Scottish Rock Garden Club Forum
Bulbs => Bulbs General => Topic started by: fermi de Sousa on January 02, 2018, 02:56:48 PM
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Not quite in flower but already developing their "tip-knots", Eucomis vandermerwei.
Raised from seed of E. m.'Octopus'
cheers
fermi
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Here's some details of an unopened Lachenalia bifolia.
Interesting designs on the flower stem.
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I grow various Eucomis including Pole-evansii and Eucomis-vandermerwei and several probable hybrids. The larger varieties are in the garden or pots outside, the vandermerwei under cold glass. I get no seed on the latter and some seed on the others. As most have what I think of as unpleasant scent is it flies that pollinate them? I don't recall seeing anything else on them. Maybe my pole-evansii seed now is a cross with the hybrids too. Are any self fertile? Some of my original garden hybrids were from seed that "fell off" a plant in a garden centre many years ago. ;-) Never collected the "Sparkling Burgundy" seed. It just falls on the garden, but have not noticed any self sown plants.
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some sunny days finally.
Lachenalia bifolia
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Full color now.
Lachenalia bifolia.
A very big flowering stalk. At least 8-10 inches high.
Close up
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Full color now.
Lachenalia bifolia.
A very big flowering stalk. At least 8-10 inches high.
Close up
A nice plant Arnold, with good stem markings.
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Not quite in flower but already developing their "tip-knots", Eucomis vandermerwei.
Raised from seed of E. m.'Octopus'
Now in flower, Eucomis vandermerwei ex 'Octopus'
cheers
fermi
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Thank you Chris.
I have to give some credit to another forum member, Rimmer, who suggested I run some supplemental lights during daylight hours.
The plant is taller and more robust than in any previous years.
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Massonia (Napier) from McMaster seed started 24 months ago.
Is this M depressa or M pustulata?
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Wurmbea stricta has been flowering for a week in a cold garage in Kentucky.
Second photo taken 6Feb2018
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Rimmer, Your plant is the true Massonia pustulata (most plants in cultivation with M. pustulata on the label are now correctly called M. longipes)
Paul
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Moraea elegans.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
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Gladiolus grisues.
Found in the Western Cape almost always within sight of the ocean or not very far from it. Grows in calcareous sands or limestone.
Flowers in the early part of the season, May through June, in local habitat[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attach=2][attach=1] and pollinated by the honey bee.
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Gladiolus griseus is threatened - there are an estimated 250 left in the wild.
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Othonna cakilifolia in bloom
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Lachenalia splendens from 2013-14 AGS seed
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Tiny Lachenalia trichophylla
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At last Nerine undulata flowers are starting to shrivel and produce seeds.
It has been flowering since the first of December.
I bought the seeds from Silverhill in 2004, and it first flowered in 2010.
Since then it has flowered every year and has managed to drop its seeds
in nearby pots. I thought I was going to have Onixotis (now called Wurmbea)
flowering this year, but no, it was another plant of my prolific wavy nerine.
[attachimg=1]
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Daubenya aurea is flowering now. Here is a selection of four colour forms from yellow through orange to orangey-red to red. They really brighten up the glasshouse at this time of year!
Paul
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Marvelous colours, aren't they? Very hard to miss those in flower. How long do the flowers last?
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Nice plants, Paul! I'd be interested in your reply to Maggi's question. Do you have any tips on growing them from seed? I have no experience with Daubenya, but think a pot or two in the sunroom would be a wonderful addition. I am thinking of ordering seed from Silverhill Seeds.
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Maggi, Gordon - Daubenya aurea flowers last for roughly 3 weeks, though this can vary quite a bit depending on temperature. In contrast to many other South African bulbs, they take a long time from seed to flower, 5 to 7 years seems about par for the course. I have sent seed to the exchange in past years but didn't make any pods this last season - I'll pollinate the ones in the picture this time and send seed to the next exchange. Seed is best sown in the autumn and germinates in response to the rain and falling temperatures. I keep the seed pots outside until germination occurs, but move them under glass before then if frost threatens. Once germinated I keep them in a just frost-free glasshouse and give as much light as possible (never enough in our winters!). I give a weak feed of high potash fertiliser a few times through the growing season. Once they go dormant for summer I put them under the bench so they are not too hot and keep them dry, resuming watering in the autumn. I usually tip them out after two years to pot into larger community pots and then repot every year, keeping them in community pots until they make their first flowers, then potting individually the next season. Nothing "special" then as far as raising from seed is concerned - the only essential requirement is patience!
If you buy seed from suppliers, keep it warm (NOT in the fridge, room temperature is fine) until sowing time. Seed of these winter growers coming from the exchanges arrives rather late and you have a difficult choice then; it can be sown with success as late as January, but any resulting bulbs will have a short growing season and end up very tiny as a result. These tiny bulbs are more easily lost during dormancy due to desiccation. Or you can save the seed and sow it at the better time in autumn (September). I usually prefer the latter option.
Paul
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Thank you Paul. That was the best advice on growing Daubenya i have read!
Some Daubenya can be flowered from seed a bit faster. Here are two photos from Jan 6 , 2018 of a 10” pot of Daubenya zeyheri started from McMaster seed in September 2014. So 3.5 years from seed to flower.
The third picture is the plants now.
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Massonia depressa from Kamiesburg first time flowering. the center individual looks like no pollen -sterile.
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Massonia depressa from Uniondale with reddish anthers just opening for the first time.
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Here's some details of an unopened Lachenalia bifolia.
Interesting designs on the flower stem.
Arnold, this is Lachenalia bulbifera.
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Some lachenalia blooming now
The red-orange one in the center is reported as L callista that came as Massonia citrina.
The purple ones on the left i think are L. pallida (the seed came as Lachenalia namaquensis) due to the well extended stamens.
The multicoloured pink-purple on right back is also L pallida (the seed came as L. unicolor).
Second picture 15Feb 2018 after plunging pots in sand in fish box
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Greg:
In Graham Duncan's new Lachenalia book he indicates that the original name of L. bifolia.
page 157:
"In accordance with the International Code of botanical Nomenclature, however, the earliest epithet available for the plant is N. L. Burmann's (1786) bifolia, which W.F. Barker had intended to publish."
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Duncan corrected his mistake in 2014 in Curtis's Botanical Magazine.
"Lachenalia bulbifera" by Graham Duncan in Curtis's Botanical Magazine (2014) vol. 31 (3): pp 186-195.
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Some lachenalia blooming now
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The multicoloured pink-purple on right back is L unicolor.
That would also be Lachenalia pallida (according to the monograph).
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So it is L. bulbifera?
Do I get a new corrected book?
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So it is L. bulbifera?
Do I get a new corrected book?
It is. A new book would be great, though unlikely. Hopefully it would include the new species published in the last five years and maybe the one about to be published. Just a matter of trying to keep up with the publications.
The picture is from the discoverer, Florient Grenier.
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Greg:
Thanks for the update and setting things straight.
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Hesperantha humilis
From Silverhill Seeds.
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Oh my word - those leaves are exquisite! And the flowers!!! So lovely!
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Tatsuo, your plants are always so compact in the good light you enjoy. My Hesperantha humilis gets much taller but does at least flower well for me (see picture below). The flowers last for several weeks. I agree with you Maggi, this is an exquisite plant and I absolutely adore it. If I had to choose say 10 only of all my South African Bulbs to keep, this would so be in that 10!
Paul
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And your photo shows why, Paul! It's a stunner.
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Hesperantha humilis.
If I had to choose say 10 only of all my South African Bulbs to keep, this would so be in that 10!
Paul
Paul i am wondering what your other 9 top South African bulb choices are! :)
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Me too!! ;D
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Oh my word - those leaves are exquisite! And the flowers!!! So lovely!
Thanks, Maggi :)
Tatsuo, your plants are always so compact in the good light you enjoy. My Hesperantha humilis gets much taller but does at least flower well for me (see picture below). The flowers last for several weeks. I agree with you Maggi, this is an exquisite plant and I absolutely adore it. If I had to choose say 10 only of all my South African Bulbs to keep, this would so be in that 10!
Thanks, Paul. Your dome shaped flowers look very nice :D I'd like to add Lapeirousia oreogena to the top 10 list ;)
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Gladiolus venustus
Found in the southern African winter rainfall area. Pollinated by long-tongued bees, who are attracted to the scent and nectar found in the fairly long perianth tubes.
They are scentless to my nose.
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Rimmer & Gordon, you asked what other plants would be in my list of top ten favourites in addition to the Hesperantha humilis. Difficult question! - but having thought about it, I came up with the following:
Brunsvigia bosmaniae
Daubenya aurea
Daubenya zeyheri
Empodium plicatum (or E. flexile, equally good)
Ixia viridflora var minor
Lapeirousia azurea
Lapeirousia oreogena (agree with you Tatsuo!)
Massonia citrina
Polyxena pygmaea
Strumaria watermeyeri ssp botterkloofensis
Syringodea longituba
I guess if you were to ask me another time I may have a different list! I posted pictures of Daubenya aurea recently. Below are some of the rest of my listed favourites, and I'll add the rest in a couple of more posts.
I'd be interested to read other people's top ten lists. Have a go - it's quite hard to do!
Paul
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Next lot of photos of plants in my top ten.
Paul
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Last lot of photos of my top ten. OK, I cheated..... this is really a top twelve!
Paul
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Beautiful, all of them!
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You cheated in two ways, Paul - 12 for 10 and you listed them alphabetically and (possibly) not in order of most favourite !!! ;D ;D ;D
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Yes, doubly guilty Maggi! Trying to decide the order of most favourite was a step too far!
Paul
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[attachimg=1]
Gotta laugh at that - it's an unfair question isn't it? The favourite is the one of the moment usually, isn't it? The one in flower right in front of us at any given moment !! ;D
Which is good, 'cos it gives us scope for a LOT of favourites!!
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Paul, I take it that your greenhouse is heated? Are there any of your favourite south africans suitable for an un-heated greenhouse.
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Awesome plant selection, Paul! I've been inspired to try a few myself.
Here's a question.... I wonder if anyone has attempted crossing Daubenya aurea with D. zeyheri, and if so, what were the results?
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Ian, Yes, my greenhouse is heated (just frost-free, no more) and the hardiness of many of these plants is un-tested. While not in my top ten, when I worked at Wisley we tried Massonia longipes in an un-heated house with success - it would look awful after frost, but recovered with no obvious damage when temperatures rose. I have had Spiloxene linearis outside on the crevice garden for two years where it has survived -6 Centigrade. I suspect there are many South African bulbs that would do Ok in an unheated house, covered with fleece on cold nights, but my own experience is limited. I know at least one member of the South African bulb group who grew everything in an unheated glasshouse and did OK with many things - but they were living on the south coast so never really cold. It would well be worth experimenting. Daubenya aurea comes from one of the coldest parts of South Africa up on the Roggeveld Plateau where it gets very cold and the plants are sometimes covered in snow. Anything from that area, places such as Komsberg and so on may well be worth trying.
Gordon - I have tried several times to make Daubenya hybrids but never succeeded; unlike Massonias which hybridise readily, Daubenyas seem not so to do. I'm going to keep trying and would also be interested to hear if anyone else had tried with success?
Cheers
Paul
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Daubenya aurea seedlings, and several polyxenas ( cold lachenalias) and technophialias are planted in my cold frame which only gets covered with a sheet of polycarbonate when it gets below 15F (-10C). The sand freezes if damp and these dont seem to mine. When to gets to 10F (-12C) to zeroF i add a frost blanket under the polycarbonate sheet.
If i get a lot of seedlings i typically put some in frame to test cold hardieness.
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Last lot of photos of my top ten. OK, I cheated..... this is really a top twelve!
A fine selection Paul. Here's Syringodea longituba in the Cederberg mountains in July.
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Thanks Paul and Rimmer. I might try some.
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Good for you Ian. I would like to know more about hardiness or lack of it for South African bulbs. I will be doing more experiments myself, but meanwhile if anyone on this forum has experiences they can share it would be most useful. Do you grow any under glass with no heat? Have you tried any in the open garden? Any information would be helpful
Paul
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Moraea polystachya
[attachimg=1]
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Moraea polystachya
In our garden Moraea polystachya are just awakening! They'll be in flower soon ;D
Starting to flower: Crossyne flava - only one flower-head so far - not sure if the others will bloom this year,
cheers
fermi
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Two different Geissorhiza
the dark purple is aff to G. aspera but for the yellow pollen. Leaves up to0.5cm wide
The pale one is unknown. Came from PBS BX 429 as sp. it is a bigger plant with leaves about 1cm wide and a sturdier stem than The darker one.
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Not a bulb but many of us who grow south african bulbs know Rachel and Rodney from Silverhill seeds.
I'm shocked :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
https://www.mirror.co.uk/news/world-news/british-couple-feared-kidnapped-isis-12084474 (https://www.mirror.co.uk/news/world-news/british-couple-feared-kidnapped-isis-12084474)
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What distressing news!
fermi
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Shocked and so saddened to hear this news.
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I would like to know more about hardiness or lack of it for South African bulbs. I will be doing more experiments myself, but meanwhile if anyone on this forum has experiences they can share it would be most useful. Do you grow any under glass with no heat? Have you tried any in the open garden? Any information would be helpful
Paul
Eucomis are pretty hardy no matter how you grow them.
I have right now a pot with Moraea Huttonii in the open and they show no damage signs of the last weeks where temps drop to -5°C at night.
On the other hand, my Nerine Bowdenii are absolutely not frost hardy.
I also have crinum bulbs, the Bulbispermum and any cross with Bulbispermum in it's parentage are also hardy, and the same for Crinum Moorei.
And finally, I also have some Dierama outiside in pots and these also show no signs of damage from the cold.
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Brunsvigia marginata in flower - not sure if it's the first time as I can't find an earlier record of it.
Grown from Silverhill Seeds,
cheers
fermi
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This one was a surprise.
Popped up in a pot of Gladiolus.
Moraea elegans.
Large flower compared to some of the other Moraeas I've grown.
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A new one to me.
Lachenalia callista
Long tubular flowers suggest bird pollination.
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Lachenalia callista
first photo 19 Feb, second and third photos today 1 March, it likes the heat under the T-5 lights and almost No water !
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Lachenalia orchidiodes
From 2013/4 AGS seed #3428
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Lachenalia bachmanii a fast grower- pops up in neighboring pots of dry pumice
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Nice plants and images!
Could you possibly post some photos of your setup under artificial lighting?
What temperature range do you keep them at and what is the wattage of the lights?
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Nice plants and images!
Could you possibly post some photos of your setup under artificial lighting?
What temperature range do you keep them at and what is the wattage of the lights?
Thank you Steve. I use an iphone for the snaps. Nothing compared to your exceptional photos.
These plants are in the garage under A 6 tube T-5 lamp with the standard 54 watt 6400k tubes they came with. The 6 tube units have 2 switches, to save on heat i typicall only use the outer 4 tubes with the inner 2 lamps switched off. The lights are set to be on sun up to sun down-but very bright light all day. The lamps are about 1 foot above the pots and when it is not cold out (below freezing) the heat from the lights is a bit much for the winter growers so i leave the garage open to the weather, wind (and critters) as much as possible. The upper shelves of this shelving rack are for the plants that can tolerate more warmth and the lower shelves and floor are for those plants that did not like the heat. I need more lower shelves. I find that plunging pots in a styrofoam fish box of sand helps moderate the heat. I hope to build more sand plunge beds. And plant some things directly in the sand like i do in my sand frames outside.
I would love to keep the temps cool 40-60F but after a few hours with the lights on it can get about 75-80F and 40-50F at Night. Temps are About 45-65 when below freezing outside. I need to get a new fan. The past few weeks have been mild and many trays are brought outside to enjoy the sun and rain and cool spring temps.
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Hi Rimmer, many thanks for the very helpful description of your set-up. I am planning to try artificial lighting for some Pleione and other (semi) hardy orchids.
Have you thought about trying LED lighting? There are consumer LED striplights of 6,500 kelvin that do not require a separate driver and will fit into standard T5 fittings. The main advantages are reduced power consumption (can be 50% less than fluorescent) and much less heat production as a consequence of the greater efficiency of LEDs as a light source. The big disadvantage is the initial capital outlay, though LED lights last longer and consume much less power so are cheaper in the long term. Another problem is getting a good balanced light output. The colour temperature of a light source (the Kelvin temp) does not give a true indication of its suitability for growing plants as it only reflects the sum total of light wavelengths. Green plants have peak light absorptions at about 400nm and again at 680nm -the range between (known as PAR: Photosynthetically active radiation) is what is most relevant for a plant light source but unfortunately the PAR output of specific LEDs and T5s is rarely available. I managed to obtain a PAR light meter and so plan to check out some of the readily available LEDs rated at 6,500K to see which are most suitable.
It is also easy and cheap to rig up some computer fans (connect to an AC to 12v DC transformer) for use in cooling light units and encouraging air movement over plant leaves. Cheap fan units designed for aquarium canopies can be bought on ebay.
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Here's a Lachenalia callista close-up with better light and an unknown Lachenalia.
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A steady returner.
Not yet fully opened.
Veltheimia bracteata.
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Are there any suppliers of bulbs in the UK.
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Ian:
Have a look.
http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Sources (http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Sources)
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Thanks Arnold, it looks to be an interesting list of suppliers.
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Are there any suppliers of bulbs in the UK.
There's also Rogers Nursery which took over Rupert Bowlby's collection. Pricey though. http://www.rvroger.co.uk/index.php?linksource=listgroup&listgroupfile=bulbs (http://www.rvroger.co.uk/index.php?linksource=listgroup&listgroupfile=bulbs)
The South African Bulb Group may also be of interest: http://www.sabg.tk/links.html (http://www.sabg.tk/links.html)
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Thanks Steve, as you say, a bit pricey.
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Ian, are you looking for Veltheimia bracteata specifically, or South African bulbs in general? If the latter, or indeed if you have an interest in them generally, I can strongly recommend the Southern African Bulb Group. Two excellent meetings in Winchester each year, lots of bulbs for sale by members, and there is also a very good annual bulb and seed exchange. Great way to make contact with other growers.
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Hello Jeremy, I have not grown any South African bulbs at all but may try some easier species. They would need to be suitable for an un-heated greenhouse.
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Ian, there are a number of South African bulbs which will grow well in an unheated greenhouse.
Daubenya aurea would be an ideal candidate as it comes from high in the Roggeveld Mountains in suitable habitats between Sutherland and Middelpos in the Northern Cape. Daubenya aurea is reasonably frost tolerant and is often covered by snow in its natural environment. It occurs in both red and yellow populations. These and other South African bulbs are often for sale on ebay but are best purchased from cultivated Northern Hemisphere stock.
My plants look a bit tatty due to the recent bad weather (they were exposed to wind-blown snow through a side vent that I hadn’t completely closed prior to the coming of “The Beast from the East”).
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4800/39800825375_f247db2fa5_o_d.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4794/39800825905_96c5f0668e_o_d.jpg)
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Nice plants Steve.
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Steve,
I wish my plants looked as tatty :o
;D
Here is a rather drawn Nerine angulata I got in 2001 but was only repotted in 2015 - it has been grown in shade and is leaning towards the light!
cheers
fermi
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Why is it that with exactly the same conditions, some of the ferraria spend the winter with one or two thin leaves only but others become huge, lobed and flower?
I think these have to be some of my favourite south african bulbs - Ferraria crispa variations.
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Very nice Paul.
Where in the UK are you?
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Im in not so sunny and still rather snowy Falkirk, quite high above sea level but the ferraria are all indoors under LED lights
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Light levels is quite an issue this far north, trying to grow South African species. Not tried lights yet.
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PAUL:
Light level are such a challenge here in the northern hemisphere.
Can you outline your set up using the LED's.
I just installed some T-5's fluorescent bulbs.
Thanks,
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The question of getting Ferrarias to flower came up at the last Southern African Bulb Group meeting in October last year, and the consensus was that they are best left undisturbed, i.e. don't repot regularly, and don't remove the old corms which remain attached to the new ones, and which don't wither away like other Iridaceae. I can't say for sure this works, but I'm going to try it - I've never yet flowered any Ferraria, which is very frustrating!
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Gladiolus usyiae is currently flowering well as is Gladiolus watermeyeri. Seems to be a good year for my Gladioli, all of which have flowered or are about to flower very well. One G. uysiae has produced a flower of aberrant form, almost regular in shape. I guess this is a one-off which is unlikely to recur but I will label it and watch and see what happens next year.
Paul
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Arnold
My set up is in a very bright (when its sunny) south facing conservatory. That part of the house is cold in winter but always above freezing .
I built a 1M square unit out of plastic pipes to support the lighting unit, which hangs down from it using adjustable cables. The lights, and their fans, do generate heat and raise the day time temperature considerably if it is a sunny day but as the lights are on a timer, the temperature dips down cold at night.
The LED unit was very expensive and has two switches 'grow' and 'bloom' - I don't really understand the mechanism, or if it had to do with the switch to bloom setting, but most of the bulbs flowered much earlier than they should, so the lachenalia, gladioli, moraeas were all flowering in January. Then again, we had some very cold nights in July and many of the bulbs started much earlier than they should have this year too. Equally, I bought some tulbaghias a few weeks ago, and as it was too cold for them outside, they were under the lights and are all blooming now.
Hope this is helpful - I can send you specs and brand of the LED lights if you'd like
All the best
Paul
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[attachimg=1]
Moraea elegans is looking good now.
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Paul:
Thanks for the details.
I've read much on LED's and Kelvin Temperature and wave length.
I have to say I'm a bit confused.
Each manufacture has their won set of numbers and figures.
Looks to me like the market drivers aren't those of us that grow flowers for their beauty but those that grow their plants for other reasons.
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It is all fairly confusing Arnold.
Until recently the main driving force behind the development of LED plant lighting has been Cannabis growers on the one hand and the aquarium/vivarium hobby on the other with hydroponics growers and professional horticulturists also now joining the party. Each tackles the issue from a different perspective.
Green plants look green because they preferentially absorb light of certain wavelengths and reflect what they don’t use. Photosynthesis is mainly driven by absorption of light between 400 and 700nm -this range is referred to as PAR (Photosynthetically active radiation). Within this range there are absorption peaks at both the blue end (400-480nm) and the red end (650-700nm). The area in between is mainly green-yellow light; the human eye is most sensitive to light in the 550-650nm range.
If you were to design an efficient artificial light to preferentially grow plants this lamp would emit blue light peaking at about 430nm and red light peaking at about 720nm. LEDs tend to emit light of fairly narrow wavelengths -the specific wavelength dependent upon how the LED is constructed. So by carefully choosing your types of individual LED it is possible to create a group of LEDs which selectively output light at the plants’ desired wavelengths with almost all the energy input being directed into plant-useable light. Such a multi-LED lamp looks peculiar to the human eye and does not appear to be particularly bright.
If you are displaying plants in an aquarium or vivarium then aesthetic appearance is paramount. White light is required to give it a natural look. There is however no such thing as pure white light as white light is composed of varying amounts of red/yellow/green/blue/violet light. The exact proportions of each dictate how the white light is perceived by the human eye. More red/yellow-green produces a “warm” white light whilst “natural daylight” has more blue and is described as a colder light. These “thermal” terms have no scientific meaning as white light is also often labelled by its colour temperature measured in Kelvin -paradoxically the higher the Kelvin temperature the “colder” the appearance of the light! Warm white light is usually around 3,500K whilst Natural Daylight is about 6,500K.
In a planted vivarium the plants will look their most natural (to the human eye) with a white light of about 6,500K. This light will have blue and red components (as well as all the other colours). If this light source is very strong (bright) then it will contain enough red and blue light to drive effective photosynthesis BUT it has a low bang for the buck as only a modest proportion of this light’s energy consumption goes towards producing “plant-growing light”.
If you simply want to grow plants under artificial light and keep power consumption to a minimum then a selective PAR light source is required. Paul appears to be using a Platinum light unit which has selective LEDs producing “blue-heavy” and “red-heavy” light (I think they also include near infra-red and UVA LEDs also) -this unit will produce great plant growth over its intended coverage but will look alien and bizarre to the human eye. It does however produce great plant-growing light for the energy consumed. There is evidence that at least in certain plants (most evidence comes from cannabis growers), green leaf growth is most dependent upon blue light whilst flowering is induced by increasing red light exposure which is why many units (including the Platinum unit) have a “growth” button and a “flowering button” (the latter switches on more red LEDs).
The science is more complicated than I have described above and I perhaps should include a disclaimer that I do not and never have cultivated or used cannabis! :o
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An interesting discussion of LED grow lights.
I have to admit that I do not use and know nothing about LED grow lights, however a few things did come to my mind. Visible light runs in the 1014 Hz to 1015 Hz range. When considering waves, not only does wavelength/frequency need to be considered but also amplitude (Power, i.e.Watts). Light emitting diodes are known for their low power usage (Wattage). I do not know, but maybe this affects photosynthesis for the plants growing under such lights. Something to consider: a low amplitude, unmodulated microwave does not do much, increase the amplitude and it will cook your food. Another consideration might be how diodes work. AC current applied to a diode creates unidirectional pulsing DC current. This is certainly different from natural sunlight and even other light emitting devices. Do LED grow lights have different wattage out put ratings? As well as differing frequency bands? Certainly the material from which a LED is made will determine the frequency (spectrum) of light emitted.
Maybe a light-emitting rectifier(s) would create a more useful light for plants, but then power usage would increase considerably. :o ;D
Just some thoughts that I thought might be helpful. Or questions to ask the distributers of the LED grow lights.
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Robert, the wattage of a light source is a rather poor indication of the “photosynthetic effectiveness” of that light source as artificial lights variably squander much of their power input through heat generation. LEDs produce less heat than fluorescent or metal halide lights but the lumen value or wattage on the box of an LED light unit is not a good indication of its plant growing power. The best measurement of “plant lighting” is the PAR output which is measured in micromoles of photons per square metre per second (within the wavelength range of 400-700nm) unfortunately most lighting units don’t come with a PAR score.
The other issue which I didn’t mention is light intensity reduction with distance. The intensity of light is inversely proportional to the square of the distance from that light. This means that if you double the distance of a plant from the light source this will reduce the light intensity to a quarter of what it was. As LEDs run a lot cooler than other light sources it is possible to reduce the distance between the LED and the plant thus increasing light intensity without scorching the plant.
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Hi Steve,
I'm not likely to use artificial lighting, however the information is quite interesting. Thank you for sharing. I will look into this more as I can.
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Veltheimia bracteata in full color and two similar Lachenalia.
I enjoy the gentle blending of the colors on the Lachs.
Lachenalia callista
Lachenalia aloides quadricolor
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The colour of this cyrtanthus is unbelievable: the photo doesnt quite capture it.
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The colour of this cyrtanthus is unbelievable
Really nice flower shape too.
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nice this Cyrthantus !
it feels very good in my greenhouse now!
Gladiolus tristis, sown in January 2016. it is very pleasantly scented.
one on this Gladiolus, among this seedling has bloomed in 2017, the year after sowing; its foliage seems to remain smaller (70 -80 cm approximately), finer too.
Freesia xanthospila (syn Freesia caryophyllacea?) Bulblets were received from the srgc in January 2016 and have been waiting this winter to produce leaves and flowers. they supported -7 ° C in the greenhouse this spring.
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Gladiolus longicollis
Sweetly scented of carnation and clove pollinated by night flying moths
Found SE Cape
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apart from the scent, it seems that Gladiolus longicorni looks a lot like Gladiolus tristis ...
what are the differences?
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Veronique:
Here are some images of both.
https://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Gladiolus_tristis (https://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Gladiolus_tristis)
https://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Gladiolus_longicollis (https://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Gladiolus_longicollis)
Gladiolus longicollis Baker is a species found in a wide area of southern Africa, including the southern Cape, the eastern Cape, the Free State and the Northern Province. There are two subspecies. It has pale yellow to white long tubed flowers that are either uniformly colored or mottled with brown. Flowers are night blooming and sweetly scented of carnation and cloves. The first three photos from Cameron McMaster and the next two from Mary Sue Ittner. Photos three thru five were taken at Naude's Nek. The last photo from the book Plants of the Klein Karoo courtesy of Jan and Anne Lise Schutte-Vlok. They describe it as growing up to 60 cm tall with narrow cylindrical leaves and flowers with red brown spots and lines. The anthers are not much exposed, a characteristic that helps distinguish it from a similar looking Gladiolus tristis.
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why, Arnoldt, yours is now blooming in the Northern Hemisphere while it is said to be growing in the rainy summers?
G. longicollis is normally summer growing, right?
I think to have some germination of G. longicollis from seeds srgc 2017-2018
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Manning states in his Gladiolus book:
G. longicollis flowers October through mid-February.
G. tristis flowers September to November rarely in August, occasionally in December or early January at higher altitudes.
Of course this is in situ.
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Moraea atropunctata
From Silverhill Seeds.
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I've wanted to grow this for a long time. Either seed was not available from the seed lists or I got the wrong Moraea. I got seed from the AGS in 2007. I have been keeping the seedlings in the house . I have another younger potful so thought I'd risk putting this pot in the greenhouse to get more light. The plants have survived some nights of below freezing temperatures. I am so thrilled to see 4 flowering stems. Can't wait to see the flowers.
Moraea aristata
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I've wanted to grow this for a long time. Either seed was not available from the seed lists or I got the wrong Moraea. I got seed from the AGS in 2007. I have been keeping the seedlings in the house . I have another younger potful so thought I'd risk putting this pot in the greenhouse to get more light. The plants have survived some nights of below freezing temperatures. I am so thrilled to see 4 flowering stems. Can't wait to see the flowers.
Moraea aristata
I can’t wait to see the flowers as well Roma. Well grown.
Angie :)
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Moraea villosa.[attachimg=1]
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Beautiful, Michael. Love these 'Peacock' Moraeas.
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Clivia x kewensis ‘Vico Yellow’
Named for his home in Switzerland "Vico Morcote"
This was developed by Sir Peter Smithers
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Some autumn blooms:
Nerine rosea
Nerine filifolia
Oxalis flava, mauve-pink form
Oxalis hirta - "Rosea" form
cheers
fermi
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A few more:
Oxalis flava, yellow form;
Polyxena longituba (syn Lachenalia longituba);
Oxalis hirta;
Nerine fothergilla 'Major'
cheers
fermi
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Lachenalia ensifolia
[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]
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Nice images of this cracking wee plant Chris!
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Chris:
Is this a recent photo. My L. ensifolia flowers first in early Nov.
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Thanks Steve.
Taken yesterday, Arnold. Fairly new purchase so out-of-sync.
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AHH.
Looks great as well.
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At long last warm enough for this flower to open yesterday
Moraea aristata
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Roma, have you ever tried it in the garden?
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No, David. It has been growing in the house and this is the first winter it has spent in the greenhouse. I have a younger potful so thought I would chance this pot in the greenhouse over winter and hoped the extra light would induce it to flower. It worked! The temperature in the greenhouse has not dropped much below freezing. As it is a winter grower I do not think it would survive outside.
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Here's the last Lachenalia of the season and my favorite.
Grows well and wonderfully scented.
Lachenalia nervosa.
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A misnamed gladiolus flowering in my garden for the first time -
from the AGS 2006 seedlist, listed as G. floribundus miniatus,
neither of which look like this.
What is it really?
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Ornithogalum ceresianum
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The recent (brief) heatwave here has meant that these are past their best:
Babiana rubrocyanea
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/912/40193511710_7cfd71a26c_o_d.jpg)
Geissorhiza aspera
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/948/28129052868_489424fa6c_o_d.jpg)
Gladiolus carinatus
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/958/28129053088_1e835a7c12_o_d.jpg)
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Stunning photos, Steve! Is Gladiolus carinatus fragrant?
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Many thanks Gordon.
Yes it is fragrant with a scent Sweet Violets.
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For a few years upto 2012 I had a small clump of Ixia hybrids but then all of them disappeared without trace until today when I found this one.
[attachimg=1]
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The 'Beast from the East' just about did for a lovely clump of Tulbaghia violacea and I've managed to save only two small pieces to grow on again. Funnily enough this was the first time that I had cut the plant down to around 4" following some advice I read on a specialist nursery's web site. T. 'Purple Eye', which I didn't attack with the scissors on the other hand sailed through the storms and is just as good as ever.
Tulbaghia 'Purple Eye'
[attachimg=1]
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Wow David I thought my plant looked good until now. That’s a lovely display . I grow mine in the greenhouse . I don’t think it would be hardy enough to grow outside up here .
Angie :)
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A misnamed gladiolus flowering in my garden for the first time -
from the AGS 2006 seedlist, listed as G. floribundus miniatus,
neither of which look like this.
What is it really?
Hi Diane,
I wonder if it is some sort of hybrid involving G. triste?
Here's another "mystery" - this gladdie came up where I don't remember planting any!
From the time of flowering I suspected it might be Gladiolus dalenii which grows in another area (and is not even in bud so probably won't flower before the frosts knock'em down).
However the flower is a bit different to the others - here's a link to a pic I took of one a few years ago: http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=11890.msg306613#msg306613 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=11890.msg306613#msg306613)
This could just be a seasonal aberration but otherwise it is possibly a different clone - but how would it have got here?
cheers
fermi
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Here's the last Lachenalia of the season and my favorite...Lachenalia nervosa.
Hi Arnold
just germinating here!
Did you donate seed to the SRGC in 2017?
cheers
fermi
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Good News from here ...my Amnocharis baumii is flowering :
http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=16441.0 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=16441.0)
Enjoy
Hans 8)
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My re-potting has yielded some spare bulbs that I have just put for sale on eBay. Here is a summary list of what's for sale:
South African Bulbs: Drimia nana, Daubenya zeyheri (Jacob’s bay), Gethyllis verticillata (Vanrhyns Pass) 3 - 4 years old, Massonia depressa with maroon flowers (Uniondale), Massonia citrina (Rooihoogte Pass) various sizes, Strumaria watermeyeri subsp. botterkloofensis, Polyxena pygmaea (Karas), Massonia hirsuta, Massonia longipes (George), Massonia longipes (Agulhas Plain), Nerine humilis (Piekenierskloof), Strumaria karooica (Meintjiesplaas), Gethyllis hybrid (G. roggeveldensis x G. villosa), Daubenya stylosa, Strumaria truncata (Garies), Massonia depressa (Kamieskroon), Bulbinella graminifolia, Brunsvigia hybrid (B. bosmaniae x B. orientalis)
Also a couple of non-South African: Scilla hughii young bulbs, Tecophilea cyanocrocus var. leichtlinii (young offsets).
You can go directly to my listings on eBay by clicking this: http://ebay.eu/1n3uCgm (http://ebay.eu/1n3uCgm)
Thanks
Paul
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It occurs to me we don't grow enough South African bulbs here - time to remedy that!
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Fermi:
No I didn't but should have a load this year.
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It occurs to me we don't grow enough South African bulbs here - time to remedy that!
Oh! Ebay visited, speedy delivery, Paul, thank you!
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Oh! Ebay visited, speedy delivery, Paul, thank you!
Thanks Maggi. I hope you have fun and pleasure growing them. And thanks to everyone else who has supported me. You may like to know that we intend to spend what we have raised on a new project in the garden, building a new raised bed outdoors specifically for bulbs. My partner Colin has already started the construction and intends to try a lot of Fritillaria in it to extend our knowledge of which ones are Ok outside in our climate. I'll add some of the South African things again to see what might make it outdoors here. And no doubt a whole host of other things will sneak their way in too! We have spent hours agonising what medium to fill the bed with but it is likely going to be largely a sand bed. We'll share photos etc of it all as we go along.
Paul
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Sounds a fun project - will look forward to hearing how it goes.
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Here is another offer for seeds/bulbs from South Africa :) and some other ...
Seeds:
Ipheion hirtellum
Ipheion sessile
Massonia bakeriana
Massonia pygmea ex Kamiesberg
Massonia spec. north of Stutterheim
Massonia spec. Roggefeld
Massonia tenella
Tulbaghia violacea v.macmasteri
Bulbs :
Strumaria :
aestivalis
discifera ssp.bulbifera
picta
undulata
Beometra uniflora
Eucomis regia
Haemanthus X albiflos x incarnatus
Hyacithioides lingulata
Nerine :
humilis De Toitskloof
humilis DT
humilis Piekenierskloof
humilis v.breachae
sarniensis ' Red Pearls'
sarniensis 'Afterglow'
sarniensis CB
sarniensis 'Corusca Mayor'
sarniensis f. alba
sarniensis 'Miss Cator'
X mansellii
Massonia :
bakeriana
citrina
depressa Bredasdorp MC
depressa Concordia BS
depressa JES 515
depressa Kamieskroon/Namaqualand
depressa liver colored form DH
depressa Middelpos/Roggeveld
depressa Rietfontain GS2010 Nr.3593
jasminiflora King William Town MC
longipes Cape Agulhas MC
longipes De Hoop GD
longipes ex Arniston AB
pustulata Napier/N GD
spec.Alexanderbay DH
tenella Niewoudtville
If anybody is interested for seeds/bulbs please contact me via PM
I prefer swap ( for things what I not have in my collection )
Or payment ( reasonable prices + posting charges )
If wished I can take Pictures for the size of bulbs
...sorry all seeds/bulbs are gone ....
Best wishes
Hans
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Can someone id this zantedeschia for Treborth Botanic Garden, please? It is the first time it has flowered for us. We don't have a record of where it came from and because of the leaves it is on the database as Z. albomaculata but the flowers are too yellow for that. Z elliotiana or Z jucunda maybe?
Thank you
Erle on Anglesey
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Hesperantha humilis first flowers of the season
cheers
fermi
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Can someone id this zantedeschia for Treborth Botanic Garden, please? It is the first time it has flowered for us. We don't have a record of where it came from and because of the leaves it is on the database as Z. albomaculata but the flowers are too yellow for that. Z elliotiana or Z jucunda maybe?
Thank you
Erle on Anglesey
Hello Menai,
Looks very much like my Zantedeschia Pentlandii
see a pic of this years flower : http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=16185.msg393702#msg393702 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=16185.msg393702#msg393702)
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Thank you very much François. The leaf shape looks right too.
Erle
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It occurs to me we don't grow enough South African bulbs here - time to remedy that!
Many are wintergrowing species, which is not easy at our dark Northern latitudes in winter, and ideally these should be grown in a heated greenhouse, which is also not evident. But any summer growing South African bulb can count in me. I have right now a wonderful patch of Ornithogalum candicans starting to flower :-)
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My patch of Ornithogalum Candicans (and some green flowering ones at the front)
Right now the older adult bulbs are flowering, but I spaced out my seedling bulbs this spring and many of them have since then grown strong enough to produce flowers also, that will be a second flush of flowers in a week or so, they are mostly in bud now. I didn't expect the seedling bulbs to flower this year already as they were at best just a bit over 1 cm in diameter when I repotted & spaced them.
I grow them all in pots because their frost resistance is too low for the winters at my home.
[attachimg=1]
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This is Bulbinella latifolia var doleritica which I got as seed from Silverhills in 1999.
It languished in a pot till 2016 when it was liberated into the garden and would've flowered that year except that the flower spikes aren't frost hardy :'(
Likewise last year but this year two spikes have gotten "above the frost" and the first has opened its flowers today - only 19 years after germinating!
I hope it sets seed!
If I can extract an offset I might try it in a more protected area to see if it flowers more regualrly,
cheers
fermi
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In Sheffield Botanic Garden we have Bulbinella latifolia ssp latifoliaand it usuaally flowers in late winter/early spring so fascinating that this var is flowering now.
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In Sheffield Botanic Garden we have Bulbinella latifolia ssp latifoliaand it usuaally flowers in late winter/early spring so fascinating that this var is flowering now.
Over here it is still winter :)
cheers
fermi
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The recent cooling and increased atmospheric humidity has awakened some South African bulbs here.
First a couple of summer-growers:
Cyrtanthus epiphyticus
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1791/29138057297_ac7ffdb9ba_o_d.jpg)
Boophone disticha -a summer-grower here in contrast to its cousin below. It has been growing outside since early June.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1837/42266025200_6c70cdfb13_o_d.jpg)
Gethyllis verticillata (ex Koringberg) -a winter-grower which flowers suddenly in mid-summer.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1771/29138057477_fd4499f1a7_o_d.jpg)
Boophone haemanthoides -first time flowering though I got it as a young plant 20+ years ago!
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1811/42266024310_5f00d0987e_o_d.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1832/42266024620_5dbc007eb6_o_d.jpg)
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Boophone haemanthoides -first time flowering though I got it as a young plant 20+ years ago!
Can't call you a quitter, Steve!! Success at last, eh?
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Steve worth the wait I think.
Angie :)
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Well done Steve.
Love the B. haemanthoides
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Babiana odorata
cheers
fermi
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Cyrtanthus species flowering in the centra belt and winter growing gladiolus and lachenalia all waking up too. The magpies took the cyrtanthus label so I'm not sure which one.
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This nerine sarensis is SO pink. This has been my best year ever for nerine sarensis. Im hoping it wasn't the long hot period as they were in doors and dormant. Not replicable. A friend watered them early summer by accident and then I gave them a spray of water mid month every
Month. I'd be so happy if they flowered like this every year- even if they're so early!
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More "spring flowers" now open:
1) Romulea sabulosa
2) Moraea macronyx
3) Romulea hirta
4) Babiana 'Redesdale Harlequin' [B. odorata x B. pygmaea]
5) Bulbinella floribunda
cheers
fermi
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Strumaria karooica blooming now in a pot.
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A couple more of the winter/spring flowering South Africans in our garden:
1 & 2) Moreaea tripetala
3) Bulbinella eburnifolia
cheers
fermi
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Two pots of Hesperantha latifolia.
The second pic shows a taller plant at the back which could be a hybrid or an interloper
cheers
fermi
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Eucomis vandermerwei 'Leopard', not a plant I'm particularly fond of. Even though it's a bit past it's best the flowers are never spectacular by any means.
[attachimg=1]
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Hi David,
I'd only heard of the named selection 'Octopus' before so it was interesting to see your 'Leopard'.
We've got seedling grown plants from 'Octopus' which show variation in the spotting. I think 'Leopard' is a better name ;D
Here, the first flowers have finally opened on Lapeirousia oreogena
cheers
fermi
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We also got variation when growing Eucomis vanderwerwei from seed. The outstanding clone was the one shown below with intense purple spotting so that almost the whole leaf is purple. The colour is most intense when given maximum sunlight. I have named this clone 'Purple Pixie'
Paul
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Of 30 odd Amaryllis belladonna bulbs the first bloomed about 3 years ago. Now the very same bulb has flowered again, no others. Have no idea what is required for consistent flowering. A good bake? If so they got it this year.
Photos by my talented neighbour Mike.
Amaryllis belladonna 'Johannesburg'
john
24c, 65% humidity
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Colchicaceae Ornithoglossum undulatum in the Cederberg mountains, Western Cape, July.
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Colchicaceae Ornithoglossum undulatum in the Cederberg mountains, Western Cape, July.
Wow! Something else I've never seen before!
Have you written up your trip for anyone yet?
cheers
fermi
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Colchicaceae Ornithoglossum undulatum in the Cederberg mountains, Western Cape, July.
Great plant Ashley! Does anyone grow this? - I have had seed a couple of times but none has ever germinated.
Paul
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Wow! Something else I've never seen before!
Have you written up your trip for anyone yet?
cheers
fermi
Like the IRG, for instance????? Pretty please!!
Quite extraordinary plants for some (most?) of us!
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I was trying to be subtle, Maggi
;D
cheers
fermi
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Hard to remain subtle as an editor, fermi! I admire your restraint!! :-*
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Thanks Fermi, Maggi and Paul; very kind.
We wandered quite widely in Western Cape and some adjoining areas of Northern & Eastern Cape provinces, but although Helen has the patience of a saint I didn't want to push my luck by spending too many rapt hours among the vegetation ;)
In retrospect my photos are disjointed and (mostly) mediocre so hardly do the plants justice or merit a proper write-up. Evidently I was too excited to concentrate, like a kid in a sweet shop. We'll have to go again ;D
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Gladiolus watermeyeri from NZAGS Seedex 2011
cheers
fermi
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Spectacular 8)
It makes you wonder what evolutionary pressures drove such extravagant colour and form.
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Ornithogalum ceresianum
what's the size of this bulb? very big or a tiny one?
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and the scent! I would smell it as I was walking, and then would look for the flower.
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and the scent! I would smell it as I was walking, and then would look for the flower.
Hi Diane,
I presume you are referring to Gladiolus watermeyeri - the scent of violets is so strong you would think you had a tray of violets in front of you rather than a single flower of the gladdie!
cheers
fermi
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Hesperantha vaginata grown from seed and showing some variation
cheers
fermi
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Gladiolus gracilis grown from seed from Gordon Summerfield in 2010; first flowered in 2015
cheers
fermi
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Boophone sp. Port Elizabeth
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1922/43028031110_67e0145b5b_o_d.jpg)
Haemanthus sp. Giant form. This is possibly just a form of sanguineus or coccineus but it produces a massive pair of oval rubbery leaves.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1883/43028031200_3341ce5359_o_d.jpg)
Empodium plicatum
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1950/44789481782_d31a914e08_o_d.jpg)
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This year Moraea marlothii has 3 flower stems!
cheers
fermi
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Gotta love freckles!
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10 years ago I deliberately crossed Brunsvigia bosmaniae with Brunsvigia orientalis. The long 10 year wait for first flowers was worth it! Below I show the flower head, an individual flower, and the hybrid with both its parents. In this instance, B. bosmaniae was the seed parent. I also did the reverse cross (B. orientalis as seed parent) but this has not flowered yet.
A small number of you have had bulbs of this cross from me - if any of yours have flowered I would be very interested to see the results, to see if there is much variation.
Paul
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Very pretty result from your long wait, Paul!
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A rogue ixia hybrid that thinks it's in the Southern Hemisphere
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First lachenaliA of the year!lachenalia corymbosa
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The second Lachenalia and one of my favourites - the colour is indescribable. This is early but last year this one flowered on September 4th!
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Cracking pictures Paul. I don't suppose it's going to over-much worry the Horticultural world but I'm never going to change my labels on any of my Polyxena! :D
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Beautiful, Paul! Is the second one Lachenalia viridiflora, or some other green-flowered one?
I’d love to hear where and how you (and anyone else willing to share) grow yours. I’ve finally got a few bulbs to try (aloides var. vanzyliae, namaquensis, pustulata, & viridiflora, my favorite.) Since I don’t know anyone who grows these here, I’m reading up and sorting out whether to try them in a cold greenhouse with extra protection, or in my house. (It can get down to -12 degrees C here, but not for more than a day or two; -1 to -5 C is more typical for our cold days.)
It’s so nice to have you all to ask when I’m trying something new. I’m pretty good at research, but there’s a big difference between plants surviving and thriving.
Kelly
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Kelly, you should have a look at the Pacific Bulb Society Site. For Lachanalia see https://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Lachenalia, (https://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Lachenalia,) a glean through that may produce names that might be useful for you to contact in your part of the World.
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Kelly
The temperatures in winter don't sound too disimilar to those here in the central belt of Scotland but you will have a lot more winter light than we get in Scotland.
For me with summer temperatures dropping at night under 10 degrees c from the end of July onwards - it's easy to start them all in the garden as they wake up so I can make the most of the fresh air and sunlight but then as the first frosts approach I have to move them indoors. The natural light isn't strong enough so I've invested in LED light units which are great. outside the cold and dark just kills them.
Over the years ive played with substrate and now I sit the bulbs in non clumping cat litter on top of free draining sandy gravel plus john innes number. 3
I water once a week only but keep seeedlings much damper and at edge of LED light pool
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Thanks for the suggestion, David! I love their reference pages, and should explore further.
Thanks, Paul — that gives me a much better idea of what to try first. I’m guessing you keep them fairly cool indoors, rather like a florist cyclamen? Fingers crossed I get anywhere near your beautiful results!
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Bought this Albuca spiralis last year. I just liked the spiral leaves not knowing if it would flower I asked the garden centre and they said no it’s the foliage you buy it for. Well they were wrong, very pretty flower I think.
Angie :)
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
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Sorry Maggi , it’s been ages since I posted a picture and thought I had it the right way up ::) :-*
Angie :)
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More South African spring bulbs in flower here:
Moraea setifolia
Geissorhiza monanthos
Moraea bipartita
Babiana vanzyliae
Tritonia securigera
cheers
fermi
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Babiana tubulosa first flowering today.
From SRGC Seedex 2015 sown 21-05-2016; 1st seedlings 23-07-2016
cheers
fermi
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Some Polyxena, yes I know they're supposed to be Lachenalia now but not on my labels they aren't!
Polyxena longituba, grown from seed from SRGC 07/2424 sown December 2008. Taking into account that I must have given away a dozen potfulls over the years a really good 'doer'.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
P. pygmaea a small corm from this years SABG Exchange.
[attachimg=3]
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Also from this years SABG Exchange, Polyxena corymbosa
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
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David:
Great shot and color is wonderful.
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Thanks Arnold
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Strumaria truncata -two colors
Strumaria salteri
Nerine bowdenii ‘Koen’s Hardy’
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Nicely grown plants Rimmer.
here's an always early flowering Veltheimia capensis.
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A Massonia roggeveldensis seedling :)
I got some seeds of "Massonia sp. Roggeveld" in 2014 and the seedlings started to bloom last season. Then, I transplanted them individually this summer and am now looking forward to their flowers.
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Hi Tatsuo
How is Massonia roggeveldensis different from M. longipes?
Below seedlings of Massonia longipes collected by McMaster in Arniston. Seed started in Jan 2016.
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Bert Zaalberg's Massonia.com (http://massonia.com/species) is a useful resource for species descriptions.
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Lachenalia bulbiflora/bifolia
Very lovely!
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Veltheimia capensis First time in bloom.
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Lapeirousia divaricata from NARGS Seedex 2016; sown 28-04-17
cheers
fermi
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Lachenalia sp. (syn. Polyxena sp.)
Came from Silverhill Seeds labeled as “#4748 Polyxena sp.” in 2011. Plants look already matured size.
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They look an awful lot like Polyxena longituba? See mine in reply 196.
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They look an awful lot like Polyxena longituba? See mine in reply 196.
Thank you for your polite suggestion, David...or my awful growing skill ::) ;D
In anyway this plant has broad leaves as P. ensifolia, unlike your P. longituba with liner leaves.
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Oxalis luteola ‘Splash’ MV7689 has started to open today.
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Oxalis luteola MV5567. Closing up for the day
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Polyxena pygmaea
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Polyxena ensifolia
MX15 (First photo)
SRGC seed ex 2013/14 -3370 (second photo)
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Polyexena maughanii a little past prime. Looks much like Tatsou’s sp.
MX16 (first photo)
And second photo from Middlepos
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Polyxena odorata
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Daubenya comata from Penroc seed. In bud looks like a little eucomis.
Second picture from 15 Nov
3rd and later photos from 22 Nov
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Strumaria salteri - still going strong.
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Strumaria truncata has an interisting cataphyll. In most plants i have seen it is a deep almost black maroon. But in a plant from Garies it is a lighter maroon.
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Lots happening with your plants, Rimmer! 8)
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Nice stuff there Rimmer
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Yes, a nice collection, Rimmer :o :D
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Lachenalia punctata, a bronze foliage type.
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The generic name Massonia honours one of Caledonia’s hardy sons.
Massonia hirsuta
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4805/44156963860_0ba4d07a58_o_d.jpg)
Massonia pygmaea
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4867/32102388018_dc885c0a50_o_d.jpg)
Massonia tenella
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4837/32102388178_7be491b42d_o_d.jpg)
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Daubenya alba from AGS 2013 seed ex. seed started fall 2014
Wife says they have a nice smell, like grape hyacinths.
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Daubenya stylosa
Is this virused or mechanical damage?
Second photo from 22 Nov (2 days later)
Third photo 1 Dec
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Massonia inaequalis -Elandsbaai. McMaster seed started fall 2014. Seed was collected in Sept 2013 as “M pygmaea as that's what the specimens in the Kirstenbosch herbarium were labeled.” A participant on the trip “immediately though it must be different, just looking at the differences in habitat (coast vs. mountains). He “did compare the seeds, and the Elandsbaai are about twice the size of the [Massonia pygmaea] from Kamieskroon area.”
A paper on M inaequalis http://www.massonia.com/documents/inaequalis.pdf (http://www.massonia.com/documents/inaequalis.pdf)
Key is Stamen filements of unequal length.
it is the first Massonia in my collection to begin to bloom.
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Lachenalia pusilla
Tiny plant
Last 2 photo from 1Dec
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Lachenalia pusilla
Tiny plant
Wow, that is a little one
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Lachenalia calcicola. Another tiny one. Flowers never seem to rise up high enough for a good view.
Formerly Polyxena calcicola.
Grows on limestone.
Second image self seeding of last years seed crop.
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Strumaria truncata from Garies
With larger, 1” long tepals
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Bulblovers - especially those with an interest in South African plants - will be sad to learn of the death of Cameron McMaster. We are grateful to Bert Zaalberg for this news. Many members will have had seed from Cameron and Rhoda McMaster over the years, I am sure. (http://www.africanbulbs.com (http://www.africanbulbs.com))
from Bert Zaalberg
"I just learnt that Cameron Mcmaster has passed away a couple of days ago November 24th.
I feel honored I had the opportunity to travel with Cameron during 2 weeks through the Eastern Cape in jan/feb 2017. His deep knowledge about plants and nature in general was impressive. And a very kind and generous person. I am sure he will be missed by many many people."
Photos by Bert Zallberg, taken from Facebook....
[attachimg=1]
Cameron McMaster photographing Albuca crispa at Nieu-Bethesda
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Cameron McMaster with Cyrtanthus macmasteri
two more plants bearing his name...
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Nerine macmasteri
[attachimg=4]
Tulbaghia violacea ssp. macmasteri
Our condolences go to Rhoda McMaster and all family and friends.
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A perfect Gentleman. RIP.
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Massonia
setulosa sp. ex Gouritz River Bridge, west of Vlees Bay. Seed started fall 2015 as Massonia Sp.
not M setulosa due to no bristle hairs on leaves per Massonia.com
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Massonia inaequalis Elandsbaai. Seed collected by Cameron McMaster 2013
Close up view showing stigmas of unequal length.
http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=15942.msg398246#msg398246 (http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=15942.msg398246#msg398246)
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Massonia longipes, seed from from PBS BX337 as M pustilata from Arnold.
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My South Africans seem quite advanced this year. First one is flowering already: Lachenalia viridiflora. I am looking forward to this one clumping up over the years.
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Lachenalia viridiflora Seems on schedule here.
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Rimmer:
The L. viridiflora is on time for you but late for me
Here's Lachenalia corymbosa. Nicely scented
Another that was Polyxena
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Freesia elimensis
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This week, when its been so miserable outside, my winter garden has been wonderful. These are all moraea. It's great to see variations on a theme. Some of these came from Cameron Mcmaster. A wonderful legacy to make so many people happy
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Lachenalia viridiflora
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Tatsuo
That overall image is a great photo of a wonderfully grown potful.
we are all envious of your growing skills.
How mich sun does it get and how cold is it grown?
Rimmer
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Massonia jasminiflora
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Tatsuo
That overall age is a great photo of a wonderfully grown potful.
we are all envious of your growing skills.
How mich sun does it get and how cold is it grown?
Rimmer
You overestimate me too much, Rimmer. But thank you in anyway.
I grow it on sunny outside bench without any protection and special treatments.
Probably the climate here fits to L. viridiflora.
Average Weather in Shizuoka Japan
https://weatherspark.com/y/143722/Average-Weather-in-Shizuoka-Japan-Year-Round (https://weatherspark.com/y/143722/Average-Weather-in-Shizuoka-Japan-Year-Round)
Last winter was terribly cold and the daily lowest temperature dropped down to -5˚C several times, but this L. viridiflora didn't get damage.
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Rimmer:
I've had the same reaction to Tatsuo's growing prowess.
I think the attached info will explain at least part of it.
He gets more sunlight during the growth cycle of SA bulbs then we do.
Not because of day length but less cloud cover.
I've attached a screen grab of hours of sunlight for Shizuoka and a link showing a comparison for chance of clearer skies, growing conditions
Here's the link for the comparison of the two locations.
https://weatherspark.com/compare/y/143722~23912/Comparison-of-the-Average-Weather-in-Shizuoka-and-New-York-City
I'm 10 miles from mid-town Manhattan.
Arnold
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Hi Tatsuo
your "terrible cold" of -5ºC (23ºF) is rather mild compared to continental central part of USA!
but i see in your linked chart that you have a lot of clear winter days, where we have predominately overcast days in winter.
https://weatherspark.com/compare/y/143722~23912~14698/Comparison-of-the-Average-Weather-in-Shizuoka-New-York-City-and-Bowling-Green
this chart does not reflect that we get a few days/ nights at or below zero ºF (-18ºC) in January- feb. and we are rated average zone 6B (-10ºF/ -23ºC).
perhaps we need to keep our plant outside longer for more sun radiation and wind to keep them short and stout. the glass cover and inside growing makes for leggy weak plants even with bright light and fans.
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Daubenya zeyheri is beginning to bloom
Last 3 snaps outside in sun
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Daubenya zeyheri is beginning to bloom
And don't they look like seasonal decorations? Could be on a Christmas tree!
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A pot of 4 year old seedlings of Daubenya zeyheri from McMaster seeds
Some have red and some have orange filaments
And a yellow Cyrtanthus mackenii
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Lovely to see the Lachenalia all smiling
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Androcymbium dregei
Flowers the size of a dubbeltje
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Androcymbium dregei
Flowers the size of a dubbeltje
....... 15mm !
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Massonia longipes as ID'ed by Rimmer.
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These Massonia jasminiflora
look very similar to this clone of Massonia hirsuta. The latter has larger flowers with greater reflexed petals. Other in the M hirsuta seed lot are more hairy but not flowering yet.
Any opinions on what they are.
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Sandersonia aurantiaca, "Golden Lily of the Valley" or "Christmas Bells" flowering now
cheers
fermi
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Babianas All
Coming out at once
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Moraea Aristata- and a stray moraea cilata I think!
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Lovely flowers! What conditions are they growing in? And if you grew them from seed, how long before they flowered?
Diane (still waiting)
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Diane
They are growing in doors under LED lights from November onwards but they start outdoors when ever they start waking up-some as early as July! I've a real mix from bought bulbs and seeds.
I'll post some pics of my not very pretty set up. It's two levels, with shorter plants and growing seedlings underneath. Bigger plants on top ( ferraría, gladiolus and big moraeas).
I love the room and my weeding with tweezers! But I know it's a bit mad. But it makes me very happy!
All the best
Paul
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A good place to be in the winter.
Yours stand up better than mine do, but mine are just in a cold greenhouse with no extra lighting. Maybe that's why yours are doing better than mine.
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I had fun yesterday with my books and learned that Lachinalia Gillettii is now a kind of Pallida. The blues are amazing. The last photo is another pallida ( that used to be pustulata).
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[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
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Hi Bro and Sis,
Happy new year 2019 to all of you.
Can anyone show me how Lachenalia trichophylla seeds and seedlings look like?
Thanks alot.