guessing that this is
Romulea reflexa - mistyped- should be Lachenalia. peduncle seems quite long and leaves are hardly marked at all. Came from a packet of "mixed sp" seed bought by a friend from Karoo NBG. Sown October 2011.
Erle
Anglesey
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Lachenalia namaquensis
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From recent posts I am guessing that this is Romulea reflexa. peduncle seems quite long and leaves are hardly marked at all. Came from a packet of "mixed sp" seed bought by a friend from Karoo NBG. Sown October 2011.
Erle
Anglesey
I'm no expert Erle but I don't think it is and I'm surprised some of the South African experts haven't been in on this one. Apparently Romulea reflexa is a synonym of R. flava and R. flava is a synonym of R. rosea var. reflexa. Perhaps the best picture I can find is on the Pacific Bulb Society pages http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/SouthAfricanRomuleasTwo#flava (http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/SouthAfricanRomuleasTwo#flava) and you may well find there some information that will help.
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David:
You're right. It looks like the Lachenalia reflexa that has been prominently featured on these pages.
I've been busy digging myself out each day trying to get to work and trying to hack through the daily freezes.
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Taken hurriedly this morning before setting off for my great grandaughter's first birthday party
Ferraria schaeferi
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Sparaxis elegans flowering for the first time for me.
The photo doesn't really capture the vibrant colour. Lovely and more to come.
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Hesperantha vaginata
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These hot colours are almost as cheering as actual sunshine!
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Sorry David. A serious senior moment. Why on earth did I type Romulea? when I meant Lachenalia? I don't even have any Romulea
Erle
Anglesey
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I really struggle with winter-growing S.A bulbs due to poor winter light.
I need to research artficial lighting systems.
The choices used to be metal halide or HPS lamps but LEDs seem to be making inroads: http://www.heliospectra.com/ (http://www.heliospectra.com/) (click on Reviews to read what Gothenburg has to say).
Anyone had experience of using horticultural LEDs? Much cheaper to run than high pressure sodium lamps, I assume, which may make them an attractive option to boost winter light levels here in Yorkshire. Although I suspect the neighbours would still wonder what exactly I'm growing in the greenhouse regardless of the source of the light! ;D
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Sorry David. A serious senior moment. Why on earth did I type Romulea? when I meant Lachenalia? I don't even have any Romulea
Erle
Anglesey
No worries, Erle, I've edited your post for you. I am pretty good at thinking one thing and typing another myself!
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No worries, Erle, I've edited your post for you. I am pretty good at thinking one thing and typing another myself!
Moi aussi ;D
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Steve:
I've been using a HID mercury vapor bulb for years over some of the South African bulbs.
The LED"S are out there but cost can range 200-300 dollars per bulb.
I would have tired one bulb the fixture housing the bulb would have to be changed. The LED's don't require the ballast needed for an HID.
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I use 54 watt T-5 fixtures to grow all my winter bulbs and they work wonderfully but they are not cheep fixtures or very cheep to run but much less cost than the old type of grow lamps and put out much stronger light than the typical T-8 or T-12 fluorescent shop lamps. These fixtures with bulbs can cost $100 to $200 depending the number of bulbs, there is always a sale somewhere. This solution was much cheeper than installing a greenhouse and does not need supplemental heating in our sub Arctic winters down to -30ºC
These fixtures have two switches so you can choose the outer 4 lamps and/or the inner 2 or 4 lamps and have an extra outlet so you can daisy chain fixtures or plug in a fan. because they give off heat (just like the sun) i use 6" fans on the same timer to cool off the grow space and stiffen up the stems. the first year i ran these fixtures with all the light bulbs on, but this year i have mostly used the outer 4 light bulbs and turned on the extra light bulbs when i see flower stems popping up.
the fixtures come with 6400K 54watt T-5 light tubes but you can use 24watt and get other light band widths. the 6400k work well for flowering plants.
The plants grow wonderfully but some plants not used to the bright light get scorched and others need the full light. so plant positions need to be sorted out. for the coolest growing south African bulbs i have the pots and trays on the basement floor in a sand plunge with the light about 2.75 feet above the floor. this areas is typically below 50ºF at night and gets to the 60sºF when the lamps are on with the fans. other ZA plants the South Americans that do not need the cold below 60ºF are located on a table, shelf etc. with the lights at varying distances from the plants.
I have tried the screw socket style blue and red LED grow light sold on eBay from China that have dozens of tiny LEDs and the plants seem to grow tight but some plant leaves turn black under this light. these LEDs are not supposed to give IR but i wonder? it is hard to see things in the red and blue light.
here some photos of the set up and some plants grown exclusively under these lights.
the last photo shows two T-5 fixtures and a shop light on top for lily seedlings
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Arnold/Rimmer - thanks for sharing your experiences of using fluoros and HIDs. Indoor growing under lights seems to be much more popular in the States than in the UK, thereagain we don't have to cope with such extreme winter temperatures! As you say, the various types of fluorescent lamps are much cheaper to run than halides/sodium lights and LEDs would be even more cost efficient (I'm starting to replace my house halogen downlighters with LEDS). As I suspected though, it's the start-up costs of an LED set-up that's the killer at the moment. Perhaps as they become more popular the prices may start to fall? They run much cooler than flouros and HIDs of course which is a bonus.
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Steve, prices will drop. I purchased some small LEDS to replace halogen lights in a stove hood for $5.00 each today.
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I'm not sure what is the current correct name, Lapeirousia, Fressia or Anomatheca, but here is the blue for of laxa.
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Freesia caryophyllacea (syn. F. xanthospila) - picked these up at Dunblane last year as bulbils submitted to the seed exchange. Gorgeous scent.
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I know from past comments that some of you may be looking for Eucomis schijffi. I have some 3 year old bulbs available on eBay currently - see http://ebay.eu/1b9Lks4 (http://ebay.eu/1b9Lks4)
Flowering for me for the first time is Lapeirousia silenoides. I love the intense colour!
Paul
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Lachenalia aloides quadricolor an immature flower.
Lachenalia vanzyliae
Unknown Lachenalia growing in someone else's pot.
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Returning to the subject of LED & other forms of lighting, I hope it will be useful to point out a large misunderstanding that has persisted for a long time. This is the belief that alpines and other plants grow more compactly in the wild than they often do in cultivation due to being exposed to higher levels of UV radiation. This is actually not true. In his bulb log last November http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2014Nov121415787177BULB_LOG_4614.pdf (http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2014Nov121415787177BULB_LOG_4614.pdf) Ian showed the new LED system that Gothenburg is trialling and said that they were "high in UV" for healthy growth. If you check the spectrum of the lamps used on the company's website, you will see that actually these lamps cover the range of 400nm to 735nm - which encompasses the photosynthetic spectrum but not the UV. In fact these lamps don't give out any UV light at all.
Science does not yet fully understand all the ins and outs of the specific effects of various wavelengths of light on growth, but experiments on alpines have shown that levels of UV light do not affect the stature of the plants. In fact, like most things, UV can damage plant tissue just as it can damage your skin if you stay out in the sun too long. Experiments show that most plants actually reflect the majority of UV light that falls on them in order to protect themselves from damage. And the experiments also show that of all groups tested, Alpines reflect the most UV (more than 90%).
As well as experiments, observations in the wild also point to the fallacy of the idea that it is the UV keeping plants compact. For example, many arctic and sub Antarctic plants inhabit misty coastal ranges where they receive very little UV and yet they are extremely stunted and dwarfed. Also, if UV intensity had a significant effect, you would expect to see latitudinal gradients in the stature of alpine plants, but this does not occur.
So what does keep alpines dwarf and compact? While the full story may not yet be in, the evidence all points to LOW TEMPERATURE as the key factor. Our alpines in cultivation grow out of character largely because we cannot keep them cool enough. It is also known that the overall intensity of light (of all the useful wavelengths, but not UV) has a part to play at least for some species.
For those who would like to know the references and read more about this, the best place to start is the discussion about all this on pages 114 to 119 of the book "Alpine Plant Life - Functional Plant Ecology of High Mountain Ecosystems" (second edition) by Christian Korner ISBN 3-540-00347-0
Paul
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Can someone remind me, Freesia (and maybe other bulbs) are sensitive/don't require one of the major plant nutrients. Is is phosphate? And will it kill, or just ail the plants?
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I'll copy your post to the Bulb Log thread, Paul.
It all begs the question - what then are Gothenburg using the lights for, if there is no effect re UV, as supposed ? ???
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Maggi
Sometimes "experts" try things to prove they don't work.
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Yes, I know that, Arnold , but Ian's impression was that it was the higher levels of all the spectrum of light, including UV, that was the point of these lights. Either he got the wrong end of the stick as regards the description he was given, or he and the GBG folks are all labouring under a misapprehension!
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Hi Maggi,
The lights at Gothenburg would still be useful for increasing the day length (especially in their northerly latitude) and the overall light intensity the plants receive and these should lead to improved growth. The operating costs should also be cheaper than traditional grow lights. I would imagine that these are the reasons they are trialling them. Though the 'myth' that UV improves compactness is so ingrained that it would not be a surprise if they were also under that misapprehension.
Paul
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Can someone remind me, Freesia (and maybe other bulbs) are sensitive/don't require one of the major plant nutrients. Is is phosphate? And will it kill, or just ail the plants?
I think it's because South African soil is low in phosphates and the thinking therefore is that bulbs from that region are sensitive to the phosphate content in plant food/fertilizer. So ideally they should be fed with a no/low % P content fertiliser. Personally, I just use tomato food at 1/4 to 1/2 strength and haven't had any major problems apart from some minor leaf burn when I've made the solution too strong. It may be that a no P fertilizer regime is better, and I think Paul C does so for his South African bulbs? They're presumably a candidate for Ian Y's policy of a tsp of potash per pot in March/April...
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Yes, the "low phosphate" regime was originally recommended to me by Gordon Summerfield based as Steve said on the low phosphate levels most of them experience in habitat. I actually use a 13 - 5 - 20 formulation, so low but not zero phosphate and this seems to work fine applied at half strength.
Paul
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Thanks Steve and Paul. I think they received an accidental dose of balanced feed when I was watering some young bulb seedlings, so looking a bit yellow at the moment. Hopefully they'll recover. My usual feeding regime is to use JI#3 in the potting mix (1 part in 3 or 4 parts total) and a dose of sulphate of potash once or twice in the spring so I'll keep them to this. Cheers.
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So what does keep alpines dwarf and compact?
Paul
I think wind has a lot to do with compactness. 3 things come to mind from trying to take photos of plants on mountain tops. - bright light, constant wind, and cold (and often fog).
i would think that these things naturally select what lives and dies in the Alpine environment. so a different environmental without these things would yield different survivors/ thrivers.
Rimmer
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I know this is not a big deal to flower bulbs from mail order nurseries but this Thog dubium is looking so beautiful on a sunny windowsill.
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For those not familiar with these plants, "Thog dubium " is a nickname for Ornithogalum dubium :)
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Geissorhiza imbricata in bloom in a pot now
supposed to be a stream side plant, it does love water.
Sorry for the sideways photos, they were upright when I posted them
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albuca suavelons 1 yr from seed to bloom.
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Some South African treats.
Lachenalia mathewsii
Lachenalia 'unknown'.
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Massonia echinata fruits
Massonia pustulata fruits
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First flower of Babiana odorata. But the blossom is completely white. No idea which species.
Other pictures: Gladiolus tristis, Gladiolus liliaceus and Veltheimia capensis.
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First flower of Babiana odorata. But the blossom is completely white. No idea which species.
Other pictures: Gladiolus tristis, Gladiolus liliaceus and Veltheimia capensis.
Love your Babiana odorata, just love white flowers 8)
Angie :)
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Approaching end of lachenalia season.
Lachenalia arbuthnotiae
Lachenalia latimeriae
Lachenalia zeyheri
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Very nice, Arnold, you must have a large collection of this genus. I like the look of Lachenalia zeyheri but maybe a bit robust for pot culture?
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if anybody is interested for some pics of Scadoxus please look here :
http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=13025.0 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=13025.0)
Hans
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Love your Babiana odorata, just love white flowers 8)
Angie :)
Your are right white is nice, too.
But I was looking forward to a yellow blue flowers, unfortunately white was not the right colour. But that is the way it is. There is always a suprise in growing plants from seed. Nevertheless I will grow this plant in future - looking forward to the second plant´s blossom colour white or yellow/blue.
K-D
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The autumn flowering Moraea polystachya has started blooming here.
The first pic was taken in the evening and was not true to colour-way too blue!
With a white card next to the flower it comes out closer to its true colour, a mauve-purple,
cheers
fermi
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Chris:
This Lachenalia gets a good amount of supplemental light from a metal halide light 6 hours per day.
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Lachenalia anguinea - OK, not the most impressive flower but I couldn't be more delighted. This came from Kirstenbosch seed many years ago and it is the one species of Lachenalia I've grown that I've not been able to flower. I've kept it going but the bulbs never seem to reach flowering size. So, at long last...! Also a photo of the foliage earlier in the season, looking a bit tired now.
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Lost-label Lachenalia. Any suggestions? It has a look of L mathewsii but the foliage isn't right. Possibly L. pallida but the plants I grow have a much paler flower. Possibly a hybrid seedling (mathewsii/pallida or lilliflora)?
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Gladiolus splendens A macro view of a single flower:
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8771/17086902146_6556e39fce_o.jpg)
Moraea gawleri
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8789/17086902476_f702115c35_o.jpg)
Babiana rubrocyanea
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8729/16926673219_6d94f72551_o.jpg)
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Moraea villosa
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There's no such thing as an ugly Moraea, is there? :)
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something common but nice, Oxalis obtusa
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Gladiolus cunonius
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Freesia alba.
freesia laxa hyb.
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Seeds of Massonia echinata
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Lachenalia comptonii
Leaf trichomes visible
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Lachenalia zeyerhi- with busy little visitors
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Lachenalia contaminata
Lachenalia latimeriae
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Lachenalia thomasiae
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Lachenalia anguinea, L. latimerae and L. namaquensis.
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Lachenalia mathewsii and L. vanzyliae.
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Lachenalia haarlemensis. I really like the leaf markings on this species.
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Very beautiful Lachenalias SJW.
Sadly not so colorful: Lachenalia orchioides var. glaucina and Moraea setifolia
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Another Lachenalia orchioides and L. aloides var. vanzyliae :) Now my spring bulbs have almost finished.
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Merwilla plumbea formerly a Scilla.
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Moraea polyanthos
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Lachenalia rosea, L. comptonii and L. pallida (formerly pustulata/unicolor).
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Last Lachenalia of the season. Lachenalia nervosa.
Sweet spicy scented.
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I have a unknown albuca in flower at present, grassy foliage and loverly yellow flowers. It was a swap I did with Graeme over in Derbyshire.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8850/17154729289_a2e746b075.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/s8UtmD)image (https://flic.kr/p/s8UtmD) by johnstephen29 (https://www.flickr.com/people/126223196@N05/), on Flickr
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Most probably Albuca shawii, but very early I would have thought.
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Thanks David, when do they usually flower?
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I suppose that's conditioned by the time they started to get their first watering. In my case it's usually this time of year, or maybe a couple of weeks earlier, before I have enough space for the Summer flowering bulbs in the greenhouse and I don't start to water until that happens. According to my old picture files it has usually been July before Albuca shawii has been good enough to picture. Try searching the Forum.
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Albuca shawii flowers in late July in my garden.
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It's a hardy plant then Diane?
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Yes, it's been growing in the garden since 2008.
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When it dies down I'll have to give it a go, if you can grow it well in Canada Diane, I should have no problem doing the same here.
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Another hardy bulb blooming in my garden right now is Gladiolus tristis.
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Oxalis palmifrons in flower in the rock garden yesterday - briefly open when we had some sunshine!
I've written on the Southern Hemisphere Thread that it should never be planted out into the open garden as it will run amok!
cheers
fermi
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I have a unknown albuca in flower at present, grassy foliage and loverly yellow flowers. It was a swap I did with Graeme over in Derbyshire.
I have Albuca canadensis, but the leaves are wider. I also have spiralis (which looks more like namaquensis). Either way, I have spare seed of the latter, and mine flowered a year from sowing.
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Ledebouria ovalifolia
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Ledebouria sp. from Huntsdrift, SA
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I have a unknown albuca in flower at present, grassy foliage and loverly yellow flowers. It was a swap I did with Graeme over in Derbyshire.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8850/17154729289_a2e746b075.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/s8UtmD)image (https://flic.kr/p/s8UtmD) by johnstephen29 (https://www.flickr.com/people/126223196@N05/), on Flickr
John - been in Feuterventura for a few weeks so missed your post - cannot believe you have it in flower - it appeared originally as a piece of grass that looked like a bulb seedling in a Primula Allionii I had bought - I treat it like Allionii in the alpine house so mine are just above the ground.........
Glad its done something for you and it is a pretty flower
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It is Graeme, it has a few seed pods so I'll so some and try them outside. Hope you had a great holiday.
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The nearest tag reads Tritonia squalida, but the colour isn't right.
Others planted nearby are (or, more commonly WERE) T lancea, a couple of Romuleas
and a Homeria sp (salmon coloured)
All except the Homeria were from Silverhill Seeds.
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The first Lachenalia is in flower in our garden - the irridescent Lachenalia viridiflora,
cheers
fermi
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Fermi,
I certainly appreciate all the plants and photographs you post! Many of the plants you cultivate seem like they will fit into our California climate well. There is so much for me to file away in my brain for the future. 30-40 years ago I grew a few Lachenalias. At this point I do not even remember the names. For me much to contemplate - Thank you for taking the time to post all the photographs.
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I have just listed several Gethyllis species for sale on eBay, along with various other offerings including some Massonia & Daubenya. These have all been grown by me here in the U.K. so everything is on northern hemisphere timing. Check them out at http://ebay.eu/1n3uCgm (http://ebay.eu/1n3uCgm)
Paul
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Massonia saniensis seed kindly sent by Paul is sprouting. One of the summer growers and leaves just emerging under the gravel on M. wittebergensis. As Paul knows I mistakenly sowed the latter last autumn and up it came so I kept in under lights till February, dried it off, kept it at 5c and now we get a second growing season in one year.
First year seedlings of Massonia I keep bone-dry but what of second year old seedlings? Should they get a drink or stay parched?
johnw
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First year seedlings of Massonia I keep bone-dry but what of second year old seedlings? Should they get a drink or stay parched?
johnw
I'd also be interested to hear how people treat these seedlings in the early years. I'd have thought that if first-year seedlings kept bone dry over summer survive OK then the larger, second-year bulbs would be equally fine under this regime?
Here's Ornithogalum fimbrimarginatum in flower. Not sure if this species is proteranthous but the leaves - lovely earlier in the season - are now going over.
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Here's a pot of Massonia sp. They just get what the weather throws at them. You can see that a snail has been at the leaves. :(
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Knifophia northiae surviving ten years outside. Originally from Ellen Honig's Seneca Hill Nursery
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Yesterday Hesperantha humilis started to open a couple of blooms! I brought the pot to work so that I could get a pic of the open flower, but I think the exterior is also wonderful!
cheers
fermi
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That's a beautiful wee thing, Fermi.
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I've never seen open flowers on mine. It flowers in mid-winter and in UK light and temps it barely even tries to open!
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A couple of honorary South African 'bulbs' - summer dormant tuberous Pelargonium. These two species flower at the start of dormancy.
Pelargonium auritum with almost black flowers, and Pelargonium curviandrum. Both in approx 10cm clay pots.
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here are some pics of my Massonia wittebergensis ( summer growing ) :
http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=12729.msg336899#msg336899 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=12729.msg336899#msg336899)
Enjoy
Hans
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Cyrtanthus epiphyticus
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/347/18961974934_68c14caa7c_o_d.jpg)
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This must be the right place for asking a question about Veltheimia bracteata seedlings. I have sown seeds last year in fall, and they germinated very well. In May I stopped watering them with the intention to resume watering in September. However, not only have they kept their first leave untill now, but they all start pulling up a new leave now. So, should I start watering then again from now on or not ? I read somewhere that the best way to loose these plants is when they are not kept bone dry over summer.
Thanks for your advice !
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Francois:
I have a pot full of Veltheimia bracteata that sits on the floor of the greenhouse during our summer months.
The mother bulb is very large as you can see from the attached image.
It just started to push up some leaves on a couple of the pups that have formed. I watered it and place outside in a shady spot.
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This is a quick (and lousy) picture taken today of our Veltheimia bracteatas. They have always been reluctant to die down in the summer so we keep them moist and in good light. They flower well each year.
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I love the way the bulbs are distorting the sides of the pot in Arnold's picture. Proof that there is good growth going on, if any were needed!
I see you've just got a "few" Veltheimia, then, Chris!!
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I see you've just got a "few" Veltheimia, then, Chris!!
Just a few, Maggi ;)
Clearly not playing by the rules; must get them to rest next year.
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Hi Chris,
I wouldn't worry about your plant's reluctance to die down in summer. V. bracteata in my experience is almost evergreen and seems best with just a short dormancy of maybe two months or so in the autumn/early winter. Even then it may not lose its leaves.
Cheers
Paul
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Thanks all for the tips.
I watered them this morning 8)
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Hi Chris,
I wouldn't worry about your plant's reluctance to die down in summer. V. bracteata in my experience is almost evergreen and seems best with just a short dormancy of maybe two months or so in the autumn/early winter. Even then it may not lose its leaves.
Cheers
Paul
Thanks for the reassurance, Paul. I hadn't given it much thought until I read differing approaches.
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Gladiolus dalenii 'Boone'
Gladiolus flanaginii
Gladiolus 'Emerald Spring'
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Two Eucomis showing good leaf markings:
Eucomis schijffii
Eucomis vandermerwei
I particularly like the burgundy outline to the leaf of Eucomis schijffii.
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Gladiolus flanaginii
Do you keep this dry over the winter?
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Do you keep this dry over the winter?
I can't speak for Ruben but we grew this unprotected in a crevice between rocks on the rock garden for a number of years and it seemed quite happy with our wet Lancashire winters in such a position. It's eventual demise was (I suspect) due to rodents rather than climate.
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Gladiolus flanaginii
Do you keep this dry over the winter?
I keep losing seedlings of this species. They never return in the spring. Yes, do you keep this dry over the winter?
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I grow flanaginii in open ground. We have wet winters and sometimes wet summers but this ones grows well in sandy soil for 4 years now! I don't gave winter or summer cover. Use a lot of grit in the soil, it likes good drainage but also lot of water in the growing period.
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I grow flanaginii in open ground. We have wet winters and sometimes wet summers but this ones grows well in sandy soil for 4 years now! I don't gave winter or summer cover. Use a lot of grit in the soil, it likes good drainage but also lot of water in the growing period.
Ruben,
I appreciate the information. I may be that I have been keeping the bulbs too dry during the winter. The drain has always been excellent.
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I think mine aborted its flowers last summer because of being too dry. Just received some seeds from Seeds by Post, South Africa (http://seedsbypostafrica.wordpress.com/ (http://seedsbypostafrica.wordpress.com/)), including Daubenya aurea, Empodium namaquensis and Nerine filifolia. I'm assuming it is best to sow them straight away?
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Gethyllis villosa, first flowers in a potful of seedlings from Silverhill seeds sown June 2012. Much faster to reach flowering than I had anticipated. The two flowers are from separate bulbs and have done exactly as usual for the genus - both appeared simultaneously on the same day last week in (presumably) response to the weather turning a bit cooler and/or barometric pressure dropping.
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Must say Darren, that I would have been pleasantly surprised by getting flowers in three years too. Seems very generous of some bulbs to act at speed when some take "forever" !
I like the pink flush from the centre of the flowers - is that typical?
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The pink flush does seem typical but variable looking at some pictures from elsewhere - you can see the intensity differs between my two clones as well.
I was shocked at the speed - many Amaryllids are notoriously slow. Though Haemanthus humilis hirsutus also managed it in 3 years for me.
You might have noticed the substrate. This is a moler based cat litter (Tesco low dust light weight to be exact) much used by the cactus growers these days. Behaves much like Seramis but is considerably cheaper.
I mention this because I believe it contributed to the speed with which the Gethyllis reached flowering size. Because of its porosity and structure it dries quite quickly and also encourages the plant to develop a strong root system. Gethyllis I've found prone to rotting in a 'soil' substrate but love this stuff. Most importantly it allows more frequent watering and therefore liquid feeding than a soil substrate which retains a lot of water.
I continue to experiment with using this. Paul Cumbleton's findings with Seramis and fritillaria were that it grows bulbs well and massively reduces the repotting chores associated with more organic substrates that decompose - provided the feeding regime (including trace elements) is suitable. I have found with seedlings that in warm summers it can easily over-dessicate small seedling bulbs when dry so I modify it for seed sowing with a little composted bark.
One of the findings of Susan's college experiment with the stuff was that, used pure, it even kills Sedum by drying them out via the roots if allowed to get really dry under glass. Simply adding 25 percent 'compost' prevented this effect.
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You might have noticed the substrate. This is a moler based cat litter
Hi Darren, did you use straight cat littler or mix it with the 25% organics for Gethyllis?
when do you start to water these? after your see growth or?
Thanks
Rimmer
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Hi Rimmer - The seeds were sown in a mix with 25% organics but after their first year they were moved into a much less organic mix - maybe 10% organics at most. I can just see a few flakes of bark on the surface in the picture. Watering starts early September with the other Cape bulbs.
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Gethyllis villosa, first flowers in a potful of seedlings from Silverhill seeds sown June 2012. Much faster to reach flowering than I had anticipated. The two flowers are from separate bulbs and have done exactly as usual for the genus - both appeared simultaneously on the same day last week in (presumably) response to the weather turning a bit cooler and/or barometric pressure dropping.
Really lovely Darren, haven't had much luck with this bulb so its good to hear your thoughts in your later post.
Angie :)
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Gethyllis villosa, first flowers in a potful of seedlings from Silverhill seeds sown June 2012. Much faster to reach flowering than I had anticipated. The two flowers are from separate bulbs and have done exactly as usual for the genus - both appeared simultaneously on the same day last week in (presumably) response to the weather turning a bit cooler and/or barometric pressure dropping.
Very nice, Darren.
The Gethyllis genus is new to me, but I was surprised to note it in flower so early. Reading up, it would appear to flower much earlier than other members of the genus. I would have been tempted to start watering as soon as the flowers appeared, but waiting till autumn presumably mimics the natural season in South Africa.
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Thanks Angie & Chris,
I noticed yesterday that another seedling in the pot has put up a flower bud. Still bone dry and will stay that way for a few weeks yet.
Some more South Africans - opposite ends of the spectrum with regards attractiveness:
Wurmbea sp (LEG203?) This was from AGS seed listed with this collection number in 2006 2010. I did once ask on the forum if anyone knew anything about it but got no reply. I'm guessing it is from Lesotho and is summer growing. The second picture has my finger nail for scale!
Then there is Haemanthus humilis hirsutus. The pot had 5 flower spikes last year (all from separate bulbs/clones) and set loads of seed, which may have discouraged it from flowering so well this year. Or maybe it just wants repotting. This is getting a little water now as it starts showing leaves.
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Wurmbea sp (LEG203?) This was from AGS seed listed with this collection number in 2006. I did once ask on the forum if anyone knew anything about it but got no reply. I'm guessing it is from Lesotho and is summer growing. The second picture has my finger nail for scale!
Yes, you asked about this in 2011 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=7853.0), Darren.
I now know that LEG stands for the Lesotho-Edinburgh-Gothenburg Botanical Expedition :)
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Thanks Maggi - I'd guessed LEG was something like that. 2011? Even when I wrote 2006 I was sure I hadn't had the plant as long as that but given how time flies these days....
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But maybe the AGS seed was from 2006, Darren?
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But maybe the AGS seed was from 2006, Darren?
This seed was listed in the AGS 2006/07 list, as garden collected, in order words it was perhaps second or third generation from the original collection LEG Lesotho-Edinburgh-Gothenburg Botanical Expedition which was in 1997.
Here's the link to RBGE listing the plant as
Wurmbea burttii (http://elmer.rbge.org.uk/bgbase/livcol/bgbaselivcol.php?cfg=bgbase/livcol/bgbaseacc.cfg&acc__num=19972430&queryRow=1)
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Thanks Diane - that's brilliant :)
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I have to grow the ornamental romuleas in pots because R. rosea is a major pest here and we instinctively pull it up if we sight it in the garden!
We have a few in flower now:
Romulea sabulosa is a brilliant colour but needed more sun to open wide;
Romulea tetragona has different foliage but I'll still keeping it in a pot!
Romulea hirta came labelled something else but I'm pretty sure of its identity now,
cheers
fermi
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Fermi,
I grow ornamental Romuleas too. So far none of them have turned out to be a thug, however I have not grown R. rosea either. By what means is R. rosea a pest? Seed? Bulb division? All of the above?
Romulea are easy enough in containers and look good too.
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Hi Robert,
Mostly seed - I think most seedpods contain a few dozen seeds which can persist in the ground for ages.
Considering it could only have come to Australia after white settlement it is amazing how it has spread around southern Australia. We have paddocks where there is more romulea than grass!
cheers
fermi
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Hi Robert,
Mostly seed - I think most seedpods contain a few dozen seeds which can persist in the ground for ages.
Considering it could only have come to Australia after white settlement it is amazing how it has spread around southern Australia. We have paddocks where there is more romulea than grass! :o :o :o
cheers
fermi
Fermi,
For me, it seems that caution is advisable. Thank you.
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Robert,
you can understand our concerns! ;D
Perhaps not exactly a bulb, but this Bulbinella came to us via a Seedex as B. cauda-felis but it appears more likely to be Bulbinella eburnifolia. Anyone able to confirm or reject this suggestion?
cheers
fermi
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Lapeirousia oreogena
Babiana odorata seedling (so it may've hybridised with B.pygmaea)
Moraea macronyx
Moraea bipartita
cheers
fermi
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Fermi,
Lovely Moraeas. Do you grow them out in the garden or only in pots protected from frost?
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Hi Robert,
I grow most of them in the garden - M. bipartita is in pots as they are relatively new; M.macronyx gets lost in the garden and is so nice to smell that I prefer to keep it potted. They aren't protected from frost where I grow them,
cheers
fermi
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Fermi,
Thank you so much for the information. I have a batch of Moraeas that could go out in the garden soon. I think we could be a bit colder at our farm here in California. Most likely I will keep some back-ups in pots in case things go wrong out in the garden.
Fantastic plants being posted from you folks in Australia and New Zealand. We have nothing like this at all in this part of California. Most of the creative plant activity occurs near the California coast, a long way from where we live. It is very inspirational for us who are very isolated. :)
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Fermi I grew Moraea macronyx from seed and it flowered this year. Three blooms, each time the bud opened during the day when I was at work and each time it was finished by the time I got home in the evening! I never saw it properly out. :'(
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Fermi I grew Moraea macronyx from seed and it flowered this year. Three blooms, each time the bud opened during the day when I was at work and each time it was finished by the time I got home in the evening! I never saw it properly out. :'(
Plants like that deserve a visit to your workplace ;D
My co-workers got used to me bringing in a box of plants in pots for me to photograph when they opened.
And Moraea macronyx (Macro-nix or Macron-ix?) is certainly worth sniffing!
cheers
fermi
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A couple more flowers have opened on Lapeirousia oreogena, so here are 2 more pics.
Hesperantha latifolia is small but has "flower power" ;D
Geissorhiza inflexa is just starting but really needs more sun to open up fully!
Ixia rapunculoides is an old favourite that I've only just got back to flowering size and I need to find a place for it in the garden,
cheers
fermi
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Babiana ringens, complete with perch for pollinating birds. Tomorrow's evolution lesson sorted. 8)
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Babiana ringens, complete with perch for pollinating birds. Tomorrow's evolution lesson sorted. 8)
Nice Anthony .I've seen it flowering in an alpine house near Gore but my bulbs refuse to bloom.
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Seed was labelled "Scampton March 2012" and just grows in a pot amongst all the others on the gravel border at the back of the garden.
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Not as flamboyant as yours, Anthony, but this Babiana pygmaea isnow flowering now;
Lachenalia bolusii x 2
Gladiolus abbreviatus
Geissorhiza ornithogaloides
cheers
ferni
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Great plants Fermi.
The lower back of those lachenalia leaves is fantastic 8)
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The lower back of those lachenalia leaves is fantastic 8)
Hi Ashley,
almost as good as some of the Arisaema!
Lachenalia mutabilis, just starting to flower,
cheers
fermi
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from the other end of the spectrum Nernine platypetala from Mpumalanga is in bloom here in the Northern Hemisphere
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Gladiolus abbreviatus
cheers
ferni
Fermi
What an oddball .... :) however I like it .
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from the other end of the spectrum Nernine platypetala from Mpumalanga is in bloom here in the Northern Hemisphere
A real beauty!
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from the other end of the spectrum Nernine platypetala from Mpumalanga is in bloom here in the Northern Hemisphere
Does anyone else question the identify of this Nerine? N. platypetala is supposed to have flattish petals. This evergreen Nerine may be N. angustiflora.
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Yup, definitely not platypetala; don't think there's an angustiflora, but it could certainly be angustifolia
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Does anyone else question the identify of this Nerine? N. platypetala is supposed to have flattish petals. This evergreen Nerine may be N. angustiflora.
Lovely N. platypetala pix here from Michael Myers https://www.facebook.com/Snowdropman/posts/10207718854474352 (https://www.facebook.com/Snowdropman/posts/10207718854474352) or try http://www.facebook.com/Snowdropman/posts/10207718854474352 (http://www.facebook.com/Snowdropman/posts/10207718854474352) - one should work!
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Some more spring flowerers at our place:
Mixed Hesperantha
Hesperantha vaginata
Hesperantha vaginata ssp stanfordiae, including some forms looking like the "type"!
A pure yellow form,
cheers'fermi
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Hesperantha coccinea, possibly 'Major'. I planted this so long ago I had forgotten about it and had assumed it had died out. Never flowered before. Seems the recipe for success is patience, neglect, and favourable weather.
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..........................Seems the recipe for success is patience, neglect, and favourable weather.
Maybe that's why mine is flowering as well ;D
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I am now living in the Western Cape, near the town of Swellendam. My bulb collection took great strain by the move but, is recovering well. My Moraea elagans never did very well before but, are flowering magnificently this spring - they enjoy being home! It never ceases to amaze me how the dark markings on the "petals" give a 3d look to the flower - dark passages leading to the center of the flower (can insects see in 3d?) :)
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Hope you are feeling happily settled after the move, too, Rogan.
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Oh, Maggi, I'm home at last - I just love it here! The wind is something else though - blows constantly from different directions ::)
Another Moraea, M. tricolor, flowering non-stop this spring - I think, the prettiest of all (?) 8)
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Oh, Maggi, I'm home at last - I just love it here! The wind is something else though - blows constantly from different directions ::)
Another Moraea, M. tricolor, flowering non-stop this spring - I think, the prettiest of all (?) 8)
That is very good news. Wind is strengthening - or so my Mum used to tell me!
Moraea tricolor is lovely - though they're all pretty good from where I'm sitting.
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While we're (I'm!) on the subject of Moraea: here's M. ciliata in flower a kilometer or so from where I live - it has the strong, sweet scent of cloves to add to the allure of the flower.
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Good to see you back Rogan.
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Thanks David. I've been lurking for the last few months while I got myself settled here in the Western Cape - it's good to be back.
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My Moraea setifolia, with thumbnail sized flowers, is putting up a good display of very short lived flowers. Last as long as Ferraria crispa - less than 12 hours. Watsonia laccata (hybrid?) is looking good too.
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Your plant resembles W. laccata closely, Antony, as I see it. The local populations are pink, for the most part but, often hybridize with W. aletroides, which is very widespread around here, leading to a whole range of intermediate forms.
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Good to have you back, Rogan!
cheers
fermi
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Thanks, Fermi, I had a traumatic move (aren't all moves traumatic?) to the Western Cape but, I have finally settled down and, with time on my hands, to enjoy the forum once more 8)
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Spring is all about us, and this weird combination was quite eye-catching: Lachenalia orchioides and Babiana patula.
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Oh, Maggi, I'm home at last - I just love it here! The wind is something else though - blows constantly from different directions ::)
Another Moraea, M. tricolor, flowering non-stop this spring - I think, the prettiest of all (?) 8)
That is lovely Rogan. This and M papillionacea have been a source of great frustration for me. Seed from suppliers in SA rarely germinates (or immediately damps off) and seed from exchanges invariably turns out to be M. vegeta.
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Good to have you back Rogan. I think of you at least 3 times a weeks when I water my pots of Cyrtanthus contractus from your seed!
My that is a a stout stem on the Lachenalia.
john
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Wow! That is a nice outcome, John - I'm pleased you had such success! Ditto for my pot of Nerine sarniensis, they are extremely happy to be back in the Western cape and have perked up immeasurably, judging by the bulging pot of bulbs! ;D
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Here are a few South African bulbs a bit further from home than Rogan's ;D
Hesperantha bachmannii - delightful, but the scent's a bit strange and it has a tendency to seed itself around!
A stray lachenalia in the rock garden...maybe Lachenalia pallida?
Gladiolus gracilis
cheers
fermi
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Gladiolus gracilis is certainly one of my favorite glads, with an amazing scent too. I encountered a small group of them growing in an abandoned wheat field recently - most of the flowers displayed unusual colours ranging from greyish-pink to bright blue.
This one (G. tristis?) I spotted nodding beside our dam yesterday, in the early morning light.
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Could the latter be a pale G. liliaceous, Rogan? This species is also night-scented and moth pollinated and flowers a bit earlier than G. tristis.
Have a look later in the day and see if the colour changes. That said - it doesn't look quite right for liliaceous - the segments are often wavy-edged which isn't present in your specimen. The back of the lower flower suggests the colour is there in a speckled pattern, which would be right for liliaceous.
Either way it is a lovely gladdy.
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That's the thing about moving to a new area, everything is unknown and exciting! Now that I've got Darren firing on all cylinders ;) - I encountered only one plant of this particular Eriospermum species - any suggestions for a name?
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I wish! Eriospermum are a complete mystery to me!
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Spring is all about us, and this weird combination was quite eye-catching: Lachenalia orchioides and Babiana patula.
Rogan,
I only have Lachenalia orchioides v glaucina here and it only came into flower this week,
cheers
fermi
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Lachenalia contaminata in the rock garden
cheers
fermi
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Good clump, fermi - is that all from vegetative increase or is it seeding too?
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Hi Maggi,
I think it's mostly vegetative but it does set seed so some are probably seedlings.
My favourite Pelargonium is the evening scented Pelargonium triste which flowers in spring if we don't get a late frost! It is geophytic so I presume it could be shown here,
cheers
fermi
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So many exsquisite Lachenalias there Fermi!
john - thoroughly drenched overnight. The area around Wrightman's appears to have had 133mm in just a few hours, trust all's ok.
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john - thoroughly drenched overnight. The area around Wrightman's appears to have had 133mm in just a few hours, trust all's ok.
That's a lot of rain :'(
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Hi Maggi,
I think it's mostly vegetative but it does set seed so some are probably seedlings.
My favourite Pelargonium is the evening scented Pelargonium triste which flowers in spring if we don't get a late frost! It is geophytic so I presume it could be shown here,
cheers
fermi
Love the pellie. Would it's furry foliage detar your latest herbivore?
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Wow! That's a fine specimen of P. triste, Fermi. Mine is just starting back into growth after a good baking this summer. One day it might make as fine a show.
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Love the pellie. Would it's furry foliage detar your latest herbivore?
Maggi,
as far as I see, the roo only eats grass....and whatever's mixed with it!
Here's a cluster (can't call anything this graceful a "clump"!) of Moraea aristata in a sand bed
cheers
fermi
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That is so nice, Fermi. I do so enjoy Moraeas!
This is definitely a "clump": another large specimen of Babiana patula beside our road and, a little further, dozens of flowering Gladiolus grandiflorus.
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Wow! That's a fine specimen of P. triste, Fermi. Mine is just starting back into growth after a good baking this summer. One day it might make as fine a show.
Matt,
in the evening it is superbly scented and worth waiting for!
In the garden this afternoon a yellow Spiloxene capiensis was in flower;
In a pot Geissorhiza tulbaghensis;
Ixia trifoliata;
Ixia and moraea in the South African Sand-bed;
An ixia with long-petalled yellow flowers
cheers
fermi
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Someone has asked to separate the 2 hemispheres, so here's the start of the SH one! (Maggi can probably separate out the SH posts out of the other Thread which can be renamed later I'm sure!
Here are more Ixia pics, from the sand=bed,
cheers
fermi
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??? :o Why?
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??? :o Why?
Hi Rogan,
I think it confuses some people to have Spring and Autumn flowering species in the same thread.
cheers
fermi
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Fermi:
If that's true we need a geography thread as well{:-)
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Gladiolus virescens is in flower, perfuming the area with a violet scent,
cheers
fermi
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Oh wow fermi, I love your gladiolus. I've sown a couple of similar species, but they are not flowering age yet. I didn't realise they were scented. I have small plants of watermeyeri and ceresianus.
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Hi Jamus,
I didn't realise it either until they flowered.
A first flower on Moraea macrocarpa - just as well that I got the pic in the morning - took it to the meeting on Saturday and by 3pm it had completely shrivelled!
cheers
fermi
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I am rather busy at the moment and not really equipped to make edits to the threads to show which are summer or winter flowering species and a geographical thread may not help with that distinction - but it might be more useful if instead of making a split, those of you who regularly post here, would ..a) be sure to add a line to your signature box to say where you live - northern or southern hemisphere - and also state whether the plants you have posted about are summer or winter growing. Presumably those of you growing these plants over time are aware of that?
Perhaps some of you experienced growers might like to make a useful list of winter versus summer growers to post ??
Meantime I'll rejoin this thread to the previous one.
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Babiana ringens, complete with perch for pollinating birds. Tomorrow's evolution lesson sorted. 8)
Our plant of Babiana ringens is in the rock garden and only flowering now, a whole month after Anthony's,
cheers
fermi
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I enjoy your Babiana, Fermi, replete with its ridiculous "bird-perch".
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I've now got big fat seed pods. 8)
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Here's two stages of Gethyllis linearis.
Flowers in July, seed pod with emergent leaf tips on another bulb now.
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Here's two stages of Gethyllis linearis.
Flowers in July, seed pod with emergent leaf tips on another bulb now.
Fascinating - could be something from under the sea!
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I got this gladdie from Greg Boldiston of Longinomus Plants in Romsey. He enthused about its scent when it undergoes a colour change in the evening.
No change at sunset but later the difference was amazing and the scent is great too,
cheers
fermi
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The capacity of plants to amaze, delight and probably confuse us, too, is endless, isn't it? 8)
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Growing somewhere between the tomatoes and the bell peppers my Nerine Bowdenii are in full display nowadays. And the shelter they receive in the greenhouse is very beneficial to the flowering.
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I look forward to this time of the year when Lachenalia nervosa (syn. L. latifolia) blooms; its sweet-scented flowers can fill a room with fragrance if brought indoors in a pot.
The hills are alive with thousands of Moraea bellendenii flowers at the moment. This is a slender Moraea that looks good in the garden if planted en masse.
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Rogan,
I enjoy seeing your native flora. For me very 8) .
If I understand correctly the photographs are from your local area, i.e. zone 10ish and summer dry (i.e. no rain during the summer like most of California)?
What are the summertime maximum temperatures in your area? Coastal California can be very lacking in rainfall during the summer but the summertime fog from the ocean keeps temperatures very cool, and things somewhat moist (kind a' like parts of Coastal Chile) compared to inland areas like where we live where it can get very hot. Maybe South Africa has a similar weather situation near where you live?
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As a matter of interest - following discussion of these plants in the AGS Harlow Carr show thread....
Quoting from Motomu Nagaoka on Facebook - alongside photos of Polyxena/Lachenalia - pygmaea, ensifolia and longituba --------
"subgenus Polyxena another 3 species
I quote the part of the key table about these 3 species below as same as last raised."
Key to the species of subgenus Polyxena
1a Perianth tube 12-27 mm long ......................................2
1b Perianth tube 3-8 mm long ..........................................4
2a Style 24-36 mm long; filaments well exerted; flowers almond-scented; seeds globose ......................................................................L. pygmaea
2b Style 11-20 mm long; filaments included to shortly exerted; flowers spicy sweet-scented; seeds ovoid ....................................3
3a Perianth tube subterranean; outer tepals 4-5 mm wide ...L. longituba
3b Perianth tube aerial; outer tepals 2-3 mm wide ................L. ensifolia
[attachimg=1]
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Thanks Maggie so which one is this one? came as Polyxena sp? Silverhill 4748
the leaves are about 1" long. flower is gone now- bloomed a few weeks ago.
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My guess is P. ensifolia - but it's just a guess - you're in a better position to make measurements etc, Rimmer .... in another FB post, Motomu Nagaoka quotes this ( automatic translation, so a bit idiosyncratic!)
"The following is about polyxena ensifolia.
First of all,-bear air differences, but the pivot bear air flowers (style) is 24-36 mm length is for, p. Ensifolia and p. Longituba is length 11-20 mm. And then, Pivot Bear Air's seed is round (Globose) for, the latter of the two egg-shaped. P. Ensifolia and p. Longituba key difference of the flowers, and the latter is when the land of the present, p. Ensifolia flowers is far from the ground, and they have a tip of the axis.
I write in pygmaea from the history, p. Ensifolia is p. Pygmaea and these can be confused.
In addition, this species is also variants, sub-species Polyxena ensifolia subsp. Ensifolia and p. Ensifolia Subsp. Maughanii. Standard Sub-species is a long of three books and the 内花 (all the bull and to all the flowers) is a cylinder to jut out from subsp. Maughanii is the flowers in the cylinder to fit. " !!
It would be much easier to get the Duncan book and read it in English.
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This moraea came "free" in a pot with another bulb many years ago and I think it is Moraea gracilenta,
cheers
fermi
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Moraea polystachya
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A lovely potful at this time of year Michael 8)
How long do moraeas from seed normally take you to flower?
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Some of them flower quicker that other. Lurida can flower three years from seed, most of the others about four.
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This one is usually late.
Eucomis vandermerwei
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How long do moraeas from seed normally take you to flower?
Some of them flower quicker that other. Lurida can flower three years from seed, most of the others about four.
This Moraea polyanthos is right on cue then - it is from NZAGS Seedex 2011 (but actually sown in July 2012)
cheers
fermi
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Strumaria truncata -pink and green yellow forms
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Strumaria watermeyeri
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Polyxena corymbosa :)
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Lachenalia pusilla Didn't expect these to flower so soon, sown Jan 2012, so didn't pot them on this year. Hope when they are better spaced the leaves will prostrate themselves, or is this affected by light levels?
Erle from darkest Anglesey
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Lachenalia rubida, purple leaf :)
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I am enjoying the flowers of two late-season bulbs at the moment: Tritonia deusta, carpeting the ground in places and T. flabellifolia with more modest flowers, peeking out here and there:
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very nice YT
Rogan, lovely to see them in the wild, more please!
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Thanks, Mark!
Polyxena ensifolia (Syn. P. pygmaea)
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Beautifull display YT.
Wished I could grow such beauties here.
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I got this Ixia polystachya from Greg Boldiston at Longinomus Plants - he wasn't sure that it's correctly named, but the entry on the PBS site says it can be variable - though it doesn't match any of the pics there!
Any comments or suggestions?
cheers
fermi
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I got this Ixia polystachya from Greg Boldiston at Longinomus Plants - he wasn't sure that it's correctly named, but the entry on the PBS site says it can be variable - though it doesn't match any of the pics there!
Any comments or suggestions?
cheers
fermi
I think it's within the accepted variation, isn't it? Paul T. mentioned some which sound very like it here : http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=4639.msg119518#msg119518 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=4639.msg119518#msg119518)
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I think it's within the accepted variation, isn't it? Paul T. mentioned some which sound very like it here : http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=4639.msg119518#msg119518 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=4639.msg119518#msg119518)
I don't think that Paul T posted pics of his that year.
Interestingly the pics pf Ixia polystachya on the PBS sitehttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/IxiaFour (http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/IxiaFour) look a lot like some of the seedlings we're getting from 'Tea'" which might be why it is sometimes believed to be the other parent (of 'Teal')
cheers
fermi
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No pix - but he mentions similar variations which he seemed not to doubt were within the ID, which seemed to chime with other comments here and there. Only difference I can see with yours is a slight difference in throat colour from the various pix of the species available - what do you see to make you doubt it?
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Lachenalia ‘November Fantasia’ and L. viridiflora
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Tatsuo - those lachenalias are adorable!
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An article on a successful protection measure for plants in ZA :
Kenilworth Racecourse: Refuge for a flora on the edge
http://www.capetownbotanist.com/2015/11/kenilworth-racecourse-refuge-for-flora.html (http://www.capetownbotanist.com/2015/11/kenilworth-racecourse-refuge-for-flora.html)
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Lachenalia viridiflora in Michigan in a basement under T-5 lights.
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Daubenya zeyheri from McMaster seed started in 2012.
under lights but not directly
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Daubery zeyheri from McMaster seed started in 2012.
under lights but not directly
Hi Rimmer. Shouldn't that be "daubenya".
John B
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Yes
darn auto correct
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Arnold/Rimmer - thanks for sharing your experiences of using fluoros and HIDs. Indoor growing under lights seems to be much more popular in the States than in the UK, thereagain we don't have to cope with such extreme winter temperatures! As you say, the various types of fluorescent lamps are much cheaper to run than halides/sodium lights and LEDs would be even more cost efficient (I'm starting to replace my house halogen downlighters with LEDS). As I suspected though, it's the start-up costs of an LED set-up that's the killer at the moment. Perhaps as they become more popular the prices may start to fall? They run much cooler than flouros and HIDs of course which is a bonus.
am hoping to switch to using LED lights for propagation-does anyone have experience to share in this regard
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Paul mentions LED lights in this post ....http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=15942.msg398944#msg398944 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=15942.msg398944#msg398944)
Several other mentions of growing under lights in the forum - but often fluorescent....
here are a few more posts that might give you a lead on who to ask for help....
http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=14983.msg385136#msg385136 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=14983.msg385136#msg385136)
http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=13900.msg367008#msg367008 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=13900.msg367008#msg367008)
http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=13901.msg385652#msg385652 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=13901.msg385652#msg385652)