Seedy Subjects! > Grow From Seed
Lilium species
rob krejzl:
--- Quote ---Yes, I've killed more lilies than anyone, so that makes me a GURU !
--- End quote ---
It wouldn't be interesting if it was too easy.
Gene Mirro:
Here is another good link: http://lilyseed.com/growing_species.html
The main germination types are:
1. immediate epigeal: sow at 20C and wait a few weeks. Easy. lankongense, davidi, trumpets, asiatics.
2. delayed hypogeal: sow at 20-25C, allow 3-4 months to form a tiny bulb, then 4 months at 5C to break leaf dormancy. Usually take 3 or more years to reach bloom size. canadense, superbum, martagon.
There are other types, but I can't cover everything in this post. In general, if you sow the seed and keep it at 20C for 3-4 months, then at 5C for a few months, nearly every species of lily will germinate. Some seeds will require two warm-cold cycles. Do not place the pots in direct sun, and do not allow them to dry out. Most books on lilies have extensive lists of species and germination types. I have not read McRae's book, but Rob is correct in saying that it's easy until you start trying to push the process.
I don't use the baggies or the vermiculite. I just plant the seeds in 4 inch square nursery pots, because I don't have the time or inclination to handle germinating seeds individually. It's a matter of personal preference.
If you understand and follow the directions in my PNWLS presentation, you should be able to grow most of the species. The bulbs MUST be kept cool at all times, or they will become vulnerable to Fusarium basal rot. This is why I now grow many lilies on an inverted-season schedule, under lights in the basement in Winter. This also works wonderfully for many alpines. If you are in a hot climate, arrange for shade in the afternoon. Do not grow lilies in bare ground exposed to the sun. Shade with companion plants or bark mulch. Again, the modern hybrids are much easier to grow than the species. The negative is that you can't grow the hybrids from seed. And purchased bulbs are often full of virus disease. That is why I don't plant bulbs in my garden. I grow only from seed.
The excerpt on my website from "Studies in Gardening" will give you an idea of how finicky some of the species are. It was written in 1916, and they haven't gotten any easier to grow since then. It was written for gardeners in the British Isles by a gentleman named A. Clutton-Brock.
Guff:
I have grown Oriental and Asiatic lily from seed. I soak the seeds over night, and then spread them out, onto the surface of the soil mix. I don't put any top grit or soil. Then I place them on a heating mat, and in about 2-4 weeks they start to germinate. I suppose a heating mat isn't required, just a warm spot.
Heres a link, very detailed. I wouldn't worry about pricking them out. I prick them out at first, but so many germinated it was alot of work. Plus I noticed that being so close didn't matter, they grow fine being close. When they get bigger in 1-2 years then you can separate the seedling bulbs.
http://www.mikesbackyardgarden.org/lilyprop2.html
Katherine J:
Hello, dear Lily-masters!
Thank you for the interesting lessons :)
I have sown Lilium martagon this autumn (end of September). The seeds were dated 2005!!! I put them on the surface of the compost, covered with grit, and left it out. There has been frost for about a month here. Have I any chance, or can throw them away?
rob krejzl:
--- Quote --- Have I any chance
--- End quote ---
Yes. Even if they don't germinate this year it's worth keeping the pot for several more years before throwing it away, but the chances are that a good portion will already have started germinating. If you need reassurance just carefully pull back the grit and you should be able to see small rooted bulbs just waiting for spring.
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