Scottish Rock Garden Club Forum

Memorable Topics – Threads and posts that are just too good to lose => Plant Information and Portraits => Topic started by: ashley on August 15, 2010, 12:09:43 PM

Title: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on August 15, 2010, 12:09:43 PM
Between this summer and last, I had the chance to realise a long-held ambition and spend several weeks hiking in the Sarek area (http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&t=h&msa=0&msid=116889839247907533763.00048db944cb90ed3d149&ll=67.445443,17.677002&spn=1.76801,9.157104&z=8) of northern Sweden (zoom in on marker).  Sarek National Park (http://www.naturvardsverket.se/In-English/Menu/Enjoying-nature/National-parks-and-other-places-worth-visiting/National-Parks-in-Sweden/Sarek-National-Park) comprises an arctic-alpine complex of mountains and heavily glaciated valleys at the heart of a bigger cluster of parks and protected areas that stretches across into the adjacent part of Norway.  It draws me because this area covering almost 10,000 km2 is probably the largest remaining wilderness in Western Europe.  The great cultural importance of this country for the indigenous Sami (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sami_people) people and what remains of their nomadic way of life around the annual reindeer migrations also contributed to designation of the Swedish part (‘Laponia’ (http://www.laponia.nu/eng/)) as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
 
Sarek NP itself has an area of 197,000 ha and is about 50 km both north- to-south and east-to-west.  It is unique in Sweden and perhaps Western Europe in having been left almost completely undeveloped, as a matter of deliberate policy.  There are no roads, airstrips, supplies, mountain huts or marked trails, and just a very few footbridges at strategic points on the biggest rivers, so going there entails a bit of an expedition!  Even reaching Sarek takes 1-2 days walking from the nearest points of access.  Because of the mountainous conditions and proximity to the sea, precipitation is high and the weather changeable.  Temperatures range from about 15 oC in summer to -40 oC or so in winter.  Being above the Arctic Circle Sarek gets several weeks of continuous daylight in summer and conversely a period of unbroken darkness in winter.

For climatic and other reasons the Scandinavian mountains are the most biodiverse part of the circumpolar region, as the great botanist Joseph Hooker described before The Linnean Society in 1860 (see here (http://www.jdhooker.org.uk/ODAP_part1.htm)).  Due to its more extreme and less varied environmental conditions, Sarek is botanically poorer than neighbouring areas such as Padjelanta National Park immediately to the west.  Nevertheless I hope forumists are interested to share some general impressions and pictures from a less frequented alpine region.   

To give some general context I’ll start by showing the main types of environment in Sarek, from the peaks downhill through stone and snow fields to glaciers, valleys and rivers.  Not least for pressing :P weight considerations pictures were taken with a compact camera (Sony DSC-W300 this year; Olympus u-miniS,StylusVS last year, the latter marked *).  In both years I was there during late July & early August but this season was about 2 weeks later so flowering was delayed accordingly.  Fortunately water levels in the glacial streams were also lower than in 2009, making quadruped crossings with hiking poles less hairy.  Nevertheless there were instances when, knee- or even thigh-deep in fast-flowing, opaque (with ground-up stone carried from the glaciers) and COLD water, the threatening growl of invisible rolling rocks was rather disconcerting!

1   Mountain peaks and ridges, here the view south from Sarektjåkkå with an unusually luxurious carpet of Cladonia, reindeer moss, in the forground.  That this lichen was ungrazed suggests that reindeer can’t reach it.  Otherwise it’s common to see individuals, small groups or evidence (dropped antlers, dung) even high up in what look like very inhospitable and unlikely places.  Clearly they are tough animals with a remarkable ability to move safely over unstable boulder slopes.

2   Sarek ridge, Sarektjåkkå, with peaks little over 2,000 m but at higher latitude (67o 40’) conditions are harsh.  Plants other than lichens and mosses are very scarce.

3   Glaciers, of which there are 100 or so in Sarek, have dramatically shaped the landscape and growing conditions.  In fact Sarek is a dramatic open-air textbook of geomorphology.  Here a view across Gaskka Sarekjiegna glacier from the Nordtoppen ridge.

4   The high country is dominated by extensive stonefields.  The geology is very diverse and depending on their chemistry the rocks are colonised to varying degrees with crustose or foliose lichens, and with mosses in moist areas between.  The highest-growing flowering plants tend to be Ranunculus glacialis, a few small grasses (Poaceae, mainly Festuca spp.) and saxifrages in more sheltered crannies.  Here the view SE from near Alep Ruohtesjiegna glacier in the Ruohtes mountains.

5   As well as challenging hikers, outflows from the glaciers carry rock dust that enrich downstream plant communities.  Glaciers in Sarek are retreating, and among the rocks and boulders of exposed morraines you find quite a wider variety of plant species.  Some species are clearly distributed according to moisture and drainage conditions.  Others are more influenced by the increased humus content of soils that have been exposed for longer.  Here the outflow from Mihkájiegna glacier to the SW of the Sarek ridge.   

6   Further down, streams and rivers drain the U-shaped valleys, often flanked by bogs and mires but also interspersed with grasslands and well-drained moraine ridges.  Such diverse conditions support a diverse flora that increases as altitude decreases, although we are still above the treeline.  Here the Guhkesvákkjåhkå river draining the north side of the Sarek range.

7   Trees do occur in these higher valleys but are strictly ground-hugging (Betula nana, Juniperus communis, Salix spp.).  The tapestry of conditions means that any hiker with an interest in plants is obliged to make frequent stops, sometimes crouching or kneeling under a heavy rucksack while trying to take a half-decent picture :P  Amusing to any onlookers who don’t share this compulsion ;D  Here the valley of the Bierikjåhkå river, looking south (upstream) toward Bierik lake on the right.

8   As the gradient decreases the rivers meander between beautiful meadows, fragrant in still warm air, and dotted with flowers.   These areas are also popular with nesting birds, including gulls and skuas that take raucous exception to incursions by hikers.  Here the Guopervágge river valley, an idyllic place in the northern summer. 

9   Braided streams are common in low-gradient gravel beds below glaciers, but even in the valleys proper the river course is complex and shifting.  This makes for an interesting range of plants and growing conditions.  Here the upper reaches of the Ráhpajåhkå river that eventually flows down to a large and densely-vegetated delta.  The valley is also home to wolves, wolverines, lynx and European brown bear as well as unusually large elk (Alces alces).

10   Lakes are common, large and small, and home to arctic char as well as mosquito larvae :-X  Growing conditions on the margins vary from rock to grassland and bog but of course the plant communities are also influenced by altitude.  Here looking W across Várdojavrre lake at the edge of Sarek NP toward the Áhkká range, the ‘Queen of Lapland’ (‘old woman’ in the Sapmi language).
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Paddy Tobin on August 15, 2010, 01:15:53 PM
Ashley,

What an extraordinary place. Stunningly interesting environment. Many thanks for posting.

Perhaps, Hestor might approach you to talk to the group in Cork?

Paddy
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on August 15, 2010, 05:34:16 PM
Thanks Paddy, although I suppose this has little relevance to gardening ;)


Because most plant species are widely distributed throughout Sarek according to their environmental tolerance, I’ll show the main ones alphabetically by family rather than the order in which I found them. 
Some IDs I'm unsure of (most marked ?) so would welcome comments & corrections. 
Pix marked * are from 2009.

Apiaceae
11   Angelica archangelica ssp. archangelica grows on lower slopes, particularly in moist areas, and in willow thickets at or above the treeline proper.  In some places I found that plants were heavily grazed, presumably by elk (moose).  Traditionally Sami ate the peeled stems and flower buds, while flutes were sometimes made from mature stems.   There’s a nice article here (http://www.skogoglandskap.no/filearchive/angelica_fossaa.pdf) about this plant in Scandinavian history, lore and custom.

Asteraceae
12   Erigeron uniflorus ssp. uniflorus frequents more open, well-drained and nutrient-rich areas such as moraines away from competition by taller plants.  General hairiness may help it tolerate harsh environmental conditions but perhaps put off grazers too.
13   Gnapalium norvegicum is a striking plant that also prefers well-drained conditions but can compete in grassland.
14*   Cicerbita  (Lactuca) alpina   I did not find this in Sarek itself but growing on a steep north-facing slope on Lulep Gierkav mountain in the adjacent Stora Sjöfallets NP.  Last year forumist Stephenb showed us this plant in southern Norway, here (http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=3959.msg104655#msg104655), and said that Sami had traditionally used it as a vegetable.
15*   Hieracium section Alpina may be a botanist’s nightmare but is a beautiful plant that favours well-drained open moraine slopes.  Like Erigeron its hairiness may improve hardiness and perhaps deter grazers.  A 2009 picture is used because this year it was only in bud during my time in Sarek.
16*   Saussurea alpina favours well-drained mixed grassland on lower slopes and in valleys.  Other members of the genus were/are used in traditional Tibetan and Chinese medicines but not in Scandinavia as far as I know. 
17*   Solidago virgaurea is another plant of well-drained grassy areas or low-growing vegetation.  This plant has long been used in Europe too, for diuretic and anti-inflammatory purposes.
18   Taraxacum section Crocea ?   I’m hopeless on dandelions but even to my eye this one is clearly more orange than the familiar T. officinale.  Here growing quite high up on a sparsely-vegetated slope, but nowhere very abundant.

Boraginaceae
19   Myosotis decumbens is most attractive and fairly common.  It tends to grow in moist areas, either among rocks or in the understory of willow thickets.

20   Willow thickets provide shelter and conducive conditions for many flowering plants in Sarek, so are interesting (if tiring) places to explore.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Martinr on August 15, 2010, 06:03:50 PM
Magic, I hope there's more to come
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Paddy Tobin on August 15, 2010, 07:24:28 PM
So, this is not the same angelica presently in bloom on our road verges?

Paddy
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Tony Willis on August 15, 2010, 07:59:19 PM
Ashley what a terrific post,it looks wonderful and very interesting.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: David Nicholson on August 15, 2010, 08:02:59 PM
Wonderful stuff Ashley, hope there is more.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Luc Gilgemyn on August 15, 2010, 08:40:00 PM
Ashley,
I had no idea....  :o :o :o

What a superb area and what an interesting explanation !
I really had no idea such an area existed in Sweden...
Thanks a lot for the hard work put into this post... and somethbing tells me there's more to come...  ;D 8)
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Armin on August 15, 2010, 09:16:25 PM
Ashley,
very interesting - please post more... :D
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Gunilla on August 15, 2010, 09:28:10 PM
Ashley, I will follow this thread with great interest.  Beautiful photos from Sarek.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Ragged Robin on August 16, 2010, 08:30:45 AM
Ashley, thank you so much for sharing your amazing adventure into this stunning wilderness.  Through your words you paint a picture that is palpable to the point of feeling the icy cold water you forded and the hazard the growling of the rocks hidden below surrounded by such drama in the scenery.  One gets the impression that this is the beginning of the alpine plant world showing adaptability and incredibly tenacity in this harsh environment.  Looking forward to the next step in your expedition.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Stephenb on August 16, 2010, 08:34:46 AM
Excellent, Ashley! Puts me to shame though for never having done this myself (I've had friends passing through on the way though)

So, this is not the same angelica presently in bloom on our road verges?
Paddy

No, your one is Angelica sylvestris (http://www.habitas.org.uk/flora/species.asp?item=3703 (http://www.habitas.org.uk/flora/species.asp?item=3703)). Angelica archangelica is a much more robust plant.

The article which Ashley linked to is well worth a read. The form of Angelica called Vossakvann (meaning Angelica from the mountain town of Voss in SW Norway) is making a renaissance here and is hardly known outside of Norway. It is separated by the fact that the petioles feel hard as they are not or almost not hollow (picture on this page -http://www.skogoglandskap.no/Artsbeskrivelser/vossakvann (http://www.skogoglandskap.no/Artsbeskrivelser/vossakvann); use Google translate, usually quite good for Norwegian). When growing it, one has to select for this character (Angelica dies upon flowering). I'll hopefully offer seed next autumn (my plants didn't flower this year).
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on August 16, 2010, 09:31:54 PM
Thank you all for your kind comments and encouragement.

However did you guess Luc ;) ;D


Brassicaceae
21   Arabis alpina which MartinR showed us in the Dolomites last year is common in Sarek too, growing singly or occasionally in small colonies.  Here it generally occurs in damp areas between rocks, suggesting that it appreciates the gentler microclimate of crevices which tolerating the trade-off of lower light levels.  Species like A. alpina that can disperse themselves widely are probably better placed to track their ecological niche during global warming.
22   Cardamine bellidifolia ssp. bellidifolia is another plant that is widely distributed but rarely abundant.  However it is also one of the first flowering plants to colonise deglaciated areas.
23   Cardamine pratensis ssp. polemonioides is less common in Sarek, at least the northern half.  I came across it only a few times, either in wet, grassy areas or willow thickets.  It’s probably more frequent in surrounding areas at lower altitude.

Campanulaceae
24*   Campanula rotundifolia is common in dry grassy areas or slopes, very showy in both blue and white forms.  I understand that alpine populations in western Scandinavia with single, larger flowers are sometimes assigned to ssp. groenlandicus but the taxonomy seems murky.  As the first flowers were only beginning to open in late July this year the picture is from 2009, taken on the south-facing side of the gorge at Skarja.
25    Campanula uniflora or Arctic bellflower is smaller and less widespread than C. rotundifolia but also prefers relatively dry conditions.  Nowhere did I find more than a few isolated plants, as here growing through a carpet of crowberry Empetrum nigrum, but this sparsity may not be a problem because it is self-compatible.  In his fine series from Yukon a couple of years ago Philip MacDougall showed us C. uniflora as a single scape, so I think Sweden wins here ;D

Caryophyllaceae
26   Cerastium alpinum or alpinum-arcticum complex ? is widespread in moist areas and at higher levels where competing vegetation is sparse or low-growing.  This species can also exploit serpentine soils high in nickel and magnesium, and seed passage through the gut of Arctic foxes in Greenland was found to increase germination so these animals might disperse the plant widely. 
27   Lychnis alpina is common on well-drained moraine slopes, often at higher altitude, and another species showing metal tolerance.  Stature of the plants varies considerably, from 15 cm or more in sheltered sites to as little as 5 cm on exposed high ground, as shown here.  This tight form would presumably be hard to reproduce in cultivation. 
28-30   Silene acaulis is common on open, well-drained moraines.  Populations in Sarek show wide variation in flower size and colour intensity.  This year in late July almost all plants were either in full flower with no seed capsules apparent (28, 29) or had spent seed capsules from last year but no flowers (30).  This suggests that individual plants don’t necessarily flower every year.  On the other hand, producing at least a few flowers each season might seem a better reproductive strategy.  Curious :-\
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Panu on August 16, 2010, 10:08:10 PM
Very nice! Never been to Sarek, but a friend of mine told me it´s a marvelous place. And he lives in Finnish Lapland ;)
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on August 17, 2010, 05:35:20 PM
 :-[  Unfortunately Pic 30 above flatly contradicts my claim that Silene acaulis plants either had flowers or old seed capsules but rarely both.  However the picture posted is one of those exceptions, so I stand by my observation even if I don’t have a decent picture to back it up ;D

It’s also been suggested S. acaulis acts as a ‘nurse plant’ at higher altitude, helping other plant species establish within its cushions under harsh conditions.


Caryophyllaceae (continued)   
31   Silene dioica is widespread but not very abundant in valleys, usually in the understorey of willow thickets or among colonies of the fern Athyrium distentifolium, as here.
32   Stellaria nemorum ssp. nemorum is another plant of willow thickets, though less common in Sarek and restricted to damp areas.

Crassulaceae
33   Rhodiola rosea is very common on lower slopes and in the valleys, including wet areas.  Pharmacologically it’s an interesting plant because it contains rosiridin and related compounds that inhibit the enzyme monoamine oxidase and so increase levels of amine neurotransmitters serotonin and dopamine in the brain.  This property contributed to traditional use of, and current interest in, Rhodiola as an anti-depressant and mood enhancer.  Other effects are also claimed.

Cyperaceae
34   Carex bigelowii is another of those common circumpolar plants with intricate taxonomy.  Together with several Festuca, Juncus and Luzula species (see below) it colonises stone fields at higher levels and recently deglaciated moraines.  Here overlooking the Tjågnårisjiegna glacier.
35   Eriophorum scheuchzeri is a handsome sedge confined to wetter areas, particularly beside streams and standing water including those in high valleys.

Diapensiaceae
36   Diapensia lapponica ssp. lapponica is a common plant on open, dry moraines and slopes.   Plant size and age may not be closely related because some smaller cushions lie loose on the ground on long stems, suggesting that they may be old.  It flowers early in the season so I could find only a single flower.

Equisetaceae
37   Equisetum scirpoides is the only member of its family that grows high above the treeline in Sarek, usually in open wet areas where it is widespread and common.

Ericaceae
38*   Arctostaphylos alpina or bearberry prefers dry moraine where it is common in valleys and on lower slopes.  Berries this year were still immature so the picture is from 2009.  This plant colours deep red in autumn, about mid-September here.
39,40   Andromeda polifolia var. polifolia or bog rosemary is a striking plant when in flower.  In Sarek it is locally common in valleys, where colonies grow in bogs and mossy hummocks.  This year in late July most plants were only in bud.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Ragged Robin on August 17, 2010, 06:50:43 PM
Great photos of plants thriving together in this environment and the colours seem so clear but natural - lovely studies Ashley.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ranunculus on August 19, 2010, 07:43:15 AM
A superb introduction to a fascinating area, Ashley ... does Ranunculus glacialis grow in this region?
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on August 19, 2010, 09:20:52 AM
Panu Finnish Lapland was my first glimpse of the north many years ago, up along the Muonio valley to Kilpisjärvi, and I’ve been smitten since.

Thanks Robin :)  Some plants I found hard to do justice to though.

Indeed R. glacialis & others too Cliff.  More anon ;)   


Ericaceae (continued)
41   Cassiope hypnoides grows quite widely on open slopes in the mid-Alpine band, particularly in areas with late snow cover.  Being resinous, Cassiope was one of several plants Arctic peoples apparently used as a fuel above the treeline.
42, 43   Loiseleuria procumbens is common on dry moraines but sometimes also occurs in wetter areas if competing vegetation is sparse.  This year for the first time I came across a fine white form (43), very clean in colour.  Is this in cultivation already? 
44   Phyllodoce caerulea also grows on drier, open heathland.  In several places it was interesting to see large bumblebees visit it even under cold conditions.
45,46   Pyrola media
47,48   Vaccinium microcarpum grows in small colonies on wet sphagnum bogs north of the Áhkká range.  However I did not notice it in similar habitats in Sarek so local distribution may be limited.  It is distinguished from Vaccinium oxycoccos by its glabrous scape, generally single flowers and smaller size (hence its English name small cranberry).  Although mosquitos tested my appreciation, it’s an elegant little plant.
49,50*   Vaccinium uliginosum ssp. microphyllum  berries are far more palatable uncooked than crowberry Empetrum nigrum (50*, top right), another of the Ericaceae very common in northern Sweden.  Unfortunately bog bilberries were not yet ripe this July to provide welcome fresh food.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on August 19, 2010, 09:51:33 AM
Ericaceae (continued)
51   Vaccinium vitis-idea or lingonberry is widespread and common on drier heaths.  The red berries are valued throughout the northern countries for making a delicious tart compote to accompany meat or cheese.

Fabaceae
52   Astragalus alpinus is widespread in valleys and on lower slopes, particularly well-drained areas.  Plants in higher or otherwise exposed sites were noticeably smaller, usually with just a single scape hugging the ground.  However under gentler conditions plants can be very showy.

Gentianaceae
53-55   Gentiana nivalis is widespread too but rarely abundant, mostly as scattered single plants in damp grassland or beside water.  It is one of several northern species that may disperse seeds in flowing water. The extraordinary colour intensity of the flowers easily compensates for their small size (5mm or less).  They literally sparkle in the sunlight but then close in cloudy weather and become harder to spot.

Geraniaceae
56-58   Geranium sylvaticum is widespread in willow thickets, where its soft growth is protected from wind.  The white form (58) predominates in birch woods north-west of Áhkká but I didn’t see it in Sarek.

Juncaceae
59   Juncus trifidus is a neat little rush of damp stony slopes at higher levels, with a rather similar distribution to the sedge Carex bigelowii (34).  
60   Luzula wahlenbergii ? but maybe hard to identify from this picture.  Also grows in damp stone slopes at higher altitude with C. bigelowii and J. trifidus.  
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ranunculus on August 19, 2010, 09:52:59 AM
Oh, my giddy aunt ... a white loiseleuria!   :P :P :P :P :P :P :P
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Maggi Young on August 19, 2010, 02:58:26 PM
Oh, my giddy aunt ... a white loiseleuria!   :P :P :P :P :P :P :P

 There are several records of white form in Scotland ..... often thought mistakenly  by the finders to be Diapensia lapponica.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ranunculus on August 19, 2010, 03:13:11 PM
... But are they in cultivation, Maggi ... pretty please?   :D :P :P :P :P :P
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Maggi Young on August 19, 2010, 03:26:50 PM
Not that I know of, Cliff........ :'(
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Paddy Tobin on August 19, 2010, 03:57:33 PM
Really enjoying this, Ashley. Great shots. Paddy
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on August 19, 2010, 05:46:51 PM
Thanks Paddy.  At the risk of boring people by being long-winded :P I'll carry on while a few dogged souls remain ;)


For anyone interested there’s a nice review of plant adaptation to conditions in northern and alpine Fennoscandia, here (http://pubs.aina.ucalgary.ca/arctic/Arctic44-2-95.pdf). 

Lentibulariaceae
61   Pinguicula alpina doesn’t grow as widely as P. vulgaris in Sarek but in a few places I found substantial colonies, and sometimes both species together as well as intermediate forms x hybrida.

Lycopodiaceae
62   Lycopodium alpinum usually favours dry open heath where it is common. I saw LL. annotinum, clavatum and selago less often.   Lycopodium spp were traditionally used in many folk medicine systems for anti-inflammatory effect.  Several also contain the alkaloid huperzine A which is an acetylcholiesterase inhibitor claimed to protect or improve mental function including memory, and is now in clinical trials for treatment of Alzheimer’s Disease.

Myrsinaceae
63,64   Trientalis europaea, despite its beautiful Swedish name skogsstjärna or forest star, grows above the treeline in Sarek mainly in open grassy areas of valleys and lower slopes.

Onagracea
65   Epilobium anagallidifolium is mostly restricted to wet seep areas or beside streams where it is sometimes abundant.

Poaceae
66, 67   Deschampsia alpina ? (D. cespitosa complex), a pseudoviviparous grass growing at higher altitude in rock fields.
68   Festuca vivipara is another species that reproduces asexually.  Pseudovivipary (production of asexual propagules) is relatively common in subarctic and arctic plants, mainly but not only grasses; a strategy that may improve reproductive success in short or unfavourable growing seasons.   Here shown with Bistorta vivipara (left & middle) and Oxyria digyna (middle).

Polygonaceae
69   Bistorta vivipara, is common in damp grassy areas of valleys and slopes.  Flower spikes, usually white or sometimes pink-tinged, produce few seeds but instead starchy bulbils (68).  These can begin to sprout leaves before falling from the parent plant, and are harvested by ptarmigan, reindeer and sometimes people. 
70   Oxyria digyna occurs in damp and enriched areas up to mid-altitudes in Sarek, usually where competition from other plants is less intense.  Plants are sometimes tinged deep red and very attractive.  Like other sorrels it’s rich in vitamin C and was used by northern peoples to avoid scurvy.  In Canada Inuit people report this plant as emerging earlier and growing larger in recent years as the northern growing season gets longer.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ranunculus on August 19, 2010, 05:51:17 PM
We're still with you, Ashley ... and enjoying every second.  :D
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Maggi Young on August 19, 2010, 05:52:30 PM
Ashley, this is a terrific thread...... the scenery is wonderful and your reporting of the plants is excellent.... witness the number of readers so far!

I'm going to move the thread to the "too good to miss section" .... don't worry, I'll post a  note to point folks in the right direction to find it there!
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on August 19, 2010, 06:10:20 PM
Thanks very much Maggi.


Ranunculaceae (I can't keep you waiting any longer Cliff)

71*-73   Aconitum lycoctonum ssp.septentrionale is restricted to valleys, not very widespread but sometimes locally common.  Above the treeline proper it is usually found in the comparative shelter of rocks, willow thickets or stands of the fern Athyrium distentifolium.  If anyone grows this form and ever has spare seed I’d love to try a little.
74-76   Ranunculus glacialis is undoubtedly the alpine queen of Sarek, almost the only flowering plant in high stone fields and snow bed areas as well as higher slopes.  Under good conditions plants carry up to three flowers per scape, but a single flower per scape or indeed per plant tends to be the norm here.  Petals tinge burgundy red from the edges as they age or perhaps after pollination? (76).
77   Ranunculus nivalis is much more restricted in distribution, favouring damp sites at mid-altitude where snow lies later, but a little beauty. 
78   Ranunculus pygmaeus is common along stream edges and seeps, including higher areas.
79,80   Trollius europaeus is a plant of the valleys and low slopes, widely but often fairly sparsely distributed in damp grassy areas.  However on the eastern slopes of Áhkká there are several spectacular concentrations (79), mixed with but outnumbering Ranunculus acris :o
 
Thalictrum alpinum also grows widely in Sarek, especially in open grassy areas or near streams, as does R. acris at lower altitude.  RR. hyperboreus and lapponicus are generally restricted to damp areas around streams, the former being much more common.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ranunculus on August 19, 2010, 07:13:54 PM
Super ... many thanks, Ashley.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Luc Gilgemyn on August 19, 2010, 07:19:25 PM
Great job Ashley !  :o
Terrific thread, well worth to be found amongst the threads not to be missed !!  :D :D
Don't let this stop you though...  ;D
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Ragged Robin on August 20, 2010, 11:36:25 AM
Ashley, I'm so enjoying your view of this wild wilderness and, through your photos and writings, reading and absorbing a lot about the plants, their habitat, characteristics and properties. It's great that this thread will be saved as a resource to return to and enjoy.  Your style is very user-friendly  :D

I have to say that the Aconitum lycoctonum ssp.septentrionale is quite stunning in its dusky beauty and your studies of Ranunculus growing in Sarek are wonderful.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Paddy Tobin on August 20, 2010, 12:19:35 PM
Well, there's Cliff Booker happy - he has had his fix of ranunculus!

Great stuff, Ashley.

Paddy
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Stephenb on August 20, 2010, 09:01:46 PM
71*-73   Aconitum lycoctonum ssp.septentrionale is restricted to valleys, not very widespread but sometimes locally common.  Above the treeline proper it is usually found in the comparative shelter of rocks, willow thickets or stands of the fern Athyrium distentifolium.  If anyone grows this form and ever has spare seed I’d love to try a little.

Not sure which form you are referring to, but ssp septentrionale is the common form around here with violet flowers. It's more common at higher elevations, but I have found it a few places lower down. I can keep a look out for seed when I'm out mushrooming later on in the season ;)
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Graham Catlow on August 20, 2010, 09:09:19 PM
Thanks very much Maggi.




71*-73   Aconitum lycoctonum ssp.septentrionale is restricted to valleys, not very widespread but sometimes locally common.  Above the treeline proper it is usually found in the comparative shelter of rocks, willow thickets or stands of the fern Athyrium distentifolium.  If anyone grows this form and ever has spare seed I’d love to try a little.

If anyone grows this form and ever has spare seed I’d love to try a little.[/
Wouldn't we all :D
Its really unusual.

Graham



Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on August 25, 2010, 10:59:11 PM
Again, thanks everyone for your interest and comments.  
Robin the dusky colour of Aconitum lycoctonum ssp.septentrionale is unusual and rather attractive isn't it? 8)
so yes please Stephen, if you can collect some seed I'd appreciate it :)

Now continuing ...

Rosaceae
81   Potentilla crantzii is not very abundant in Sarek but grows here and there in valleys or on old moraines, usually in rock crevices or among short grass in well-drained open sites.
82*   Potentilla palustris as the name implies is restricted to wet areas, and at lower altitude.  Although I found it only outside Sarek proper, on the west side of the Áhkká range, it should also grow below the treeline within the Park in valleys such as Rapadalen.   A poor picture unfortunately, from 2009.

Rubus arcticus is another member of the Rosaceae found mainly below the treeline.  I saw it flowering in Sarek near Rinim, in moist shade of woodland dominated by Betula pubescens.  Its berries are said to be delicious although I have yet to try them.

83   Rubus chamaeomorus or cloudberry is locally common in open boggy areas, again mainly in valleys.  The large white flowers are followed by red berries that gradually fade to an apricot colour as they ripen.  These too are considered a delicacy throughout the northern countries.
84   Sibbaldia procumbens grows higher up, preferring damp areas such as those taking runoff from snowfields.  Specialised snowbed plants like this are probably most vulnerable to, and act as indicators of, global warming that allows more vigorous vegetation to encroach on their habitat.

Salicaceae   
85   Salix herbacea is a creeping willow also typical of damp places at higher altitude, such as below snowfields or on recently exposed moraine where it avoids competition from taller vegetation.  Various willow extracts, containing the aspirin precursor salicylic acid, have long been used for treatment of pain and inflammation.
86   Salix myrsinites (identified by Panu)  This rather handsome plant is up to 30 cm tall so perhaps too big for S. polaris.  In Sarek it is widespread in valleys though not especially abundant.  
87-89   Salix lanata (confirmed by Panu) ? Again, ID uncertain.  Woolly-type willows of various size and leaf shape are common in the valleys and on lower slopes.  Some of these may be hybrids.
90   Salix glauca (identified by Panu), another common one in damp areas of valleys but I’m not sure what it is.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on August 26, 2010, 12:17:57 AM
Saxifragaceae
91,92   Saxifraga aizoides is not widespread in Sarek but can form substantial colonies, either wet along stream edges (91) or on damp moraine (92) in valleys.  As the flowers go over they uniformly turn a soft orange, making it look almost like a different plant.
93   Saxifraga cernua also prefers damp areas but grows at higher levels too, for example in seepage areas below snowfields or on recently exposed moraine.  Its 10-25 cm scapes carry mainly clusters of reddish bulbils, with usually a single large flower at the tip.
94,95   Saxifraga cespitosa is found higher up, near glacial streams or in damp patches on newly exposed moraine.
96   Saxifraga oppositifolia is locally common in Sarek on recently exposed moraines near glaciers but I also found it occasionally on old moraines in valleys and even on the exposed Sarektjåkkå ridge (2) at about 2,000 m.  Very spectacular in a rocky setting.  Although it begins flowering very early in the season, this year most plants were still in full bloom in late July.     
97   Saxifraga rivularis as the name implies favours damp areas, usually open stony sites at higher altitude where it can be locally common near streams or below snowfields or glaciers.
98   Saxifraga stellaris is probably the most widespread saxifrage in Sarek, occurring in damp areas of valleys, slopes and sometimes rock fields at higher levels.

Scrophulariaceae
99,100   Bartsia alpina is widespread and common at lower altitude, where it is a hemiparasite on grasses.  Its leaf litter has been suggested to promote plant diversity in the vicinity by increasing the availability of scarce nutrients.  There's more information about this species here (http://www.mun.ca/biology/delta/arcticf/_ca/www/scbaal.htm).
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ranunculus on August 26, 2010, 05:53:25 AM
More wonderful images, Ashley ... you are doing the area proud!
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Luc Gilgemyn on August 26, 2010, 08:14:27 AM
What an area ....  :o :o
Flabbergasting report Ashley !

If this were a rock concert, I guess the crowd would now be shouting "We want more... We want more...."

Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Lvandelft on August 26, 2010, 09:27:04 AM
Ashley, I’m enjoying your pictures of an area where I most likely never will come, really much.
Terrific landscapes there.
Surprised by all these alpines you found there. That must have been very exciting to find a white Loiseleuria, which I’ve never heard of before 8)
I remember once, after 4 hours walking, finding a white Rhodo ferrugineum :)
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ian mcenery on August 26, 2010, 09:51:43 AM
Great job Ashley !  :o
Terrific thread, well worth to be found amongst the threads not to be missed !!  :D :D
Don't let this stop you though...  ;D

Ashley I have only just found this thread but better late than never. It looks a fantastic place and presumably you were not short of daylight. It is great subject and very educational thank you

Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Panu on August 26, 2010, 11:22:48 AM
I´d say
86) Salix myrsinites
90) S. glauca
and the lanata is correct
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on August 26, 2010, 01:06:49 PM
Thanks very much Panu.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Paddy Tobin on August 26, 2010, 01:24:36 PM
Ashley,

Aren't the willows beautiful? Also the saxifraga oppositifolia, a lovely plant and photograph.

Great report.

Paddy
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on August 27, 2010, 12:04:38 AM
I'm very glad you are all enjoying it.
Some more:

Scrophulariaceae (continued)
101   Euphrasia frigida is also a hemiparasite, though not an obligatory one, and unusual here because it is an annual.  It is restricted to damp open or disturbed areas where it can establish.  Annuals are uncommon at high latitude and/or altitude because the generally low temperatures and short, unpredictable growing season limit seed production and seedling development.  Consequently these habitats tend to be dominated by perennials that reproduce mainly vegetatively.   The plant shown here was growing with the grass Festuca ovina and Astragalus alpina, both common host species.

102   Melampyrum sylvaticum grows below the treeline, as the name implies.  It is another facultative hemiparasitic annual that assimilates inorganic nitrogen poorly so grows better when it can take organic nitrogen from a host plant like Cornus suecica to support nitrogen-intensive synthesis of photosynthetic pigments.  Hemiparasitic plants usually transpire faster than their host plants and therefore draw water from them, bringing dissolved nutrients too.  Although the plant shown here grew in birch-dominated open woodland it was surrounded by Pinguicula so perhaps its nitrogen came second hand from mosquitos, or even third hand from the blood of passing animals like myself :o

103   Pedicularis lapponica is a perennial hemiparasite with wide host specificity, like Bartsia alpina (99,100).  It is common in Sarek, growing not only in valleys but also quite high up well-vegetated damp slopes & sometimes in large colonies.  Further information about this species is available here (http://www.mun.ca/biology/delta/arcticf/_ca/www/scpelp.htm). 

104,105   Pedicularis sceptrum-carolinum is the third of these perennial hemiparasitic species in Sarek, but found in wet areas at or below the treeline.  It is a striking plant even when not in flower, on account of its purple-brown foliage rosettes.

106   Veronica alpina is quite widespread in valleys and on lower slopes in damp grassy areas or near streams, usually singly but occasionally in small groups.

Violaceae
107   Viola biflora ssp. alpina is locally common, often in damp, part-shaded sites such as rock crevices or north-facing slopes where the soil is rich in humus and deep snow cover provides good winter protection. 

Woodsiaceae
108-110   Athyrium distentifolium is one of the most dramatic and I think beautiful plants in Sarek, easily identifiable even from a distance because of its bright green foliage and luxurious, feathery growth.  It forms extensive colonies on lower slopes above the treeline, along streams or seeps as well as in damp rocky areas.  Besides the usual form (108, 31), I came across several attractive variants with markedly narrower (109) or broader (110) leaflets.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: cohan on August 27, 2010, 02:38:39 AM
lots of cool stuff, esp love the pedicularis (-es? -i?)
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: TheOnionMan on August 27, 2010, 02:51:36 AM
I like the Pedics too, but the variation on Athyrium distentifolium is quite the find, important to see first hand, just how variable some plants can be.  Enjoying this series.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on August 27, 2010, 05:34:07 PM
Thanks Cohan and Mark.  Yes they're nice plants alright ;)


When considering alpine plants we rarely include mosses and lichens, I suppose because they tend to be small and/or subtle, slow-growing and rarely cultivated.  However they are the dominant or only vegetation (‘pre-alpine’) in Sarek’s high country, playing a fundamental role in its ecology – not least the development of post-glacial soils that allows other plants to colonise.  ‘Lichenometry’ ::) based on measurements of slow-growing crustose species has also been used to date moraine exposure and reconstruct glacial fluctuations in northern Sweden over the last millennium or so.

A casual visitor to these mountains can hardly fail to notice how extraordinarily beautiful many of these plants are.  Here are a few of those that caught my eye.   Unfortunately I don’t know what most of them are so would welcome IDs or suggestions.   

111   Branched (fruticose) lichen on a part of Sarektjåkkå ridge inaccessible to grazing reindeer.  Coin diameter 28.5 mm, for scale.
112   Foliose lichen with fruiting bodies
113   Crustose lichen, possibly Rhizocarpon geographicum
114   A miniature landscape
115   Acrocarp moss, possibly Polytrichum juniperum
116-119   Such wonderful colours.  The grey-blue & russet red ones were least common, mainly restricted to wet seep areas below snowfields. 
120   Vivid moss-scape on the east side of the Áhkká range.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: cohan on August 27, 2010, 07:45:24 PM
stunning! mosses and lichens are a huge part of the environment here as well, but mostly not as prominent as these, since there are a lot more/larger vascular plants here..the moss-scape is great, as is the foliose lichen!
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Paddy Tobin on August 27, 2010, 07:54:45 PM
Love the pedicularis. Paddy
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Graham Catlow on August 27, 2010, 08:17:41 PM
I have to agree with Cohan - stunning moss-scape.
Wonderful lichens especially the foliose. Great mosses too.

Graham
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Panu on August 27, 2010, 10:24:43 PM
I have no clue of the mosses and lichens, but just here´s a fairly good example of reindeer grazing in Norway, Finnmark

Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on August 29, 2010, 11:08:54 AM
Finally, here are a few pictures of non-plant life & general landscape.

121-123   Santa’s helpers on summer holiday.   Why reindeer (caribou, Rangifer tarandus) spend so much time in summer on residual snowpatches and snowfields rather than grazing is unclear.  Possibilities include keeping cool (thermoregulation) and avoiding harassment by parasitizing nose botflies (though probably not mosquitos, as was once thought).
124   Long-tailed skua, Stercorarius longicaudus.  These fine birds swoop aggressively on anyone blundering into their breeding territory. 

Some more landscapes along my route this year:
125   Looking eastward down lake Sitojaure from Rinim.  This year I entered Sarek here at Rinim, after a day’s hike south from the road then a boat trip west along the lake.  Rinim is still a little below the treeline, where Betula pubescens dominates the pockets of woodland.
126   From Rinim I walked west through Basstevágge valley to lake Bierikjávrre; view north, with the southern end of the Sarek range in the background.   
127   Under favourable weather conditions Sarektjåkkå, the Sarek ridge, makes a spectacular walk that can be completed in a (long) day.  View north, showing near-vertical drops on the east side to glaciers several hundred metres below.
128   View westward from the ridge, with less extreme gradients, toward Norway on the far horizon.  The thin black line (middle to middle-right of the picture) is a strip of median moraine that provided a convenient way up the Tjågnårisjiegna glacier a couple of days later.
129   Colony of Ranunculus glacialis, on the east side of Sarek Nordtoppen as I came down from the main spine of the mountain range.
130   View south through the upper Rapadalen valley from Skárja, central Sarek.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ranunculus on August 29, 2010, 11:19:50 AM
A tremendous topic, Ashley ... many congratulations.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on August 29, 2010, 12:41:37 PM
Thanks Cliff; glad you enjoyed it.  


Last ones :P :P :P

131   Upper Basstavágge valley near the watershed, looking west.  Mainly moss & lichen here, before descending to the grassy moraines around lake Bierikjávrre.
132   Guohperjåhkå valley; view east showing the complex network of channels and small lakes as the river approaches the upper Rapadalen valley (middle right).   
133   Fungi & moss beside stream.
134   Home sweet home, this time on the slopes of Niják mountain, view south-west along Ruohtesvágge valley.
135   Evening view westward toward Gisuris mountain.
136   Alpine lake on SE shoulder of Niják mountain.  Lichen land.
137   A vast expanse of lakes and marshes north of Sarek; view eastward from Áhkká.
138   Morning view from the east slopes of Áhkká (with apologies for domestic clutter ;)).
139   Leaving: footbridge across Vuojatädno river, west of Áhkká.
140   Sunset after several weeks’ daylight.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Armin on August 29, 2010, 05:33:05 PM
Ashley,
many thanks for taking us through the Western Europe's last wilderness and guiding us so excellently with your profound knowledge. 8)
Amazing is the diversity to be found in such a harsh environment.
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Ragged Robin on August 29, 2010, 10:52:23 PM
Ashley, your mosses and lichen photos are outstanding - I had no idea that a red moss existed! But then there are so many things that your wonderful report has brought to light in this astonishing wilderness :).

Thanks so much for all that you have shown and explained.... what luck to see a rainbow arc from your camp and a glorious sunset on the first proper night - did the daylight day and night have an effect on you?

Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: cohan on August 30, 2010, 02:30:48 AM
glorious, ashley--love those 'empty' landscapes! the ranunculus garden is fantastic :)
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: gote on August 30, 2010, 09:09:28 AM
The Aconitum septentrionale (for short) is not difficult but seed collection is awkward since the pods open more or less singly over a long period of time.
I will try to collect some this year.
Göte.
PS
Be warned.
It easily becomes a weed if the situation is congeinal to it.
It is also quite big. Can be 2m high (in cultivation)
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on September 09, 2010, 01:49:24 PM
Back again, belatedly.

Armin, I’m very far from an expert on any of this unfortunately.  Subarctic or alpine environments are generally ‘emptier’ and have lower biodiversity so seem ‘simpler’ too.   But maybe we’re just not looking hard enough ;)
Yes climate in Sarek seems harsh relative to say Ireland or even the nearby coast of Norway, but plants and animals are so well adapted and snow cover gives good winter protection.

Robin, I’m very glad you enjoyed the mosses and lichens.  The red one was new to me too and so dramatic on the bare side of a mountain.
I think most people adapt quickly to long days in the northern summer.  Personally I tend to sleep less and feel more energetic.  On a trip like this, although you have to keep an eye on the weather, the continuous daylight  means that you can forget about time.  You just walk whenever you like and for as long as you like, which gives a wonderful sense of freedom.

Cohan, yeah the ‘empty’ landscapes of the north appeal a lot to me too - and you have those on such an epic scale in Canada 8)
I find the lack of visual ‘clutter’ very calming and relaxing, as with sea or desert too.

Thanks Göte; very much appreciated.  I’ve sent you a PM. 

And thank you all for your interest and feed-back :)
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Armin on September 09, 2010, 02:06:49 PM
Ashley,
probably you are right that in our hurry times we do not look hard enough and overlook too many things !
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Liz Mills on September 12, 2010, 08:32:31 PM
What a joy it has been to read this thread.  I visited Iceland four years ago and this reminded me of the mountains, the 24 hours daylight and the vast emptiness there.  I'll need to re-visit my plant photos from this trip as I'll be able to use your photos to identify some of the unknowns.

Thank you Ashley
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: Maren on September 12, 2010, 10:55:06 PM
Ashley,

what an inspiring thread. Something to come back to time and again. You mentioned Pinguicula, I was thrilled. Would you know which ones they were? I don't suppose they're in cultivation?

It was good of you to organise your pictures in the way you did. When it came close to O, I wondered if you found any orchids. apparently not???
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on September 12, 2010, 11:29:03 PM
Delighted you enjoyed it Liz.  Yes indeed Iceland has white summer nights, beautiful landscapes and many of the same plants.  Also it has wonderful mountains right by the sea, especially in the north-west and north.
Perhaps you can take us on a visit ;) ;D  

Thanks for your kind comments Maren.  Pinguicula vulgaris is widespread in Sarek but in a few places I came across quite large colonies of P. alpina as well as various intermediate forms (P. x hybrida).  Several orchids are reported to grow here too but unfortunately they eluded me :-\  
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: cohan on September 13, 2010, 03:35:47 AM
Back again, belatedly.

Armin, I’m very far from an expert on any of this unfortunately.  Subarctic or alpine environments are generally ‘emptier’ and have lower biodiversity so seem ‘simpler’ too.   But maybe we’re just not looking hard enough ;)

Cohan, yeah the ‘empty’ landscapes of the north appeal a lot to me too - and you have those on such an epic scale in Canada 8)
I find the lack of visual ‘clutter’ very calming and relaxing, as with sea or desert too.

biodiversity is an interesting subject! just to pull some numbers from a hat--my alberta plants book mentions 1750 plant species for alberta (provincial area 661,185 km sq; believe this is vascular and non-vascular together) and a very quick web search suggests betweeen 20,000 and 50,000, vascular species alone for mexico (1,958,200 km sq)!!

nonetheless, i am realising that even a couple hundred in a local area is a lot when you are on the ground and looking closely over the course of a season :)

i hope to visit the 'empty' northern canadian zones one day-=-of course they are very far--- whitehorse, yukon -a possible starting point, is something like 1900km away by road or no doubt some expensive flights....lol..there must be some nearer areas in the north west territories, but must confess i don't know much about those areas!
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on September 13, 2010, 09:24:35 AM
... even a couple hundred in a local area is a lot when you are on the ground and looking closely over the course of a season :)

Definitely true Cohan.  Even for Sarek which is sometimes descibed as 'botanically impoverished' there are far more species than I mentioned here.  Rather than a random sample this was just a collection of the more eye-catching ones.

i hope to visit the 'empty' northern canadian zones one day-=-of course they are very far--- whitehorse, yukon -a possible starting point, is something like 1900km away by road or no doubt some expensive flights....lol..there must be some nearer areas in the north west territories, but must confess i don't know much about those areas! 

Just 2 days from southern Alberta to Watson Lake with a car & tent ;) ;D 8)
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: cohan on September 13, 2010, 06:33:22 PM

i hope to visit the 'empty' northern canadian zones one day-=-of course they are very far--- whitehorse, yukon -a possible starting point, is something like 1900km away by road or no doubt some expensive flights....lol..there must be some nearer areas in the north west territories, but must confess i don't know much about those areas! 

Just 2 days from southern Alberta to Watson Lake with a car & tent ;) ;D 8)

some day! though i might hold out for a camper or at least modified van! (those terms may not translate in britain--i mean a vehicle you can sleep in  ;D
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on September 14, 2010, 12:17:53 AM
Well, two days from Edmonton anyway. 
I know it can be done, even allowing for a pair of teenagers in the back & some adventures along the way ;)
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: MarcR on March 23, 2022, 09:09:37 PM
Beautiful photos!  Thank you Ashley
Title: Re: 'Western Europe's last wilderness'
Post by: ashley on March 23, 2022, 09:24:40 PM
Glad you enjoyed them Marc.  Although not very diverse botanically, it's a part of the world I like very much.
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