Scottish Rock Garden Club Forum
General Subjects => Flowers and Foliage Now => Topic started by: Véronique Macrelle on March 03, 2020, 12:18:16 PM
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what I think is Viola eizanensis
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Nice flowers, quite early! According photos in a small Japanese booklet 'eizanensis' is ok.
Viola chaerophylloides has similar but more finely divided leaves.
Gerd
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very early, yes, along with the Viola odorata
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Does anyone have growing tips for Parma violets? I grow lots of regular V. odorata, but haven’t grown Parmas before. Deep pot or wide? (They’re a little too tender for my climate, so I’ll need to overwinter them in a cool greenhouse, I think.) Add lots of grit, or not much? Fertilizer advice?
Any help appreciated!
Kelly
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Violas are very happy here
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I don't know much, but in my opinion the violet of Parma is a horticultural descendant of Viola suavis.
what I read: it is hardy in zone 8? (-7 to -11 ° C) and likes humus and draining soil.
I'm going to put Viola like yours in my garden, WSGR; what I would like are varieties with small flowers that are sown from year to year.
when I was little, there were some in my parents' garden. They existed there without being taken care of for decades. they looked like small faces.
that with large flowers, which are often sold, are too sophisticated for my taste.
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Thanks, Véronique! I’ll see how they do.
Here’s Viola glabella, blooming now in my garden.
— Kelly
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very beautiful Viola glabella!
I think I have a germination of the srgc exchangene germination de l'échange srgc
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Viola chaerophylloides 'Beni Zuru'
Not a good photo,but the first time the flowers have opened.
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Veronique, the native Viola tricolor is one you might like. It is usually annual with small blue, yellow and white flowers. Due to the destruction of much arable land for building and use of chemicals it is becoming rarer in the UK now.
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yes, I had harvested seeds of Viola tricolor var curtisii, the variety of dunes; I managed to get them to grow and bloom, in a pot of sand, but I don't know if they'll be able to re-seed themselves.
'Beni Zuru' is magnificent, my one-year-old plant has not passed the winter, so no flowers for me, it was the only germination of the Srgc exchange. a second year that I ordered these seeds,and I treated them at ga3! germination of stored seeds is difficult.
fortunately my plant had time to make a few seed capsules, fresh ones! and new seedlings grow well. the leaf is also very pretty.
is it not very rustic?
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Vlola chaerophylloides Beni Zuru grows very well with me and sows around
without any problems. (Different Clones maybe?) The plant at the photo has
some damaged flowers by night frost.
I got the other plant as Viola pachyrhiza, it came from the Iran, where it
grew in company with Dionysias. For my taste it looks more than V. spathulata.
Can one of the experts help me?
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I think my soil is a little too compact for Viola Beni Zuru, but by dint of seeding and having enough of it, (it sows easily from fresh seeds) I would get there ...
for the expert: wait for Gerd's visit! :D ;)
what a beauty this 2nd viola!
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I got the other plant as Viola pachyrhiza, it came from the Iran, where it
grew in company with Dionysias. For my taste it looks more than V. spathulata.
Can one of the experts help me?
Not from 'the expert' who is wrong frequently but from Rechinger, Flora Iranica:
Viola spathulata normally has short and dense pubescent leaves and clearly bearded lateral petals
while V. pachyrrhiza has only some scattered hairs on the leaves or these are nearly glabrous.
The lateral petals only with small papillalike hairs.
Viola spathulata is found only in the Elburs mountains, the other one is endemic in the Southwest of Iran.
I hope this is of some help.
Gerd
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I have begun making my list of seeds to look for in the next exchange, and violas will definitely be on it.
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Viola mandshurica, easy to grow
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Nice dark flowers Véronique!
I add Viola chaerophylloides here - obtained 2019 (as Viola ? chaerophylla)
Gerd
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Viola hirta from own collections decades ago flowers in profusion
Gerd
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Violets perform themselves at their best now
1. + 2. Viola riviniana Purpurea Group (labradorica purpurea)
3. Viola palmata - a questionable species
4. Viola somchetica
5. Viola chelmea
Gerd
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… and some more
1. Viola sororia rubra
2. Viola sororia var. priceana
3. Viola riviniana
4. Viola riviniana rosea
5. Viola glabella ex seeds from Robert
Gerd
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Viola douglasii
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49768426123_27d85ed81b_o_d.jpg)
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Viola douglasii is very beautiful ..
I think I have a Viola riviniana rosea spontaneously appeared in the garden, not far from the false 'V. labradorica '(a descendant?). its flowers are very broad, larger than 'V. Labradorian '
here I have trouble with my violets in the pot, it was too hot for them ...
and I need to restore my camera ...
I am glad to see Viola glabella as I can compare with the leaves of my January planting.
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Wow! Such a low and compact Viola douglasii. It seems it enjoyed sufficient sunshine!
Gerd
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Gerd,
You have some wonderful Viola species. Jasmin and I especially like Viola somchetica.
I am very pleased that you had success with Viola glabella. 8)
The Western North American dryland species are very challenging to grow in small containers. I am having success with some of our local dryland species; growing them in large tubs with a soil mixture that imitates their native soil. If you have space and the inclination you might want to give these beauties a try again. Viola tomentosa grows under extremely xeric conditions. In their native habitat, the solar radiation is very intense (actually flux density - intensity is related but something a little different) during the "spring" (June in their native habitat) and summer. On a clear day solar radiation peaks at over 1,000 Wm-2. The change in the Bowen ratio over the spring to summer/autumn season gives one a good idea of the change in sensible heat/latent heat fluxs that occur and the impact this has on the plant physiology.
We are still in lockdown/habor-in-place mode, but there is plenty to keep me busy.
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Viola douglasii
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49768426123_27d85ed81b_o_d.jpg)
Fantastic :) Grown in a pot?
I have young seedlings, don't know if I'll be able to see them flowering.
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Thanks Gabriela.
Yes it’s growing in a deep clay pot. The image was taken in such a way as to hide the pot.
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Gerd,
You have some wonderful Viola species. Jasmin and I especially like Viola somchetica.
I am very pleased that you had success with Viola glabella. 8)
The Western North American dryland species are very challenging to grow in small containers. I am having success with some of our local dryland species; growing them in large tubs with a soil mixture that imitates their native soil. If you have space and the inclination you might want to give these beauties a try again. Viola tomentosa grows under extremely xeric conditions. In their native habitat, the solar radiation is very intense (actually flux density - intensity is related but something a little different) during the "spring" (June in their native habitat) and summer. On a clear day solar radiation peaks at over 1,000 Wm-2. The change in the Bowen ratio over the spring to summer/autumn season gives one a good idea of the change in sensible heat/latent heat fluxs that occur and the impact this has on the plant physiology.
We are still in lockdown/habor-in-place mode, but there is plenty to keep me busy.
Thank you Robert for these detailed instructions - we just expierence an unsual spell of sunny days and it is easily visible how some violets react - I am aware that sufficient light is an important factor in cultivation. But unfortunately temperatures here do not allow to cultivate most of the western (US) violets outside und there is also a need to prevent the plants against too excess moisture. This requires a substantial additional effort (cultivation under glass, artificial light, heating).
I am not able to pay attention to all the aspects mentioned. So I will continue to figure out which species tolerate my possibilities. This leads to a restriction of the number of species which I will be able to cultivate for longer. But as a gardener I will continue to try and try again - Der Weg ist das Ziel - the journey is the reward!
Like you (and all our neighboring countries) we experience the stay at home mode.
Gerd
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Thanks Gabriela.
Yes it’s growing in a deep clay pot. The image was taken in such a way as to hide the pot.
Thanks Steve, this would also be a good option for me if not so cold in the winter here. I will look into a weather/cold resistant containers that are on the market now.
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Viola brevistipulata hidakana
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some violets
1. Originally planted as Viola hispida but since then it used numerous opportunities to hybridize
2. + 3. Viola rubella from Chile
4. Outstanding lavender coloured Viola epipsila
Gerd
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Here are pics of Viola riviniana and V. reichenbachiana
and of the site where it grows here
Gerd
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You have a great collection Gerd. I really like rubella 8)
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Viola rubella - an odd growth pattern for a violet. But no wonder: it is from South America. Is the stem woody, or is it a tender plant that is not very cold hardy?
The flower is almost symmetrical!
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Thank you Ashley!
@Rick: Yes the stem is woody and it will be able to reach a height of about 60 cm.
It is not hardy, i. e. temperatures below - 5 ° Celsius are most be avoided.
Gerd
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my V.rubella are only 3 cm tall at the moment.
I really like the elegant silhouette of Viola brevistipulata hidakana. I hope one day that its seeds will return to the srgc list ...
here is Viola jordanii, a fairly large violet (flowers and plants). I sowed it last year and for a year, I thought it was poorly identified because it did not yet have its stipules so characteristic.[attachimg=1]
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here is the pink violet which was sown all alone in the garden, in the middle of a foot of Phlox subulata. Is this a Viola riviniana rosea Gerd?
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Viola verecunda
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here is the pink violet which was sown all alone in the garden, in the middle of a foot of Phlox subulata. Is this a Viola riviniana rosea Gerd?
I think you are right Véronique - (sorry for the late reply)
Gerd
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Here are yellow Viola nuttallii, biflora and a white form of Viola canina
Gerd
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Oh! i love Viola nutallii!
Viola biflora flowers in my home for the first time, but I find its flowers too tiny (4 mm), I must not cultivate it properly.
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Véronique,
It seems to me your Viola biflora is fine. The flowers are always quite small.
Gerd
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A few Viola species seen yesterday in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of California.
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Viola purpurea ssp. purpurea – 3,625 feet (1,105 meters), canyon of the South Fork of the American River.
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Viola purpurea ssp. integrifolia – 5,125 feet (1,562 meters), Peavine Ridge, growing in rocky andesite based soil. Subspecies integrifolia is generally associated with soils based on plutonic type rock (at least in our area).
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Viola sheltonii – 5,125 feet (1,562 meters), Peavine Ridge. A very early blooming species – the last of the flowers at this site.
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A few Viola species seen yesterday in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of California.
The western yellow ones - a dream! Thank you Robert!
Gerd
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superb !
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This is Viola striata - a little bit weedy but kept under control easily
Gerd
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Gerd,
The Viola purpurea group, as well as V. tomentosa, V. lobata ssp. lobata, and V. pinetorum ssp. pinetorum, certainly have their cultivation challenges. To date, I can keep most forms of Viola purpurea going for 1 to 3 years at the best. I have yet to grow on any second generation seedlings from my own stock. I have had no success with Viola tomentosa, V. lobata ssp. lobata, or V. pinetorum ssp. pinetorum. There are some very beautiful plants within these species and there is considerable variation within some of the species. With a well thought out plan and persistence I hope to eventually have success. I have to admit that I admire the work of Gerhard Domagk, and others, during the late 1920’s and 1930’s at Bayer. I strongly believe with similar dedication, organization, and persistence new forms of these western Viola species can be created that are much easier to cultivate and enjoy.
Some of our other dry-land Viola species have been much easier to cultivate. Viola sheltonii grows fairly easily if the proper cultural conditions are met. Viola bakeri and V. douglasii are even easier.
At some later date I will report on my progress with our local mesic Viola species, V. adunca ssp. adunca, V. glabella, and V. macloskyi.
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Robert, I followed (all) your contribution(s) with interest und I am looking forward to the following ones.
Thank you for sharing my special field.
Gerd
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Lots of interesting Violas here.
Your Viola verecunda looks a lot (on a superficial look) like V. odorata 'Alba' Veronique. I'm not a Viola grower, only when it happens, but they are certainly not easy to ID and many characters must be considered.
Viola odorata 'Alba'
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Named with specialized help Viola adunca var. bellidifolia
[attachimg=2]
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Gerd,
The Viola purpurea group, as well as V. tomentosa, V. lobata ssp. lobata, and V. pinetorum ssp. pinetorum, certainly have their cultivation challenges. To date, I can keep most forms of Viola purpurea going for 1 to 3 years at the best. I have yet to grow on any second generation seedlings from my own stock. I have had no success with Viola tomentosa, V. lobata ssp. lobata, or V. pinetorum ssp. pinetorum. There are some very beautiful plants within these species and there is considerable variation within some of the species. With a well thought out plan and persistence I hope to eventually have success. I have to admit that I admire the work of Gerhard Domagk, and others, during the late 1920’s and 1930’s at Bayer. I strongly believe with similar dedication, organization, and persistence new forms of these western Viola species can be created that are much easier to cultivate and enjoy.
Some of our other dry-land Viola species have been much easier to cultivate. Viola sheltonii grows fairly easily if the proper cultural conditions are met. Viola bakeri and V. douglasii are even easier.
At some later date I will report on my progress with our local mesic Viola species, V. adunca ssp. adunca, V. glabella, and V. macloskyi.
It is good to see the Western Violets in their habitat and your cultivation efforts Robert!
Happy to hear that douglasii and bakeri are not fussy because I have young seedlings. V. macloskeyi grows very well here in part-shaded/moist locations.
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Gabriela,
Your Viola adunca var. bellidifolia is a particular beauty - does it occur in your region?
Gerd
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V. adunca is a species of the Western parts of US and Canada Gerd, listed as endangered in various regions.
var. bellidifolia is a form of highest altitude, some recognize it and some not. It is particularly dwarf that's for sure.
I grew it from a seedex as something else (let's not even mention what); it was eaten by slugs in the past 2 years so I never got the chance to clearly see the flowers. It is not always easy to ID the Violas but there are always people willing to help.
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It is good to see the Western Violets in their habitat and your cultivation efforts Robert!
Happy to hear that douglasii and bakeri are not fussy because I have young seedlings. V. macloskeyi grows very well here in part-shaded/moist locations.
Gabriela
The plan is to keep posting photographs of our local California native Viola species on this thread this summer.
For the general information of the readers out there, Viola bakeri is a high elevation species. Freezing soil temperatures and abundant snow cover are normal in their preferred habitat. For a “dryland” species, soil moisture levels do not drop to extremely low levels in their preferred habitat.
Viola douglasii is a low elevation species. Freezing temperatures do not penetrate into the soil below 5-10 cm for the most part. High daytime summer temperatures in the 35-40 C range are a frequent occurrence. Soil moisture levels are extremely low during the summer and early autumn.
It is important to take these distinctions (and others) into consideration when attempting to grow these species.
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Thanks to Gabriela and Robert (again)!
@ Gabriela: I guess the distribution you mentioned is for var. bellidifolia while the species has a wider range in the US.
Some time ago a friend sent me seeds of adunca from the East.
Gerd
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Thanks to Gabriela and Robert (again)!
@ Gabriela: I guess the distribution you mentioned is for var. bellidifolia while the species has a wider range in the US.
Some time ago a friend sent me seeds of adunca from the East.
Gerd
That's what I know about V. adunca Gerd, but all is possible in this world, I guess.
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Gabriela
The plan is to keep posting photographs of our local California native Viola species on this thread this summer.
For the general information of the readers out there, Viola bakeri is a high elevation species. Freezing soil temperatures and abundant snow cover are normal in their preferred habitat. For a “dryland” species, soil moisture levels do not drop to extremely low levels in their preferred habitat.
Viola douglasii is a low elevation species. Freezing temperatures do not penetrate into the soil below 5-10 cm for the most part. High daytime summer temperatures in the 35-40 C range are a frequent occurrence. Soil moisture levels are extremely low during the summer and early autumn.
It is important to take these distinctions (and others) into consideration when attempting to grow these species.
Thank you Robert. I usually do my homework when trying species I'm not familiar with but is always good to hear from people who are spending a lot of time in their native habitat.
I know V. douglasii is/or was grown by others in ON; we can get very hot summers so it's probably a matter of finding a location with very good drainage or where rain doesn't hit directly.
They are still at seedlings stage but it will be interesting to see how far I'll be able to go with them.
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Two violets - the first does not survive outside here in my climate although it comes from higher altitudes in Chile
- the second one came from seed origniallv collected in the Eastern US - it is most probably a hybrid where V. sororia or related species are involved.
I love it for the interesting coloration of the leaves
Viola maculata var. chillanensis
Viola hybrid - Eastern US
Gerd
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[attachimg=1]
I'm afraid I don't grow too many Violas, but the larvae of these do very well on the Viola palustris in the bog nearby. This is a Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary - we have had eight of these beauties flying around the garden this year, the warm weather seems to suit them.
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Lovely Violas thanks folks.
The following isn't recent as I took the image late last year while on a solo trip to Central Patagonia and wondered if anyone is growing it successfully.
Viola escondidaensis found on sandy steppe.
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
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Viola capillaris -
another South American viola - much easier to cultivate than the beauty shown before
Gerd
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[attachimg=1]
In their preferred habitat, Viola purpurea ssp. integrifolia is now in full bloom. This species can be quite prolific. When many are blooming at the same time the sight is very impressive.
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Lovely Violas thanks folks.
The following isn't recent as I took the image late last year while on a solo trip to Central Patagonia and wondered if anyone is growing it successfully.
Viola escondidaensis found on sandy steppe.
Quite a sight! and those thick stems! I imagine it has roots 2 km long :)
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(Attachment Link)
In their preferred habitat, Viola purpurea ssp. integrifolia is now in full bloom. This species can be quite prolific. When many are blooming at the same time the sight is very impressive.
Another yellow beauty Robert; and a nice foliage too. It is amazing how many yellow flowering species are on the Western side.
Here's one from a week ago, time goes too fast now.
Viola rostrata growing at the base of a Maple tree in the woods.
[attachimg=1]
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Quite a sight! and those thick stems! I imagine it has roots 2 km long :)
:)
I had a little bit of a scratch around and yes the roots were impressive .
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[attachimg=1]
Viola bakeri blooming in the Lyons Creek Basin at the elevation of 6,700 feet (2,042 meters).
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Robert,
Thank you for this photograph. As this species is closely related to Viola nuttallii I want to ask whether Viola bakeri
also has a pronounced summer rest.
Gerd
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Gerd,
Viola bakeri is generally found growing in vernally moist meadows (generally above 5,500 feet, 1,676 meters in our area) or other locations that are moist, but not flooded or boggy in the spring. Later in the summer/autumn their habitat can appear dry based on the surface appearance, however the soil is generally still moist 10 to 15 cm below the surface. Unless there is severe drought, the plants remain green into the early autumn. Senescence generally commences with freezing weather in the autumn.
I have found this species reasonably easy to cultivate in small containers if protected from slugs, snails, and insect pests.
I guess the answer is no, they generally do not have a pronounced summer rest. :)
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Robert,
Thank you for this very detailed reply!
Gerd
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Gerd,
Viola bakeri is generally found growing in vernally moist meadows (generally above 5,500 feet, 1,676 meters in our area) or other locations that are moist, but not flooded or boggy in the spring. Later in the summer/autumn their habitat can appear dry based on the surface appearance, however the soil is generally still moist 10 to 15 cm below the surface. Unless there is severe drought, the plants remain green into the early autumn. Senescence generally commences with freezing weather in the autumn.
I have found this species reasonably easy to cultivate in small containers if protected from slugs, snails, and insect pests.
I guess the answer is no, they generally do not have a pronounced summer rest. :)
Thanks as well Robert. I have one more question about V. bakeri (and V. douglasii) please: is it normal that they start growing the true leaves very slow (comparing with other species)? What I mean is that the seedlings seem to remain at the cotyledon leaves for a long time. Thanks in advance :)
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Gabriela,
In my experience, Viola bakeri seedlings generally make rapid growth. I have never had them bloom the first spring from seed, however it seems possible, as forms of Viola purpurea will often bloom during their first spring (i.e. in just a few months after germinating). For me, Viola douglasii seedlings have been fairly slow growing. Sometimes it takes several seasons before I see flowers. I am gardening in the very warm and dry interior of California. Climatic conditions will certainly impact their growing behavior.
[attachimg=1]
This is a very fine form of Viola tomentosa, as seen today in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of California. The rosette to the right is Calyptridium monospermum. Viola tomentosa grows under extreme xeric conditions. At this site, the average daily solar radiation peaks at about 1075 Wm2 when there is little cloud cover (generally most days this time of year). During the summertime, daily high temperatures range from 85 to 92 F (29 to 33 C), at times more. The skin temperature (the surface of the ground) can be much higher. Generally there is little or no rainfall during the summertime, but this can vary depending on the strength and trajectory of the southwest monsoon.
This area has many habitat niches and many native Viola species. I will be sharing more photographs.
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@Gabriela: According the long duration of cotyledons I made the oberservation that Viola trinervata (which is grouped in the subsection chrysanthae as douglasii) developed its true leaves only in the second year after germination.
@Robert: A really spectacular photo of a special beauty!
Gerd
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Thanks Robert. Well, I discovered in the garden a young Viola bakeri, non-flowering, which I'm sure I've grown from SRGS seedex few years ago, and I'm also sure it was wild collected (I mostly ask wild collected seeds). Maybe you donated seeds? :)
V. tomentosa looks very happy in its environment of choice.
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@Gabriela: According the long duration of cotyledons I made the oberservation that Viola trinervata (which is grouped in the subsection chrysanthae as douglasii) developed its true leaves only in the second year after germination.
@Robert: A really spectacular photo of a special beauty!
Gerd
Thanks Gerd! Very interesting to hear; I didn't know some Viola species would have this growth pattern grown from seeds. Always something
new to learn! That's why I like to try and germinate species that I may never be able to grow here.
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@Gabriela: According the long duration of cotyledons I made the oberservation that Viola trinervata (which is grouped in the subsection chrysanthae as douglasii) developed its true leaves only in the second year after germination.
Gerd
While still fresh in my mind (and pictures folder) a picture with Viola bakeri (front) which is growing true leaves now and V. douglasii, which seems that as Gerd said, will develop true leaves only next year.
This will clarify the 'situation' for others trying these beauties from seeds.
[attachimg=1]
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Gabriela,
Your seedlings look especially strong growing and healthy. I would be glad if you tell me (us) the recipe
of your sowing mix (I spotted a certain amount of vermiculite).
Do you add some fertilizer after germination?
Gerd
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Gabriela,
Your seedlings look especially strong growing and healthy. I would be glad if you tell me (us) the recipe
of your sowing mix (I spotted a certain amount of vermiculite).
Do you add some fertilizer after germination?
Gerd
Thank you Gerd, only lately they started to look better. We had a crazy spring and I had to keep the cold frames closed more than usual.
Because I sow all sorts of species, not just Viola, it would be impossible to use special recipes for each group.
I use a sowing mix called Pro-mix to which I add extra vermiculite or perlite (it depends what I have at hand). And I don't have any ratio for adding them, I pour some over the Pro-mix and mixed them well until the texture pleases my eyes :)
I add vermiculite on top for most sowings but not to all, just because I have no near source of grit or fine gravel, which are much better.
So, everything germinates in the same mix. I think for germination it doesn't matter much what one uses, it is more important to have a proper potting mix later when pricking out the seedlings.
Very early in the spring I use a diluted fertilizer if I remember and have the time; later on there are too many other garden things requiring attention.
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Gabriela, Thank you for this quick reply.
Looking at your results I guess I'll increase the amount of vermiculite in my mix.
Gerd
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Gabriela, Thank you for this quick reply.
Looking at your results I guess I'll increase the amount of vermiculite in my mix.
Gerd
My pleasure to share Gerd; the forum here is one of the greatest source of info for growing plants from seeds, and not only.
For the 'quick' you have to thank Leena :) I had to answer a message.
I don't know how the sowing mix looks like in Germany, the problem is that here everyone is 'splurging' on peat: readily available and at low cost. All potting not just sowing mixes contain too much peat (for its low weight). It is a terrible waste.
Here's another cutie that just got pricked out - Viola orientalis (germination cold/warm, outdoors over the winter)
[attachimg=1]
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Gabriela,
Another example of well grown seedlings!
According sowing mix in Germany: commercially available products usually contain more or less only peat.
I use my own recipe which is a standard potting compost (70 % peat mixed with green compost) + sand, vermiculite and perlite.
Gerd
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Gabriela,
Another example of well grown seedlings!
According sowing mix in Germany: commercially available products usually contain more or less only peat.
I use my own recipe which is a standard potting compost (70 % peat mixed with green compost) + sand, vermiculite and perlite.
Gerd
Thank you Gerd.
Your mix sounds very good. I never understood why use so much peat in all mixes; it either stays too wet or it dries badly and is hard to rehydrate.
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This is Viola walteri - interesting leaf colour - seeds thankfully recieved from Véronique
Gerd
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they are beautiful Gerd!
I can't make them become so good, at home they always seem to be thirsty ...
but I have a problem of watering in general on the whole garden, and even more in the pots. I have a 12 m high birch (Betula pendula) dying of thirst ... a cherry tree and an elm also in bad shape.
that also explains my silence at the moment on the forum ..
on the one hand I no longer have a camera at the moment, but also I am rather demoralized with all my lost or ugly plants because they lack water.
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Véronique,
I guess this viola will be more tolerant against drought when it stayed longer in the open garden.
So special care will be needed only in a younger state.
I found this in Wikipedia:
Viola walteri is found in rich calcareous forests and woodlands, often in dry rocky areas.
Gerd
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Dear Véronique, I sympathise with your drought problems - I hope you can soon get some good rain to help. Thankfully, even in dark days, there can usually be found some little gem that survives and brings pleasure - and hope - I wish that for you also :-*
M
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I don't grow a huge number of Violas but have a few in the rock gardens, planted surely too near one another years back, so I've since been trying to re-isolate a few, and moving hybrids off to marginal areas where they can do their lovely thing.... a few natives around also, and a couple have happily moved into garden areas on their own..
1- Viola adunca, locally common native, it has moved into a number of beds, looks good in rock gardens where it stays fairly tight, if in mostly sun, and flowers quite generously, though for a short time
2-Viola elegantula, Balkan species which got caught up in my hybrid mess, I think, not positive whether this one crossed with lutea, aetolica and tricolor subalpina-- which surely crossed with one another-- this one looks quite accurate for the species.
3- Viola lutea the proper species has good sized bright yellow flowers, and fairly erect dark green foliage; this is at least close, maybe not quite...
4- unconnected with the above, this is progeny of some garden centre hybrid violas grown as basket plants, years back; with mowing delayed this year, a few have appeared in 'lawn' areas
5- hybrid, probably lutea x aetolica
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This is Viola walteri - interesting leaf colour - seeds thankfully recieved from Véronique
Gerd
Beautiful Gerd, maybe a cultivar though, the species had regular green leaves. But of course, much prettier with colorful foliage :)
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I don't grow a huge number of Violas but have a few in the rock gardens, planted surely too near one another years back, so I've since been trying to re-isolate a few, and moving hybrids off to marginal areas where they can do their lovely thing.... a few natives around also, and a couple have happily moved into garden areas on their own..
Pretty Violas Cohan; as you say, it is easy to have them mixed or hybridizing around. For some NA species the situation it is a bit unclear anyway with few hybridizing in the wild as well.
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Beautiful Gerd, maybe a cultivar though, the species had regular green leaves. But of course, much prettier with colorful foliage :)
Thank you -Gabriela. I got seeds of the plants shown from Véronique. If I remember correctly she told me that it was a cultivar (perhaps Silver Gem).
Gerd
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Pretty Violas Cohan; as you say, it is easy to have them mixed or hybridizing around. For some NA species the situation it is a bit unclear anyway with few hybridizing in the wild as well.
Thanks... the hybrid ones are all European; my local ones don't seem to cross, perhaps not so closely related-- I have V canadensis, adunca, renifolia and nephrophylla that I know of for sure.. adunca and renifolia have found their own way into the garden, and I have a very modest nephrophylla (probably not wet enough where I have it...) haven't moved any canadensis in yet.. I've tried seed of a couple of the native (Ontario) yellow species, but no luck..
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these Viola walteri are apparently variants with silver leaves. I read that both exist in nature, green and silver.
they therefore inherited a cultivar name 'Silver Gem'