Scottish Rock Garden Club Forum
Bulbs => Bulbs General => Topic started by: Alessandro.marinello on April 12, 2011, 09:00:49 PM
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my first Alstroemeria in flower this year
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It's lovely Allessandro, I think mine are all dead this year after such a cold winter :'(
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Thanks Peter
sorry for your plants, I have held to +7, but it resists also to +2
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my new green house will be +2, I had some alstromarias for 8 years. 2 survived last winter at -15 but not this one at -18! :'(
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Leucocoryne purpurea
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I seems the leucocoryne is pleasantly scent in the morning as well.
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Comes from a mild region in norther Chile with a hot dry summer.
Chilean bulbs and corms are comparatively very difficult to grow.
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I'm not sure this is the right place to post some oxalis.
Oxalis laciniata x enneaphylla "Ione Hecker"
Oxalis laciniata "Gwen McBride"
Oxalis adenophylla x enneaphylla "Anne Christie"
Oxalis adenophylla
Oxalis adenophylla "Purple Heart"
Oxalis laciniata "Ridgeway Jewel" (a seedling form O. "Seven Bells")
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Most probably as they are native of southern South America
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Friends, my apologies for getting the South African and South American threads mixed up . :-[ :-[
I have tried to sort them out... if you can find any more stray posts in either South African Bulbs 2011 or Bulbs from South America 2011, please send me a note and I'll fix it. :-X
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Tristagma nivalef nivale F&W 10284
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Exceptionally well grown, Peter. Tristagmas are difficult to tame.
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Thankyou Alberto, it was indeed difficult to please in a pot but grows well in the ground. It's root system goes very deep.
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That's right, Peter. Patagonian bulbs and tubers grow in screes in slopes. Tropaeolums, Tristagmas, Rhodophialas, and Alstroemerias (although not bulbs) all grow under those conditions where the roots are cool.
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It has Tropaeoleum polyphyllum for company Alberto and a lot of gravel.
I believe many people associate screes with hot condidions but I think of stones and gravel top dressing as a way to insulate the roots in order to keep them cool and /or stop them drying out.
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That's the way it works in the wild and the "soil" can be gravel and nothing else.
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Superb Tristagma, Peter!
One of my favourites are Conantheras - this one from seeds I colleced a few years ago near Talca, VII. Region.
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Beautiful picture of a beautiful plant Hans.
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Very beautifull Conanthera Hans ;)
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Hans that is a stunning plant, I shall have to google them. ;)
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I must say, that this being a greater brother, if I put near H. lahue
Herbertia platensis in flower
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Superb Tristagma, Peter!
One of my favourites are Conantheras - this one from seeds I colleced a few years ago near Talca, VII. Region.
Hans is the Conanthera hardy for you?It is wonderfull.
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This is Cypella coelestis, a subtropical bulb, rather different than Herbertia lahue, that can take slight frosts without problems.
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Cylella coelestis has survived 3 winters here in Kansas USA, this last we had a low
of 19 below zero F. Also surviving our winter is Eucomis and Sprekelia, and Cypella herbertii.
John B
This is Cypella coelestis, a subtropical bulb, rather different than Herbertia lahue, that can take slight frosts without problems.
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Only by reverting its natural winter cycle to a summer one. It is still a subtropical bulb being killed by frosts during its normal winter cycle.
These occasional experiments do not imply the plant will become a cold climate one. Proof of it is how uncommon in cultivation it is.
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I possess Cypella coelestis, perhaps this being varying its, but I have not never seen with stems of 140 cm, but I trust myself the observations, I do not know the difference
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I have made a little of search, me seems of to have understood that the difference between the two species is in the form of the inner petals
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Which two species, Alessandro?
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Herbertia and Cypella
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Two forms of Alstroemeria speciosa, before have bloomed the May month
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Leucocoryne purpurea
They certainly are stunning plants Arnold, but not the easiest to grow in my experience.
Upon repotting one-year old seedlings recently it ocurred to me that they obviously will enjoy deep pots - all the little bulblings were seated firmly against the bottom of the pot! Needless to say, they are in deeper pots now. So, I hope for the best that they will enjoy their new homes and reward me with flowers in the not too distant future.
Does anyone know whether they enjoy acid or alkaline conditions where they grow in habitat?
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Slightly alkaline, but the habit of going deeper can be troublesome. In the wild they cover whole slopes of one hill and not the next one. Of course they have all the depth they want. Comparatively, Chilean bulbs are the most difficult of all to grow from seed.
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Here are some pics from my Alstroemeria from today - I have it bought last year in a good nursery .
The label says :
Alstroemeria aurantiaca
can anybody of the specialist confirm the ID ?
This plant grows free in my border without any protection and has survived this last strong winter !
Hans
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First of all I'm not an expert on Alstroemerias, but it could be a dark form of A. Aurantiaca. The most spread one is much lighter, but I have seen in nature some individuals like yours.
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Thank you Santiago for your comment !
Where did you see those Alstromerias in nature ? ( Argentina ? ,Chile ? )
In meantime I have looked the Kew register ....the acceptet name is A.aurea - A.aurantiaca is a synonym...
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In Neuquen Argentina. There were populations with some darker individuals, like a spot in a bigger lighter population. There were hibrids between the two colours, and not always the flowers were just a plain colour with the normal strippes and dots, but in some cases they have three petals lighter and three darker.
Unfourtunatelly it was raining heavy some times, and I wasn't carrying my camera.
In other locations in Neuquen I found entire populations of darker colour, but the darker ones where the ones that I see mixed with the lighter ones.
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Santiago - thank you for your explanations !
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In my zone, they are difficult in cultivation, they are happy when I see to bloom Rhodophiala
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Beauty Alessandro
I hope you have seeds
Roland
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thanks Roland
I make to know
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Very Beautiful Alessandro!
Hope you get lots of seeds to share!
Good luck.
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I've just noticed my pots of Rhodophiala phycelloides, R. andicola and R. rhodolirion as well as Phycella ignea are presently dormant. I can't recall when they last had leaves. Are they autumn/winter grower and should they be kept dry?
johnw
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John, andicola and rhodolirion are alpine and the cycle is the same as for tulips in the wild. Summer dormant but not HOT summer dormant.
Phycelloides and P. ignea are better grown as Cape bulbs, frost free. Dry summer dormant.
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John, andicola and rhodolirion are alpine and the cycle is the same as for tulips in the wild. Summer dormant but not HOT summer dormant.
Phycelloides and P. ignea are better grown as Cape bulbs, frost free. Dry summer dormant.
Thanks so much Alberto. I will follow your advice and await foliage once summer passes. I don't think hot will be an issue this year, even in the greenhouse.
johnw - +12c at midnight
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John,
They are Summer dormant, but don't spect leaves before Spring. I been told that in Autumn and Winter only roots are active. Autumn with some rain, Winter dry under snow, Spring moslty snow melting water, Summer dry. Leaves and flowers in Spring.
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Santiago, this is what tulips in the wild means. I assume growers in this forum are familiar with the growth cycle of tulips.
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Very Beautiful Alessandro!
Hope you get lots of seeds to share!
Good luck.
Thanks Santo
I hope also
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Santiago, this is what tulips in the wild means. I assume growers in this forum are familiar with the growth cycle of tulips.
Ok, I assume all must be familiar.
As I told you before I just study each genre as I grow them. I am truly ignorant about genres that are out of my wish list, even one as common as Tulips. I had avoided them in the past because they don't feel confortable in here. I'm just about to receive Tulipa Sprengerii seeds, the easiest as far as I know. And they be my first ones.
So, thanks. Now I know more about the Tulip growing.
I want to take advantage of this and ask you another question. Since they behave similarly in the wild. Would alpine Rhodophialas benefit from cold storage at a refrigerator? Have you tryed to approach to their temperature needs? Is there something that you think that could be done to grow them here?
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As you so clearly described, they need autumn rainfall to activate the roots that remain awaken in winter, under snow. In spring, foliage emerges and they receive abundant water from snow melt and rainfall. As with wild tulips, the leaf and flower production is very fast and by summer they are dormant again.
The problem in mild climates is that the overall temperatures are too high. In their native habitat these alpine Rhodophialas have cool nights even in the hottest of summer and the air is dry. One can trick them into giving constant low temperatures for an artificial autumn and spring but spring and summers with high temperatures day and night is too much for them.
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That is why my pots of alpine bulbs have a lot of gravel on top to insulate them ;D
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And a Peter Taggart to care for them!!!
Peter, we can grow bananas outdoors and the plants produce small fruits (not the huge ones from the tropics alas). One can not grow bananas and alpine Rhodophialas in the same climate. But, the list of bulbs we can grow well in this mild climate is huge.
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I grew some bananas from seeds for someone, the plant he gave back to me died after a couple of years. (interesting but unloved :-[ :-X :-[ )
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I am not surprised. What you CAN NOT grow?
The banana I mention is Musa paradisiaca, not ensete or the other semihardy ones.
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Would help to put them in a room colder than the outside temps in Summer? They wont have the natural oscilation of temp., But as they are dormant they wont miss the sun.
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I know this is an ID question, but since this is the thread where South american bulb specialists are around, I thought I'd post it here.
I grew this as Alstroemeria hookeriana from seed sown in January 2010.
Left undisturbed in their seedpot, one plant produced a flower spike already.
I have serious doubts as to if it's the right plant though.. :-\ The flowering stem is about 25 cm ?
Thanks for any opinion or help !
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Would help to put them in a room colder than the outside temps in Summer? They wont have the natural oscilation of temp., But as they are dormant they wont miss the sun.
I pot bulbs with these growing requirements in deep pots which are plunged in sand and I fill the top half of the pot with gravel. In hot summers I also cover the pots of dormant bulbs with a white sheet.
I do not grow Rhodophialas but I do grow tulip species quite successfully.
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My pots are 60 cm. high. From the beginning I thought that I was going to move then for approaching to their natural conditions. I had mixed some expanded polystyrene foam pieces(with the rocks, sand, vermiculite, perlite, etc.) to make them movable.
I like your method. It is good and Easier.
I was afraid to put then at a fixed location because we can have rains all around the year.
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Peter, please tell Santiago where you are located.
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Sorry, I was not clear, I wasn't saying that Peter and me got that rains. Neither I was thinking that we got the same temps.
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I am located in the UK. Normal temperatures for me range from - 10 C on cold nights in winter to + 25 C on hot days in summer. Cold winters approach -20C mild winters can be almost frost free.
Hot summers can excede 30C day time, for several weeks. Summer temperatures and dryness may occur at any time from March untill September though I have never known fluctuating cooler night temperatures to arrive later than mid August. A sunny greenhouse bench in March with a pot of damp tulip bulbs or an Onco Iris needs precautions here as much as anywhere else in the world.
Alberto, I merely sought to supplement your doubtless excellent advice, on growing Rhodophialias, with the knowlege I have (in the UK climate) of preventing bulbs overheating, by contriving to keep them deeper in their pots (or the ground) by providing several inches of gravel on top of the compost.
I have never gardend in tropical or subtropical conditions and do not pretend to know anything about doing so.
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One never stops learning. It is evident that Cape bulbs could not be grown in the UK yet yourself, David, Michael and Darren consistently produce scores of perfect specimens. The best growers can adjust their conditions until the plants look happy.
While one can theorically raise temperatures until the desired value, in our case (mild climate) there is no way we can provide cold conditions. Even in the fresher spot air is so hot that the plants have real difficulties for breathing. We can grow a number of cool/cold climate bulbs and perhaps even flower them ONCE but they gradually dwindle away. They use so much energy to cool down that there are no reserves to fatten the bulb. Our short chilly winter can give the false impression that it is similar to those in temperate Europe. While some days can be really chilly and a number of slight frosts occur, the warm season is lo long (now longer than ever before) and night temperatures so high that practically all temperate bulbs and plants succumb.
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The recently demolished alpine house at Kew addressed some of these problems with refrigerated benches, though I believe this aspect was not altogether successfull. Blowing air over water tanks and shading helps to keep a fresh atmosphere here, when heat is untimely for a plants growth cycle.
However I too find the greatest dificulty with plants from colder winters. The weather here is so erratic that mountain plants from very cold winter, continental climates cannot cope with untimely heat or cold. To grow them means combining a lot of tricks.
'The easiest trick' for these plants is to prevent freezing, thus removing the risk of untimely freeze and thaw. Along side this one has to manipulate the growth pattern to prevent growth too early in the year. This is often done by late planting and minimal watering.
I suspect that some South American plants may be used to a high altitude and tropical version of the British climate, also plants from the mountains in subtropical Africa. Some might adapt to the north Europaen climate? I suppose the difference is that in their homes these plants get a regular 24 hour cycle of weather? whreas in the UK frost, heat, rain and drought may each be prolonged -even for months. so I expect that those which would adapt would be the exceptions.
Have there been any experiments with refrigerating tulip bulbs either while dormant, or when newly rooting prior to top growth? in order to maintain them in sub tropical climates?
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Of course refrigerated benches would solve most of the problems but costs involved are impossible to even think about it.
An alpine house in N. England (and Scotland?) where species tulips could be grown would suit most alpine Rhodophialas along with plants that are not bulbs like Alstroemerias. But, care must be taken as the bulbs may be tender and plunging pots is very important.
Yes, a lot of refrigerating bulbs experiments have been made mostly in Holland but that procedure is techncally a forcing or at least, this is how the plants react to it.
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Another grower of cold winter bulbs, in eastern Europe, with reliable frosts, told me of how he allows his beds of bulbs to freeze deeply then insulates them against thaw untill the last frosts are gone.
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I should have said that refrigerating the bulbs to later move them to our normal warm outdoors conditions is technically a forcing.
Freezing them and then exposing them to cool spring weather as in Europe is of course close to ideal.
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PeterT:
"Have there been any experiments with refrigerating tulip bulbs either while dormant, or when newly rooting prior to top growth? in order to maintain them in sub tropical climates?"
As far as I know Mary Sue Ittner of the Pacific Bulb Society does just this to keep her species Tulips in good health:
"Pictures below show bulbs that I have been growing in Northern California for more than twenty years, stored dry in summer, prechilled for six weeks in November, and planted in pots."
http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TulipaSpeciesThree#praestans
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Rogan, the standard procedure is to prechill them for 12 weeks but only in order to have the stems elongate properly, otherwise they flower practically at ground level. It does not substitute a chilly winter.
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Luc, I love your Alstroemeria!
here is blooming A. pallida and A. psittacina
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Very pretty Rafa.
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PeterT:
"Have there been any experiments with refrigerating tulip bulbs either while dormant, or when newly rooting prior to top growth? in order to maintain them in sub tropical climates?"
As far as I know Mary Sue Ittner of the Pacific Bulb Society does just this to keep her species Tulips in good health:
"Pictures below show bulbs that I have been growing in Northern California for more than twenty years, stored dry in summer, prechilled for six weeks in November, and planted in pots."
http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/TulipaSpeciesThree#praestans
Thanks Rogan but my musings were really about finding a way of maintaining temperate bulbs in a tropical climate. As Alberto says the procedure Mary Sue Ittner is carying out would affect the flowering display but I expect her winters would be cool enough to grow the plants more naturally, and her summers not too long and hot/ humid to stress the bulbs stored dry and cool, or else in the ground.
Luc, I love your Alstroemeria!
here is blooming A. pallida and A. psittacina
Yes I agree Raffa, but yours are lovely too, as David says.
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"Thanks Rogan but my musings were really about finding a way of maintaining temperate bulbs in a tropical climate."
Well, what do you expect from someone who's never grown a Tulip in his life! Well, I do have 6 small seedlings... which does make me an expert you know ::) ;D
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I should be glad to know how they do, good luck with them
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Luc, I love your Alstroemeria!
here is blooming A. pallida and A. psittacina
Gorgeous Alstroemeria Rafa !! :o :o
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Very nice ones Rafa
I just ordered seeds from:
Alstroemeria diluta ssp. chrysantha
Alstroemeria graminea
Alstroemeria hookeri
Alstroemeria kingii
are there special tricks ???
sowing months ?
Roland
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Hi Roland,
Research at Wakehurst Place (Kew's other garden) has resulted in an improved method for breaking dormancy and achieving higher rates of germination for Alstroemeria. The method is:
Sow at high temperatures of 25 C daytime and min of 15 C night time and maintain these temperatures for at least 4 weeks.
Remove the seed and make a small chip out of each just above the embryo (which can be seen as a dark spot).
Re-sow the seeds and reduce the temperature to 10 C (which is the optimum, though germination will still occur at lower temperatures down to freezing point)
I'm afraid they did not say when to sow!
Paul
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Thanks Paul
I will try that
I asked for the best time for sowing
because my seeds come from Chile
I thought it was best sowing early autumn
but better to ask
Roland
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Folks, I have given the Mexican bulb, Sprekelia howardii its own thread. :)
http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=7526.0
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Although it's a little immature I'm quite pleased with this one. Sown late June 2008 and flowering for the first time. At around 60cm high it looks a bit daft in a 9cm pot and I'd be interested to know what size of pot others use and if they get away with it outside (in the UK)
Darren was kind enough to send me some seed which I sowed in May so eventually I may well have a clump!
Cypella herbertii
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Tried it outside twice David. no luck >:(, I keep it in a plastic long tom burried in sand under glass for the winter and drench it as often as I can remember when in growth. It's corms like to get deep down.
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Thanks Peter, I'll follow your regime.
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David
to be a little demanding plant, also I hold in pot from 9 cm, this year closing extended till two months
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very nice one David.
Sorry this is not a bulbose plant (like the alstroemerias I posted), but is from America.
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some days before I noticed this unidentified Lilium touched the neomarica making a very strong contrast of colours
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Amazing how fast the flowering stems develop on Rhodophiala. Here is what I received as R. elwesii and Alberto says it's is araucana, a pot of seedlings mostly terrcotta but a few later pale yellows to follow. You can see the flowers quickly go over when hand-pollinated yet all will set seed.
Apologies for the terrible photos, borrowed camera.
johnw - 18c and very blustery.
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Most extraordinary, John. By all means try to propagate your own seed as this is the beginning of the "taming" of this species.
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Most extraordinary, John. By all means try to propagate your own seed as this is the beginning of the "taming" of this species.
Great idea Alberto I will do that. And if openly I could tame some of the other ones but that would require flowering.
I will post what I have as araucana when it flowers. Seems to me I had montana & araucana seed from the Archibalds and reversed the labels so it may be montana according to Alberto.
johnw
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Beauties John
how old are they
Roland
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Beauties John
how old are they
Roland
Roland - They'll be 15 years old in October, from Harry Jans as Hippeastrum elwesii ex Goteborg. No party planned.
johnw
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Most extraordinary, John. By all means try to propagate your own seed as this is the beginning of the "taming" of this species.
Great idea Alberto I will do that. And if openly I could tame some of the other ones but that would require flowering.
I will post what I have as araucana when it flowers. Seems to me I had montana & araucana seed from the Archibalds and reversed the labels so it may be montana according to Alberto.
johnw
I agree. Although I am not expert to tell, It looks pretty much as the ones I saw some years ago in a valley between Argentina and Chile. The Valley were full of Rhodophiala Montana flowering in mid Summer. There were variations in colour(from light orange to yellow). A beautifull sight. The seeds have had germinative power for five years keept dry at the refrigerator.
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need a name
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Habranthus tubispathus, both forms.
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Habranthus tubispathus
Roland
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A few more Rhodophiala araucana pix showing the plain yellow one.
johnw
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Very pretty John, hope you get lots of seeds.
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Perfect John
I hope you didn't wait 15 years for the first flower
Roland
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Perfect John
I hope you didn't wait 15 years for the first flower
Roland
Roland - I think it was 5-6 years from seed.
johnw - +20c at 21:45
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Very pretty John, hope you get lots of seeds.
Thank-you very pretty Brian.
There should be plenty of seeds.
johnw
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Can I line up ???
Roland
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Given that it's 12C, grey, raining and thoroughly miserable here today (as it has been for the last three days) this is probably thinking why it's bothered to flower! Well, I suppose since it's also survived our last three winters in the garden it thought it may as well show willing.
Mrs N was heard to say "Oh sod it, I'm putting the heating on". A certain Aberdeen bulb grower will probably have an apoplexy at the thought of that!
Tigridia pavonia.
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I thought it was only here bad weather
Roland
(http://www.tiptopglobe.com/skin/smile/s2064.gif)
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Roland,
Where was this when we needed him/ her in spring, - you should have let it out earlier in the year ;D
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I couldn't find "it" either
I searched almost three months
but luckily Ray (A friend in Australia)
promised me this
and finally "it" arrived
Still I am happy with "it"
we are missing one meter water in my pond :o
Roland
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I'm very impressed Roland,
I think the missing meter in your pond must be getting shorter ;)
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Not really
the soil is absorbing everything :)
The very good thing
almost no slugs and snails :D
Roland
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Habranthus brachyandrus from Argentina and Brazil.
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Can we have a side view, Arnold?
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Very nice one Arnold
I like Habranthus and Zephyranthus
so many nice species
can this one handle cold ??
Roland
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Lovely little plant Arnold.
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Alberto: Side view. Habranthus brachyandrus cherry pink
Roland: spent winter in cold greenhouse to 40F
David:
Thanks the color is lovely.
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David
Nice Tigridia pavonia, how long do I have to wait before I get a lovely flower like that. Should I prick mine out now and put into individual pots.
Here are my babies, guess where my seed came from ;D.
Angie :)
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Arnold, it is robustus, not brachyandrus.
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David
Nice Tigridia pavonia, how long do I have to wait before I get a lovely flower like that. Should I prick mine out now and put into individual pots.
Here are my babies, guess where my seed came from ;D.
Angie :)
Angie, I'm no expert but on the basis that if you sowed them this year(?) I would be inclined to leave them in the seed pot for at least another year if not two (no harm in giving them an odd feed with half strength tomato fertiliser when in growth). After a couple of years, and whilst they are dormant, they should be big enough to tip out (may have to search through your compost a bit) and re-pot. Four years should give you a flower.
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Angie, it is unwise to prick bulbs in the seedling stage as the damage to the tiny roots is a disaster to them. Look at this stage for aphid and red spider mite attack.
Since they seem to be growing well with you, if they fill the pot with roots (and they appear out of the drainage holes) pot the whole rootball on to a larger pot without breaking it.
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Alberto:
I'll pass that along to Mary Sue, I think she donated it to the PBS BX/SX
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There are several variants of robustus around with fancy names, but of course they could only be true from offsets.
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Thanks for the advice for my Tigridia Pavonia seedlings. Will leave well alone.
David four years isn't to bad to wait for a wonderful flower like that. Will post a picture in 2015 ;D
Angie :)
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Exquisite colour Arnold.
So is it correctly then Habranthus robustus 'Cherry Pink'?
johnw
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It seems the cross of Rhodophiala araucana x advena did not take. Ploidy mis-match? The advena selfed has, though not robustly. I will have to try the reverse, avena x araucana on the last flower of the former.
johnw
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John:
So I guess it's Habranthus robustus 'Cherry Pink'?
Sent up a second spike three days later.
Arnold
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Arnold,
If it is seed grown then it is seed EX 'Cherry Pink' and shouldn't be labelled as the original. Too many things are mixed up under incorrect names already as people sown seed of it and then put the same name on the seedlings, which aren't the same thing at all. ::) I find it all the time where you buy something as a particular thing and find out it is seedlings of and may end up not even looking like the parent that it is supposed to be. :o Beautiful flower, whatever it's name. ;D ;)
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Paul:
It was a bx donation. I'll have to back go back and check who donated it.
Arnold.
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some iridaceae of the South and Central America
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some iridaceae of the South and Central America
Alessandro,
Very nice - you have an amazing collection! I'd not heard of the 3rd one; is it closely related to Cypella?
cheers
fermi
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Fermi, it is a tigridioid, the other species is better known, Ennealophus euryandrus. E. fimbriatus is very rare in cultivation although the Archibalds had it in their catalogue. Flowers in wild plants are a stunning deep ultramarine blue, but in cultivation a deep violet.
Rigidella orthantha (sometimes Tigridia orthantha) is a high altitude plant that inhabit the cool oak and pine forests in Mexican mountains.
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Cipura paludosa is in flower today thanks to Marcondes ;)
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Congratultions Miriam. :)
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Zephyranthes candida
Oxalis lobata
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Is it lobata proper or perdicaria, Michael?
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I have no Idea Alberto,(I thought they were the same thing)I got it with the label Lobata and have sort of ignored it ever since. It only comes to my attention when it flowers.
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It's not often I get a shock in the greenhouse unless something has collapsed from the lack of water. Yesterday I was utterly shocked when I spied this Rhodophiala getting ready to flower. It was sown in late January 2010, most likely from the SRGC judging from the date. It was simply labelled Rhodophiala species ex BEW. The colour is a strong yellow with dark bronzy red outers. Any ideas?
johnw
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It's not often I get a shock in the greenhouse unless something has collapsed from the lack of water. Yesterday I was utterly shocked when I spied this Rhodophiala getting ready to flower. It was sown in late January 2010, most likely from the SRGC judging from the date. It was simply labelled Rhodophiala species ex BEW. The colour is a strong yellow with dark bronzy red outers. Any ideas?
johnw
Habranthus tubispathus maybe John
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Thanks Davey, it's certainly a dead-ringer. I guess it's not known if it is native to the USA or was introduced.
johnw
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Thanks Davey, it's certainly a dead-ringer. I guess it's not known if it is native to the USA or was introduced.
johnw
I agree. H. tubispathus texanus or whatever name you like, it isn't a Rhodophiala. In my limited experience with Rhodophiala, they take many years from seed. H. tubispathus turns up in seed exchanges under all sorts of romantic names. Of course, I like it for itself, and there is a pot of it sitting in my greenhouse right now.
With no more evidence than anyone else has, or perhaps even less, I favor the notion that humans transported H. tubispathus to Texas from South America. But then I am notoriously non-xenophobic.
Jim
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Nothoscordum dialystemon flowering out of time
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Solaria autropurpurea has germinated for me ;D It was hardy for some years but -18 C last winter proved too cold for itdespite having survived the winter before at -15 C. I have tried, without success, to germinate the seed it set since I first aquired it about ten years ago. seeing it and some related bulbs in another collection last year I asked about germinating it. The sand was kept exceptionally wet and there were up side down pots on the bench which was aparently coverd in thick grass. The apparent "grass" was actually self seeding in the dark of the upturned pots. MY seed pot was coverd with another upturned pot, darkness seems to be the key to its germination.
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Peter, this is certainly a success, this group of bulbs are exceedingly rare and almost nothing is known about them from seed.
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Solaria autropurpurea has germinated for me ;D
Congratulations Peter!
Bessera elegans is flowering here.
Poul
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Thanks Poul. well done with the Bessera.
I think it has a wide distribution but cant remember exactly, and a strange climate too. Snails ate mine this year :(
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At our last Rock Garden Meeting at Ferny Creek Hort Society, another member, Andrew, brought a huge pot of Conanthera trimaculata which he'd grown from seed 15 years ago. It is possibly hybridised with C. campanulata
cheers
fermi
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in this time flowers Ipheion sessile very nice :D
Hans
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Very nice pots Hans
I wish mine where so good
Roland
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in this time flowers Ipheion sessile very nice :D
Hans
I fully agree Hans.
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Wonderfull Hans :D
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Thank you all :D
I did nothing special ....same treatment as my other Ipheion,Nothoscordum and Tristagma ( in summer dry ...watering after September )
I have Iph. sessile from two different sources ...but it seems it is all the same clone ...until now never seeds :-\
Good news from my Noth. hirtellum - I have it now managed to get plants from tree different sources - they flowers in same time and it seems the pollination was succsessfull ;D
Hans
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A couple of Cypella,s flowering now.bye Ray
Cypella herbertii
cypella aquatilis
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Wow Fermi never heard of that blue flower before. Lovely pot full.
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Fermi, thanks for showing this superb Conanthera trimaculata! This genus belongs to my favourites. Even if I remember the flower of the species more open, I think it is the straight species as a pot of Hybrids should vary widly - have seen a lot of Conantherahybrids in nature, but cannot remember to have seen any of the two mentioned species as I think I have not seen both species in the same locations. I remember C. trimaculata + C. bifolia (+ hybrids), C. trimaculata + C. bifolia + C. parvula (+hybrids) and C. campanulata + C. bifolia (did not find hybrids, flowering time hardly overlaps)